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InsaneJim69

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About InsaneJim69

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    Aberdeen, UK

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  1. I went with PS9 for my BTCC Laguna. Never backed it, just a good few costs. James.
  2. Makes me feel old those prices. I remember my TA05R I bought at full retail price of £159.99 when it was first released, was very competitive at my local track and handled so neutral. 😳🙄. I remember before my TA05R my older Yokomo MR4SD SSG Special I bought for £80 locally and it was like brand new with enough spares to build almost another 2 cars. If I was going down the racing route again I would personally consider a looked after 2nd hand car/package. And spend the rest on beer 🍻 😂😂👍 James.
  3. I see the Tamiya dairy farm is still happily operating 🙄🤦‍♂️. James.
  4. Yes pretty much all Tamiyas 257mm wheelbase bodies fit any of their 1/10 touring car size chassis. With the exception of some of the older low nose bodies for the IFS suspension cars. 👍 James.
  5. Me too. But least it doesn't look as bad as I thought it would. 👍 James.
  6. First official box art pics have surfaced. Actually looks really good. Maybe be even better in a different official colour, Yellow or Red maybe ? Pleasantly surprised, wheels looks great too very much like the real cars wheels. No roof scoop, but it does have the WRC mirrors 🤔. Although that's easy changed. James.
  7. The box art is white. The orange one is the 1/24 static kit. 👍 Looks a stunning bodyset though. Might actually get myself one of these and paint it a dark Pearlescent Purple 👍😍 James.
  8. Heck yeah a F1 GTR Long tail in Fina livery would have been super cool imo. James.
  9. It also comes in clear body set. But the pre painted and finished bodies look amazing. James
  10. I think your best bet is the Killer bodies R34 GT-R. They do a pre painted road version and it's amazingly detailed for the price point and looks great imo, as long as you pick the right wheels to go with it. 👍 James.
  11. If your able to hold both outdrives with either screwdrivers or small Allen keys and still move the gear then it's far too loose. You should keep tightening a bit at a time until you can no longer move the gear. Even if the gear moves slightly with pressure, I would give another 1/4 turn to tighten. At that point you would take that as your base setting for the diff. Then its upto yourself if you want to loosen or tighten it further. For general use I would just go with having it at the base setting. Hope that makes sense.👍 James.
  12. The TC01 is 257mm 👍 it's a pity Tamiya don't use this chassis much apart from the horrid formula e car. 🤦‍♂️😕 James
  13. As above, take the diff out and make sure it's tightened enough. But DO NOT over tighten. Tighten a little at a time and each time hold both of the outdrives and try to turn the gear in-between them. If it's too loose the gear will turn, just tighten until the gear isn't able to turn any more then you can make small adjustments from there as to how tight or loose you want it to be. 👍 Once you get the hang of ball diffs it's easy after that. If you over tighten it too much it can end up undoing itself under power and basically make the diff useless as the thrust bearing is usually crushed. James.
  14. No long weekend for me I am afraid. It's not a holiday for me. We get back 2 floating days at work to take when we like. 👍 So it's Nightshift as usual for myself, but I do have my usual Saturday and Sunday off James.
  15. Indeed. Hoping it comes with semi slicks like the TA03 version, makes it look very mean and aggressive in tarmac spec. 👍 James.
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