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Fixit

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Posts posted by Fixit

  1. Anyone from Kent interested in attending the OhSoRetro car show in September?

    The organiser has asked if any RC clubs would like to attend, with enough interest we would be able to organise a club stand and running area.

    It's a retro and modified classic car show which always has a very good turn out, would be a good event for a vintage and re-re gathering.

  2. Thanks for the comments, it's been more of an evolution than a build.

    And now... it's a runner! :D

    Been out for a test run and I'm very pleased with the result, all the mods have been worth while. Wasn't expecting too much from the re-wound stock motor but, oh my word! it's spot on. All in it's a nicely balanced SRB, perfect power to weight and handles like a dream.

  3. Welcome back to world's slowest build thread! It's been a year plus since my last update, seems that every time I say “found time for RC again” something else comes along to slow me down. But hey... better to finish a thread slowly than not finish it at all?

    Anyway, whining over here's some progress...

    Was going to drill some holes in the metal work and knock some weight of it but after working out how much I'd save it hardly seemed worth it, so moving on. Machined up the holes in the front arms to take the re-re knuckle bearings, as this is a runner I wanted to be able to source parts when needed so making re-re parts fit the vintage stuff is a must.

    SUD_001_zpsaa836b1a.jpg

    Next a steering servo mod, cut a hole through the front mech box and mounted the servo in there. The SRB now has a modern servo saver and direct to servo steering, this should reduce the 'slop' and make the steering more responsive.

    SUD_002_zps98a0ff69.jpg

    SUD_003_zps0909c604.jpg

    As its running on coil over's and modified arms I wanted to stiffen the chassis to get the suspension working as it should. I used the four outer holes through the chassis and the original rear mech box mount point to pin the whole lot together, made some spacers for the job which also give me a little more clearance for the servo saver.

    SUD_005_zps7a186cd1.jpg

    SUD_004_zps11415b3f.jpg

    At last, a rolling chassis.

    SUD_006_zpsb998fe42.jpg

    Next, get the sparks in and get it running....

    • Like 3
  4. Nice job saving that body from the bin.

    Get yourself some 'modelstrip' its great for removing paint, does what it says on the tin! http://www.wonderlan...rip-modelstrip/

    I use auto paint from Halfrauds, so many colours you can match most other paints and its good stuff for RC bodies. Like every one else has said, practice makes perfect (or nearly perfect), take your time and don't try to get it all down in one coat, very light coats until your happy with it.

  5. Thought about the TA02, TT01, M-Chassis... wanted to go live axle at the rear so the choice of chassis off the shelf was limited. Looked at using some parts from other chassis too, lower arms etc. but width is a problem.

    The body is around 170mm rear and 160mm front, inside the wheel arches. Need to keep the axle width narrow so I can run it low, I'm happy with the custom front arms and look forward to building the chassis.

    Oh and that decal is just one of the Blackfoot III decals, all decals will be going as the body will be detailed and painted, got a nice idea for hidden body mounts too.

  6. Cheers for the comments...

    @mr crispy

    Yeah, the CC01was one idea, would still need to run the truck axle as the CC01 axle is too wide. Not sure about the front end width either, the overall front end width needs to be no more than 155mm including the wheels, looking to get that narrow drag racer look then I can run it low like the mock up.

    Also, the chassis will have a module front end, then I can adjust the length and use the same design on other street projects.

  7. This is a project that’s been distracting me from other things for a while now, thought it was about time I built it and got the idea into practice.

    Picked up the Blackfoot III body and some HPI vintage wheels from Ebay a while back, here’s a couple of shots of the mock up....

    Mock_001_zps6ad7c13c.jpg

    Mock_002_zps8b15cfa1.jpg

    Rather than just drop this over an M chassis or something I’m going to build the chassis from scratch, It will run a live axle at the rear and double wishbone front end. I fitted the 6mm offset rear wheels to the rear axle on my Tamiya big rig and it turns out that the overall width is spot on for the body and the diff case has 12mm of ground clearance, just waiting for some parts so I can build up an axle using spares (rather than pinch it of my Aeromax... tempting though).

    Made a double wishbone set up from various spares for the front, pleased with how they turned out....

    Arms_001_zps38b627ed.jpg

    Arms_002_zps6de81ce7.jpg

    Found a suitable gearbox among some boat spares, shortened the shaft and added some ball bearings and I’ve got a nice gearbox. The final gear ratio from motor to wheels works out about 10:1, may need to play with this once its running....

    Gearbox_001_zps9fa11d0f.jpg

    Thought about building a scale truck chassis but in the end decided to go with something new, the chassis will be a upper/lower plate design similar to the typical touring car chassis with two differences, the rear of the lower plate will sweep up and meet the upper plate to accommodate the live axle and front end will be adjustable in length. Getting some drawings together at the moment, will post them up when I’m done.

    • Like 1
  8. Decided to strip the chassis and get some holes in all that aluminium to reduce the weight, what with all the metal upgrade parts its starting to get a little heavy.

    Couldn't resist finishing the rear shock mounts first....

    Mount_002_zps1af4218d.jpg

    Mount_001_zps0770d0bb.jpg

    Made these using polymorph, great stuff for making small parts like these. They where easy to make, dissolve the polymorph granules in hot water and they turn to a putty type material which was then pressed into a mould made from plastic card. It cools quickly and has very similar properties to nylon when set.

    • Like 1
  9. Its been a while but... I have the time for RC again!

    Started the thread for this build an age ago, life has been getting in the way for the last 18 months and as a result I've not had the time for RC. Any way...(sob story over) at long last I've got time on my hands so I can crack on with some of my projects... like this one!

    Since the last post I've re-wound the stock motor and made some very nice rear shock top mounts using polymorph (shiny pics to follow soon), watch this space for updates. They may be a little slow as I've been distracted by a blackfoot body street truck project, I should have enough done to get a build thread up by the weekend.

    Its good to be back!

  10. Didn't get time to do much assembly yesterday, got the rear arms, axles and front shocks fitted.......... but I did make a start on a rear shock mount mod.

    Rear-Mount-001.jpg

    Two holes drilled and tapped on the side for bolts through the pipe clamp, tapped through for the shock bolt. Need to make a decent spacer for it.

    Mounted-Shock-001.jpg

    The front end is starting to look good.

    Need to get the rear mount finished and re-wind the motor to finish the rear end, waiting on some new bearing plates before I can finish the front end........ getting there.

  11. Hope to get some assembly done today so should have some more results to post tomorrow.

    @Cooltoys

    Yep, pretty sure that's a Mk1 gearbox and its got original internals too (with ball bearings fitted). I've got parts from Mk1 and Mk2 SRB's, trying to use as many vintage parts as possible.

    @Leethal Driver

    Getting a tidy finish to stuff like aluminium plate really ain't that hard, everything is hand made using hand tools and home made tools......... no fancy CNC equipment here, keeping it 'old skool' :D . I use a simple jig to cut, file and fold the aluminium plate which is nothing more than two lengths of steel flat bar and a vice, the rest is down to a good saw and files and practice. When I do the front bumper I will get some more detailed pics of the process to show you how its done.

    Cheers....

  12. Cheers for the comments...

    @Skottoman

    Yeah, been into the hobby for 27 years and scratch building for 20 of those, as for the tidy post's..... I suffer from a little OCD and like to keep things tidy. :D

    Made a bit more progress, built a rear guard today, used 6mm steel tube for the hoop and 2mm aluminium plate for the rest.

    Rear-G_001.jpg

    Rear-G_002.jpg

    Rear-G_003.jpg

    Rear-G_004.jpg

    Drilled and tapped the hoop to fix the plate.

    Rear-G_005.jpg

    Short piece of 6mm tube drilled and tapped to fix the centre.

    Rear-G_006.jpg

    Now when it gets damaged I can replace it without replacing the hoop.

    The front bumper will be made in the same way, need to get some assembly done now so I can cut and mount the body before I decide how its going to look.

  13. How about strip the chrome with some model strip and then paint using Humbrol Metalcote Aerosol, the polished steel finish gives a very nice scale finish, not chrome but then I have never been a fan of chromed plastic parts, though Tamiya seem to do a better job with it than most.

    Metalcote is a great product, comes in tinlets and aerosol, the polished aluminium is not so good but the polished steel is great. Spray on, allow to dry and then buff with a soft cloth..... job done. Grab a tin and try it on something first.

  14. Thanks for the comments, all opinions welcome..... good or bad.

    If anyone is interested in how any of these mods are done then I will be happy to put together some tutorials........... just don't want to try and teach anyone to “suck eggs” if you know what I mean.

    Got a few more parts to make and mod and then I should be able to get on with the assembly. I got two clean stock vintage motors out of that box of bits, plan on re-winding one to 19 turns and maybe install ball race bearings in there. Ordered the Kamtec baja body, have used Kamtec bodies before and really like there stuff, just a shame that they don't have the detail that Tamiya's injection moulded stuff has so I plan on 'adding' some detail to the baja body.

    As for those shocks.... I'm well chuffed at how they turned out, was going to make some collars with grub screw to give me some spring adjustment, the black shrink stoppers where intended to be temporary but they feel real nice so I'm going to run it as is and see how it goes first.

    Hopefully have some more done by the weekend so should have some more to post then.

    Cheers....

  15. New to the forum so first off........ Hello All.

    Just inherited a box of parts which has been kicking around in my family for years, on closer inspection it turns out that there is the best part of two SRB's in there. Been watching some threads on here for a while now so I figure that an SRB build is a good time to sign up and share.

    Decided to go for a modified runner build rather than a resto project, missing a few parts so I'm using some from the re-re for those but mostly vintage stuff which has polished up nicely, here's the start of my build.

    5mm-Front.jpg

    I tapped a 5mm thread into the arms and drilled out the holes in the axle supports to 5mm, made new pins using a length of M5 stud with a short piece of 6mm nylon tube wound onto them to act as a bearing in the tube, the aluminium tubes have been replaced with stainless steel. The arms are thread locked onto the pins and now have a solid smooth movement.

    5mm-Rear.jpg

    Tapped an M5 thread through the rear of the arms and drilled out the gear casing to suit, uses a stainless fixing.

    SolidPin-Rear.jpg

    Solid stainless pins for the other end.

    Shocks-001.jpg

    Coil over conversion uses 9mm brass pipe stiffeners as spring seats and springs from a TLT. The black stopper is a length of heat shrink that has an adhesive inside.

    Shocks-002.jpg

    Brass seat cut to length and drilled for the grub screw and then soldered to the shock end.

    Shocks-003.jpg

    Pleased with these.

    Chassis-Plate.jpg

    Made a full length chassis stiffener.

    More to follow soon.........

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