thebigwig

Thanks!

Hi, I am having problems with this chassis. I have a Durga and was planning to replace the stock chassis with this new carbon chassis. But here's my problem => I have stripped 10 screws when putting the front and rear differential covers. two of the screws broke. I noticed that the screws were very hot while I was tighten by hand. So am I supposed to use a different type of screws? I have already messed up one carbon chassis and don't want to mess up again with the second carbon chassis. Please advise. Thanks

Awesome! Thanks for the explanation. It helped a lot! cheers

Looking to get a slipper clutch set for my db01. There are 2 options here and just wanted to know what's the difference (beside the price) and is one better than the other. First Option => RC DB01 Double Slipper - Clutch Set (#54061) Second Option => RC Slipper Clutch Set (#54018) I am using DB01 Aluminum One-Piece 18T Pulley and it says that it should be used with #54018. Wonder if this will work with #54061? cheers

@ speedy_w_beans => Thanks for pointing out the twisted arrow! I was able to reverse the bolt without having to disassemble the entire gear box! Crazy.. haha. I need to watch out for these twisted arrows... They are twisted alright! cheers

You're right, I do see the twisted arrow now. Thanks. Question now is can I remove the bolt and flip to shorter diff joint without disassemble the entire rear and front gear box?

Hi, I run into a problem with the durga differential assembly. According to the manual, the long bolt goes through from the longer diff joint and the spring goes into the shorter diff joint and then you tighten it. I did all that but now when I assemble the rear drive shaft, it barely goes into the short diff joint because the spring, K4 and bolt is not all the way in. so should I flip it around and put the bolt through the shorter diff joint since the longer diff joint has plenty of room? Is the the instruction in the manual wrong? Please advise. Thanks

Wow, that's expensive!

OK, I see it now. It's a replica made by *****. But it doesn't come with under tray. Can I use the Egress under tray? I also see original body set. I bet the final bid price will be outrageous. I like avante 2001 but not that much if price is too high Thanks

There's nothing there when I clicked on the linked?? Thanks

Awesome! Now all I have to do is find the re-release Avante 2001 body. Do you thin tamiya usa has this body or it is probably discontinued? Thanks again!

Thanks!

Hi all, I have a question regarding to the Avante 2001. It looks like the Avante 2001 shares the exact same chassis as the Egress 2013? Is this correct? Will the Avante 2001 body fit on Egress 2013 chassis? Does the Avante 2001 uses the same under tray as the other Avante 1988 & 2011? I like the look of Avante 2001 and I just build Egress 2013 so I wonder if I can interchange the body? Thanks

Awesome thanks mate! cheers

Hi, I just purchased a brand new clear Baldre body set from ebay for my Durga chassis. I don't know the paint colors that I need to purchase to paint the body per manual. I have searched everywhere on the interent for the Baldre manual but with no luck. Would someone please point me in the right direct for the manual? Or if you can post the portion of the manual that shows the tamiya paint color code? Many Thanks

@one_hit -> Awesome! Thank you for your excellent detailed explanation!!

@Tamiyabigstuff So am I good to go according to my posted video? btw, I have already broken the PB2 diff screw for barely over tighten it. I am not sure what happened but the PB2 snapped at the threaded tip. So I don't want to do it again

So I am not able to move the plastic diff gear if I hold the 2 outdrives. But if I hold the plastic diff gear and grab on end of the outdrive I can turn the outdrives. Is this normal? I just want to make sure that the diff is assembled correctly before I run it. I have made a video showing this, here's the link: http://www.videosprout.com/video/embed.jsp?id=090ee00c-d232-4eaf-aa6d-5e96bbe7d0fa So please let me know if this is good to go. Thanks

I got the screw tighten but the spur gear moves with friction so I am assuming it's ok.. Confusing part is should the spur gear move or should not....?? The manual image shows the spur gear with an "X" and arrow pointing.... so it should not be moving? So confusing here...

Hi, #1 (attached image #8 top instruction) The part that I am confused about the above instruction => Fully tighten PB2 (diff screw), then loosen by full turn (standard position) - I am totally confused here. if I tight and then loosen full turn then the spur gear will move freely.....???? #2 (attached image #8 bottom instruction) It says that you should hold diff joints and tighten PB2 (diff screw) until the differential spur gear no longer movers freely. Question: Do this means that the spur gear can move but with force? Or completely tighten and no movement at all for the spur gear? I don't want to over tighten it or not tighten enough. So should the spur gear be able to move with force or complete cannot move? Any recommendations would be greatly appreciative. Thanks

How about this motor? Tekin Redline GEN3 1:10 Brushless Motor 17.5 Turn TT2705 or Tekin RSgen2 Spec ESC 17.5rpm Gen3 Sensor BL Motor Sys Combo Will this motor tear up the drive shaft? What pinion gear should I use? Thanks

Hi, Just purchased the tamiya 2013 Egress and Duratrax IntelliSpeed Auto-Sport Forward/Reverse ESC. The Egress kit does not come with a motor. So what motor should I get that will work with this ESC? Speed is what I am looking for in a motor. Please advise. Thanks

Hi, Looking forward to upgrade my Durga with brushless motor, ESC and Lipo battery. I am looking for speed but not to run the motor too hot either. But fast. I don't know where to start. If anyone can please recommend what brushless motor, ESC and Lipo battery kit that I can just purchase and upgrade. What else do I need to do besides upgrading those 3 components? Again thanks!

Thanks. Somehow I always get pain between the body and the windshield even though I used the sticker that comes with the kit. Should I reinenforce this with masking tape?

Thanks. I usually buy extra clear body because chances are I mess up the first time, either too much paint or something else. I will reach out to sellers on ebay and see if they have them. It's such a gorgeous car and I don't want to mess the pain job on the body!