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GregM

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About GregM

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Berlin

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  1. Two weeks ago I ordered a set of Tamiya Pro screwdrivers 74119 (JIS 2 to 2.6 mm) and 74120 (JIS 3 to 4 mm) from Japan, to complement my Tamiya 74023 toolset. A more affordable alternative would the the plain plastic handle screwdrivers Tamiya 74006 and 74007. They're occasionally shown in the Ampro Engineering Youtube videos. Some years ago, I bought JIS screwdriver bits in various sizes (size #0 to #3) from Vessel tools. They are very handy when using them in a powered screwdriver and for repairing Japanese electronics. What I do not recommend is using JIS drivers on regular Phillips screws. You'll notice that they do not fit the heads as good as a Phillips driver.
  2. Here we go with another one! Yuyuko Saigyouji, known from the Touhou videogame series, is a soft vinyl kit from a capsule. Thus, filling and sanding was somewhat more challenging than with a regular plastic or resin model kit. As with the penguin kit, I made the baseplate from plywood. The lantern was scratchbuild from styrene sheet and clear plastic, the latter one backed with translucent paper to create a matt effect. Inside is a yellow LED light. The post is made from brass tubing. The base contains a CR2032 battery, and I mounted an on/off switch on the rear. Yuyuko's ghostly eyes are supposed to look like that according to the supplied instruction sheet. Brush painted, as usual.
  3. Double post alert, lol. I call him Frank N. Peng. Please see the previous posts for further descriptions.
  4. Teaser time! New pics are coming soon.
  5. I found the first gen big wheels ORV chassis to be rather unpleasantful to work on. In my case, it is a vintage Monster Beetle that had to undergo a thorough repair job. With the chassis having its roots in the Brat and Frog, Tamiya designed an abundance of add-on parts to make a Monster Truck out of it. We're talking about the steering assembly including unique uprights/knuckles, the front shock tower, the radio box cover, the metal underguard, unique gears (10 T long brass pinion, counter gear, diff gear), rear shock mounts, motor adaptor mounts, body mounts & struts, etc. There's so many unique hardware and plastic parts to keep track of when rebuilding a vintage ORV. And don't you dare doing the assembly in a wrong way or forgetting some vital part until the end. Dis- and reassembling the ORV spaceframe chassis is only a fun challenge if you aren't under time constraints. This car is why you'll discover great enjoyment when you've eventually got to deal with something as neat as a TL-01, DT-02 or M-03 next time.
  6. Juggular, I'd like to make one last thing clear: Adding weight towards the front of an RWD car isn't what you want. You're following a misconception. You should want the majority of weight on the rear to bring the power of the driven wheels to the ground and to keep your car in a stable line. Also wide tires. You should want as little weight as possible on the steered front, and go with thin tires. This is why the RWD M-chassis faces a major design challenge: Make a car drive well even though the weight distribution might be not enough rearward biased - having the same type of tire width all around, and no foam tires, isn't doing a favor as well. For a given car that you want to adjust to your liking: Don't go for weights. First of all, get to know the chassis by doing driving practice. And then, go for the correct tire (experiment with width, softness and pattern) and spring rates to aid your driving style and type of surface. And then practice some more. On acceleration, you should want a lot of understeer to prevent your car from spinning out on straight sections. So: a lot of traction on the rear, little on the front. In turns, you should want some oversteer just by decelerating your car, which pushes the front down the ground and make your steering more effective. This is how RWD works. Then, you could still try weights, but mostly you'll not need them by then.
  7. Thanks for your evaluations, Juggular. Here are some of my thoughts in reaction to your statements: - Instead of an M-04, you've pictured an M-05? - When thinking about the TRF201/DN-01 "High Traction" chassis, I came to the conclusion that it might be designed to be more flexible than the rigid regular chassis. It might be made for running on a different surface. The friendly guys on http://www.oople.com should be able to help answering this question. - The DT-03 should be more stable and less likely to spinout than a DT-02, thanks to its longer wheelbase - at least in theory. All things I said about the DT-02 should apply to it as well. So we have spent time taking weight distribution into account. If I were you, I wouldn't pull my hair out for "battery placement an inch forward" or "sideways servo versus longitudinal servo placement", or adding weight "here and there". As long as the chassis design itself is sound, I would rather concentrate on getting the right tires for the surface you run your cars on (use foam inserts while you can), and getting the spring rate right. If you're interested in a former R/C race car driver point of view on the M-02 and M-06, please have a look at Jang's short reviews on them: http://ultimatetamiya.com/cars/m02/vw-beetle-classic/ http://ultimatetamiya.com/cars/m06/m06-pro/
  8. Juggular, take a look at a typical 1:10 2WD buggy chassis (e.g. DT-02), which didn't changed that much for thirty years up to the recent development of mid-motor 2WD long wheelbase buggies: What you see is the gearbox and motor sitting behind the rear axle. Massive weight on the wide driving wheels. Doesn't matter too much if the battery is placed longitudinal or across the chassis tub. Front steering with narrow "pizza cutter" wheels. They NEED to be this thin to be of any use. Next to no weight found here. Take a look at a typical 1:12 GT chassis, e.g. Tamiya RM-01, and you'll see striking similarities in electronic component placement, tire width and weight distribution. Even more so foam tires are needed to keep the car in control. Now look back at Tamiya's M-02, M-04 and M-06 and you should be able guess their performance just from thinking about their chassis layouts, electronics placement and tire width/rubber formulation. What is your conclusion from that? Please share it with us. This is a review about a 2WD touring car that was originally a 4WD car stripped from its front drive components. You see that the front suspension was changed from classic double wishbone to a GT-chassis front.
  9. More like a bread knife, when compared to Dave Jones from EEVBlog, who opens mailbag stuff with a true Machete. Even better is AvE on Youtube who uses a battery powered pocket chainsaw to rip and tear packaging material. You've gotta see to believe it.
  10. These wheels and tires are my choice: https://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/237962/Reely-110-Buggy-Wheels-Fighter-5-spoke?ref=list This is how they look mounted on a TL-01B Baja Champ: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/70712-gregms-brushless-baja-champ/&tab=comments#comment-725224
  11. Regarding RWD type bodyshells on FWD type M-chassis: Have some of you actually tried to mate these bodyshells with the RWD M-06 chassis? Hint: I wouldn't be surprised if some of them won't fit due to the rear overhang of the motor and bulkyness of the gearbox. While M-02 and M-04 could have been potential candidates if they weren't discontinued by now, they have their own issues and the M-04 only exists in mid and long wheel base, no short wheel base variant. You won't have this issue on any FWD M-chassis, due to motor and gearbox sitting behind the front wheels instead of hanging over in front of them. So all that is left to clear front and rear for the bodyshell would be the suspension and wheel wells.
  12. Tamiya's ESC do not have a low voltage cutoff suitable for LiPo batteries. Some do have one for LiFe batteries though, depending on what exact Tamiya ESC you're using.
  13. Here we go with fresh photos that I took today. The friction dampers are just fine as they are. I won't swap them for another set of oil dampers. The 16.5 turns brushless motor got slightly warm, but not too hot to touch. The speed controller heat sink was good enough to dissipate the heat without the need for the fan that it was originally supplied with. The 19T pinion seems to be the right choice for this type of motor. The stock antenna mount is pretty pathetic and will get lost at bumps. Now if that's the major concern regarding the Baja Champ, then I say it is a rather negligible concern. Good thing that the LiPo battery is a hardcase one. You won't want a soft LiPo pack due to it being exposed and small stones getting caught up between the battery and the sidewalls of the battery compartment. I had a good half an hour or more runtime on dirt and short, dry grass. When the LiPo low voltage cutoff eventually kicked in, I was already done driving the car and taking photos. The all-terrain wheels and tires worked good on dirt and tarmac. They have good "meat" on them and are soft enough for mixed surfaces. I was able to spin out the Baja Champ's rear end by tapping the brake deliberately, but it won't spin out on accident. Four-wheel-drive with a fast motor and good tires was a nice experience.
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