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About GregM

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  • Birthday January 1

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  1. My re-re Hornet has the Ampro c-brace and a tab-less gearbox, similar to superluminal's photos. I removed the springs from the slots to allow the gearbox pivot freely and let the oil dampers do the actual suspension damping work - just like they do on a DT-01 buggy: For your Hornet, make sure to remove the springs in the slots but keep the metal axle (edit: from reading your posts, I think you already did so), and if needed slightly enlargen the hole in the Ampro brace with a file.
  2. Hi whahoo, I don't know of any 3D printed wishbones. The modified DT-02 wishbones are strong enough to withstand running. The car's handling is pretty fine with the 380 motor.
  3. I tried and made quite an accidental mess of battery fluids leaking into the fireproof container I used for storing them. Blergh, that fishy smell.
  4. I agree with the others. Over the course of nine years, I had four Carson Modelsport NiMH packs (3000 mAh and 4500 mAh) go dead on me. I tried repeated charging/discharging for a few times. I monitored the charging process using one voltmeter and one ammeter, and it became apparent that the packs accepted only a tiny fraction of their original capacity, so after being charged to peak voltage they dropped back below nominal voltage soon after being disconnected from the charger. I brought them to the battery recycling bin of my local supermarket.
  5. BP2411, my Mad Bull has got a Savöx SC-0254MG, as seen in this thread, it will help turning the front wheels in standstill: For fake Futaba servos, this website is very helpful in spotting them: https://www.rcmodelreviews.com/fakefutabaservos.shtml eBay is full of fake S3003 servos. Avoid the fakes. I use genuine Futaba S3003 in the majority of my RC cars, and they do a fine job.
  6. From my guess, the TSU-06 could be older than the TBLE line of speed controllers, so they won't get mentioned in the manual. The TEU-105BK and -302BK were the few speed controllers that included BEC at that time. Even though, I'd rather follow 94eg's advice.
  7. I suggest having a look into this thread: Edit: And this one too:
  8. Nowinaminute, thanks for posting your pics and your opinion about these arms. I found the link to the earlier DT-01 double wishbone front suspension Thread, along with Manny's design. His arms are BEEFY and sturdy enough for regular use, I can vouch for that.
  9. In reference to my previous post further above (still waiting for the post to be approved by moderation), my DT-01 3D printed front suspension arms had been designed by TC member Manny. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/profile/14705-manny/
  10. Hi Syrekz, Your plan sounds intriguing. Things I'd address first: - Double wishbone front suspension: I got 3D printed arms from a TC member back then, they still hold up well. While you're at it, design them with metal pins and bushings in mind for mounting them to the chassis. Instead of the heat shrink mod. - New steering linkage: The stock steering is sloppy and would benefit from a newly designed linkage and ball raced steering boss that clears the stock front shock tower. If you're doing 3D printing anyway, you can go crazy like try and improve the servo location. - Front shock tower and front body mount. For hot motors, use the 17 T pinion. If using Mad Bull wheels, create a motor mount adaptor that allows using a 15 T pinion.
  11. I use two Jamara packs for years now, they still hold their charge well and fit a variety of otherwise problematic Tamiya battery compartments. E.g. DT-01 and TL-01 chassis accept then just fine.
  12. Hi Biz73, I cut the Sand Scorcher front bumper's mounting plate generously so that it mounts straight to the front of the stock DT-02 bumper. Mainly for looks. If you'd prefer the body more protected, I'd let the Scorcher bumper protude farther and higher.
  13. Hi guys, please enjoy these new photos I took today. Holiday Buggy in action: A look at the Holiday Buggy from a variety of angles: One for all those tire thread pattern lovers out there: My playground:
  14. Two weeks ago I ordered a set of Tamiya Pro screwdrivers 74119 (JIS 2 to 2.6 mm) and 74120 (JIS 3 to 4 mm) from Japan, to complement my Tamiya 74023 toolset. A more affordable alternative would the the plain plastic handle screwdrivers Tamiya 74006 and 74007. They're occasionally shown in the Ampro Engineering Youtube videos. Some years ago, I bought JIS screwdriver bits in various sizes (size #0 to #3) from Vessel tools. They are very handy when using them in a powered screwdriver and for repairing Japanese electronics. What I do not recommend is using JIS drivers on regular Phillips screws. You'll notice that they do not fit the heads as good as a Phillips driver.
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