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  1. Great idea SRB Bloke! Would be my dream to race the vintage SRB's. Well up for it! On the beach would be perfect. I would suggest one of my local beaches as the sands nice and compact and they're a fair size but I think its just too far for people to travel. Although JWeston did mention Weston Super-Mare, its a big beach and they have the motorcross race on the beach so probably a little area for us on the beach wouldnt be too much trouble for the council to organise. A few years back (before I joined TC) I know there was a beach bash at Brean beach just round the corner from Weston which looks like it was a success. I hope we can get something organised. Cheers Marcus
  2. Hi Ben, Can we see a picture? The more Blazers the better. Now I dont own a Blazer but I do have 3 hilux's. I don't tend the change gears like you would in your real 1:1 car. I usually, have a shift gate and just select the gear I want and go. To change gear I return to the neutral position but still on that gear. Not centre stick if you do this it often grinds. Once the truck has stopped I select the new gear I want and watch the truck trundle off. Its very hard to change gears on these older gearboxes whilst the truck is running without crunching them. The more modern Hi-lifts do it easily. As for cornering; well brace yourself for a bumpy ride. What surface are you thinking? On grass where mine are usually driven or compact mud in the woods they bounce around a lot if cornering at speed. I think it would be quite diffucult to roll one though as they really dont have that much power but it might be possible in 3rd in the right conditions. Best way is just to get out there and give it a run, you'll soon find out how it likes to drive. Hope this helped, Marcus
  3. Yes 100% agreed tyres seem to matter the most. I was once told by a 1/12 national driver that the right tyres are 90% of setting the car up. Although I like to run my SRB's with the tyres the would've original come with so I was just asking other peoples opinion on what drives the best.
  4. I've had quite a few stupid moments. My latest being parking my high lift on a rock and accidentally clipping the throttle. All I saw was the truck zoom off the edge down a 4th drop upside down. On it's first run as well, nearly had a trouser accident. Ran round to find it upside in a bush perfectly fine. Other stupid moments include snapping my Mad bull in half, driving it up a low fence and snapping the roof and driver clean off and demolishing a brand new impress body into a caravan.
  5. Mad racer: well I use two different types of shocks of my main srb runners (both rere's) Losi mini t shocks work very well on the rear and stop so much squat and add a bit of damping. The others I use are m chassis shocks, these can be better but just don't look as cool. They're shorter and so don't allow so much posi camber gain under no load so the tyres stay flatter when cornering. I leave the torsion bars in but have them quite soft and run the front on full ride height, no droop by just tweaking the front springs and I find that works very well and enables me to enjoy my srb's on all different surfaces.
  6. Mongoose1983 I agree they are true classics even the rere's the design is over 30years old still. Think of the comparison of some of the real cars from that era against this modern rubbish. Especially the British leyland cars over here. But for me, a lover of all things wheeled and old srb's are awesome who cares if they don't drive all that well just look at them. Amazing!
  7. Well Im glad Im not the only one with a bouncy champ. It just doesnt seem to work although they didnt know it at the time probably but its now quite a collectable and unusual model. I agree the realism in most of there rc models particularly some of the early stuff is fantastic.
  8. Cheers for your post Will16. I have to agree with you, as with most things simplicity is best.
  9. Hi TCers, Are any of you down in sunny Devon or anywhere else in the South west of the UK? Im in Torquay myself. Cheers Marcus
  10. Hi Guys, First time starting a thread on here. I've been thinking since having an afternoon running my SRB's round the garden. Was the SuperChamp really the best out of the bunch? I find on the grass it has huge understeer due to such a weighty rear end and no diff with the spiked tyres. It also seems much bouncier on the rear end than the others. I run the shock with minimal oil in it but it just doesnt seem to absorb anything. Its almost like the spring rate is way to strong for the weight of the car. Of course the SRBs are designed to be run on loose surfaces like sand but I find the best around the garden are the scorchers, they still get grip roll but they tend to steer from the rear which is my driving style for everything rather than the rough riders which dig in more and violently flip over. The ranger is kind of in the middle I find but I still really enjoy driving it. So I thought I'd ask you lot, whats the best handling SRB out of the bunch in relatively stock form and did Tamiya get it right with the Super Champ? Cheers Marcus
  11. The zip tie is for holding the suspension arms tight together with the hub. It is a very common thing on used SRB's that the ball joints just pop out.
  12. VINTAGE SAND SCORCHER I am just clearing down as I now have 4 scorchers. I spent many hours restoring this scorcher and then enjoyed thrashing it around on the beach. The bug is all original but is fitted with ballrace bearings which give less friction for longer run times and better performance. I fitted a Tamiya TEU-101BK esc to give better control and more power over the original MSC. The shell is also from a 2010 sand scorcher re-release. It is missing 4 cam locks but I used two bolts with body pins as it was a lot easier than the 4 awkward cam locks. The body has been painted in automotive paints, it isn't a shelf queen standard paint job but it looks awesome flicking up sand. The nosecone has had the number plate reccess filled to give a more racey look. Adding to which it has no glass in the body and number boards in the rear windows to set this bug out from the crowd. The decals are repro and not great quality, a few are slitghtly peeling but that doesn't matter, I built this bug to be enjoyed rather than just looked at. The tyres are original and still in good condition but the fronts are a bit "dry". The outer wheel covers are the originals which have been freshened up with a white aerosol. Sand scorchers are known for there scale replica VW beetle style suspension, however this means that on any surfaces other than sand they have a tendancy to roll even a slow speeds. Therefore, I fitted this bug with rear shocks from a TL-01 touring car which don't allow the rear arms to drop out at a ridiculous angle which makes them much easier to drive anywhere. There is no front shocks fitted to this scorcher. This does not affect the handling at all as the originals leaked so much they were only there for looks. No radio gear is included. You will need, radio gear, battery and front shocks (if you want to have them) to run this bug! Also, included is a driver which still needs finishing. The buyer of this bug will be very, veru happy. This would suit any tamiya collector. I would like £190 ono for this scorcher. UK postage is £12 and will be sent out 1st class recorded. Please PM me if interested.
  13. Hi everybody, After watching some videos and looking at loads of great pictures of SRB's splashing about in salt water I was wondering if this causes any problems. It looks spectacular but I don't want to wreck the car doing it. Do you use plastic or brass bushings rather than bearings so they don't rust? Will the torsion bars seize up? Does it have to be a full strip and rebuild after each run? What do you use to clean them off? Any information and tips on what I can do to prevent any problems would be much appreciated. Thanks Marcus
  14. Hi Tupers, I'm down in Torquay, Devon. We've got some brilliant beaches.I'm desperate to arrange something in the summer. Thanks Vintage Hilux Fan
  15. Thanks for the reply. But the overall diameter of the re re ball plates are much bigger than on the orginals, they dont actually fit into recess on the arms. VINTAGE HILUX FAN
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