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About speedy_w_beans

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  1. "Eh, what's that sonny? What did you say? Why are my joints so stiff and my headlights so dim? Let me tell you about the time I almost made it to the IFMAR off-road world championship back in 1985... *staring distantly from his shelf* *presses button* Nurse, I need my diff changed!"
  2. I've driven my F103GT in the cul-de-sac in front of my house and thought it performed fine on that unprepared surface. It just has a silver can motor and the kit Super Slick tires on it. I did take time to balance the car with weight and limit steering travel. I'd enter a corner two ways either by braking enough and carrying momentum through the turn, or coming in a little hot and scrubbing speed with some understeer. Exiting a corner, I had to wait to apply throttle a little longer, and even then, I just rolled on the throttle and didn't treat it as a binary switch. I think if I replaced the rear tires with some wider, softer 31 mm ones, the rear would be really quite planted. I just finished my RJ Speed pan car and used soft F1 rubber tires on it, and was delighted with how well it drove. There's just a slight air gap between the rubber and foam inserts, so the tire has more contact patch with the pavement It actually is even easier to drive then the F193GT, and it has even less of a suspension. So my view is pan cars take effort to set up, and they take different driving habits. They're not point-and-shoot like touring cars.
  3. For me the projects and results are artifacts of a learning process. If all the projects were done that would mean I'm no longer enjoying or learning anything, so the next steps would include: 1) Pick a few projects that were my favorites and keep them as trophies. 2) Sell all the remaining cars and kits to recoup some cash. 3). Keep all the tools I bought or built, as well as general supplies. 4). Move on to the next hobby or interest that will provide some novel learning experiences and leverage what I learned. I may hit that point in the next 3-5 years if some of my remaining goals are achieved.
  4. Depends where you are, but Duratrax and Pactra paints are still available. https://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors-pactra/pactra-3oz-sprays https://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html A pearl coat will lighten any color applied to it. So a brown will become a light brown or tan. If you really need brown, you'll likely have to mix your own using Parma Faskolor or Liquitex primary colors and an airbrush. BUT, check formulation because some of these may not stand up to impact damage.
  5. For a long time I convinced myself I always 'needed' the better setup -- ball bearings, oil dampers, turnbuckles, nylon plastics, etc. etc. etc. Add in some alloy and carbon fiber too! You can see several examples in my showroom. A tried a different route with just a plain TT02 a year or two ago. Kit stock with non-adjustable arms, friction shocks, no hopups other than ball bearings. I took it for a drive with a mild brushless setup and I was pretty impressed with the handling on a completely unprepared, pebble-ridden street surface. The kit silver springs and no damping actually worked just fine for fooling around. I didn't care about the camber, caster, or toe of the suspension. The car tracked straight and turned well given the power level going through it. The only reason I added ball bearings was to avoid some future maintenance and teardown of the gearboxes and uprights. It really wasn't terrible. The way Alexei writes about his desires, it sounds like he just wants to charge a battery and go outside to drive around in the street. Maybe do some loops, some figure-8's, some mock road course with some sticks for corner markers... Who knows. Not a top spec car, not the fastest car, not really something to fuss over but something to have some casual fun with. Almost like a casual hobby that has some journey associated with it. So in this case I wouldn't worry about getting the best TT02; I'd get the base TT02 and string this along for a year with a new hopup every few months while I enjoy other non-RC parts of my life too. Build it, drive it, then try something and really work with it. Then try something else two months later. The actual money spent won't be as important as the experience of seeing how the car improves over time and making it your own. No need to get to the endpoint as quickly as possible in this case.
  6. I recently put together a TT02D and was surprised to discover the ball bearings in the uprights are 1050s instead of the usual 1150s. Also, the steering on the D seems to have less Ackermann than the standard TT02; at least it looks that way as I have a TT02 and a TT02D sitting next to each other. The springs are softer than the usual touring springs. So, if I was going to pick a TT02 for casual street driving I'd buy a base TT02 (not D, R, RR, S, SR, etc.) and put the money towards ball bearings and a pinion gear to start. Build it, drive it, and slowly upgrade the dampers and steering and appreciate how it changes the performance. Maybe spring for a front one-way. Spring for a brushless system. Buy some different body shells and wheels/tires to keep it fresh. Drive it a lot and scape it up; don't be afraid to use it and modify it to your heart's content.
  7. All my best bashers were 1/8 scale e-buggies or e-truggies. The materials and construction are way beyond anything 1/10 scale or made out of plastic. If you can find an Associated, Mugen, Tekno, or even a closeout TRF for a few hundred it will require a new level of investment in electronics, but the vehicle will be bulletproof.
  8. Some serious hardware you have there...
  9. In my early days in the hobby I wanted to try a wide variety of chassis and bought kits accordingly. Then I went through a phase of bargain hunting watching for deep discounts or closeout specials. Now I'm more selective and pull the trigger only if the kit has a body I like. My collection is skewed more towards on-road touring and pan cars with a small variety of off-road thrown in.
  10. I agree with you 100% from a technical perspective. At the same time, there is a universal joint marketed as a "CVD," and generally people have a mental picture of what that looks like. If you search on the web for "3Racing CVD," "Yeah Racing CVD," "Xtra Speed CVD," etc. you'll see something like this (which is a universal joint): Search results also show something like this (which is a DCJ): Then there's the universal joint most people think of and is functionally similar to the "CVD" shown above: So, yes, I agree that a "CVD" is really a "universal joint" technically speaking. At the same time, the manufacturers have chosen marketing terminology to distinguish the appearance of two universal joints. It's still the case the dogbone is the sloppiest solution, with universal joints (either true universal joints or "CVDs") reducing some slop, and finally DCJs being the best. Thanks for pointing this out; hopefully this clarifies things for everyone.
  11. There are some old posts floating around (can't find them now) that discuss the effect of angles and joints on axle velocity. If you imagine the main long axle shaft spinning at the same continuous speed as the differential, then as soon as the shaft terminates in a joint like a dogbone end or CVD joint, then the axle stub actually doesn't spin at the same continuous speed. To the naked eye it looks continuous, but through the course of one full rotation the axle stub actually moves a little faster and a little slower than the axle itself. There's math to explain this. So, as you increase steering angle then the amount of variation in the axle stub speed increases and it shows up as chatter. The point of the DCJ is to create a second joint in addition to the first joint, and the intermediate segment between the two joints sees the speed variation but also splits the steering angle evenly so the axle stub's speed doesn't have that variation on every rotation. Again, there's math to explain this. So if you're bashing casually, regular old dogbones or CVDs are just fine as you'll not really notice or care about minute levels of cyclic speed variation in the axle stubs. If you're competition drifting or competition racing, you might think about DCJs as they eliminate that effect and will provide a little more consistent speed (and therefore tire grip) relative to the surface. It really is a progression of improvement -- dogbones are the lowest with a lot of side play and looseness in their joint cups, as well as the axle stub speed chatter. CVDs are a little better in that they can eliminate side play and at least one point of looseness; there's only one dogbone end and one CVD joint. There can still be some axle stub speed variation, but the tightness of the subassembly hides the chatter a little better. Finally the DCJs are like the CVDs but improve on the joint by having two joints. So the side play and single dogbone end are still there, but the double joint setup splits the steering angle and eliminates the axle stub cyclic speed variation. So, they cost more but they are definitely an improvement. This Wikipedia article explains it more: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Universal_joint
  12. Did a little Googling and I read a case where someone said he had to turn on his third channel to make the LEDs work correctly. With a 2-channel radio, you may be out of luck.
  13. From other radios I've used, channel 1 is usually for the steering servo and channel 2 is for the ESC. Also, looking at your photo, it looks like you skipped channel 2 and plugged into channels 3 and 4 of the receiver; should those leads be moved over one position? I think I'd: Move the LED controller's channel 2 and channel 3 leads over one position on the receiver; make sure the LED controller's lead are plugged into the corresponding receiver channels. Swap the ESC and servo connections to the LED controller so the servo is on channel 1 and the ESC is on channel 2. I see you left channel 3 unconnected (the black channel 3 tag); just leave that unconnected for now... Edit to add: I don't think this is a genuine Tamiya product. It shows the logo on the channel tags and on the body of the LED controller, but this looks more like a generic GT Power controller and not a Tamiya TLU-series controller. I'd still recommend the changes noted above, but it may be worth a try to leave CH3 disconnected on the receiver too since you don't have a three-channel radio sending a valid signal to the third channel.
  14. Parts are listed at the back of the manual: https://www.tamiyausa.com/media/files/42345ml-1117-c1b7.pdf They finally caught up with 3Racing...
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