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About speedy_w_beans

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  1. I'm going to take a contrarian position and suggest you take nothing, @Saito2. If it's been 10 years since you've taken a vacation, and it's 5 days long, then use every moment to take in the scenery and make some memories with your wife and daughter. Bring a blanket, some picnic food, a camera, Frisbees, shovels and tools for making sand castles, etc. Make that vacation special for your wife and daughter; who knows when you'll get a chance to do it again. You can drive RC cars anytime around the house or at a local park. Just an opinion.
  2. I recently bought a copy of the 510 body and was disappointed to find it didn't come with the chrome bumper/wiper/mirror parts the original body had. I guess this body came in two versions originally -- one with chrome detail parts, and one that is more of track version missing those details. As far as I can tell only the track version is available at the moment.
  3. When I was building my 84264 R91CP kit, I felt that pit-in-the-stomach feeling after laying down all the coats of paint and then realizing I hadn't masked the headlights. I was so angry with myself! Luckily a spare body set was available, so I started over with a fresh body to get a decent final result. But it was a time and money setback, certainly. I messed up a few HPI bodies and had to start over, and I had to replace a portion of a Unimog body where I was overzealous with the trimming. It's rarely a mechanical problem that sinks me, but finishing a body takes quite a bit of concentration to get a reasonable end result.
  4. Not Tamiya, but I grabbed a Losi 22s no-prep drag roller for $125 off Tower Hobbies. I already had a Pro-Line Chevy Nova body waiting for a chassis, so this is perfect to build a complete model. No-prep drag roller: link Nova body: link But eventually I really want a Barracuda body: link Almost as good a deal as the $119 Axial SMT10 builder's kit I picked up last year...
  5. To answer the OP's question, to me the best Tamiyas are TB03 and TA05 onroad chassis and the worst are DT02 and DF03 buggies. The TA05 and TB03 bring a lot of TRF DNA at a budget price. I appreciate the materials and parts included -- glass-filled nylon plastics, machine screws, ball bearings, turnbuckles, oil dampers, etc. are in the box along with really nice Autobacs/Super GT body shells. Driving one these vs. a basic TT01 or TT02, there's no comparison even in the street. The DT02 and DF03 just don't have the materials, parts, durability, or competitiveness to warrant attention. I actually think going backwards to a DT01 and DF01 are better choices, or just jumping to another brand for off-road buggies.
  6. The kit JIS screws are fine if you use a good screwdriver (JIS tip or equivalent). The small suspension blocks are made of very stiff plastic and benefit from running a thread-forming tap through them first. Otherwise the rest of car can be built just fine with the kit screws.
  7. Just visited a local hobby shop yesterday and ran into something I didn't expect -- chained off areas that used to be accessible by customers. I visited the same store a few months ago, and the part of the store that has alcoves of parts and stacks of bodies is now restricted. Any customer who wants to visit that part of the store needs to have an employee accompany him. I asked why, and one of the employees explained they were having problems with people stealing. "It's either this or close shop." My wife and I were surprised and disappointed; the general public doesn't know/doesn't care what's in a hobby shop, so why do some hobbyists have to be that way? A few bad apples make the hobby shop experience less inviting.
  8. If it performs better than stock for him in his application/conditions, then kudos to him for chasing his goal and finding a design that works. At first glance it seems to have an anti-Ackermann steering arrangement with some degree of bump steer, and the total chassis looks like the mass is concentrated at the ends leading to a high polar moment of inertia. Therefore, kind of an unusual steering setup with some sensitivity to bumps and a resistance to turning. It's about as opposite as you can get from a normal touring car with mid-motor, mid-battery, mid-servo layout, standard Ackermann, and virtually no bump steer. But that's just a feeling, not a measured result. Maybe in really low-grip conditions this setup makes the car easier to control overall. If he's winning races and accomplishing his goals, good for him!
  9. A lot of the higher end kits have MSRP prices in Japanese yen next to the item number. For example, the TRF416X box has a price of 79800 yen right next to the item number. At today's conversion rate, that's a $547 USD kit MSRP. Typically the street prices were lower. If you can get a TRF416X in used, very good, complete condition for the price of a new TT02, it is absolutely worth the price if you are planning to freshen it up, protect the chassis plates, and run it / enjoy it for yourself. It is at the opposite end of the spectrum from a TT02 with carbon/aluminum, threaded dampers, bearings, turnbuckles, suspension blocks, lots of adjustability and tuning potential. Other kits with Japanese yen prices next to the item number include TRF201, DB01RR, TB03VDS, etc. If you can find images of boxes for the kits you're interested in, check the sides of the box where the item number is. There's a chance you'll find Tamiya's MSRP printed there.
  10. That's fair. I wasn't thinking about 2WD TRF at the time. I pulled all the manuals for 4WD, and I did make mistakes. DB01 base: 37T ball diffs DB01R: 37T ball diffs DB01RR: 37T gear diffs, *BA25 metal cross pins, GV1/GV2 plastic gears* DB01RRR: 39T gear diffs, *MA24 metal cross pins, GV1/GV2 plastic gears* TRF501x: *36T* ball diffs TRF511: 37T ball diffs TRF503: 39T gear diffs, BB12 metal cross pins, BB18/BB19 metal gears Given the spec of the TRF503, I can't see anything to improve inside the diffs unless there's room for more shims on the spider gears to reduce lash. Outside the diffs, maybe the DB01 double slipper will help *if it fits*. Tamiya hasn't published all the manuals for all the flavors of TRF201/XM/XMW/211, so, another subject for another time I guess. For reference, this is where I'm looking: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
  11. Looks like the TRF503 does not come with the double slipper setup Tamiya offers as an option on the DB01. The idea behind the double slipper is to let the front and rear slip independently, decoupling all that inertia and reducing stress on the drivetrain. If the double slipper fits, I'd give that a try. The TRF503 and DB01RRR both introduced new 39T gear diff cases vs. the 37T cases used on the DB01RR and the 37T ball diffs used on the DB01R/DB01/TRF501x/TRF511x. As such there's much less collective experience on the 503 and RRR. All gear diff cases across the DB/TRF family used metal cross pins and gears; only the TT02B comes with plastic diff gears.
  12. Buy a body set instead of a complete kit. Then buy whatever chassis you like, anything from a low-level 3Racing to a mid-range TA/TB to a high level TRF (insert other brands or chassis codes as desired). You'll get a body without pre-punched holes and the chassis will be equipped to whatever level you like. Use magnetic body mounts to move the body to another chassis later.
  13. I've sprayed PS paint on styrene parts before and used an acrylic gloss clear coat on top of it; it turned out well enough. Maybe give that a try on a test sample before painting the real parts.
  14. So I was bored and decided to read the whole thread again and catalog all the complaints. My initial reaction is it's a miracle anyone older than 12 and anyone outside Japan buys a Tamiya RC kit at all. But, with a little more reflection I guess what this list really represents is the union/sum of all feedback. I doubt every person in this thread holds every item against Tamiya; depending on who you are, some of these are quite negotiable. If I was a manufacturer and tried to balance all the subject matter, licensing, features, designs, capital investments, raw materials, manufacturing, documentation, distribution, sales, build process, and support issues (with a backdrop of economic cycles, currency fluctuations, shipping variability, and geopolitical stability) to satisfy everyone, I'd go crazy with as wide an offering as Tamiya has. I'd have to focus on a more specific offering, like what Fenix and CRC do. Anyhow, here's the list: The Kit Itself Need more model diversity (see other threads on body wish lists) Lack of chassis diversity (same chassis over and over) Inaccurate details (chassis, suspensions, motor placement) Toss-together packaging (decal damage, parts damage) Half-baked kits require hopups (want a higher standard base kit) Established model names used for cash grabs (Astute, Avante, for example) Expensive prices especially adding hopups Design/Features Friction shocks Non-standard wheel sizes (buggy/truck wheels?) Lack of 12mm front hexes (bearings in front wheels) 26mm width wheel compatibility (touring suspension arm design) Hardware Press nuts Self-tapping screws JIS screws (hex instead) Plastic bearings/bushings (standard ball bearings) Alloy pinions (standard steel pinions) E-clips Electronics Poor LiPo support (battery trays, ESC cutoffs) Mechanical speed controllers TEU ESCs (use HobbyWing instead - actually happening!) Servo saver never centered at 0 radio trim Bodies Hard shell bodies Mold lines Polycarbonate bodies Prepunched body post holes Discontinued PC bottle paints No paint in the kit, especially for very small details Unrealistic sponsors/brands California license plates Lack of die-cut stickers (historically some don't want die-cut, though) Masking tape dispenser Quality Sloppy suspension joints Play in bearings and joints Sales/Distribution/Support Japan-first attitude permeates the whole experience Limited editions and pre-orders Not much local hobby store inventory or support Lack of parts support Buying whole trees of parts for one part It's their company and their product; patronize them or don't. To me the bottom line is it's a hobby; try to have some fun with it.
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