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speedy_w_beans

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About speedy_w_beans

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  1. @Grastens, I'm glad you're back even if for just a moment to share an update. I'm sorry you are facing challenges with work, and I hope you can find something else in the near future. I can't remember if I emailed you the 3D files I created for the various detail parts on your car, but if you'd like to have them so your friend can print extras I'm happy to send them over. Stay positive; we're rooting for you!
  2. @martinjpayne, this is what I grabbed: link The price seems to have jumped up $25; not sure why. It's the same machine from the same seller.
  3. I think you should change the duplicate thread title to "Sometimes they come back (again)..." in honor of the movie series...
  4. @martinjpayne Yes, definitely. I'm looking to make various chassis plates out of FRP/GRP/carbon fiber with this. There are several videos of this machine on YouTube; I think this one is particularly balanced and fair. Some of the shortcomings and concerns he had have been addressed in the kit I received (cap head hex screws vs. Philips screws, washers, one-piece work table, number of angle brackets, etc.). The build process starts from the beginning of the video; the software and usage examples start at 11:00. I haven't cut anything yet, but I'm looking forward to giving it a try.
  5. "What I did today" was take "what the postman brought me" the other day and finish building/updating/tuning it... It took about 10 hours total to build the mini CNC engraver, but the final result is better than I expected and I'm glad I spent $130 for it. The construction is based on aluminum extrusions, aluminum corner brackets, cap head hex screws, washers, T-nuts, injection-molded plastic parts, rods and linear bearings, lead screws, ball bearings, stepper motors, and an Arduino Uno board with GRBL-style electronics. The instructions were very poor; individual steps didn't call out the required parts, so you had to make your best guesses at times. There was no advice for squaring the frame accurately. I used various scales, straight edges, flat surfaces, large calipers, and other tools to get it as square as possible. Spacing the rods, linear bearings, lead screws, and frame mounts took some iterations to get everything spaced and oriented well. The reward is a work plane that is consistent to 0.02 to 0.03 mm relative to the collet on the motor. The parts themselves are pretty good quality; even the aluminum extrusions were cut accurately/consistently and only needed minimal filing to knock down some burrs. Relative to the cheap 3D printers I've built in the past, I really like the stiffness of the final result. I feel like ordering another one of these and transplanting some 3D printer parts just because the frame and table are so rigid and consistent. It would be an upgrade to the print area I have currently, as well. GRBL 0.9 was preinstalled on the Arduino/GRBL board, but I downloaded GRBL 1.1 and installed it instead. There were no problems connecting to GRBL with Universal Gcode Sender and jogging the table and collet around. The collet motor spun up as well. So, I have to get some better cutter bits, some sacrificial board, and some clamps/fixturing to finish preparing it for use. There's a future RC project in mind already, but it may take a little while before I get around to it. For the time being I'm simply happy to add this little tool to the collection.
  6. Well, have I got the thread for you! If you browse the results you'll see what chassis people are using to get their results. In general the on-road TRF, TA, and FF chassis are at the top. Many TB, TT, and buggy chassis suffer from enclosed gearboxes which limit your gearing choices.
  7. If you've gone back to 4WD then it might make sense to configure the car kit stock and go from there. The car has a lot of changes incorporated into it anticipating RWD, and then it was switched to 4WD without undoing those changes. All those differences could be adding up.
  8. My expectation is to use the same design tool I use for 3D printing, FreeCAD, but change the downstream flow. 3D printing flow: FreeCAD (design) --> export STL mesh file --> Slic3r (layer slicer/gcode generator) --> export gcode machine file --> Marlin (3D printer machine firmware) Engraver flow: FreeCAD (design) --> CAM module in FreeCAD --> export gcode machine file --> Universal Gcode Sender (serial port file sender) --> GRBL (low-end CNC machine firmware) All the software is free, so I've been spending small chunks on the machines just to learn and try things. The printer is a really basic Tronxy X1 I paid $120 for; the engraver as you can see is a really basic $130 unit off eBay. The Tronxy came with a few quality defects, and it took me probably twice the time expected to build it and set it up accurately (about 16 hours vs. 8 hours planned). It wouldn't surprise me if this little engraver also took some extra time as I already see some of the edges of the aluminum extrusions are rough. There's probably more filing/fitting/finishing/squaring needed than I first thought. In theory it can cut more than flat sheet, but I think the collet and the length of the cutter realistically sets depth limitations. I doubt I could cut more than 8-10 mm of depth with a 1 mm diameter cutter. Fine for sheet material in the 2-3 mm range, and maybe even some nylon material up to 8-10 mm. But I'm not going to oversell this -- just as parts made with home 3D printers take additional manual steps to finish nicely, I suspect anything I make with this will need some sanding or touch-up to finish the part. Not a terrible price to pay, really. It's this or a few TT/M kits, and these tools have a lot of replay value. I was thinking about doing a build thread/review on this if anyone is interested; we could stick it in the TC Designs forum for posterity.
  9. The postman brought me something to cut some FRP, carbon fiber, and nylon with (hopefully!)...
  10. OK, I consolidated the modified Tamiya category as you suggested. I'm thinking you could do as well as your TT02 run, if not better, since the TRF has an open area for pinions and spurs. Good luck!
  11. Worked on my M05 a little bit today... Edit: I've seen more showroom entries with cars in scale garages lately; the scale garages based on printed photos sometimes really trick me for a second or two. Today I photographed my real garage, photographed my M05 in the garage with the same lighting, and then did some scaling/positioning to see what sort of effect I could get.
  12. I was thinking while reading above that maybe the battery could go in toolbox like one of these diamond-plate models, but I also understand the value of easy battery access and the idea this is more of a casual model... Anyhow, neat build!
  13. I can certainly see where brushed motors will still be an option for a long time, but maybe current brushless tech will be superseded by this newer motor construction and electronic control scheme. I have to believe racers would be the first to adopt it through sponsorship and paying the expected higher cost, with it trickling down to mainstream hobbyists over time. What did it take for current brushless to become mainstream? 5 years? 10 years? Given this new tech is in demonstration phase, it will take quite awhile to convince manufacturers, get licenses in place, build out the supply chain, prove it in applications, etc. I bet it's an easy 5 to 10 years away from hitting the RC scene. Quite a few of my cars have brushless systems in them, but I still like brushed motors for monster trucks and pan cars. There's something about the soft startup and somewhat spongy dynamic that I like for these vehicles vs. the harsher startups and direct response of brushless in my buggies and touring cars. Plus, brushed is pretty inexpensive now with Mabuchi motors available for $4 and brushed ESCs available for $11.
  14. @stew_mac, that's a blazing run! Well done! I updated your listing in the modified Tamiya category, but do you have two TT02s (one TT02 and one TT02R) or just one you're working with? I just want to keep the list accurate. Again, nice job!
  15. I wonder if we'll see this tech eventually trickle down to RC... The video suggests full 1:1 EVs can operate without gearboxes, so I would think we could see the same thing with 1/10 scale vehicles. No more picking pinions and spur gears, maybe. Is this the next tech improvement in RC?
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