Jump to content

speedy_w_beans

Members
  • Content Count

    3842
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

4199 Excellent

3 Followers

About speedy_w_beans

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Carolina

Recent Profile Visitors

19562 profile views
  1. That's fair. I wasn't thinking about 2WD TRF at the time. I pulled all the manuals for 4WD, and I did make mistakes. DB01 base: 37T ball diffs DB01R: 37T ball diffs DB01RR: 37T gear diffs, *BA25 metal cross pins, GV1/GV2 plastic gears* DB01RRR: 39T gear diffs, *MA24 metal cross pins, GV1/GV2 plastic gears* TRF501x: *36T* ball diffs TRF511: 37T ball diffs TRF503: 39T gear diffs, BB12 metal cross pins, BB18/BB19 metal gears Given the spec of the TRF503, I can't see anything to improve inside the diffs unless there's room for more shims on the spider gears to reduce lash. Outside the diffs, maybe the DB01 double slipper will help *if it fits*. Tamiya hasn't published all the manuals for all the flavors of TRF201/XM/XMW/211, so, another subject for another time I guess. For reference, this is where I'm looking: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
  2. Looks like the TRF503 does not come with the double slipper setup Tamiya offers as an option on the DB01. The idea behind the double slipper is to let the front and rear slip independently, decoupling all that inertia and reducing stress on the drivetrain. If the double slipper fits, I'd give that a try. The TRF503 and DB01RRR both introduced new 39T gear diff cases vs. the 37T cases used on the DB01RR and the 37T ball diffs used on the DB01R/DB01/TRF501x/TRF511x. As such there's much less collective experience on the 503 and RRR. All gear diff cases across the DB/TRF family used metal cross pins and gears; only the TT02B comes with plastic diff gears.
  3. Buy a body set instead of a complete kit. Then buy whatever chassis you like, anything from a low-level 3Racing to a mid-range TA/TB to a high level TRF (insert other brands or chassis codes as desired). You'll get a body without pre-punched holes and the chassis will be equipped to whatever level you like. Use magnetic body mounts to move the body to another chassis later.
  4. I've sprayed PS paint on styrene parts before and used an acrylic gloss clear coat on top of it; it turned out well enough. Maybe give that a try on a test sample before painting the real parts.
  5. So I was bored and decided to read the whole thread again and catalog all the complaints. My initial reaction is it's a miracle anyone older than 12 and anyone outside Japan buys a Tamiya RC kit at all. But, with a little more reflection I guess what this list really represents is the union/sum of all feedback. I doubt every person in this thread holds every item against Tamiya; depending on who you are, some of these are quite negotiable. If I was a manufacturer and tried to balance all the subject matter, licensing, features, designs, capital investments, raw materials, manufacturing, documentation, distribution, sales, build process, and support issues (with a backdrop of economic cycles, currency fluctuations, shipping variability, and geopolitical stability) to satisfy everyone, I'd go crazy with as wide an offering as Tamiya has. I'd have to focus on a more specific offering, like what Fenix and CRC do. Anyhow, here's the list: The Kit Itself Need more model diversity (see other threads on body wish lists) Lack of chassis diversity (same chassis over and over) Inaccurate details (chassis, suspensions, motor placement) Toss-together packaging (decal damage, parts damage) Half-baked kits require hopups (want a higher standard base kit) Established model names used for cash grabs (Astute, Avante, for example) Expensive prices especially adding hopups Design/Features Friction shocks Non-standard wheel sizes (buggy/truck wheels?) Lack of 12mm front hexes (bearings in front wheels) 26mm width wheel compatibility (touring suspension arm design) Hardware Press nuts Self-tapping screws JIS screws (hex instead) Plastic bearings/bushings (standard ball bearings) Alloy pinions (standard steel pinions) E-clips Electronics Poor LiPo support (battery trays, ESC cutoffs) Mechanical speed controllers TEU ESCs (use HobbyWing instead - actually happening!) Servo saver never centered at 0 radio trim Bodies Hard shell bodies Mold lines Polycarbonate bodies Prepunched body post holes Discontinued PC bottle paints No paint in the kit, especially for very small details Unrealistic sponsors/brands California license plates Lack of die-cut stickers (historically some don't want die-cut, though) Masking tape dispenser Quality Sloppy suspension joints Play in bearings and joints Sales/Distribution/Support Japan-first attitude permeates the whole experience Limited editions and pre-orders Not much local hobby store inventory or support Lack of parts support Buying whole trees of parts for one part It's their company and their product; patronize them or don't. To me the bottom line is it's a hobby; try to have some fun with it.
  6. Just out of curiosity I was wondering if any shaft-drive chassis has ever won the IFMAR Worlds. I think @qatmix may have written this brief history (link here); the short answer is 'no.' Is there a clear dividing line where belt cars dominate in some race classes, and shaft-drive cars dominate in other race classes?
  7. I suspect it's a question of Ohm's Law and measurement methods the charger uses. The charger is probably showing 8.43 V and 3.00 A right at the charger output jacks. There is a small amount of resistance associated with all connector contacts, lengths of wire used in the charging leads and battery leads, and the cells themselves. The current (3.00 A) multiplied by the series resistance of the connectors, leads, and cells (about 20 milliohms) is what results in the 60 mV discrepancy you noticed. The short answer is that the 60 mV difference and 3.00 A of current results in about 180 mW of dissipated power in the wires, connectors, and cells; a very small amount of heat you probably can't feel since it is distributed across the full length of wire, multiple connector junctions, and surface area of the battery. The balance lead itself serves double duty as a Kelvin connection to the battery as well as to steer a small amount of current in/out the center connection between the two cells in the battery. Because the balance lead is connected directly to the cells and is not carrying substantial current, it doesn't exhibit the same voltage gradient between the battery cells and the charger. The individual cell readings from the balance plug more accurately represent the state of the cells in the battery, not the overall voltage shown at the charger output jacks. My LiPo chargers do the same thing, and I've even noticed over the years certain charge leads have some wear and tear on them leading to larger differences between the overall voltage and the individual cell voltages added together. This seems to be attributed to connector cycling, as new charge leads with tighter connectors have reduced the difference a good amount, but not entirely. If you charge your battery at a lower current, like 1.00 A instead of 3.00 A, you'll probably see the voltage difference reduce proportionately. Also, if you happen to watch your battery charger as it gets close to the end of the cycle, it will reduce current from the maximum 3.00 A to lower levels as the cells get close to their target voltages. In that case you'll also see the difference between the main voltage the summed individual cell voltages will be less, too. In summary: The difference between the charger voltage and the summed cell voltages, multiplied by the current, is the power being dissipated in the connectors, wires, and cells. You should not be able to feel any heat. The individual cell voltages are more important than the charger's output voltage. Connectors do wear with cycling, and internal resistance of cells will rise with cycling. If you start noticing large differences between the charger output voltage and summed cell voltages, it's worth investigating if connectors or the battery itself needs replacing. Heat and LiPos, large voltage differences, cell imbalances = no bueno.
  8. @WillyChang, looks more like a 125,000 to 150,000 yen kit to me... Locally the TRF420x MSRPs for $1400 USD, or almost $1000 USD at retailers, or about $700 USD at retailers in HK. Range of 186,000 (MSRP) to 93,000 (HK) yen. I don't think the EVO 8 commands the same premium as the 420x, but still it's going to be pricey. Looks really pretty and seems to have lots of adjustability.
  9. Any guesses on pricing?
  10. Here's something I did for Scollins based on his contest-winning design. Holiday inspiration: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133233&id=5414 https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134457&id=5414 I did a cattle-themed "Bump Steer" Lunch Box in the past too. Plenty of guys doing A-Team and Scooby Doo vans Love to do a 70s wizard mural or space-themed custom van someday, or one with side bubble heart windows. Just some thoughts.
  11. Seems like a good deal given the motor mount and other items are included. I think for the third time in 10 years my photo hosting went dead. I just haven't made the time to re-host the photos and fix the links. It's a time-consuming process with about 1500 photos to link again.
  12. What do you need painted? Do you have a design concept in mind?
  13. Tamiya USA closed these out at $99 for the kit a few years ago. If you're specifically wanting a TRF801xt, then the price is fair since kits are no longer available from Tamiya. They'll likely never get back into TRF 1/8 nitro buggies or truggies ever again. The main weak point on the kit is the front arms. They tended to break easily, but to remedy that some people reported success submerging the arms in boiling water for a period of time to relieve molded in stress in the parts. I have a finished TRF801xt of my own and have bashed it with a brushless conversion running 4S LiPo. It's durable and a joy to drive; you can really see the suspension working to keep those tires planted. It steers nicely, and others have even increased steering by using 801x buggy knuckles instead. I boiled the front arms, installed the hop up aluminum center braces, and bought a Monster RC brushless motor mount. Those were the key mods/upgrades for me. I used a Pro-Line Bulldog MBX6T Mugen body in place of the kit body, HobbyKing 120A SCT ESC w/ 1900kV 1/8 motor, Savox 1258TG clone servo, and a pair of 2S packs wired in series. It'll be about a $500 build after adding everything to complete the basic kit. Probably the most durable off-road kit you can get from Tamiya.
  14. Parts: Aluminum front suspension mount: 54037 Aluminum rear suspension mount: 54038 TRF501X diff joints: 51286 TRF501X diff plates: 51287 Tungsten carbide diff balls: 3mm balls, Acer or comparable DB01 gear diff: 54329 Reinforced belts: 54140 Standard slipper clutch: 54018 Double slipper clutch: 54061 Beyond the basic durability upgrades listed above, the next big upgrade to consider would be better shocks. I always felt like the kit CVAs included in the Durga kit worked fine on asphalt in the street, but didn't offer enough performance in the dirt. Tamiya, 3Racing, and Yeah Racing all have several options to choose from. After that, it's all personal preference. Search on "DB-01" on TamiyaUSA.com and check the "show discontinued" box to show more. Also go to RCMart.com and take a look through the replacement/upgrade parts for DB01 and TRF501x. Also, Tamiya publishes a parts matching list that shows parts and upgrades here: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/matching/matching_list.pdf Other than a TRF511x or TRF501x, the DB01 series was probably one of the best 4WD buggies Tamiya brought to market. Advocates will say the model uses good plastics and machine screws, tends to be quiet and quite composed, and is very predictable. Critics will say it's boring, heavy, and includes spaceship-blob bodies. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Enjoy!
  15. I was waiting for the "what would you choose" question... I personally would prefer the restomod route with modern chassis, powertrain, suspension, and brakes, but the looks of 60s and 70s classics (talking about automobiles). If the car has the shape, color, trim accents, etc., of the original but improved raw materials that won't rust or fade as easily, so much the better. I think for that reason I have to give a hat tip to Kyosho, Associated, and Losi with their various re-releases. Kyosho used their RB-series gearbox in the Scorpion and Beetle, and offered a belt drive option in their Optima and Javelin. Associated brought their famous Stealth transmission to the re-released Worlds buggy. Losi put a huge smile on my face recently with their 1/16 JRX2 re-release; they claim an updated transmission to handle modern brushless power. All these buggies can take the power of 2022 and handle pretty well, but still provide some semblance of nostalgia.
×
×
  • Create New...