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speedy_w_beans

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About speedy_w_beans

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  1. Chris hasn't fixed the issue with editing first posts/topic posts, so until then there's not much I can do to update the list. I don't think it would be a good idea to copy it over and over in complete form, so we're stuck for now.
  2. If you have digital calipers to measure gear diameter and know the number of teeth, this page of gear calculations should give you pinion pitch: Here Count the number of teeth, N. Measure the outside diameter, DO, with the calipers. Calculate diametral pitch using P=(N+2)/DO or P=(N+1.6)/D0 depending on the style of gear tooth. Calculate circular pitch, p, which is the pitch you're interested in, using p=3.1415926/P. Done.
  3. FWIW, in the USA years of inflation means $1.00 in 1980 is now equivalent to $3.28 today (source: https://www.dollartimes.com/inflation/inflation.php?amount=1&year=1980). So if you remember model kits costing around $7-8 back in the early 80s, then those kits would/could be priced at $26.24 today. In general I agree the re-release molds are all paid for already, but there are some kits with fresh molds. I excitedly bought a MPC 1975 Datsun Pickup re-release kit this summer as I (poorly) assembled an original 40 years ago as a child; the product page indicates there are some new molds to replace missing parts (source: http://round2corp.com/product/1975-datsun-pickup/). I'm just thankful a company like Round2 exists to continue some production. Otherwise these molds and products would disappear completely. I have to tip my hat to whoever is running Round2 and has some passion/interest to keep this going. I'm happy to pay $25-$30 to get retro re-releases for a limited number of subjects I had as a child. I also think the few Tamiya static model kits I purchased recently (Castrol Supra, Ferrari F40, and Toyota TS020) are simply amazing in the level of detail they include compared to their RC kits. $25-30 for retro happiness, and $35 for ultra-detail is just fine for me with the limited number of kits I want. I think I have less than 10 kits on display in my office, and that's about all I'll ever build -- roughly the cost of one mid-level RC chassis like a DB01R or CR01. Sometimes I think about what would happen if the hobby industry completely collapsed. What would I do about paint for all the Lexan shells I have? What about electronics? I have the mini-CNC engraver, 3D printer, color laser printer, and vinyl cutter to do quite a bit on my own, but the time investment to make a model from scratch is quite high. Unless something is specifically a passion project, the prices charged for a box of parts and a body is not that bad for a casual effort. On the other hand, I'd be ok cutting some FRP and aluminum L-channel, and make a basic pan car with paint roller/bicycle tube tires. 3D-print a "hard" body, and that would work. At this point I can't take a hobby that seriously; it has to stay casual and negotiable, or it becomes a second job. Here's a guy who spent a good amount of his adult life making a single model from scratch: Very cool, but I'm not signing up for this level of commitment. If the RC companies or static model companies make something that really excites me, I'll buy it.
  4. My wife always tells me to keep whatever I'm thinking about selling. Lucky me! It doesn't change my urge to clear house from time to time, though.
  5. In my opinion, I would skip the TB04 and go for either the TB03 or the TB05. A few reasons: The TB04 center gearbox is not sealed against dirt/pebbles; depending on where you run it you might catch some very small stones. The TB03 and TB05 are sealed. The way the motor is mounted in the TB04 limits your gearing choices to a certain degree. Even Tamiya recognized this and released a "hopup" spacer for the motor mounting plate so slightly larger pinions could be run. They fixed this in the TB EVO 6. The center gearbox bevel gears suffer some wear and tear depending on how much power you put through it, and how much attention you pay to shimming all the gearboxes during the build. Doing a good job shimming helps; using the DB02's metal bevel gears also helps. At least with early production TB04s, there were some issues with alignment between the center gearbox shaft and the rear gearbox pilot shaft. This led to some binding. Tamiya issued a change to the instructions to improve the situation. In my build I broke out a heat gun and reduced the warpage of the tub; this helped too. Everything else about the TB04 is fine; it's the center gearbox that has susceptibilities and limitations to think about. I don't own a TB05 PRO yet, but I do have several TB03s and a few TB04s. TB03s are perfectly fine chassis even with their ball diffs using 13.5T / 3300kV brushless with them. You can use TB04 gear diffs with a TB03 because the front and rear gearbox casings are the same, but I think you have to file the ends of the TB03 pilot shafts just a little so they don't rub on the TB04 gear diff cases. You might give special attention to the TB05 PRO. The motor can be mounted in front and rear positions to change the weight distribution in the chassis; this could be helpful if you dip your toe in racing some. The rear position makes the TB05 similar to a TB03; the front position makes the TB05 similar to a TB03VDS. Good luck with your choice.
  6. Sounds like an improvement. After MAP was announced, I pretty much did anything except buy Tamiya product locally in the USA. Old projects, other brands, overseas vendors, and even house/car projects took precedence over accepting such a step change in prices. TamiyaUSA did me a favor; they broke most of my impulsive buying habits.
  7. OK, here's what I have... You asked for sheet B of the stickers for 58273 TL01 Subaru Impreza WRC 2001. Per Tamiyabase, the sticker part number is 9495371 (or 19495371) for sheets A and B. I dug through my decal box and found I have sticker part number 1405012, which is for a 57717 XB TT01 Subaru Impreza WRC 2002. Close, but it's off by 1 year. If you look at pictures of the two models on Tamiyabase, you'll see the racing numbers, driver names, and sponsor strip at the top of the windshield are different. Unfortunately I don't have a perfect match; I just remembered having a bug eye Subaru decal sheet. But if you feel the WRC 2002 decals are close enough for your WRC 2001 model, I'm still more than happy to give them to you.
  8. Sorry I've been slow in responding. I've been overloaded with work lately and forgot when I went home for dinner. I just sent myself an email to remind myself tonight.
  9. Let me take a look later tonight and get back to you. If I have what you need, then just cover the postage and that's good enough for me.
  10. Which kit? I have a few different Impreza sticker sheets sitting in storage; I might have what you're looking for. Kit number and/or sticker sheet number will help me make a match if I have it.
  11. Most of my satisfying purchases were early in the hobby for me as I was trying lots of different chassis to get a feel for what I liked. I started in the hobby in 2010 and don't have any real nostalgic feelings hooking me; I'm more of a tinkerer and this is an outlet to better myself. A DB01 Durga was the second RC I ever built, and it really satisfied me. I was impressed with the quality of the plastics (compared to the first RC, a DF03 Dark Impact), liked the standard parts included in the kit, impressed by how quiet the belt drive was, and enjoyed bashing it both in the dirt and in the street. Even the standard springs included in the kit were better fits for the CVAs than the Dark Impact's setup. An Associated B4 Factory Team really satisfied me as well. I bought a kit on closeout from Tower Hobbies as the B4.1s were coming out, and it was a huge step up from the DT02 Sand Viper I previously built. Race-grade, reasonable at $170, felt nearly telepathic to drive. Suddenly, I "got it." Once, my dad was looking over my collection and asked if I could choose only one car, which would it be? I pointed to the B4 FT and it surprised him as it wasn't the most impressive looking, but he understood once I described the driving experience. TB03 kits were a big step up from TT01Es; I was hooked immediately. Ball bearings, oil dampers, turnbuckles, lots of adjustments for ride height/droop/wheelbase/roll center/camber/toe/etc. It's my nature to want to define and control things tightly, and the TB03 gave me lots of levers to adjust. Even after a fresh build, driving it in the street against a TT01R Type E showed it had more potential immediately available. After building some Lunch Boxes, building a Super Clod, and running some Wheely Kings the vehicle I was really satisfied with was the CR01 Unimog. I overdid it and bought way too many hopups for the build, but philosophically I just appreciate the majority use of machine screws, lock nuts, thread locker, metal chassis rails, nice axles and diffs, good plastics, etc. It definitely feels like an Erector Set vehicle with lots of modification potential. In hindsight the most satisfying purchases for me were the mid-level kits; they had better materials, more standard equipment, and more adjustments available than the entry-level kits, but they weren't as pricey as the full race kits. There was no need to replace pinions, plastic bushings, spring holders, upper arms, motor mounts, etc. with "hopups" by default. Generally you can count on a DN01/DB01/TA05/TB03/FF03/CR01 to be a pleasure to build and reasonably robust to drive.
  12. Years ago I went through a phase of buying re-releases and holding them for future builds. After a little while I realized several of them were flawed from a design/durability standpoint, so I sold them off NIB to local buyers. They were never even opened, but I lost about $20/kit just to unload them. How do you make a little money in RC? You start with even more money! I suppose passing some re-re's through my home to other people isn't a terrible thing, though. A few airplane/heli purchases from HobbyKing haven't turned out well. Some OFNA/Hong Nor/Hobao buys I regret. There are some cases where I bought X number of something, and in retrospect I have to wonder why. So yeah, I think the regrets come from cases where I bought multiples of something, bought something off-brand or generic, or bought something with inherent flaws.
  13. Yeah, I've been listening to their Anthology album while driving to/from work this week. They were one of my favorite bands from the 80s.
  14. The red stripes just above the side windows are difficult to do without wrinkling them. You might try the soapy water trick or work with a hairdryer to get them to conform properly. When I did my shell a long time ago, I failed and those stripes were always somewhat wrinkled. The other areas to stress over are the rear wheel arches, and the big "G" decal on the hood won't want to conform to some of the ridges molded into the shell. The headlight buckets, if you use them, will want to fall off later; use a better tape like a Scotch VHB tape if you want them to stick better. Or use the headlight decals and skip the buckets. This was one of the tougher shells I finished; it didn't leave me pleased. Take your time and read up on soapy water and hairdryers if you don't already know about those techniques. Lots of luck! I hope it turns out well for you! Still one of my favorite Tamiya chassis...
  15. Is this what you're looking for? Tamiya Parts Matching List/Table
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