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speedy_w_beans

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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. A pair of Nissans for your pleasure... And some street-style vehicles too...
  2. If you want to experiment a little, lighter fluid or kerosene can be used to soften tires and add some traction. These substances are typically banned at tracks for safety and odor reasons, but if you're just playing in front of the house there's nothing wrong with giving these common fluids a try. I do think the porous nature of street asphalt doesn't lend itself well to slick tires; HPI X-Patterns were rated pretty highly for street bashing when they were produced. Something with a tread pattern, softened with some lighter fluid, might give you what you're after. Don't forget to give a gyro a try for the steering. I found it nearly doubled the perceived rear end grip on my RM01 chassis when I was experimenting with different tires. The gyro catches the rear end stepping out much faster than you can remotely.
  3. Stargek in Singapore was a good experience; this was 7-8 years ago when I went. They had pretty much everything Tamiya made in that store, including the trucks, tanks, and all the off-road and on-road chassis. Lots of supplies and promo items, parts trees hanging on the wall, hopups, etc. I bought a pair of TRF201 (42167) chassis kits from them and packed them in the suitcase for the ride home.
  4. I just see the Limitless and Infraction as responses to Traxxas' XO-1 that came out years ago. You might remember the XO-1 was priced at about $800 and required some unlocking to get the full 100 mph potential. The alternative was to buy a cheap OFNA/Hong Nor/Hobao 1/8 GT chassis and dropping a 6S brushless setup in it. So, ARMMA is offering an alternative to the 1/8 GT chassis, but you still have to buy the electronics to make it go fast. How to disassemble an XO-1 in less than a second (with glorious slow-mo replay):
  5. Yes, the three-hole 1 mm pistons provided a little more damping than the one-hole 1.5 mm piston. That might sound counterintuitive given the hole areas (about 50 pct more area for the three hole setup), but the TRF-type pistons sealed against the CVA bodies better and the 1 mm holes pack up sooner than the 1.5 mm hole. Anyhow, I remember building them and thinking how they felt more damped in hand, and how the chassis showed good damping in a kitchen counter drop test. I'd love to have a shock dyno someday to generate numbers. I can measure spring constants pretty well, but I don't have a way to measure force vs. velocity.
  6. I think I found the same thing as you; my measurements and change to TRF-style pistons are documented here: In my case I had some spare pistons lying around and they fit very nicely in the on-road CVA bodies. I haven't tried this with the taller off-road CVA bodies.
  7. I did a comparison between TT01 and TT02 chassis here:
  8. Agree with topforcein. If you have the D9 parts then head down to the local hardware store and source some M3x10 or M3x12 screws and some M3 washers. If you don't have the D9 parts then add some M3 nylon lock nuts to the purchase. If you want the "official Tamiya" parts, then hit up eBay using the part numbers from the manual here.
  9. It's worth the $311 USD (including shipping) it takes to buy a Rock Socker from RCMart; it's not worth the $500 USD MAP to get it from a US-based retailer. Some of the latest "builder's kits" available from other brands are the way to go right now. You're going to want different tires, different wheels, different springs and shocks, hardened prop shafts and axles anyhow. So why start with a kit where only half the parts will be used? Just build it the way you like starting with one of these stripped-down builder's kits.
  10. Not a silly thing at all! Take a look at all the thoughts Nic Case put into his 202 mph car: https://www.rccaraction.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Worlds-Fastest-RC-Car.pdf
  11. This is the first competition I entered; submitting the picture seemed easy enough, but how does one vote? There aren't any instructions on how to do this. Do you view all the photos, click on one, and "add to favourites?" Or is there some other way to cast a vote? How many votes can be cast?
  12. Busy week this week... I can't remember what happened on Tuesday, but Wednesday was a combination of reviewing service manuals for our Silverado work truck, preparing a list of parts and fluids for maintenance, and then spending the evening chipping out damaged mortar from the front steps of our house. The better part of Thursday was spent mixing and applying new mortar to the front steps; then in the afternoon my wife and I went around town collecting the parts and fluids needed. Friday I touched up a few brick joints missed on Thursday and finished the parts and fluid shopping as the service manual called out some gear oil for the rear axle that isn't very common. In the end I switched from 75W85 to 75W90 as several people posted on the Silverado forums making the switch and not seeing issues. Saturday I spent the better part of the day teaching my son how to do maintenance on the truck; he uses it daily to get to his aviation maintenance classes at the local college and eventually I will sign the title over to him when he gets a job, but he needs to learn how to do these things as he may move away or I'll move away for another job. Various air filters, engine oil and filter, rear diff oil and gasket, and transmission fluid/filter/gasket were all changed. Fortunately, with the service manuals and several post-it notes serving as bookmarks, it's not that difficult to follow instructions and just use the book procedures verbatim. Today we finished the maintenance work by bleeding brakes. The pads and rotors are still good, and it isn't quite time to do coolant yet. So, it was just a little more effort to finish off the truck. It's in prime shape now for another few years. I really need to take the TT02 out for some real speed runs; I have some new batteries and they have been cycled on the charger a few times this week. There's no excuse left (other than the 94F heat!) to not try a few runs and see what the car can do. RC has been low priority lately.
  13. I like the stopwatch in the center of the radio wheel; that's an interesting way to let someone manually log lap times.
  14. That's too bad it rubs, because the overall look is perfect! Any chance to give the body another 5 mm of lift or something else to help with clearance?
  15. 42273 short dampers came standard on the TB04 PRO kit and TA06R kit from years ago. The TB04 PRO manual shows the damper body, adjuster, and cap come together as a set as part number 19804765. TRF Short Damper product page: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/option-parts/rc-trf-short-damper-4pcs/ TB04 PRO (first version) product page: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/110-4wd-shaft-drive-road-tb/rc-tb04-pro-chassis-kit/ TB04 PRO manual: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/tb04pro_t.pdf Manual page 30 damper cylinder/adjuster/cap part number: 19804765 Definitely hard to find, or special order at a minimum which will be pricey.
  16. Oh, I'm behind the times. Still have a Hero 3. Now they're up to Hero 7, I see. They were releasing these so often I couldn't justify getting new hardware every year. Thanks for the info!
  17. @Group c, what OSD are you using with that FPV camera? That's a really nice speedometer display.
  18. @stew_mac, nice run! I did a shakedown run on my TT02 last night and it hit 55 mph in about 200 feet going up a 7 degree / 12 percent incline (the street in front of my house). This is with an unmodified gearbox/gear cover. I need a longer, flatter street and a newer battery to see what it can really do in its current configuration.
  19. More of a psychological victory than a physical victory today, I replaced a foundation vent that a squirrel had chewed nearly five years ago. We had this crazy squirrel that was chewing through the vent, eating the BBQ grill cover, eating gutter guards, etc. until I trapped him and relocated him 10 miles away. He was quite the bully and would chase the other squirrels away; once he was gone the others started coming into the yard and they've not created any problems. The BBQ grill cover and gutter guards had been addressed some time ago, but I wasn't very motivated to work on the foundation vent because it involved chipping out some mortar and dealing with some features that are sandwiched between the foundation bricks and house framing. Anyhow, here's what a crazy squirrel can do to a foundation vent as he tries to store acorns in the autumn. Fortunately the metal screen stopped him; then I had a full-size aluminum plate covering the whole vent for the past five years. The job was straightforward enough and only took a few hours. I have an air compressor and air chisel from 20 years ago that I used to install foundation vents in another house; it's hard to believe so much time has passed since then! The chisel made quick work of the mortar, and much to my delight one of the top mounting ears was actually loose, so it was easy to pivot the vent back and forth and work the other ear out of the brick and wood framing. Installing the new vent required minimally enlarging the tight slot for that one ear and then tapping the vent into position with a hammer. Once it was in place it was just a matter of mixing some mortar and using some trowels to apply it and smooth it. The top ears are captured in the bricks and framing; the lower lip of the vent is sandwiched between exterior and interior mortar, just like the others. New vent; some of that residue on the vent is from spraying water on the mortar periodically while it cures. I'm sure it'll wash off in the rain over time. It was definitely nice to get this off the honey-do list and off my mind. There are some brick steps on our front porch that have some mortar missing from winter weather damage; re-pointing those bricks may be the next project so I can use up the mortar mix purchased for the foundation vent.
  20. I figured out how to make an adjustable rear toe setup for the TT02. As most of you know, the base-level TT02 comes with zero rear toe and it takes hopup parts (whether Tamiya or third party) to introduce some level of fixed rear toe-in for extra stability. For not much more than the usual blue aluminum parts, I bought extra A, B, and P parts and used some M3x16 set screws, ball nuts, and 50875 adjusters to make it adjustable instead. One improvement beyond this would be to source some M3x16 turnbuckles and trim 1-2 mm off each adjuster so the rear toe is infinitely adjustable. With using extra front suspension parts in the rear and dialing in a degree or two of toe-in, the wheelbase didn't change -- it's still 257 mm. To deal with suspension slop I used the tape method outlined in my "you can fix anything with tape and shims" thread. One improvement that made slipping the suspension ball over the kingpin tape easier was to use a body reamer to create a small initial taper inside one side of the suspension ball. I'm pretty pleased with the result and can definitely demonstrate it's feasible. This, along with some shims/spacers, opens the door to playing with reactive toe like some of the more expensive chassis offer (e.g., Awesomatix). Rear toe-in close-up: Overall chassis with a little front toe-out and a little rear toe-in:
  21. Different application than racing, I think. I was doing some speed runs with my TRF801XT a year or two ago, and the center diff was problematic as it kept sending a lot of power to the lightly loaded front tires under hard acceleration. They were spinning and wearing the tread out on asphalt more quickly than the rear tires were. When I locked the center diff that completely changed everything. Hard launches now sent power to the rear with grip. The downside is I forgot about locking the diff, and when driving the truck recently it had terrible understeer. With the center diff active, it was way more maneuverable. It's about time 1/10 4WD adoped the center diff!
  22. Yes, that's right. I just used household 3M Scotch brand clear tape like what you use for gift wrapping or sealing an envelope. Check the thickness of your tape before using it; as mentioned above mine is 0.05 mm and that is thin enough for quite a few applications. Also, if one full layer around a screw is too much and you feel some binding, try one layer going only half way around the screw. The fitting/testing process took time, but the results are there. I don't know what the longevity/durability of the tape will be, but it is pretty smooth and so are the holes in the ABS plastics. There's a lot of surface area to spread wear. If necessary the tape could always be replaced. Maybe I'll track drive time on this chassis and take some wear measurements in the future.
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