• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. speedy_w_beans

    Where are all the Tamiya parts?

    I tend to build more on-road models than anything else; in the USA I like TQ RC Racing as they have live inventory and ship very quickly. Amain Hobbies is an option as well. If I don't mind waiting then I'll check Stellamodels and RC Mart. If TQ, Amain, Stella, and RC Mart don't have it, then my next stop is eBay. Tamiya USA and Tower Hobbies are among the last places I'll go for Tamiya parts for a number of reasons -- pricing, delays in shipping, limited selection, broken payment options, etc. I have had good experiences with RPP Hobby, but they are more focused on off-road, scalers, crawlers, buggies, etc. Of course, I have no idea which of these retailers warehouse and ship on "Planet X!"
  2. The crowd was clear in the voting thread for builds (here); while it wanted to see a Lancia Stratos first, there were a few votes for a custom MAN TGS based on the Team Hahn racing truck. And so it shall happen! I suppose it started innocently enough... Eight years ago I built a pair of TT01R Type E chassis for my son and myself. His had a Schnitzer BMW M3 Sport Evo shell; mine was a Cusco Dunlop Impreza. As a newcomer to the hobby I bought a few extra spare parts to keep on hand, then Tamiya USA had some clearance pricing on certain TT01 and TT01R metal bags, then I discovered 3Racing hopups, and then RCMart had a full Yeah Racing hopup set for half price and free shipping, and well, it wasn't long before I had a healthy lifetime supply of TT01 parts. I'm sure some of you can relate, but for a different chassis. With the release of the Team Hahn Racing Truck I was pretty excited to see something different from Tamiya. The chassis might be a plain TT01E, but the star of the kit is really the body, wheels, and tires. I originally planned to build the Team Hahn kit with the Yeah Racing full hopup set, but for the past few days I've been studying the manual and digging through old boxes to see what I actually have. Bottom line, it looks like I might end up with two TT01s. The first will be a resurrected TT01R Type E with potentially some chassis modifications and a custom paint job on the Team Hahn shell. The second will probably be the plain TT01E chassis from the Team Hahn kit, upgraded with the Yeah Racing set, and topped with a finished R34 Nismo Z-Tune shell. Bonus, it's a 2-for-1! First things first, it's time for an inventory to figure out exactly what we have. Goal: Let's use up these parts! There's no point in storing this stuff for another 8 years!
  3. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's 2-for-1 TT01E R34 GTR and MAN TGS Build Thread

    Thanks for the kind comments. The wipers were drawn in CAD, 3D printed, sanded, primed, painted, and attached to the windshield with double-sided tape. The mesh was also 3D printed and sandwiched between the lower body and the front cab and lower fascia.
  4. The planetary gear arrangement in the transmission is pretty interesting; I didn't realize that was part of the model. My CR01 has a similar planetary gear setup; I wonder if the plastic gears are the same?
  5. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's 2-for-1 TT01E R34 GTR and MAN TGS Build Thread

    Yep, I just installed it this time... Small updates: Made some wiper blades Used the kit mirrors Made and installed some mesh in the grills Cut the body posts Dulled the fifth wheel More soon...
  6. speedy_w_beans

    MST CFX build

    Wow, the drivetrain looks pretty serious on this chassis. It looks great with those metal gears and beefy axles!
  7. speedy_w_beans

    Random hand waving: TB05 could be new DB03?

    In my last post I took somewhat of an analytical view of Tamiya's off-road program and a potential DB03. If I reflect on it more emotionally, then yeah, I'd love to see a DB03! My own personal path through 4WD buggies was: DF03 Dark Impact DB01 Durga DB01R (x2) OFNA NEXX8 1/8 e-buggy TRF801XT 1/8 truggy w/ e-conversion The thing that struck me about the DF03 was how nimble it seemed compared to the DB01; I'm only guessing the DF03's shorter wheelbase and central battery/motor layout helped provide that sensation. However, the DB01 was more durable with better plastics and a forgiving belt drivetrain. With that said, if someone took a TB03 (or TB05) chassis, put TRF502X diffs in it (or TB04 gear diffs with TA06 metal gears), used DB01 arms and uprights, and 3D-printed or CNC-milled appropriate damper stays I'd be very interested in that. What I'd hope for is some of that nimble feeling the DF03 provided but without its shortcomings (layshaft gear, rear diff, chipped diff joints, self-tapping screws). Maybe another candidate is a TA06 chassis with its rear gearbox / gear diff and belt-fed front gear diff. With shorty LiPos common these days, you could easily set up the front gearbox, steering, servo, LiPo, motor, and rear gearbox in a narrow line. There are a variety of Bando S3M belts available if you wanted to relocate the front pulleys and alter the wheelbase, too. That would be an interesting project to try. Maybe one of each?
  8. It's nice the Bruiser kit has you build the transmission and axles. RC4WD's Trailfinder TF2 kit comes with the transmission and axles already built; I think that subtracts some of the fun in building these types of vehicles. If you've ever built a medium or large Lego Technics kit (or for us old guys, the preceding Expert Builder series), then a lot of the fun came from building the mechanisms and just handling them and playing with them independently. The differentials in this build are pretty interesting since they don't use the typical bevel gears. I'm looking forward to seeing how the transmission goes together.
  9. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Tires, tires, and tires for my 312T3 and P34 so they match my Lotus 79 and WR1. Also, finally! This will go with my Nissan GTR LM Nismo.
  10. speedy_w_beans

    Random hand waving: TB05 could be new DB03?

    Is there any active TRF development on 2WD/4WD buggies? I haven't seen anything new in ages. The DN/DB families were essentially lower-spec versions of TRF designs: TRF201 --> DN01 TRF501x --> DB01 TRF502x --> DB02 TRF503 --> DB01RRR (at least in terms of new belts and diffs) I think it would be very difficult for Tamiya to justify anything new in the DN/DB families given the lack of TRF designs (and supporting research) to feed them. My feeling is Tamiya is so far out of touch with current track conditions that releasing a new DN/DB design just to release one means it will have an instant disadvantage racing against everything else. They need an active TRF off-road program for starters. At least in the case of the on-road TRF41x series you can see some of those geometries and designs trickling down to TA and TB chassis still. There's still a clear research/design TRF/trickle down path to these mid-range models.
  11. Looks nice. I can see why so many people admire the Bruiser given all that metal in it's construction.
  12. Enjoy the build and take your time with it; there's plenty of winter left where you live!
  13. speedy_w_beans


    Is that part of a shoe lace on your door panel? You have a good eye for repurposing stuff in your model.
  14. speedy_w_beans

    Which gear grease?

    An old grease thread that might be useful: lubrication confusion.
  15. speedy_w_beans

    Juls’s DB01 vs DB02 dual build thread

    Just starting to catch up with this thread again... Lots of great photos and descriptions. One thing I don't get is the remarks about DB01 ball diffs or ball diffs in general. I built a base-spec Durga years ago and ran a good 20-25 packs through it before rebuilding the diffs. This was on tarmac, slipper clutch, 4200kV motor, kit tires and wheels. I've never melted a DB01 pulley. I know some people have from running their diffs too loose, and there's no denying ball diffs require more care in construction and maintenance, but they tend to be lighter than gear diffs and have a little bit of natural give/slip protecting the drivetrain overall. In fact, people who have run gear diffs in their DB01s have found it useful to run the double slipper to isolate the front and rear drivetrains from each other preventing shock loads from damaging center pulleys. I just saw a gear diff for a pan car recently and had to shake my head a little. Why add extra rotating mass to such a light and simple car? The build thread is great and I'm enjoying seeing both cars, especially the DB02, in detail. I just wanted to voice an opinion that ball diffs are quite good in general, and that I don't fully agree the DB01 ball diffs are all that bad.
  16. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's 2-for-1 TT01E R34 GTR and MAN TGS Build Thread

    A little more progress on the MAN TGS to report... Made trim for the front and side windows. Copied and cut the door handles and front corners in black vinyl. Used some ABC Hobby fine line tape on the main cab panel lines. Copied the MAN logo and grill trim, and cut it in chrome vinyl instead of using the printed decals. Cut out two more openings in the lower fascia so all three are exposed. Copied and cut the side vent decals in black vinyl. Temporarily taped the lower fascia to the main cab just to test overall assembly. Installed the fifth wheel and rear bumper. Copied and cut bezels for the rear lights. Made a duplicate of the front MAN logo and used it on the rear bumper. Next steps: Mesh material for the front openings Wiper blades Mirrors Steps Lighting Sun shade Side exhaust pipe Dull the fifth wheel finish Cut body posts Detail powertrain Detail rear cab wall Maybe a few more graphics embellishments
  17. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Sorry to hear that! I went through the same thing a month ago. Ultimately the other person's insurance paid me, and there's still a BOLO on the other person for a hit-and-run.
  18. speedy_w_beans

    M-08 predictions?

    TB04 actually was released with three bodies (La Ferrari, Eneos Sustina, and NSX Concept), but I agree with you in principle. TB05, TA07, and M07 have not been released with bodies so far. They seem to be moving away from releasing mid-level kits with bodies for on-road cars.
  19. speedy_w_beans

    Considering a non-Tamiya for the collection

    I've tried a few other brands and models; here are my thoughts: - 3Racing (Sakura D3 and Sakura D4 drift chassis): The initial price is relatively inexpensive, but typically upgrades are required to fix small issues -- add another 30-50% to the kit price. With the D3 I needed to add center and rear aluminum belt tensioners, a better steering rack, and optional Bando belts. Once finished, I couldn't even install a full-size hardcase LiPo to run the car because the rigid side hoops and position of the upper deck forced the battery to come in at an angle. In the end I had to cut the side hoops off the chassis to be able to slip in a LiPo from the side. The D4 was a step up with most of these issues corrected. The one odd thing I found with the D4 was the plastic threaded shock bodies were slightly undersized and the threaded ride height collar would skip and lose its setting. I had to install leftover Tamiya CVA clips above the threaded collars so they would hold position. Very weird. I've been reading other build threads and comments on the latest FGX 2018 EVO F1 chassis, and it sounds like the front camber/caster block is weak; lightly tapping the boards on a track will cause that block to break and then the suspension just dangles. Overall impression: Their plastics leave something to be desired, but the designs have been more exciting lately with their 2K18 Advance, Mini MG Evo, and M4 releases. The starting prices are attractive at times, but expect to spend something to fix basic issues here and there. - Associated (B4 Factory Team): For an old-school 2WD rear-motor buggy this is the gold standard for me. When building the kit I had one part with quality control problems (slipper layshaft and internal gear - sawtooth shaped), but a replacement part was perfect. The slipper has a full range of adjustment; the ball diff is robust even with a 5000kV brushless system installed. All the plastics were carbon-reinforced and threaded easily with the included fasteners. Overall the build experience is very good, driving it is pleasant, and it is durable. Associated has a good following in the USA so it's likely one will find other racers with the same buggy and can swap setting information with each other. I can't comment on the B4, B8, RC12, F1, or TC families. Overall impression: Associated's racing products look as good as ever, but they are becoming more specialized due to changes in track surfaces both off-road and on-road. I'm suspicious of some of the less-expensive RTR products because I'm only guessing they're rebranded Thunder Tiger products (Thunder Tiger owns Associated). - HPI (Blitz ESE Pro and Wheely King): I haven't looked into short course trucks in years, but when they were getting a lot of press I read a lot of reviews about Associated SC10, HPI Blitz, Kyosho Ultima SC, and others. In the end I opted for the Blitz ESE Pro as a compromise truck between track performance and basher durability. During assembly I had one steering bellcrank fastener strip, but I think that was my fault and it drove me to replace my 2 mm hex driver. Overall the build was good, and the parts were high quality. My main complaint with the Blitz was the included MIP ball diff was weak. Given MIP's reputation this surprised me, and I bought a complete diff kit to try a second time. It still barked and went gritty pretty quickly, so I swapped in an Associated SC10 gear diff. Since then the drivetrain has been perfect. It's a fun truck to drive, durable, and a good build with the exception of the diff. The Wheely King was purchased as a RTR; I later extended the wheelbase with HPI's crawler conversion set. The plastics are on the soft side, but this helps it absorb impacts. It's been a durable truck. At this point, about 7 years after purchase, I find the O-rings in the dampers are possibly swelling as the shafts are sticking. It takes some movement to free up the dampers again. I have a Savage XS SS kit still NIB, but most build threads I've read suggest it's a pretty good truck. Overall impression: I like HPI based on these products (and the numerous on-road bodies I bought); I wish they were as financially stable and prevalent as they used to be. I'd buy more HPI product if parts support was better and I had a sense they would be around longer. - OFNA/Hong Nor (NEXX8 and JL10e): OFNA used to sell Hong Nor and Hobao product, but OFNA doesn't exist anymore. Hong Nor disappeared as well, but they reappeared last year and are working on their distribution network. The NEXX8 was my first 1/8 e-buggy, and I liked it. It came as an 80% roller, but I tore it down and inspected everything. The diffs needed more oil, but overall the car was in good shape. I liked the narrow chassis design and dual 2S LiPo pack arrangement; it was reasonably balanced from side to side. Durability was very good; I bashed it a lot and the straight-cut pinion and ring gears for the diffs held up very well. The plastic spur gear also held up well. No complaints about this buggy at all. The JL10e shaft-drive touring car chassis also shipped as an 80% roller, but had some minor issues. The first thing to do before even running it is rebuild the ball diffs with better thrust bearings. The dampers have more friction than normal. The steering bridge was a little close to the front pilot shaft and would rub; it needed adjustment to clear the pilot shaft joint cup. The battery tray design was very inconvenient. I bought an Exotek graphite conversion kit on closeout, and that combined with some hex screws and better dampers made it a very nice touring chassis. Overall impression: I'd buy a Hong Nor 1/8 again; the first one was that good. As far as touring cars go, I would not buy another JL10e as 3Racing's Sakura XI Sport has clearly surpassed it. - RJ Speed (Sport 3.2 and Digger): These are really basic FRP pan car designs that show their design age -- this is basically resurrected BoLink product. The quality of the materials is fine; the assembly process goes very quickly. They're pretty durable thanks to the simple design and materials. Two things kind of bugged me; first, these only run foam tires or capped foam tires. If you wanted to try touring tires it would require designing your own conversion. Second, the body posts are plastic hex bolts. This means the body post holes are pretty large. Suspension movement is minimal, like most pan cars. Realistically the Sport 3.2, LTO, and Legends are best for spec-class racing on carpet. The Digger was never a serious car; it was meant for goofy bashing. The dragsters and sprint car kits are pretty specialized. Overall impression: They're a niche brand with some entry-level products. Materials and design are fine. Application are limited to specific settings, not general street bashing. Given I live in the USA and have access to certain retailers more easily than others, if Tamiya disappeared tomorrow I'd still get my RC fix through other brands as follows: Associated: 2WD and 4WD buggies, 1/8 e-buggy and truggy (they win races) Axial and RC4WD: trail trucks, crawlers, monster trucks (installed fan base = lots of custom parts) CRC: pan cars and F1 (they win races) 3Racing: touring, drift, and Mini chassis (most improved/interesting in the last 5 years?) There are definitely other brands that may be more local to you (ala Serpent, Schumacher, etc.). I have no sense of benefit/cost with these brands, so no comment.
  20. speedy_w_beans

    New to this group

    As Frankie says, "Welcome to the Pleasuredome!" "While criticized at the time of release and afterward for being a song that glorifies debauchery, the lyrics (and video) make clear that the point of the song, just as Coleridge's poem, is about the dangers of this kind of lifestyle." -- Source
  21. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiya Spray-Works. Anybody using one of these?

    The cracked O-ring you show looks like a typical Tamiya part; take a look at this Japanese O-ring size chart. About half way down is a series of P-3, P-4, P-5, etc. O-rings with dimensions. You might be able to take some measurements of that old O-ring and match it up to a new P-something part just based on dimensions. A lot of the O-Rings used in CVA dampers are P-3 type parts. Also, maybe a local supply company has O-rings that are not JIS but are close enough for something like that paint bottle. JIS O-Ring Size Chart
  22. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiya Spray-Works. Anybody using one of these?

    Hi Erich, Check out Don's Airbrush Tips. While he doesn't cover your Spray Works setup specifically, you may find some useful information there to help you with cleaning and repair. In particular, he has some comments about ammonia-based cleaners reacting with the brass underneath the chrome plating. He also has some thoughts on straightening bent needles. You may need to replace most of the O-rings in this airbrush given its age and neglect. He also has a few pages on operating concepts (how air and paint mix) and safety. All of his writings should give you some ideas on how to restore this to excellent working order.
  23. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I did some experimenting with a new piece of software today to see if I can use it to make custom driver heads in the future. I'm encouraged by the results and plan to do another test soon! The name of the software is Meshroom; what it does is generate a 3D model from a sequence of photographs you take of a physical object. As a simple first test I took a cardinal figurine from my wife's curio and shot 33 photos at different angles and elevations outside. After dropping the photos into the software, I kept the default settings and clicked "Start." 75 minutes later I had a full 3D mesh with texture mapped onto it; this was running on a Core i7 with NVIDIA GPU / CUDA. In the image of Meshroom below, the left pane has my 33 photos in it. The center pane has the current image shown. The right pane has the generated 3D mesh and texture map; the program actually generated a mesh including the cardinal and the picnic table. The bottom pane shows the process the program takes to make the model from the photos. In general it looks for key features from each photo, matches those features, generates points in space, makes a mesh, filters it, and covers that mesh with a color texture derived from the original photos. With all the processing complete I loaded the resulting file into FreeCAD; it includes a workbench for trimming meshes. In this case I removed the picnic table data around the base of the figurine. Then I exported a .STL file from FreeCAD and loaded it into Slic3r to prep a gcode printer file... And finally printed a smaller copy of the figurine! I shot it with a quick blast of automotive filler primer because glossy black filament hides surface features. Close up: So, this first try worked very well and I immediately asked my son if I could photograph his head to make a custom driver figure of him. I might put him in a drift car or a F1 car down the road. I might also see if I can convince my wife and daughter to be photographed as well; then I'll do a drift minivan with all four of us in it! Imagine our heads attached to jumpsuit torsos using pen springs, our heads bobbing around as the drift van skids around cones!
  24. speedy_w_beans

    Looking at getting my first airbrush

    I really like what this person has to say about airbrushes. He's done quite a bit of testing and has many good tips about everything related to airbrushes. Don's Airbrush Tips
  25. speedy_w_beans

    Sleeved damper discs

    Hi Collin, can you tell us a little more about your dampers? Which model is this? Are these the kit-stock dampers that came with the model?