Jump to content

speedy_w_beans

Members
  • Content Count

    3864
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. I'm curious to hear others' experiences using machine screws in place of self-tapping screws in models they use regularly and run hard. I used the self-tapping screws included in the DF03 and DT02 kits I bought when getting into the hobby and had some problems with the screws loosening after extended driving sessions on bumpy dirt. In particular, the self-tappers holding the gearboxes to the chassis tubs loosened the most. There didn't seem to be any easy way to keep them in, so I was tightening them after every run. Later I started substituting machine screws for self-tapping screws in TT01E and M-chassis builds, and I liked how they went in and provided a definite "stop" when they were fully inserted. They also didn't seem to loosen during use, but on-road cars see different usage than off-road cars. Most of the mid-grade kits like DN, DB, TA, TB, FF, and CR chassis include machine screws by default, but the plastics are also nylon instead of ABS or polycarbonate. Over the years there has been some debate about using machine screws vs. self-tapping screws, and there has been some distinction made between thread-forming and thread-cutting taps. The engineering perspective has been that self-tapping screws are designed for softer materials with larger, coarser threads, and then there's been the empirical perspective that machine screws are better since they don't seem to back out. The argument seems to be that machine screws in soft materials run the risk of stripping out. I don't think the debate has ever really been settled with some apples-to-apples comparison and some hard driving. Most people agree a thread-forming tap is the right tap since it doesn't leave a hole too loose for the fastener. So, has anybody built a new off-road kit that has ABS or polycarbonate chassis parts, replaced the self-tapping screws with machine screws, and then driven it hard? I mean something like 30-50 battery packs with a few cycles of cleaning and maintenance thrown in? Do the machine screws ever loosen and strip out like self-tappers? Most of my models are on-road, so I can't comment directly. The few TTs and Ms where I did this seem to be fine, but they don't see the bumps and shocks of an off-road model.
  2. Up for sale is a Duratrax Onyx 245 I bought years ago when I was first getting into the hobby. Key features: AC or DC powered Dual outputs, two chargers in one Supports NiCd, NiMH, LiFe, and LiPo batteries Includes Tamiya, Dean's, and Traxxas(?) charge leads, as well as two types of balance boards for LiPos I used this a lot for NiMH stick packs when I had 3000 mAh and 4200 mAh packs. I did use it for awhile for LiPos, and it does balance charge them, but the charger is lacking discharge and storage charge modes. I used to charge a LiPo, drive the car, and then balance charge it up to 7.6 V and stop the charger there to make up for it. Close enough for storage purposes. I just plugged it in and it still powers up fine. You can set the current to 0.8 A, 1.5 A, 3.0 A, and 5.0 A on each channel. It accepts 2S and 3S Lipos as well as 6-cell and 7-cell NiMH/NiCd batteries. The manual can be viewed here: http://manuals.hobbico.com/dtx/dtxp4245-manual-v2.pdf Price is $40 USD, offered as shown, Paypal accepted, shipping extra.
  3. Here's where my head was at a year ago... This is kind of my end target, although the whole operations/business side of things isn't very appealing to me. I just love tinkering and building things. If I could implement all of this for myself as a hobbyist, I'd be extremely happy. I think if you click on the image it'll enlarge. All the software is open-source, so that's a huge help. It takes time to learn and get proficient at all these packages. The 3D printer, CNC engraver, laser printer, and vinyl cutter, and (future) 3D scanner would be the most expensive and useful items. A heat gun, scissors, cutter, stapler, and impulse sealer is small potatoes in comparison. Other things that would take some money and space include an anodizer, resin dispenser, and vacuum former, but those are way off in the future if ever. There's still plenty to learn and try with the other machinery first. My short term goals are to get a little more proficient with what I have, and maybe make a few machine upgrades for extra capacity or handling different materials.
  4. That's where I see myself going. Basically large-scale "models suitable for radio control." Less emphasis on speed/power/tech and more on modeling. I've been going through several phases: Building and driving lots of chassis types (10 years ago) Zeroing in on some favorite genres (5 years ago) Modifying base kits with some custom parts and graphics (the last few years) Eventually, doing a complete design and fabrication just for the fun of it (somewhere in the future) Still on step 3 at this point... I've been a big computer nerd since the early 80s and the amount of useful open-source software out there is amazing for mechanical/electrical/software engineering and product design. That software and the machines people are creating in the Maker movement really unlock some capabilities for hobbyists like us.
  5. What do you plan on making? I've zeroed in on four machines that cover a bit: 3D printer: It's been really helpful for making cosmetic parts and a few functional parts. The results aren't as nice as an injection-molded part, but with some putty, sanding, primer, and flat paint things don't look half bad. Examples in my showroom: RM01 Lancia Stratos, F103GT GTR Nismo, Sport 3.2 Hot Wheel. I paid $119 for a simple Tronxy X1 printer. A mini-CNC engraver, one of those Chinese 3018 models at a minimum. I bought one for $129, built it, and did some testing with a gcode sending program, but I haven't made the opportunity to do something meaningful with it yet. My main interest is in cutting 2 or 2.5 mm FRP or carbon fiber for chassis plates and damper stays. I don't expect to cut aluminum or steel, or make a vacuum-forming buck, or plastic mold, etc. I just want to be able to cut some smaller sheet materials. A vinyl cutter. My wife had some input on this and wanted something capable of cutting fabric shapes for her quilting. We ended up with a Cricut Maker. I personally think it's too expensive for what it is, and the cloud-based software is not good for much other than sending designs to the cutter. But, I used it for my Sport 3.2 Hot Wheel for making paint masks, window trim, the fuel filler hatches, and the Hot Wheels logos. There are other future projects in mind where some complex paint masking will be simplified by cutting it in vinyl instead of masking it manually. A color laser printer. I have a HP color laser printer that is also compatible with a Ghost White cartridge. It's a two-step process, but it's possible to run some clear self-adhesive vinyl through the printer and selectively deposit a layer of white first, then on the second pass print the color graphics on the white. I'm still working with this to dial it in a little bit more, but Scollin's Christmas Lunch Box has custom decals on it I made with the laser printer. I think if I can cut some structural plates, print plastic parts, make paint masks and vinyl graphics, and create stickers then that covers a lot of what I want to do. One last piece of the puzzle I'm looking into is a budget 3D scanner to digitize and enlarge surfaces. There are some 1/24 static models I'd love to enlarge and turn into 1/12 or 1/10 RCs someday, but that's somewhere in the vague future. The machinery costs are not that bad if you think of it in terms of buying 3-4 more kits... And how many kits have we all gone through?
  6. You're next in line if the person I'm speaking with now chooses not to complete the purchase.
  7. ^^ You were reading my mind!!
  8. Calling @MadInventor, calling @MadInventor!!!
  9. I wouldn't be so sure about that... Not trying to be a Debbie Downer, just realistic. If Japan's home economy has shrunk by 28% annualized, it doesn't seem like plastic models and RC cars would be a high priority for people. Japan's Economy Shrinks at Record Pace as Pandemic Hits Spending Resurgence of covid-19 in Japan Experts Worry There's a More Infectious COVID Mutation Spreading in Malaysia and the Philippines I suspect Tamiya USA (the local agent) gets its inventory via boat shipments and then transfers to Horizon Hobby (the distributor and owners of Tower Hobbies) via rail or truck. Let's call it 33-41 days normally, but shipping has been thrown into chaos and is slowly recovering... Shipping Time from Japan to USA Shipping lines adopt desperate measures as pandemic disrupts operations Is it production? Is it shipping? Maybe it's both. Regardless, the virus has impacted just about everybody. When ordering from Hong Kong, they are retailing from a location much closer to the factory, and they are shipping via air freight.
  10. What I worry about next is the string of holidays and family gatherings normally associated with them. For the next five months we have something each month, and each one promotes people gathering together (Labor Day, Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Years).
  11. If you live in the USA, go to Google News and search on "school covid". It's looking like total chaos out there as the school year begins.
  12. @Shodog after 18 years and nearly 8200 posts, you're quite the veteran on this site!
  13. Makes me think of Grave Digger with the purple and green combination... This would be a cool companion to that truck. Synonyms for grave digger include undertaker, black-master, and death-hunter.
  14. Per the USPS calculator, a 24" x 13" x 8" box weighing 10 lbs and insured for $150 will cost $102.60 to ship to Australia from the USA. If you think of it in terms of total cost ($250) vs. other 1/8 scale buggy options, maybe it's not that bad...
  15. Grew up poor; no money for RC... Went to college extremely focused on grades and work; no time or money for RC... Got married and started a family; definitely no time or money for RC!! Finally my son was turning 10 and he loved building Legos, it felt like the right moment for the two of us to try something together. Bought a DF03 Dark Impact and the Tower Hobbies starter package (NiMH battery, basic charger, Futaba 2PL AM transmitter w/ S3003 servo, Duratrax Intellispeed ESC) for about $250. We built it, drove it, crashed it, fixed it, took it to the track, upgraded it, and finally retired it. He lost interest but got me hooked!! He has a fully rebuilt Dark Impact sitting on the shelf in his bedroom, along with a TT01E we modified for rally. Down the rabbit hole I went... Good times!
  16. For sale is my NIB TRF801X 1/8 scale buggy kit. This is the successor to Tamiya's TRF801Xt truggy kit and features several improvements in design and materials. Originally a nitro buggy kit, it is possible to convert these to electric with a third-party motor mount and a battery tray (see rc-monster.com). In terms of build experience and kit quality, please refer to my TRF801Xt build thread on the forum (https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/71892-speedys-trf801xt-build-thread/); everything is heavy-duty and ready for hard driving! There is one minor point I discovered while inspecting this kit prior to sale; the kit manual is missing pages. This looks like a printing/duplication error from the factory. I've downloaded and printed the complete manual so all instructions are included. The kit is presented as shown, price is $150 USD, shipping is extra, payment is accepted by PayPal.
  17. It's basically a touring car chassis, so it'll be as easy to drive as a TT, TA, or TB. Same wheelbase (257 mm) and width (190 mm), same clearance with the pavement. I don't really have much of an opinion on it. It's reminiscent of Tamiya's F201 (4WD, inboard suspension at both ends) but touring-size instead of F1-size. Looked like all the gearboxes were sealed; that's good. Looks like the front and rear are symmetrical; even the rear has steering links. Seems like there are opportunities to play with the suspension more -- different caster, camber, toe, anti-squat, anti-dive, reactive caster, reactive rear steering, etc with various shims and inserts. On the other hand, I think I counted ~40 ball connectors related to suspension and steering in this design, and I'm wondering how much slop there will be between all those connectors and adjuster cups. It has the potential to be really awesome or really terrible depending how much slop the suspension has. I almost wish the adjusters had set screws to let you set the gap between the adjuster and ball connector and dial it in perfectly. Not sure how well all the different brands of electronics will fit in this chassis... Personally I'm going to sit it out for some time and read others' build experiences first. Conceptually it's cool, but are there too many tradeoffs in the design?
  18. No problem. Just PM me an address and I'll get you a shipping quote.
  19. For sale is my HPI Wheely King. This started as a RTR and I used HPI's Crawler Conversion set to extend the wheelbase, prop shafts, and steering linkages to make a longer truck. Additional changes include an RJ Speed Dodge Power Wagon shell, Traxxas Slash front bumper, Integy LED headlights, and Tamiya TLU-01 LED controller. This comes complete including the motor, ESC, servo, radio receiver and transmitter (2.4 GHz). You just need to add batteries to get it going. I've run this about 30 minutes tops to check it out and play with it. As shown, $225 USD, shipping extra, PayPal accepted.
  20. For sale is my 58518 Super Clod Buster. This has been built completely stock, except the bushings have been replaced with ball bearings. It's been run about 3-5 minutes to check it out. Comes with the original motors and ESC, as well as a center steering servo. As shown, $200 USD, shipping extra, PayPal accepted.
×
×
  • Create New...