Jump to content

speedy_w_beans

Members
  • Content Count

    3864
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. There seems to be some information here on the IPS community site... http://community.inv...-in-ie10-r38650 Is this something that could be fixed on this site?
  2. Yes, I've done a fresh boot on the laptop, started IE10, and gone directly to the forum without logging into the main site. I'm writing this now on a different machine running IE9, and there are no problems with the "Enter" key at all. Win7/IE9 -- ok Win7/Chrome -- ok Win7/IE10 -- not ok for some reason
  3. Is anybody else having a problem with their "Enter" key when replying to threads in IE10? It's pretty strange -- when entering text to reply to a thread in IE10, the Enter key does nothing. However, when entering browser addresses, Google searches, etc. "Enter" works just fine. I did have some system updates over the weekend and I think IE9 was upgraded to IE10; it seems like the "Enter" key broke suddenly. I just downloaded Chrome now and it seems to be working fine with this IP.Board site software. Are there any known compatibility issues with IE10 and IP.Board? Thanks!
  4. Give these a shot to start... www.rcdriver.com www.rccaraction.com Edit: Grastens beat me to it!
  5. I saw someone make a key fob out of the con rod and piston once...
  6. I was cleaning up my computer and cameras' storage, and found most of my original photos... Here's a look back at previous projects. I've sold some of these and kept some... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05fhl5mohf8
  7. Observations from reading the manual: In step 4/5, I like how the front pinion shaft has spaced out the bearings. In the TT01 the bearings are very close to each other, which gives the shaft a lot of runout. I'm still very curious about the prop shaft and if it will be better than the TT01 prop shaft. In step 6, the diffs now have 4 spider gears instead of 3... Unfortunately, the gears are now plastic instead of metal... I like the new diff cover in step 7; the cover is keyed to the tub and doesn't have as dependent a relationship with the suspension as the TT01 diff cover. The tub is flat for LiPo batteries now. In step 11 the motor mount now supports 10 different pinion gears with the same 70T spur; the motor can be mounted to either side of the mount and that determines which of the 2 ranges of pinions can be used. That's a nice improvement over the TT01 as it doesn't require changing the spur. Comparing the gearing ratios, though, the TT02 is definitely geared for hotter motors while the TT01 would be better suited to stock motors. If you're running 17.5T 2200kV or 13.5T 3300kV, the TT01 looks like a better choice. If you're going to run some hotter motor, then the TT02 might be the better choice. The suspension arms are disappointing in that they still have molded hinge pins. It looks like a lot of the same features with respect to outdrives, dogbones, axles, nylon bushings, screw pins, spring holders, shoulder screws, steering knuckles, and steering pivot balls. The steering links have pivot balls now instead of shoulder screws (TT01) or ball connectors (TT01R). The motor cover is separate from the pinion/spur cover, so that's nice. An open motor or different heat sinks are options. Brake disc hex hubs are now standard. The body posts have different mounting shapes. There are definitely some nice changes going from a TT01 to a TT02, but the weak point for me is the plastic diff gears.
  8. Tower has discontinued the DB01 Baldre and the DB01R chassis kit. There's still the Durga, but for how long? Makes me sad... Maybe some of the discontinuations reported earlier are trickling our way now... I have to wonder though, what will replace the DB01? Tamiya doesn't have another belt-drive 4WD buggy chassis in this price range...
  9. Finished prepping this for some fun... This was a very casual effort over the past two months shimming several parts, fixing some stripped screw holes, adjusting everything for free and smooth movement, etc. It was only yesterday and today that I finally installed the electronics...
  10. Thanks guys for the replies. Since they're not getting hot, taking a full charge, and venting properly I'll definitely keep using them. I was concerned because this was the first time I had heard any of these noises, so if it was the beginning of the end for these packs I just thought I should know.
  11. I have several 3000 mAh NiMH stick pack batteries that are about three years old. They've been used quite a few times, and even when I wasn't running cars I'd still cycle them through discharge and charge once every two months just to keep them alive. This weekend my son and I were driving outside a lot and I had about six batteries to charge. Last night I discharged them all to 5.4V; this morning I started charging them at a 1C rate. They all accepted 2900-3100 mAh. They were all warm (but not excessively hot) at the end of charging. Four of the six packs charged as usual -- they were 100% quiet. Two of the packs surprised me; as they approached peak charge one of the packs made a few very quiet popping noises, the other pack let out one or two quiet popping noises and one moderate, "psss" for a half second. Again, the temperatures of these packs were not abnormal. I have to assume these two packs were venting a little. Should I be concerned about this? I was thinking about TA-Mark's posting about a NiMH explosion he had experienced (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=68988entry481294), and thought I should ask.
  12. No, 0.6 mod is unique and not close to standard 48 pitch. http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/32pitchpinion.html#metric
  13. I've been using a set of curved embroidery scissors from the local fabric store. They're 100% metal construction and come in three different lengths/curvatures. I've cut about 25 bodies with them so far: http://www.joann.com/metal-embroidery-scissors-3pk-2-1-2-3-1-2-4-1-2-/xprd357431/ Good lighting is key. The lights over my kitchen table reflect off the shell perfectly, and I can see the cutting line by angling the shell just right. Direct light shining down on the shell helps. Work slowly, and if you're worried about errors, have the scissors' curvature pointing away from the body. You can always remove more material later, but you can't add it back. I found for wheel arches it's easiest to cut them all in a counterclockwise direction; that keeps the scissors to the outside of the shell and makes them more maneuverable. I've tried cutting in a clockwise direction around the wheel arches, but that places the scissors to the inside of the shell and there are usually corners or other features that prevent cutting in the right direction. Sanding the edges of the shells with 220 grit or higher when you're done will remove any small irregularities from cutting. Sanding is also a great opportunity to blend and smooth corners. Speaking of corners, the bottoms of the wheel arches should have small radiuses on them to not get snagged on anything. I usually cut most of the excess material off the molded shell first, then I work on the wheel arches. Then I cut all the bumpers and rocker panels. I'll cut some small radiuses at the bottoms of the wheel arches, and if it looks mostly good then it's time for sanding. Sanding helps correct small errors with blending. If you're worried about cutting, wait until you have to start masking for four or five paint colors, and then start working on applying 80-100 stickers. Some of Tamiya's shells take a lot of effort to get right. In the past I've spent more time on the shell than the chassis -- the Xanavi Nismo GTR R35 shell really stretched my patience. After doing a few of those, HPI shells started looking more attractive both in terms of purchase cost and level of effort to complete.
  14. I've been using Windows Live Movie Maker on Windows 7; it's a free Microsoft download. It works well enough for importing a bunch of videos and photos, trimming them, putting them in order, adding titles/captions/transitions, and adding background music. Exporting the final product into something usable with YouTube is easy enough. All the videos on my YouTube channel were made this way: http://www.youtube.com/user/SpeedyWBeans
  15. Your Mad Bull looks great! When you first posted about the wheels, I was kind of envious and wished I had thought of some limited edition red or gold wheels like you had. My mindset last November was to just get it done and take it to the beach, though... I hope your son really enjoys it!
  16. Celebrating warmer weather... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ag8qQiVgVJE
  17. The tip of a soldering iron should never glow red like that. Sounds like the heating element had a short in it and it was actually delivering 600W (or something like that).
  18. I missed the NC part. Maybe someone can explain the appeal of oval racing to me -- I hate NASCAR and don't see the point of driving in circles. I'm much more interested in true road courses or off road racing with a variety of features.
  19. Have you looked at the oval cars by Custom Works? Yours reminds of one of their models: http://www.customwor...0683-1231361613 Per this page, Custom Works is now located in Denver -- right where you are. It might be fun to go check them out... They might also have some recollection of Team Cobra and give you some pointers. http://www.customwor...out/about01.php Also check out RJ Speed's Outlaw, which might be an older BoLink design: http://www.rjspeed.com/kits/SprintCar/2030.html
  20. Is this what you're looking at? http://os.3racing.hk/products.php?products_key=3686 Because it looks like you can get away with steering, throttle, and a 2-position switch or pushbutton per these instructions: http://www.3racing.hk/manuals/CR01-27%20Manual.jpg Even a stock GT3C should be able to handle this. If you can find a used HPI TF-40 and receiver the transmitter has a pushbutton on it for channel 3. Or a Futaba 3PL has a 2-position slide switch for the third channel. Or if you want to get crazy with features, a Turnigy 9X has plenty of knobs and switches on it for all sorts of lighting, winch, and gearbox control...
×
×
  • Create New...