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speedy_w_beans

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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. From a USA perspective, this inflation calculator ( http://www.usinflationcalculator.com/ ) suggests a $278 kit in 1988 should cost about $533 today. That said, this calculator doesn't take into account tooling amortization, raw material cost fluctuations, increases in overhead as the company has grown, currency exchange rates, transportation costs, and a number of other detailed factors. It does seem like certain re-releases have gone up in price. The TA02T F150 Baja went up by about $40, and there was no substantial change in the kit from one release (58161) to another (58495). The Blackfoot III (58498) is the same as the Blackfoot Extreme (58312) , but it's about $40 more expensive. -Paul
  2. I've stayed stock so far. On one DB01 and one DB01R, both the rear diffs had the plates come loose after the rubber cement softened. I just cleaned everything out thoroughly, scuffed one side of the diff plates with sand paper, scuffed the plastic part that holds the diff plate, cleaned with rubbing alcohol, and glued with rubber cement a second time. Everything has been good since then. I didn't have the meltdown or bearing issues you described; I just noticed that the car was down on power. When I dragged one set of tires against the pavement while holding the other set by hand, I could feel the slip. Removing the diff covers didn't reveal any damage, but I found the rubber cement had liquified and the plates weren't really transferring torque to the joints anymore. I'm too cheap to get the TRF diff joints right now, but that would be the ultimate solution if money was no object. I'm not too keen on plastic gears in a sealed gear diff. -Paul
  3. They're close together; I use them with a DT02 Sand Viper chassis. However, HPI supplies a parts tree of adapters to make these wheels work with several models. I can rummage through my parts bin when I get home from work later today and see if these wheels will fit a Lunch Box correctly, if that would help. -Paul
  4. I have these HPI wheels (SS Monster); they work with 5x11mm bearings just fine. -Paul
  5. I like Parma's lexan Lunch Box shell. It's not necessarily "tougher," but the paint is on the inside and doesn't scuff off like the regular styrene shell. It's also lighter which helps the Lunch Box wheely more, and it helps with cornering. I haven't broken any stock body mounts with the lexan shell, either, since it flexes on impact. -Paul
  6. It looks like a spur for a pan car diff too: (This comes from a RJ Speed Sport 3.2 pan car instruction book and parts list) -Paul
  7. Just looked through the instruction manual... Relative to a Sand Viper, there are some downsides: - Plastic upper suspension arms and screw pins instead of ball connectors and threaded shafts - Ball bearings in the gear box, but only nylon bushings in the hubs - 17T pinion instead of 19T pinion - Plastic outdrives, dogbones, and axles instead of metal parts - The front damper stay brace is nothing special, it's just a few ball connectors and a threaded rod I don't think an extra $30 justifies the Nissan shell, especially since the mechanical content is downgraded from the Sand Viper. These two kits should be priced about the same. Tamiya really needs to make oil dampers and full ball bearings standard in all their kits. This friction damper and nylon bushing junk has got to go. -Paul
  8. My Sidewinder SCT 3800kV system (1410 motor) cogs just a little bit when first accelerating from a stop. Once the car is moving, even slowly, it works pretty well. I'm geared 9.58:1 and running ~90 mm diameter buggy tires on a 4WD DF02 chassis. The system has been performing very well and is keeping cool so far. If you can gear to 11.7:1 with Lunch Box tires (110 mm), that should provide comparable behavior and performance with the same system. -Paul
  9. That top spur looks like something used in a pan car -- the diff balls go in the holes and drive a pair of diff plates directly. The bottom spur looks more believable with an octagonal face for the slipper pads. I checked Kimbrough's web site, and a 316 is supposed to look like your bottom picture. Looks like you received the wrong spur in what is the correct package. Where did you buy this? Tower has the Tamiya 91T spur for about $4.69, and the Kimbrough 316 for $5.79. On the basis of correct fit and lower price, I'd get the Tamiya part. -Paul
  10. This thread might help: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=60059. -Paul
  11. For the shocks, have you tried any lighter weight oils? The stiffness of the shocks is set by a combination of piston holes and oil viscosity inside the shock body. A lighter weight oil might help out. The other thing to consider is whether or not the rear springs are too stiff. The 50520 "soft" springs are not bad, so if you have a few of those maybe try using them with the shocks along with lighter oil. As a point of reference for bearings, here are some recommendations from Tower Hobbies' site: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXD109&P=V -- 5x8mm bearing http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...SEARCH=dtxc1549 -- 5x11 bearing I've run these Duratrax Teflon-sealed bearings in my Lunch Box and they work just fine. -Paul
  12. I keep eyeing the Nitrage 5.2 in the Scratch 'N' Dent section of Tamiya USA's web site. It seems like quite a steal at $229 RTR. I've read some conflicting reports about there being a plastic gear issue in the transmission, but supposedly the replacement part is a revised design that fixes the issue. I don't know much about this vehicle personally; maybe some others who have them can chime in here... If the experiences are good, it seems like a bargain compared to an HPI Savage nitro. EDIT: No, it's not 1/10. But at the price it seems worth a look. -Paul
  13. I liked seeing the horizon disappear as you pulled some wheelies, and the doughnut starting at 2:15 was cool. I gritted my teeth a little when the 'Box finally rolled and the camera case scratched on the asphalt. I really need to try a brushless setup in my Lunch Box. Pulling wheelies at speed would be cool. -Paul
  14. Are you going to start digging out your basement? -Paul
  15. Almost all of my cars are run. Some are run more than others. Not having any experience in RC prior to two years ago, I wanted to try as many chassis types as possible to experience the pros and cons of different designs. There is no one single chassis that does it all. When we go to the beach, we bring the Lunch Boxes. When we go to the mountains, out comes a crawler or truck. When we play in the driveway or street, the touring/rally/drift cars get some use. If we go the track, the buggies and short course trucks see some use. So, it starts with trying some different chassis types, and then multiplies with trying different brands and quality levels within each category. Some vehicles are run more than others, but they all see some use depending on where we are going or what the mood of the day is. I do have a few cars that are not run very often. Usually these are models that aren't much fun, or they are models that I put so much time and energy into I don't want to risk damaging them. I have a speed run car that can go relatively fast in a straight line, but that's about it. It hasn't been run since last summer. I also have a few customized shells or custom paint jobs that I don't want to damage, because each one represents nearly 40 hours of work. A nick or a scratch would really annoy me, so they get cleaned and very gently run every now and then. -Paul
  16. I have a few cans of Pactra Aqua Wave and Pearl White reserved for a Parma '56 Nomad shell, so it's nice to see it on your shell and get another feel for how it will look. That TBR bumper looks like it means business. I wouldn't want to get hit in the ankle with it, especially since it's motivated by an EZRun 4000kV system. -Paul
  17. Something I didn't say earlier -- I check the mesh all over the spur by feel and sound, not so much by sight. I use a finger or thumb to hold the pinion steady, then I rock the spur back and forth with another finger feeling for any lash and listening for any soft clicking as the edges of the gear teeth touch each other. I do this in 6 to 8 locations around the spur, searching for the high spot or the tightest mesh. Once I have the high spot as close as possible (but not too tight), I go around the spur again and evaluate the lash by feel and sound to make sure there aren't any tight or excessively loose spots. The piece of paper method probably works almost all the time. I just feel more confident the mesh isn't too loose when I do it the other way. -Paul
  18. Do you know the part numbers of the springs themselves? What model did these blue dampers come from? I was pulling together some data on spring rates for a rally conversion project and have some numbers to share, but it's not comprehensive by any means. These numbers are for touring car springs and front buggy springs, but not rear springs. If you can figure out the part number for the spring itself, we might be able to cross reference it to a kit I have and then I can measure the spring rate for you. This is my setup for generating data: I weigh the unloaded spring first, lower the caliper finger until it just barely applies the slightest of force, zero the caliper, compress the spring a distance, read the new weight, and then calculate the spring rate based on force divided by distance.
  19. Thanks, Otis! Did you get the Mamba Max Pro SCT system or the Sidewinder SCT system? The pictures show a cooling fan for the Mamba Max ESC, but just passive heatsink fins for the Sidewinder ESC. They both come with the same 1410 motor. My Sidewinder SCT ESC just has the passive fins and they're good enough for a light load like a buggy. If they're starting to include a cooling fan with the Sidewinder SCT systems, then maybe that's a design change to help with heat in actual short course trucks which are heavier than a buggy. Jang on UltimateRC indicated the Sidewinder ESC got a little warm in his short course truck during the review. Regardless, it keeps cool and works great in a DF02 without any fans. I think this would make a great default choice for any basher/leisure vehicle that weighs 2 kg or less; just solder on a Dean's plug and you're ready to go... -Paul
  20. No, I haven't... That sounds pretty cool. I do use the depth measurement capability, though, so it would be difficult for me to trade that for fractions... -Paul
  21. This is what I think of when someone mentions a micrometer: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-micro...-set-66512.html Both micrometers and calipers are useful, but I find the calipers more useful because I can measure larger sizes, and I can measure both outer measurements and inner measurements -- note the two sets of fingers on the calipers. -Paul
  22. Ditto, except I get the tube of 10 for $13 -- part number DTXC1549. -Paul
  23. Are you looking for a micrometer, or a set of calipers? Where are you located? I have a set of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digita...iper-47257.html. They work very well. -Paul
  24. I'm wondering if this thread is more about currency exchange rates than kit prices; the question seems to be region-specific. In the USA it seems like the prices of established kits (2-5 year old releases) have been relatively stable. All of the newest releases seem to have a premium attached to them, but I've seen prices on certain kits go down as the excitement drops... -Paul
  25. I received the Castle Sidewinder SCT 3800 kV system last week and finally had a chance to install it in a DF02... I didn't have to cut any plastic like I first thought; the length of the motor can wasn't any problem at all. I decided to go for broke and try a 19T pinion right away to see how hot everything would get with just a basic transmitter calibration and no special settings (default punch control and timing). My reference point was a Sidewinder SV2 5700 kV system from last year; with that system I was using a 16T pinion, maximum punch control, and minimum timing, and the system would get too hot. As TA-Mark pointed out, the gearing for the SV2 system wasn't really right. But I was hoping with 50% more torque this 4-pole motor design would be much more efficient and wouldn't have major heat issues within the gearing constraints of the DF02 chassis. I ran the car tonight for about 10 minutes in the street at full speed, stopping every few minutes to check the motor and ESC. With ambient temperatures around 65F, both the ESC and motor were barely warm. I did some full speed runs, quick maneuvers, hard braking, 4WD burnouts and it didn't seem to phase the system at all. I think when summer gets here and the ambient temperatures are more around 90F I may want to drop to 18T or 17T, but the system really keeps cool without any fans which is exactly what I wanted. In terms of speed it's probably 80-90% as fast as the SV2 5700 kV system, but all that says is how hard I was overworking the older CM36 2-pole motor last year. It has plenty of speed for street or dirt use and it barely got warm during this test run, so I'm pleased with the purchase and would recommend it for a 4WD buggy. In a sense it's overdesigned for buggies, but that's how I like it. -Paul
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