Jump to content

speedy_w_beans

Members
  • Content Count

    3268
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. The last version was the metallic special; I'm hoping this release is less expensive and more within reach... If it turns out to be identical to 58321 for $300-$350 MSRP ($200-$230 Tower), then I'll probably pick one up and do some sort of mod Clod project with it... -Paul
  2. The gold is cool, just like the latest TA05VDF, but for actual racing the TA05V2R looks like it has more useful hopups... It's just not as pretty. -Paul
  3. As soon as I saw the Astral-style wheels I knew it was a DT02... That's too bad, because a more realistic Titan shell on a TA-02T would have been much better... Even the Stadium Blitzer Beetle pair have more going for them... -Paul
  4. Price on tamiyausa.com is $1295 USD... It should be around $800 USD if Tower carries it. -Paul
  5. I guess shrink wrapping doesn't mean anything after all. I would be a little nervous buying a NIB that's already been opened by a private seller -- who knows what parts are missing or how the kit has been stored, or if you'll even receive it after payment? Every kit I've bought in the USA has been shrink wrapped, and the TRF201 kit I bought at Stargek (Singapore) was shrink wrapped. I remember the TA05V2R I was looking at there was also wrapped. Even the bargain TB03 kits I've been getting through speedtechrc have been wrapped. -Paul
  6. Been there, done that with a stretched DF02: I'm guessing a new shell for the TA-02T. -Paul
  7. Interesting technique, and it clearly worked. If you were trying to preserve value for a future collector, it seems like removing the original factory plastic wrap negates any positive value coming from fixing blemishes. To me a NIB kit includes the original plastic wrapped around the box as evidence it was never opened and tampered with. I'm thinking either leave the plastic on, or break it open and build it. -Paul
  8. There's an easy answer for anyone who isn't satisfied with Tamiya's current products -- vote with your wallet. -Paul
  9. I've backed Fluorescent Green with Bright Silver before, and it gives a semi-metallic look to it due to the flakes in the silver. Or you can back with white for a more solid, less metallic look. Also, you might be surprised at how backing a brighter color with black gives it a dark subdued hue. I was shooting some Pactra Grape Pearl and instead of backing it with white I backed it with black. Indoors the car looks almost purple-black, but outdoors the pearl really pops in the sunlight depending on the angle of reflection. So there are no hard and fast rules -- it just depends on what outcome you're looking for. In general, though, you do want to paint starting with the darkest color first and working towards the brightest color last. I would do this: -Black -Fluorescent Red -Silver Assuming you want a semi-metallic look to the red to go with your silver. -Paul
  10. Besides the thoughts I mentioned earlier, two other things I did included: - The kit "shocks" have 18 mm lengths of tubing installed to limit the compression of the suspension. With the leftover tubing I cut four 3 mm lengths and installed them under the heads of the shock bolts to quiet the clatter between the shock bolts and the tub chassis. This also reduces the droop of the front suspension favorably. - For the two brackets (D7 and D8) that hold the gearbox shaft in place, I didn't bother with the small kit springs since they are prone to breaking. Also, I hate the thunking noise the gearbox makes when doing a wheely with these springs. And when the springs break, the noise is even worse. For Lunch Box #2, I wedged some leftover sprue material in D7 and D8 to rigidly hold the shaft flat relative to the tub. The gearbox is only free to pivot up and down, not side to side. This keeps the chassis pretty flat while cornering, but it also makes the rear end a little more bouncy. Some people do the "third shock mod" which is installing a mini CVA between the center of the gearbox and the tub, and leave the small springs out of D7 and D8. The third shock mod is more refined than my sprue wedges. We have three Lunch Boxes, two for the kids and one for me. A local gentleman has been kind enough to maintain a public dirt RC track at a nearby park, so I've taken the kids there a few times and we've had some fun with our Lunch Box Racing League. -Paul
  11. Try a Parma lexan Lunch Box shell to reduce the weight up top. The vehicle wheelies and handles better with less weight. For a brushless motor system anything rated around 3300kV to 3900kV should give you plenty of kick for a Lunch Box. A cheap brushless system will be more cost effective over the long run vs. buying a new ESC and a 19T brushed motor. Upgrade to ball bearings throughout the whole drivetrain to cut friction and achieve higher top speed. I prefer to keep the stock undamped suspension; I tried it with CVA oil dampers once and they absorbed some of the starting energy, making it more difficult to pull wheelies. -Paul
  12. I've used the standard gray Tamiya dish wheels with kit tires, Dirt Hawgs, and Hole Shot 2.0s ground down to slicks. The gray dishes come on the Sand Viper. Tamiya also has white "Astral" 5-spoke wheels (#51205 and #51206) that are the same dimensions as the dish wheels; these came on the Neo Falcon. I've also used HPI Super Star truck wheels -- these come in white, black, and chrome. The tires that mount on the truck wheels are wider, though, and may not be what you're looking for. In my case I was changing my Sand Viper into a pseudo Blitzer Beetle. For dirt the Hole Shot 2.0s are good and do provide more steering than the kit tires. Dirt Hawgs are good all-around tires and wear well on pavement, but aren't as good on dirt. Also, for a little more steering try adding an ounce or two of weight behind the front bumper. -Paul
  13. Is this the same feeling people have about the Avante family and the SRB family? It's more about what it represents than actual performance? -Paul
  14. Well, my statement on radio systems comes from three sources. 1) Bottom left of page 2 of this Novak GTB2 manual: http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instruct...2_basic_ins.pdf 2) Personal experience: I tried running a Novak Havoc 2S ESC with SS PRO 10.5T 4200 kV motor and a Futuba 2PH 75 MHz AM transmitter and RJ152E AM receiver, and the motor would hesitate and glitch when hitting the throttle hard from a low speed or standstill. I replaced the radio system with a Futaba 3PL 2.4 GHz FHSS transmitter and R2004GF receiver, and all the hesitation and glitching went away. 3) Anecdotal evidence on various RC forums. That's not to say every AM system will glitch; maybe your 27 MHz receiver is able to filter out certain noise better than a 75 MHz receiver, or maybe the noise is more in the 75 MHz spectrum than the 27 MHz spectrum. Maybe your installation is clean -- motor wires braided, sensor harness away from the motor wires, receiver antenna away from the motor wires, etc. Maybe it's a brand/quality/engineering issue too. Hard to say for sure. -Paul
  15. I bought a Castle Sidewinder SV2 system when they first came out -- $99 at Tower Hobbies last January -- and it included the CM36 5700kV 2-pole motor with it. A few months later that combination was discontinued and now the SV2 system ships with the 1406 4-pole motor. I wish I would have waited a little longer and picked up the system with a 1406 instead; the 2-pole CM36 needs 14:1 to 12:1 gearing to run acceptably in a 4WD buggy that only weighs 3.5 lbs, but I suspect the 1406 might tolerate 12:1 or 10:1 gearing given the better efficiency. Given the weight of the EXO Terra and how close it is to a short course truck, you may want to look at this advisory from Castle: http://www.castlecreations.com/support/adv...k-advisory.html. They do not recommend Sidewinder for heavier vehicles, and they are suggesting some really high gearing, like 12/90 or 14/90 assuming 2.6 transmission ratio for 4600 kV and 5700 kV motors. If you want to go with Castle, take a look at their Sidewinder SCT Edition which includes the 4-pole 1410 motor rated at 3800 kV. I think the Sidewinder SCT ESC is similar to the Mamba in terms of power handling, and the 1410 is better than the 1406, which is better than the CM36. Right now you can get the SCT system at Tower Hobbies for $145, which will run much cooler than the Sidewinder SV2 systems they are selling for $140. I would not put a first edition Sidewinder and 2-pole CM36 in a 5 lb vehicle, in my opinion. -Paul
  16. That's about all I have in my bag of tricks... Beyond that, maybe it's time to switch brands... -Paul
  17. A few more thoughts: - Are you using a good quality battery connector, like a Deans plug, on both the battery and ESC? - Do you have the power capacitor installed? I'm looking at a picture and description on Ansmann's web site, and the capacitor looks like a loose part to be wired in during installation. This is essential for operation. - Do you have to configure sensored vs. sensorless operation on the ESC? Is it running in the right mode? - Have you braided your motor wires together to minimize generating interference? - Are you running your sensor harness some distance away from the motor wires? - I didn't see any mention of your radio system -- is it a 2.4 GHz system? AM is a definite no-go, FM might be ok, 2.4 GHz is best. -Paul
  18. I'm interested in what you have to share for making bodies; there was another thread in the vintage section where the person was thinking about making bodies and polled everyone for ideas. How thick and heavy would a fiberglass body be? How much detail could it include? At a minimum making some internal top covers for rally car conversions would be on my list of things to do... So if you have a good, repeatable process to share with everyone, definitely make a new thread on this! -Paul
  19. The DF03 slipper set is Tamiya 53925. It's easy to install. There aren't any metal ball diff gears for the DF03 as far as I know. To break in a diff with a drill, build it completely first, then chuck one of the joint cups in the drill and hold the other. Spin the drill for a minute or so, then remove the diff and tighten/adjust the diff screw again. My statement about gear diffs was about the RC hobby in general; I'm not aware of any gear diffs for the DF03. -Paul
  20. 94eg! is correct about why I said to use the front diff joints on the rear -- they provide a metal surface for the diff rings instead of a plastic surface -- they're much stronger and better for heat. Acer ceramic > Acer tungsten > Tamiya diff balls, but the cost of ceramic isn't always justified. Check your favorite distributors for Acer diff balls. If your diff rings are truly glued to the plastic plates with CA as per the instruction manual, then add another set of TA04 diff rings and a set of front diff joints to your shopping list -- you won't be able to flip them over for reuse (at least not easily!). Prep as 94eg! states. There are several ways to set and break in a diff, but the key thing here is to not overtighten the diff while building it or adjusting it, and don't let it get too loose while running it. Too tight and the balls will flat spot, making it feel gritty. Too loose and the diff will slip, making it feel gritty and causing the gear to melt. It'll bark at you and sound nasty. Break it in with an electric drill or by holding one tire while running it slowly. Keep an eye on the adjustment and check it every run or two. Sealed gear diffs are getting more popular for a reason... I hope the repair goes well for you. -Paul
  21. If your Arduino board can process PWM signals from a radio receiver and then generate new PWM signals to something like a pair of speed controls, then mike_o might be interested in what you have -- search for his M-stick project on here and you'll see his concept for an electronic differential. The accelerometer could be handy for biasing his speed controls, as well... -Paul
  22. The diffs on the Dark Impact need regular maintenance and rebuilds to work their best. The rear needs more attention than the front. Do you have the manual for the Dark Impact? If not, grab a copy at http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=58370. Page 4, step 2, and page 8, step 14 are the key diagrams to reference. If the car is barely moving, then it sounds like both the rear and the front diffs are in need of attention. Even with a bad rear diff the front diff should still pull the buggy along. Since you're spinning the diff screw and it never tightens up, either the screw is broken in half or the threads have stripped on the screw or nut. I'm guessing you noticed some slipping in the rear and started tightening it, and probably went too far. The nut probably stripped and is no longer applying pressure to the spring, so the two diff rings are no longer compressing the diff balls in the gear. By throttling up with loose diffs, the damage could be extensive. The diff rings could be scored, the balls could have flat spots, the gears could be melted... You may need to get new diff gears, new diff balls, and new diff rings in addition to new screws and nuts. The problem with the rear diff is that the original rings are glued to plastic plates, so replacement is not an option unless you also get a set of front diff joints to run in the rear with the new diff rings. Check your thrust bearings for smooth movement too -- they may need replacement after over tightening the screw. The parts you can reuse pretty safely include the sponges, bearings, shims, spring, and D5 (but inspect all bearings for smooth movement). Most everything else is suspect and needs inspection at this point. If you replace the diff rings, I also recommend getting some Acer 3mm tungsten carbide diff balls instead of Tamiya diff balls; they're much smoother and last longer. The same comments apply to the front diff. The only way you'll know what is going on is to remove the diffs, disassemble, and inspect for flat spots, scoring, melting, stripping, and breakage... -Paul
  23. Check out Robinson Racing for pinion gears: http://www.robinsonracing.com/. Since this was a gas car to start, I'm guessing it used 32 pitch gears? Here's Robinson's page on 32 pitch pinions: http://www.robinsonracing.com/catalog/32pitchpinion.html. -Paul
  24. Here's my rally conversion project... I skipped the DF03Ra rally kits due to past experience with a Dark Impact buggy, and I also skipped the current TT01 rally kits due to ground clearance, plastic drivetrain, and friction dampers. I started with a TT01R Type E chassis, cut the bumper brackets to let the suspension arms droop more, used the longer ball connectors on the shock shafts, and moved the dampers to the outermost holes on both the suspension arms and damper stays. This gave me 21 mm ground clearance with the wheels and rally block tires. There are no issues with the dogbones, diff joints, or axles at full suspension compression and full steering. The benefits of the "R" kit over the a regular kit include adjustable camber, oil dampers, metal shafts/joints/axles, full ball bearings, etc... the good stuff. The undertray is just a few layers of duct tape trimmed with a hobby knife. This should keep the scuffing to a minimum on the chassis, and I can always replace it as needed. Duct tape is cheap! For a top cover I bought some shop rags at an auto parts store and had my wife do a little sewing for me. The idea is the shop rag will keep the bulk of the mud and grit away from the electronics and drive shaft, but it should still allow the electronics to breathe and keep relatively cool. It's not water proof and it's not perfect, but it seemed like a good compromise between shielding and cooling the electronics. The shell is a pre-cut, pre-painted Impreza WRC 2004 shell from Tamiya. I didn't realize this shell was on a TT01 when it was first released; I just bought it because it's winter and it's too cold to paint anything else right now. I need to order some Durga springs, cut them, and give them a try on this chassis -- the kit silver springs are definitely too stiff for off-road use. -Paul
  25. Hi Viking - Nice job on your TA05 rally conversion! I'm almost done with a TT01R Type E rally conversion myself and had similar observations about the stiff springs. Since we're both interested in the same thing, I spent some time today compiling a quick spring rate chart, attempting to find something better. Here's my measurement setup: And here are my results: Basically, TT01R Type E, TB03, TA05, and TA05V2 all come with the same hard silver springs. If you buy Tamiya's 53440 on-road tuned hard spring set, the white and blue springs don't really offer any advantage over the kit silver springs. The yellow and red springs are more interesting, but the red spring rate is still nearly 72% of the kit silver spring rate. All of these springs are really meant for on-road use and are too stiff for off-road use. I started thinking about cutting down front buggy springs, so I captured some measurements from a few of those as well, then predicted a new spring rate based on cutting the buggy spring down to a touring car length. The coil spring effect is really a torsion effect in a smaller package, so as the spring is cut shorter the torsion effect goes up, increasing the spring rate. This is why you see some kids' lowered Honda Civics bouncing out of control; they cut the springs to get the lower ride height, but don't recognize the change in spring rate. The original dampers are not effective at the higher spring rate. Based on predicted spring rates for cut buggy springs, my conclusion is Durga and Sand Viper springs have some merit. Don't bother with the Plasma Edge/Dark Impact springs -- they will end up about the same as the red springs after cutting. The cut Durga spring rate will be about 38% of the kit touring car spring rate, which seems really nice considering how stiff the touring car springs are and how much suspension travel is available on the rally car. I would consider this the "stiff rally" option for the chassis. It may also be worthwhile to cut up a set of Sand Viper front springs and try those too. They should be about 25% of the kit touring car spring rate. This seems like the "soft rally" option for the chassis. You may need to use some preload clips on the damper bodies to regain some ground clearance. I know #400 damper oil works pretty nicely with these two springs in the buggies, so with the 50% higher cut spring rates maybe some #600 oil would work better (use single hole pistons). With kit silver springs, red springs, cut Durga springs, and cut Sand Viper springs you should have a selection of spring rates including 100%, 72%, 38%, and 25%. The lower rates from the cut buggy springs should provide a much more compliant ride, but like the buggies, expect the chassis to bottom out easier unless you install some O-rings on the shock shafts as travel limiters. Also expect to lose some ground clearance -- a softer spring means the same chassis weight compresses the spring more due to lower rates. The measurements in my table are pretty straightforward -- length and diameter meaurements were taken with the calipers, and the mass measurements were taken with the scale. To measure the spring rate I clamped the calipers in a hobby vise, put the scale on top of the vise, and then lowered the caliper until it just barely made contact with the spring. Then I zeroed the caliper, pushed it down 2 mm, and read the new mass on the scale. The spreadsheet converts mass in grams to Newtons and divides by the 2 mm to get Newtons per millimeter. Hope you find this interesting and useful. -Paul
×
×
  • Create New...