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speedy_w_beans

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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. Your truck is looking better and better all the time. Thanks for the side by side shots of the LRW and Digger; I'll have to stew on what to do with this LRW body... -Paul
  2. Thank you Tamiya for: - Still producing kits. - Never forgetting any parts in any of the kits I've bought. - Providing very clear instructions. - Producing nicely detailed, high quality bodies. -Paul
  3. The paint itself probably looks better in person and even better in the sun than in the Flash photo. It makes me think of copper in the photo. I'd pull the big Z, outline the windows in chrome, and then pepper the body with a thousand rivet decals for a kind of hand-hammered, patched together, rat-rod kind of look... I see panels and panels of copper rolled through an English wheel and riveted together... -Paul
  4. HPI Savage XS Flux or it's big brother, the HPI Savage Flux HP. The XS is about half the cost of the HP. They're both quick and robust. -Paul
  5. Do you have the user manual? It's available here: http://www.castlecre...rs_ed_guide.pdf. It will tell you all the setting options available by transmitter. Start with these settings; they're not all 1: Parameter 1 -- setting 3 -- forward/brake/reverse Parameter 2 -- setting 2 -- brake amount 50% Parameter 3 -- setting 2 -- reverse amount 50% Parameter 4 -- setting 1 -- lots of punch control Parameter 5 -- setting 1 -- drag brake off Parameter 6 -- setting 2 -- dead band normal Parameter 7 -- setting 1 (NiMH) or setting 2 (Auto LiPo) -- battery cutoff voltage Parameter 8 -- setting 1 -- lowest timing Parameter 9 -- setting 1 -- brushless motor (not brushed motor) Those LEDs are acting strange, even with the transmitter at rest. I'm wondering if you have some radio interference, a radio system that's not quite compatible, a loose connection somewhere, or a defective ESC... -Paul
  6. I wish they would have machined a lip in that motor mount so the spur cover would seal against dirt better... One of the differences between a DF03 buggy and a DF03Ra rally car is the spur cover has a lip going all around it to minimize warping and provide a better seal against dirt ingress. -Paul
  7. That should be a lot of fun! It has a pretty decent review: [media=] [/media]I'll join you as soon as I can find the time to build my Savage XS SS kit! -Paul
  8. 1/10 applies in each of the three dimensions (x, y, z). Therefore, the 1/10 scale RC car uses 1/1000 the volume of the materials. 3.5 lbs (1/1000 of 3500 lbs) suddenly looks realistic if using all the same materials, but scaled down to correct sizes and thicknesses. -Paul
  9. A few things you can try. 1) Replace the ceramic capacitors on your motor with larger (higher value) ceramic capacitors; this will snub the noise a little better. 2) If the distance between the ESC and brushed motor allows for some slack in the wiring, twist the motor wires on the motor and ESC together like a peppermint stick, barber pole, twist tie, etc. By twisting the wires the loop area of the motor circuit is minimized, reducing noise emissions. Also by twisting the wires together each wire generates a field in opposing direction to cancel each other out. 3) Do the same (twist the wires) to the battery as well. 4) As Willy mentions, mount the receiver and run the antenna far away from the ESC and motor, spaced away from metal structure. Also make sure the motor is in top condition. 5) If all that fails, switch to a 2.4 GHz radio system -- they are much more resilient against interference. -Paul
  10. I wonder why they soldered 4.7k resistors between the power terminals and the can instead of small disc capacitors? Resistors do almost nothing to suppress radio noise whereas capacitors can be very effective... -Paul
  11. I have some of the sample packs (53443, 53444, 53445) as well as a few unopened kit bottles. The sample packs are clearly labeled as silicone damper oil, and each tube is identified on the cardboard with both color and viscosity. These are our reference points: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53443 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53444 http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53445 The unopened kit bottles are the same size (20 cc) and are filled with the same color liquid as the "soft" 400 cst yellow bottles in the sample packs. I can compare how quickly air bubbles move in the bottles when flipping the kit bottles and sample pack bottles over. Bubbles in the red and orange bottles reach the top faster than the kit bottle. Bubbles in the yellow sampler bottle (400 cst) and kit bottle reach the top at the same time. Bubbles in the green, blue, purple, pink, clear, and light blue bottles reach the top later than the kit bottle. What's really fun is watching the bubbles in all 9 viscosities reach the top in sequential order! So I can confirm packaging, color, and similar air bubble transit time and at least conclude the kit oil is the same viscosity as the 400 cst sampler oil. I don't have a mass spectrometer to prove material composition, but standard silicone oils generally have a specific gravity of about 0.97 where most mineral oils have a specific gravity between 0.75 and 0.90. Water has a specific gravity of 1 as a reference point. If I have three identical containers filled with water, silicone oil, and mineral oil, then the mass of each liquid should be around 20 grams (water), 19.4 grams (silicone oil), and 15-18 grams (mineral oil) -- a measurable difference between liquids ignoring the mass of the identical containers. I grabbed three bottles of unused kit oil, all yellow in color, and measured them on a scale. The three bottles had masses of: 24.4 grams 24.5 grams 24.4 grams Then I grabbed two bottles of unused sampler oil and measured them on a scale. The two bottles had masses of: 24.4 grams 24.7 grams I have to believe that all the plastic bottles weigh almost the same at 5 grams, and all the oils weigh about 19.4 - 19.7 grams. There might be some slight differences in fill level to account for the 0.1 and 0.3 gram outliers. If the kit oil was mineral oil, I'd expect to see total masses around 20-23 grams for each bottle versus 24.4 for the silicone oils. Based on the similarities in packaging, color, viscosity (observed bubble transit), and specific gravity, I have to conclude that the kit oil is 400 cst silicone just like the sampler pack oil. -Paul
  12. Tamiya yellow oil is 400 cst silicone shock oil whether it comes in the small bottles or larger bottles. Tamiya has a range of silicone shock oils available in different weights and colors for easy identification. Most of the kits I've built include a small or large bottle of yellow silicone oil. Red = 200 cst Orange = 300 cst Yellow = 400 cst Green = 500 cst Blue = 600 cst Purple = 700 cst Pink = 800 cst Clear = 900 cst Light Blue = 1000 cst Sample packs are available -- 53443 for red, orange, yellow -- 53444 for green, blue, purple -- 53445 for pink, clear, light blue. "cst" or centistokes, is a SI (international system) CGS unit (centimeter-gram-second) of fluid viscosity and is the right engineering/scientific unit to use. You'll see Tamiya, Kyosho, Ofna, Mugen, etc. using these values and units for viscosity. "Weight" is an arbitrary unit of viscosity that has no 1:1 relationship to "cst." Associated, Losi, and others have silicone oils available in "weight." 400 cst Tamiya oil is about the same as Associated or Losi 30 weight. Here's a great link for cross-referencing oils between different manufacturers: http://www.rcrcr.com...neral&Itemid=46 In terms of feel, 400 cst or 30 weight is where most people start by default, then tune from there. Lower numbers = less damping, higher numbers = more damping. -Paul
  13. Sidewinders require a separate Castle link USB adapter to connect with a PC -- you can read about it at http://www.castlecre...astle_link.html. The software and firmware updates are free, but the link dongle is a separate purchase for a Sidewinder. So far I've just programmed my Sidewinders with the throttle on my transmitter, but I guess you can access more parameters and adjust them with more resolution via the USB interface.. -Paul
  14. Thanks for all the great information! A signed body by the original driver would have been so cool! But, I'm ok with just the clear body. A pic or two of the LRW chassis next to the Digger chassis would be very helpful. I like the idea of modifying a Digger to stay with the original "wheelie" nature of the vehicle, but I could also go with a custom street truck on a 1/12 chassis or M-chassis... -Paul
  15. Yeah, I haven't seen any Little Red Wagon decals anywhere. The body was listed on RJ Speed's web site, but there was no information about decals or chassis. Measurements for the body I have are 195 mm wheelbase, 165 mm front width, 175 mm rear width (with wheel arches intact). The current Digger chassis is spec'd at 203 mm wheelbase and 209 mm width, which is too big for the body. I keep thinking about narrowing a Digger chassis and narrowing the rear wheels, and flipping the front suspension arms to reduce the wheelbase. I also keep thinking about shortening a M06 since its wheelbase is 210 mm and width is 165 mm; maybe there's a way to shrink the wheelbase 15 mm and add offset rear wheels. But that might be a long shot with the way the battery is installed... The final thought is to go with a RM-01 and reposition the front suspension arms since it's 201 mm wheelbase and 165 mm width... -Paul
  16. Glad to see some more RJ Speeds! I have the Little Red Wagon shell as well, but it isn't trimmed or painted yet. What chassis are you running underneath it? Digger? Also, where did you get the decals for the Little Red Wagon? The body I bought is just a clear shell with nothing else. -Paul
  17. I'm surprised the top speed is only around 10 mph, but maybe that's due to gearing and tire size? I'm running a 540 silver can with TEU-104-BK ESC in a RJ Speed Sport 3.2 pan car, and top speed is around 25 mph. Tire diameter is 63 mm, and gearing is 24T pinion with 81T spur. Are you running 1/12 size tires (47-48 mm) and gearing at 5:1 or something like that? That might explain why the speed is so different... You latest photos with the body mounts and the electronics taped down look great. Nice project made from spares! Now just give that body shell some love... -Paul
  18. I like it. There's a lot of potential here, and the project is moving in a good direction. Is there some way to clean up the inside edges of the rear foams? That's probably the most distracting part of the build in the photos. Everything else looks great! -Paul
  19. For a B4.1 +8mm body alternative, consider Jconcepts +8mm Punisher. Jconcepts also has a +8mm Finnisher body, but it looks more like the Pro-Line Bulldog. The Punisher looks pretty good to me; it's as close to the Associated RC10B4 Interceptor body as I've seen. -Paul
  20. I have a Futaba S3305 in my B4 Factory Team. Any standard size servo (S3003, S3004, S3305) should work fine. If nothing else, you can use the dimensions and mounting hole locations of these servos to shop for something similar in your favorite brand. -Paul
  21. Some quick thoughts from browsing the Tower Hobbies site: - Tamiya M03-M Suzuki Super Swift kit for $100. This is the previous generation to the M05; some people prefer this chassis over the M05. - Tamiya TT01E Ford F150 SVT Lightning kit for $115. This would be a good starter chassis with the potential to be modified for drifting or rallying at a later date. - Tamiya M05 Mini Cooper Racing kit for $119. Fun to drive as others have mentioned, and also popular as a spec racing class depending on where you live. Within Tamiya's lineup, I'd vote for the TT01E kit as it opens the door to a lot of options depending on what you want to do with it both now and in the future. Another option is a RJ Speed Sport 3.2 pan car for $119. I have one of these, and with a 540 silver can and basic ESC this car is a blast to drive. It has good acceleration and top speed thanks to its light weight and gearing. If you already have a radio, receiver, servo, ESC, and silver can motor it will all transfer to this chassis easily. The kit comes with chassis parts, body, tires, and wheels, so there's nothing else to get assuming you have the electronics already. I like the ground clearance this chassis has (good for unprepared asphalt with pebbles and debris). The foam tires have good grip and wear pretty well. This car teaches you how to be a smooth driver; I like it a lot. I have examples of TT01 drift and rally conversions, and (BoLink) Sport 3.2 pan cars, in my showroom. -Paul
  22. ^^^ Thanks OCD, I just went from 7 Neutral to 8 Neutral... lol. -Paul
  23. If restoring and collecting vintage Tamiya is mostly driven by reliving our teenage years, look at what today's teens or early 20-somethings are playing with. I see a lot of trucks and scalers in the popular RC magazines. In the broader context of the overall RC industry, the next wave of nostalgia may very well be restoring Slashes, Rustlers, E-maxxes, Savages, Wheely Kings, etc. Tamiya appeals to people who like to build kits and appreciate fine details; I think the market has shifted and the hot sellers of today or even 5 years ago will be candidates for restoration/collection in 10 to 20 years. The NIB Slash or Wheely King eventually may be worth more to most people than a Desert Fielder or Lunch Box just because these are the vehicles generating memories for today's younger people. Don't get me wrong -- in my collection I own more Tamiya than the other brands combined. I'm just trying to think through what has fueled the Tamiya vintage and re-release scene. Tamiya knows how much they sold of each original kit, and they know the tendency of people to get nostalgic at certain times in life. There's probably a good business case for each re-release, and a good business reason why certain re-releases have not occurred. I'd have to think Traxxas will have their day in another 10-20 years when people reflect on their Slashes. Traxxas will know how much they sold of the original RTR, the tendency of people to get nostalgic, and might be able to generate a good business case to re-release the Slash or a series of restoration parts. Look at how Tamiya is competing and selling today, and that should provide some insight into the future vintage RC scene... -Paul
  24. I think this number increments each time someone likes a post you've made. -Paul
  25. The problems I had with my DT02 Sand Viper included: - Screw pins in the front and rear suspension arms kept loosening (tried rubber cement and nail polish as mild adhesives; didn't help). - Some self tapping screws in the front and rear damper stays where they attach to the main tub would loosen (tried rubber cement and nail polish as mild adhesives, didn't help). - Some self tapping screws used to secure the bottom of the gearbox to the chassis tub would loosen regularly. - The screw holding the servo saver to the servo would loosen (semi-fixed with a larger screw). - Servo saver snapped at least once. When the front suspension screw pins or servo saver would loosen up, it was a pain in the neck to pull the front bumper and/or top brace just to get to one or two screws. I got tired of checking all these screws after every run on the track; it was unrewarding and I just broke the buggy down for spare metal parts. The way screws kept backing out drove me insane. Later I built it back up with fresh plastic and used it as a light runner, but stepped up to an Associated B4 FT and a TRF201. On the plus side, the Sand Viper never gave me any drivetrain problems, and the suspension was fine after changing some springs and oil. You can fit standard 2.2" buggy tires on the kit wheels. Problems I had with the DF03 Dark Impact: - Front diff joints kept chipping - Front left steering knuckle screw kept backing out, even after changing plastics and screws - Front damper stay is kind of weak; I broke several of those - Occasionally had small rocks jam the steering - Wore out the slipper layshaft gear after installing a 19T single brushed motor - Difficult to keep the motor cool because it's buried in the middle of the chassis - Difficult to install a brushless motor because the solder tabs are almost buried in the chassis as well - Rear ball diff needed constant maintenance and rebuilding, moreso than other cars - Some self tapping screws on the bottom of chassis tub would occasionally loosen and back out I guess now that I listed out all the issues experienced, I might have to switch and agree with TA-Mark that the DT02 is the better vehicle (at least from a problem point of view). They both have problems, but there are a greater variety and number of problems with the DF03. I might be biased a little in that the DF03 was much more fun to drive. It made some cool noises and had some responsive (but not perfect) handling. I guess it felt like it had more potential, at least. Like the Sand Viper, I broke this buggy down for spare metal parts and later built another one as a shelfer for my son. Both he and I moved on to DB01/DB01Rs, and even with their issues they've been much better buggies. I really like my Associated B4 Factory Team and keep eyeing the B4.1 Factory Team Worlds Edition. Where I live, it's easy to go to the local hobby shop and get Associated parts. They also get shipments from Great Planes in 2-3 days max. This is very helpful when trying to keep a vehicle maintained. -Paul
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