speedy_w_beans

Members
  • Content Count

    3154
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. speedy_w_beans

    RWD Touring Car Design Concept - Would appreciate thoughts

    Maybe; I think @Raman36 has mentioned in the past he was able to tame a M06 or M04 with wider rear tires. Maybe he can comment on your CAD rendering with his experience.
  2. speedy_w_beans

    RWD Touring Car Design Concept - Would appreciate thoughts

    I can't seem to edit my post, but for a historical perspective also consider Associated's RC10DS (Dual Sport) RWD touring car: Manual
  3. speedy_w_beans

    RWD Touring Car Design Concept - Would appreciate thoughts

    You're somewhat heading in the same direction as a 3Racing Sakura D4 RWD drift chassis. Central motor placed ahead of the rear axle, central transverse battery, RWD only... The key difference you have is the placement of the servo and ESC. You can save some room by placing the receiver on top of the servo. You may want to dedicate some room for a gyro like the GC301 because RWD cars can be tricky to throttle coming out of a turn. Braking gets interesting too with no front brakes. (F103GT experiences) I took a Sakura D4 AWD kit, deleted the rear spool, moved the front gear diff to the rear, and changed the layshaft pulley and rear belt to make it work (17T pulley, 39T gear diff, Sakura D3 rear belt). I mainly bought the AWD kit instead of the RWD kit to get a gear diff less expensively than a separate parts kit. My original intention was to make it RWD and design some front mechanical brakes, but I lost interest and added a 38T front one-way (w/ 16T layshaft pulley) with the original D4 center/front belt. (Showroom entry) Also take a look at the Thunder Tiger TS2e. Similar concept to what you're showing with flipped servo/ESC positions. From my point of view I'd want to get the motor and battery as close to the rear axle as possible for more weight over the driven wheels, and I'd want a gyro for the front steering to help reduce the risk of spinning out. I'd also want the front mechanical brakes or something similar to take advantage of the weight transfer when slowing down. The TS2e is limited by its front suspension; a normal touring car suspension with oil dampers would help some. The D4 RWD might be a better starting point to test some concepts.
  4. speedy_w_beans

    Lunchbox slow as molasses on grass

    I've built a few Lunch Boxes over time and had one gearbox get gritty and seize. Taking apart the gearbox didn't reveal anything obvious, and it would work fine for a short time then act weird and seize again later. Turns out I had forgotten to install BC6, the differential pin that fits between the two axles and positions the big differential spur gear. The whole diff spur gear was being positioned by the inner spider gears making contact with the axles. So, under harder loads the diff gear might skip and cause one of the spider gears to jump by one tooth, which then made the diff action gritty and semi-bound up. If it jumped again then it was game over. Once I realized the mistake and installed the differential pin, all the problems went away. Make sure your BC6 is installed, and it wouldn't hurt to try adding some thin shims or washers between BC7 spacer and MG1 axle gear to take up some of the play in the diff without making it gritty.
  5. speedy_w_beans

    Do all hop-ups make a difference?

    Personally I think it's the philosophy that goes into setting up a car that is much more important than how much blue aluminum is put on it. The blue aluminum implies "performance," but that's not necessarily the case if the parts aren't used to their full potential. At least in a racing environment, you have to ask yourself: How is the car performing right now? What is the problem that is slowing you down or annoying you? How do you want it to perform in the future? Are there setup changes you can make to the current car to affect its behavior? (Inexpensive and immediate) Can you modify the kit plastic parts to make a change? (Inexpensive but a greater time investment and some potential for unintended consequences) If you're buying the blue aluminum, what exactly is it giving you that you can't achieve with the kit plastic? (More pricey but potentially saves time and provides more tuning range) If you're thinking in terms of tire compounds and tread patterns vs. racing surface and temperature, rear toe-in, front toe-out, front caster, front and rear camber, roll centers, ride height, droop, etc. that will naturally lead you to some common hop up parts such as adjustable upper suspension arms, rear toe-in hubs, turnbuckle steering links, threaded aluminum oil dampers, and maybe a few other parts too. It all starts with what you're trying to improve in terms of the car's performance, what adjustment or change you need to make it happen, and most time/cost-effective route to getting there (within the track's class rules).
  6. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    Nice speakers! The foam suspension on a few of my Advent speaker cones is starting to deteriorate; I've been eyeballing foam replacement kits to refresh them.
  7. speedy_w_beans

    Clodbuster gearbox kit

    I think you're looking for 84027, Super Clod Axle Parts Set. Tamiya USA shows it as discontinued; the description says, " set contains the parts to complete one axle set with instructions."
  8. Is this restriction just with the Japanese postal service, or would it apply to any Fedex, UPS, DHL, EMS, etc. courier as well? I mean, if you really need/want something, then paying extra shipping to an alternate courier might still be an option.
  9. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    @ThunderDragonCy Those are NIBs; I've been collecting for the past 9 years. They'll keep me busy through retirement. I've slowed down purchasing quite a bit especially with new MAP pricing. The built models are in my showroom (here). As for the 801X build, I'll eventually do one, but in the meantime I do have a brushless 801XT build already (here).
  10. speedy_w_beans

    G.T. Power Lights, sound & vibration

    I've had some hit-or-miss quality issues with GT Power in the past. I bought a few of their Bluetooth Pro tractor trailer lighting systems, and the first system I tried didn't work correctly. It took some disassembly and inspection, but I found some bridged solder joints in some of the harnesses that explained the issues. Once I fixed the connections, the system did work as advertised. A second system worked out the box with no issues. What you linked looks cool, just check it as soon as you receive it in case it needs to go back.
  11. speedy_w_beans

    Teu101-BK and 104BK Speed controller help pleaseee!

    Hopefully you have the TEU plugged into channel 2 of your receiver; normally that's the throttle/brake channel for a pistol radio, and channel 1 is the steering channel. Is the receiver bound to the transmitter correctly (does the steering servo work as expected?)? Depending on your radio gear, you may need to change your throttle/brake channel from "normal" to "reverse." If your radio has an ABS (antilock brakes) function, be sure it is turned off. Make sure your throttle trim is set to 0 or centered. Make sure all EPAs (end point adjustments) are set to -100% and +100%. Make sure any EXPO (exponential) function is set to 0% if you have one for your throttle. Are you holding the setup button on the TEU as you turn on its power, or are you pressing the setup button after the power is turned on? The instructions talk about pressing the button before power on or after power on to either calibrate the ESC or change some settings, I think. Also, the duration of the button press is important (>0.5 seconds for calibration). Which radio are you using?
  12. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    About two weeks ago my daughter married and moved out of our house permanently. She and her husband grabbed a few things from her bedroom at our house a few days ago and gave us approval to do whatever we wanted with the rest of her stuff. After spending days removing clothes, toys, books, furniture, and other things she didn't want, we finally had a clean room. I am happy to say that most items found new homes -- quite a bit went to the local Goodwill charity, the used bookstore, and a local care center for young children. My wife and I decided to turn her former bedroom into a storage room for our hobbies, mostly my RC stuff and her sewing/quilting stuff. We spent a good portion of the day today building shelving units and moving items onto them. We still need to move quite a bit of fabric, and there are some opportunities to de-clutter other parts of the house, but it just feels good to see some order coming out of the RC chaos for now.
  13. speedy_w_beans

    TT02B diff replacement parts

    Are people doing this mod only for TT02Bs, or are they swapping in DF02/TT01 diffs for the on-road TT02 as well? Just trying to guess if the plastic TT02 on-road diffs in my car will hold up to 10500 kV, or if I shouldn't be surprised if they strip and click.
  14. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Received some spur gears, motor heatsinks and fans, and some power analyzers today. The analyzers show minimum voltage, maximum current, and maximum power for 5-40 V and 0-180 A. Very handy for seeing what happened after a speed run...
  15. speedy_w_beans

    looking for manual for Stadium Blitzer

    Lots of manuals available on Tamiya's main site; the Stadium Blitzer is about half way down the page: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm
  16. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's 3Racing M4 Chassis Build Thread

    Six or seven years ago I took one of my TT01s and converted it to a shaft-drive 4WD M-chassis using 3Racing's TT01 Mini conversion kit. At the time I think Tamiya had their TA05 M-Four belt-drive chassis kit available, but it was limited to 380 motors and the unique LiFe battery they had adopted in Japan. So, I went the conversion route, blinged it out, and topped it with a HPI Datsun 510 shell from their Cup Racer series (225 mm wheelbase). Overall I was happy with the result: I've been dabbling with 3Racing builds over the past couple years in addition to Tamiya builds, having completed D3, D4, and more recently FGX EVO 2018 chassis. Some chassis builds have been better than others; I found the D3 had some fundamental problems in materials and design, but the D4 was substantially better. The FGX EVO 2018 was pretty satisfying overall, but it too had some quirks possibly from the original FGX. When I saw the M4 belt-drive 4WD M-chassis offered for $80 USD recently, I jumped on it as an impulse buy to try with a HPI BMW 2002 Cup Racer shell that's been in my stash of bodies for some time. I reported yesterday (Thursday) that the M4 kit arrived in the "postman brought me" thread, and @Badcrumble responded to my offer to do a quick and dirty build thread on the chassis, so here it is. It was raining throughout the day today, so I used it as an opportunity to finish the chassis and collect some thoughts even before this thread is approved. The posts below will have some insights gleaned from building the chassis all at once. First, a quick word about packaging and documentation. There is a sticker on the top left corner of the box announcing 3Racing plans to not include hardcopy manuals in future kits; they include a few QR codes which represent web addresses for the product page and the manual page. The M4 kit I received did have a manual included with it, but it was bound in the same way as the FGX EVO 2018 manual -- essentially photocopied, punched with a few holes, and secured with a binder strap. I moaned about this some in my FGX EVO 2018 build thread, but the reality is it won't make any difference as 3Racing moves to electronic distribution of documentation in future kits.
  17. You might find some useful information in this setup sheet database: http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/SetupSheetDataBase.htm#Tamiya Browse through the on-road base setups and you'll get a sense of common ride heights, droop, spring rates, damper oils, camber/caster/toe settings, etc. Hudy's setup book will give you some ideas of how certain adjustments affect the handling of the car: https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/proddwnld.php?prod_id=262&kategoria=0&Hudy_Session=ad396472a0ae3907c7da204bb19b58f6 If you want some specific measurements I have TB03 w/ TRF415 shocks, TB04 PRO (version 1) w/ short shocks, TA05v2 w/ TRF415 shocks, TA06R w/ short shocks, and TB EVO 6 for reference. I can break out the calipers and give you some ballpark numbers if you like. For general play in the street, I usually have more ride height (8 mm+) and more droop to cope with rougher surfaces and debris.
  18. speedy_w_beans

    Do touring cars have any front kickup at all?

    The shorter wheelbase isn't necessarily a bad thing. I measure about 280 mm for the DB01R, and about 270 mm for the DF03 Dark Impact. I enjoyed driving the DF03 much more at the local indoor clay track years ago; it felt more nimble. The main downside was durability; ABS plastics, self-tapping screws, and the rear ball diff let it down. The DB01 felt more stable but heavier. I'd take the nimble buggy and live with some twitchiness over a more stable platform personally. FWIW, the front kickup on the DB01R is about 8 degrees for the lower suspension arms. The front uprights and steering knuckles add more caster, too.
  19. speedy_w_beans

    DB01 Questions/New Here

    If you're installing gear diffs I think installing the double slipper clutch and reinforced belts is a good idea as well. That will pretty much bulletproof the drivetrain with a mild 13.5T motor. If you can find a RR chassis that would be a nice upgrade for the LiPo tray, but then you might have to install the optional heatsink to plug the hole in the chassis; it mounts from the bottom. The alternative to the RR chassis is to replace the plastic battery strap with a TA05 carbon battery strap so a LiPo rides on top of the NiMH ridges in the stock battery tray. If you're only doing light to moderate running then the plastic suspension mounts should be ok; I ran mine on asphalt and dirt with the plastic suspension mounts and a 4200kV motor. I did have one crash where a rear mount flexed and the arm came loose, but in general they're ok. Aluminum suspension mounts are available as upgrades. The kit CVAs and springs are fine for light use; TRF buggy dampers or big bore dampers make more sense for track use where landing bigger jumps is the norm. The kit dog bones are ok; CVDs and wide-angle steering hopups are available but make more sense with more power and track use. Replace any 850 brass bushings with ball bearings; that will help the stock steering a little bit. There are aluminum steering upgrades available, but in my opinion they don't make sense for a light runner. A fairly kit-stock DB01 Durga was my favorite runner when I got into the hobby 9 years ago; I ran it with the ball diffs, single slipper, and stock plastic parts in the street quite a bit and took it to a clay track several times. The quiet belt drive is a real treat, and the kit springs and CVAs are perfect for street bashing. Enjoy it!
  20. speedy_w_beans

    Do touring cars have any front kickup at all?

    By default the lower suspensions arms on a touring car usually don't have any kickup to them at all. The front C-hubs that contain the steering knuckles usually have about 4 degrees of caster to start. Tamiya has made C-hubs with 6 degrees of caster as well. In addition to that, it's usually possible to install shims of varying thicknesses under the suspension arm mounts to introduce anti-squat and anti-dive to the suspension too. So, you could add or subtract a degree or two of caster this way, but it will affect the suspension under acceleration and braking as the arms aren't flat anymore. All of this applies to TA, TB, and TRF cars. The TT cars don't have this level of adjustment. Thinking about your TB-based buggy? 4WD buggies have much less kickup/caster than 2WD buggies.
  21. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiya Club Official Top 10 Fastest RC'ers List

    Excellent point about selecting RWD or FWD from a 4WD vehicle! Yeah, not sure how well FWD mode will work. I just thought if I'm going through a full setup process for the 4WD car, it's relatively easy to pull some parts and run it as RWD and FWD and see what happens.
  22. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiya Club Official Top 10 Fastest RC'ers List

    @Jason1145, quick question for you: I'm still waiting on some parts to finish my TT02 speed run car and plan to do a run for the 4WD category. I was reviewing the current rankings and see we allowed a RWD TT02 into the RWD category; I assume Kingfisher just pulled the center prop shaft and ran it that way. Are you still allowing that? Could I run the same chassis and body for two categories, just with the prop shaft installed or removed? Also, if we're allowing a RWD entry for a TT02, could I leave the prop shaft in but remove the rear diff, and run it as a FWD car? Technically the gear cases would not be modified per rules; it's more like using a speed tuned gear set (or lack of).
  23. Well, I didn't make you do all of that!!! Nice haul! I love building quality stuff.
  24. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    The postman delivered "the nuclear option" today; some Turnigy 10500kV motors.
  25. speedy_w_beans

    Quietest ESC / Motor combo?

    I'm not sure if any brushed ESCs are still available with programmable drive frequency (1kHz, 2kHz, 4kHz, 8kHz), but higher frequencies can help quiet down a motor some. Brushless is definitely quieter than brushed; some of my old Novak gear had programmable drive frequencies too.