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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. Worked on my M05 a little bit today... Edit: I've seen more showroom entries with cars in scale garages lately; the scale garages based on printed photos sometimes really trick me for a second or two. Today I photographed my real garage, photographed my M05 in the garage with the same lighting, and then did some scaling/positioning to see what sort of effect I could get.
  2. I was thinking while reading above that maybe the battery could go in toolbox like one of these diamond-plate models, but I also understand the value of easy battery access and the idea this is more of a casual model... Anyhow, neat build!
  3. I can certainly see where brushed motors will still be an option for a long time, but maybe current brushless tech will be superseded by this newer motor construction and electronic control scheme. I have to believe racers would be the first to adopt it through sponsorship and paying the expected higher cost, with it trickling down to mainstream hobbyists over time. What did it take for current brushless to become mainstream? 5 years? 10 years? Given this new tech is in demonstration phase, it will take quite awhile to convince manufacturers, get licenses in place, build out the supply chain, prove it in applications, etc. I bet it's an easy 5 to 10 years away from hitting the RC scene. Quite a few of my cars have brushless systems in them, but I still like brushed motors for monster trucks and pan cars. There's something about the soft startup and somewhat spongy dynamic that I like for these vehicles vs. the harsher startups and direct response of brushless in my buggies and touring cars. Plus, brushed is pretty inexpensive now with Mabuchi motors available for $4 and brushed ESCs available for $11.
  4. @stew_mac, that's a blazing run! Well done! I updated your listing in the modified Tamiya category, but do you have two TT02s (one TT02 and one TT02R) or just one you're working with? I just want to keep the list accurate. Again, nice job!
  5. I wonder if we'll see this tech eventually trickle down to RC... The video suggests full 1:1 EVs can operate without gearboxes, so I would think we could see the same thing with 1/10 scale vehicles. No more picking pinions and spur gears, maybe. Is this the next tech improvement in RC?
  6. That's a nice use of leftover and bargain parts. Good result!
  7. 58264 Castrol Tom's Supra for me... (another member's car)
  8. Right there with you guys. I had to get bifocals and a separate set of glasses for using the computer. On top of that, there's the beginning of a cataract forming in the middle of my right eye / dominant eye. Bummer, but it's a fact of getting older.
  9. My shot in the dark is a new plastic tub and a pair of reworked CC01 axles. The new tub might have a smaller center gearbox, improved steering, and frame rails molded into it. The axles might be narrower to allow for either straight or steering ends bolted on. Maybe trailing arms, panhard rods, and coil springs/dampers as well. Think of the front as a copy of the rear. It just seems like they won't stray much from what a CC01 is, but will update it to be closer to the solid axle, metal frame rail offerings of other manufacturers. They may very well keep the CC01 around for the IFS, but bring out the CC02 to complement it with solid axles. They still release TT01E kits even though the TT02 is available. I'd expect predominantly parts bin engineering with the exception of the tub and axle housings. Any extra cost is going to a second axle and paying back new mold costs. That's my guess...
  10. The F103GT has a 257 mm wheelbase, so you're only 3 mm away from that goal. However, my R91CP is 200 mm wide whereas the F103GT is 190 mm. Are you really after 250 mm, or 257 mm?
  11. Worked on my FGX EVO a little bit more as reported in my build thread. Also, I have a ton of these Tamiya box wrenches lying around and just for fun I chucked one in a drill and polished it with some Mother's mag and aluminum polish. It turned out pretty well, I thought. This was about ten minutes of work. Gotta take pride in your tools, right?
  12. Short update on the FGX EVO 2018... When I last put it on the shelf, I noticed the rear of the chassis seemed a little tweaked and the camber on the right rear wheel seemed wrong. Also, the shock positions under compression weren't matched very well. In the back of my mind I was thinking I should get this chassis on a setup stand soon and try to sort out the issues. A few months ago I bought a used granite inspection block for about $40 locally. Checking it with a height gauge in dozens of locations, it seemed to be very flat as the measured surface heights did not vary by even 0.01 mm. So, it's the perfect setup board for chasing chassis tweak and checking the suspension. Right away there was something odd about the left rear of the bottom chassis plate. Holding the front of the chassis down, the right rear was touching the stone, but the left rear was elevated. I could push down on the left rear and see the rear wing move, but the same didn't happen when pushing down on the right rear. All of the screws on the bottom of the chassis plate are countersunk, so they are perfectly registered with the holes drilled in the chassis plate. There's no simple opportunity to move them around. So, I just inspected each one for tightness and did find a single screw in the rear that could take another half turn. Nothing major on the bottom of the chassis, though, and the tweak was still present. The top deck is secured to posts using button head screws instead of countersunk screws, so they have a little bit of opportunity to float in their holes. I loosened them and saw a little improvement, but the tweak worsened as I tightened them down again. I also tried lengthening the center rear turnbuckle that connects the top deck to the rear gearbox; the instructions call for 25.4 mm of length, but I had set it at 25.0 mm in the build because the adjusters didn't perfectly line up with the ball studs originally. I did change the length to 25.4 mm and later to 25.6 mm, and that didn't seem to do much on its own either. What seemed to make the biggest difference, though, was loosening the four top bulkhead screws in the rear. These are the four screws that hold the two rear upper suspension arms in place as well. Once I loosened those and set the center turnbuckle at 25.6 mm, the left rear of the chassis seemed to flatten. I tightened the top rear bulkhead screws again and the flatness seemed to stay in place. Pressing on the left rear, the wing almost didn't move at all, which was a huge improvement over how it was earlier. With the chassis essentially flat I started checking the natural droop of each suspension arm. With the droop screws set high and the shocks set at full extension, I found the front right pushrod and the left rear pushrod needed to be lengthened. The front right needed to be loosened one turn, and the left rear turnbuckle needed about half a turn. With those changes in place each pair of uprights floated above the stone the same amount to the nearest 0.1 mm. Now with a flat chassis and the arms drooping in matched sets, I started looking at the dampers and their springs. The front springs and spacers seemed pretty well matched, but I noticed the rear springs were not perfectly matched for length. The right rear shock needed to have its lower spring retainer collar loosened and moved closer to the shock body by about 2 mm so the spring would just start to touch the retainer. The left rear shock needed to have its collar loosened and moved closer to the shock body by about 0.5 mm. Now the threaded adjusters were at the same starting position, and the lower collars were adjusted to compensate for spring length. Rear changes: Lengthened center turnbuckle, loosened and retorqued upper bulkhead screws, loosed and retorqued upper decks screws, left rear pushrod turnbuckle lengthened slightly, damper spring collars loosened and repositioned for actual spring lengths. Front changes: Front right pushrod lengthened by one turn, loosened and retorqued upper deck screws. Flat chassis, equal droop, springs set to the same starting positions -- time to check the camber and toe. The front was not bad -- about 2 degrees of negative camber on each side, and about 1 degree of toe-out on each side. Perfectly fine as a starting point. The rear was a little out of whack; the right rear actually had about 1 degree of positive camber and the left rear had about 1 degree of negative camber. A few twists on the turnbuckles, and they were both at about 2 degrees of negative camber. Each side has about 3 degrees of toe-in. The ride height checked out all around the chassis plate. In general the ride height was 8.3 mm with a minor variation of +/- 0.1 mm depending on where the measurement was taken. This was without any electronics installed, but when I do I'll redo the ride height and check/tune the corner weights. I'm thinking the corner weights won't be too bad as the battery and motor are along the center line of the chassis, so it'll be mostly a ride height adjustment later. Anyhow, I feel a lot better about this. Not sure when I'll get back to this car again, but at least I know it's not sitting on the shelf crooked and weird while it waits for me.
  13. Just wanted to give a public accolade to Tower Hobbies for addressing an issue for me today. The postman dropped off a shipping box that looked to be in good condition, but inside the Tamiya 1/24 Toyota TS020 model kit I ordered was ripped and smashed in one corner. Also two edges of the box were seriously creased. The two other model kits I ordered were pristine. I contacted their customer service via email, attached a photo, and requested a RMA/exchange for a different kit. Much to my pleasure, Tower Hobbies rep Jessica replied and said they would send a new kit, and to keep the damaged one I have as a courtesy. They went above and beyond on this request for service!
  14. Changed the pinion and spur on my Sakura D4 drift chassis today. I had it geared for speed, but it would thermal after a minute or two of driving. Raised the FDR some and took it outside for a quick test drive. I have it set up with rear gear diff (instead of a spool), a front one-way (instead of a diff), and regular rubber tires (HPI X-Patterns). The kit springs and dampers are definitely stiff in the rear and soft in the front, and the steering has quite a bit of throw. As a result this car is kind of fun because it's a blend of drift and grip at the same time. Watch how it behaves in turns, and bonus points for hitting every cone:
  15. Hard to believe it was 6 or 7 years ago when I was playing with this vehicle; at the time I was thinking about how much adoration there is for Willy and wondering why other characters in Tamiya's repertoire weren't as popular. It just seemed like Willy is iconic thanks to his Jeep and even saw some reuse in other models like the Honda City Turbo, but arguably Vanessa is just as iconic thanks the Lunch Box. I wanted to extend her fame as well. But hey, if we're talking about characters:
  16. No problem. Most pitches are pretty clear - 32p, 48p, and 64p are all imperial measurements, and 0.8 mod, 0.6 mod, 0.5 mod, and 0.4 mod are all metric measurements. Unfortunately there are a few pinions listed as metric 48p, which is a complete misnomer as the measurement can't be both at the same time. This confusing terminology usually means the gear is actually 0.6 mod.
  17. There are only a few things you need to know to source a new pinion. Number of teeth: In this case, 18 Pitch of the teeth: Defines the spacing of the teeth around the circumference of the pinion. In this case, 0.6 mod (or 0.6 module). This is a metric pitch/spacing. Material: The kit pinions many times are basic aluminum, but you can source pinions made from aluminum (with a hard coating), steel, and sometimes hardened steel. Steel is better than the kit aluminum. Manufacturer: Some third-party manufacturers include Robinson Racing (USA) and RW Racing (UK/Europe). Check with your favorite hobby store to see what they carry. I'm in the USA, so in this case I'd get a Robinson Racing 1118.
  18. I like where you're going with this, except maybe RM01 instead of F103/F104 for slightly narrower (M-chassis) 160 mm width? It would be relatively easy to cut some fresh FRP for a longer chassis plate, use the RM01 rear pod like you say, and then add several rows of RM01 front arms for as many fake axles as needed. Then you'll need some sort of body mounted on top of it, maybe even screwed to the FRP chassis.
  19. Excellent work, @Group c! Can you edit your post to include ESC and motor details? Also, did you mean 41T pinion and 60T spur, or is it as you posted? @El Dougo, are you feeling the pressure yet?
  20. @ThunderDragonCy, just a quick comment on plastics... You can always tell what plastic resins are used for parts based on the resin code molded into the sprue or the major part (chassis, body) itself. >ABS< -- Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene, usually used on DT/DF/M/TT/CC/CW parts and some colored hard bodies except for bumpers and body posts. Hard but brittle. >PA< -- Polyamide (Nylon), usually used for bumpers and body posts. Soft but impact-resistant. >PA-GF< -- Polyamide (Nylon) with glass fiber reinforcement, usually used on DN/DB/FF/TA/TB/CR parts except for bumpers and body posts. Harder and somewhat impact-resistant. >PA-CF< -- Polyamide (Nylon) with carbon fiber reinforcement, usually used on R-spec/MS/TRF vehicles. Even harder but can be brittle, especially C-hubs. >PC< -- Polycarbonate, under the trade name Lexan, usually used for bodies and some cockpits/driver figures. More impact-resistant than another >PC<, acrylic. >PET< -- Polyethylene Terephthalate, sometimes used for cheap Lexan-like bodies. Not as impact-resistant. >POM< -- Polyoxymethylene (Acetal), under the trade name Delrin, sometimes used for shock pistons, servo savers, spur gears, etc. Good for low-friction parts. >PS< -- Polystyrene, used for many hard bodies in white. I suspect many of the parts in your kit are >PA-GF<, with the bumper/body post parts being >PA< and the optional C-hubs >PA-CF<. If you still have the sprues, look for the molded-in tabs with the resin codes. The chassis tub should have a code molded in somewhere too. Anyhow, from observing the resin codes for various parts in a kit, you can get some ideas about what sort of mechanical tradeoffs designers were making. It's also good to know the material as it affects painting/finishing steps. FWIW.
  21. FWD list updated; clarification added to the top of the Top 10 list.
  22. I think you're right; I need to check with Group c and see if all his FF03 runs are the same chassis, or if he has a few of them. I suspect I left too many entries in the FWD list.
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