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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. speedy_w_beans

    niki lauda has passed away...

    I have nothing but respect for him. RIP.
  2. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Just a quick update: I tried the 49T pinion and it was about a 1 mm too large. This 64 dp, 49T is roughly equivalent to 48 dp, 37T. I opted to switch to 48 dp and rummaged around my parts box, and I want to confirm what you said: 48 dp, 32T is about the largest pinion that will fit in an unmodified TT02 gearbox. I took some measurements and found an online calculator for spur gear dimensions, and figured 48 dp, 66T would be the smallest spur that would reach the pinion with my motor fully positioned inboard. Anyhow, I ordered some 68T spurs to be safe and will have to live with a 5.52:1 FDR. With a 10500kV motor that will give a theoretical stop speed of 104 mph, but most calculators suggest taking 25% off that figure. Maybe 80 mph if I'm lucky?
  3. speedy_w_beans

    The Day eBay Killed RC

    There was a local news story on the television last night about old Disney VHS tapes listed on eBay for $15,000 USD. The sales pitch is something along the lines of how valuable these collectable tapes are or will be some day. The "expert" they interviewed clearly stated not to fall for this, and to only buy things you will personally enjoy so there's no concern about making or losing money.
  4. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Nope Racing strikes again. I went to install their adjustable motor mount in my TT02, and the screw spacing doesn't match the face of my motor. I've had zero problems with this motor in other cars, so I'm guessing they got it wrong. I guess I need to measure it and break out some files.
  5. I've never been called out in someone's thread title before; I was a little worried!
  6. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    At least communication was prompt and a refund was issued. We have several horror stories documented on TC of scams and losing models or losing money completely. I get your disappointment; at least it was a clean exit.
  7. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Not sure. I referenced a "TheRCRacer" post where the author was running a 53/70 pinion/spur arrangement in his TT02, but I didn't want to modify the cover like he did. So I'm backing down a few teeth on the pinion to hopefully fit without modifications (per Jason1145's speed run rules).
  8. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    Today I had planned to work in the yard, but I got distracted by a lawnmower my neighbor parked in the street for bulk pickup. Our community has bulk collection days a few times a year; people leave all sorts of things at the curb and guys with pickup trucks come around looking for the 'good' stuff before the trash crew comes through. Anyhow, I debated for a day whether to bother with it. Visions of custom yard tools and go-karts filled my head. On the other hand, it could be a total waste of time and yet another project I don't need. I opted to grab it and do the minimal amount of work possible just to get a sense of its condition. If it ran, great, maybe we'll do something with it. If it didn't, well, I could always push it back to the curb and let someone else take it. The engine oil measured low on the dip stick. In true cheapness, I used some recycled oil from one of our cars just to get the level right. The air filter was dirty, but not totally clogged, so I left it alone. The spark plug still had a reasonable amount of electrode left and had a decent gap. My neighbor at one point told me the mower ran when he put it away six months ago, but it didn't start recently. There was gasoline in the tank, and I assumed it was a stale. I drained all of the old fuel from both the tank and the carburetor bowl and added fresh fuel. Then the carburetor got a couple shots of cleaner. It took a couple pulls, but it fired right up! Unfortunately it was pretty loud and shook quite a bit. So I started going through it to see what else was wrong. The fasteners for the handlebar position were loose, so the handlebar was floppy. They were tightened. Some of the cables and harnesses were flopping around; I added some new zip ties. The muffler was loose and flopping around; the bolts were torqued down again. The engine itself was loose on the deck; you could twist it a few degrees in either direction! So all the fasteners underneath the deck were torqued. I pulled the blade and started the engine without it; there was almost no vibration at all, so I assumed the blade was out of balance. I have one of those conical blade balancing tools and a bench grinder, so after a few minutes the blade balanced pretty well and I put it back on. Most of the vibration was gone! So at this point I know the engine runs pretty well. It just needs a basic tuneup with a new air filter, maybe a new spark plug, and some fresh oil. It has electric start, but the battery is dead and the fuse is missing in the harness. The self-propelled feature works fine and the tires even have some decent tread left. I offered the mower back to my neighbor, but he doesn't want it. He's ready to buy a new one. My son and I are now plotting what sort of go-kart we can make with a bunch of pulleys, belts, and plywood. I've also joked with my wife about making a fake Segway-like thing she can drive down to the mailbox and back in pseudo-snooty fashion. Who knows, the possibilities are endless with a spare engine lying around!
  9. speedy_w_beans


    Wow, that's cool! My dad is into American Flyer trains and has a layout in his basement; it's similar with all the wiring underneath and the scenery above. I like how you can winch it up and down in the garage for storage.
  10. speedy_w_beans

    Turnigy 2wd Short Course Truck build

    So you've had this truck for awhile; what do you think? Is it worth the asking price? Best/worst points about it?
  11. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Got some go-fast goodies for my TT02 today. The gears should provide a 4:1 FDR.
  12. speedy_w_beans

    F1 reveals 2021 concept cars

    The concepts looks sweet! I hope we can get some fresh releases from Tamiya for this!
  13. speedy_w_beans

    The metal parts upgrade trap ...

    Yeah, I fell into that trap once... It's pretty, but too nice to use. Never again.
  14. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Received a Toyota TS050 shell today. It'll take the place of a Nissan GTR LM Nismo shell in another F103GT kit.
  15. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I've been playing around with GPS for my TT02 speed run car; I'm not sure I'm happy with the options. A SkyRC GPS speed meter showed up Saturday; it's not quite what I hoped for. It charged ok, but the power button takes more force than the other buttons to turn it on or off. The mode and recording buttons are better. It seems like it always goes through a cold boot cycle every time the power is turned on; this means it will find a few initial satellites and report a position, but there is a lot of initial altitude and position drift which turns into momentary 5-10 mph readings when the unit is at rest. This means the max speed is rarely zero for a few minutes. It seems like it does acquire more satellites over time and the speed does stabilize at 0 mph, but it's just annoying that it has to go through this process each time. I guess if I want to use it I should power it up immediately at the site and let it find satellites while I'm prepping the car. The PC software used to configure the unit and download data is amateur at best and doesn't support Windows 10 without some hacking. As a plan B option I downloaded the DigiHUD app for Android on a Samsung Galaxy J3 Orbit, a cheap phone used with prepaid carriers. GPS acquisition time is better and the drift is much lower (maybe 1-3 mph readings initially at rest); I'm pretty certain the almanac data is kept between power cycles, too. It also settles to 0 mph more quickly than the SkyRC unit. The font size is bigger for speed and max speed readings. I can download any number of GPS apps from the Google Play Store for free if this one doesn't work out. The main downside to using a phone is its size; it will need a more robust way to secure it to the car in case of a crash. A quick photo in direct sunlight... Both displays are washed out to a certain extent. The larger font size might make the phone easier to read in a video; maybe it won't be so washed out on an overcast day. If I had to do it all over again, I think I would save the money and not buy the SkyRC unit. Just grab an old phone and download an app. I also spent a little time on Google Maps trying to scout a decent location for a speed run attempt. Most of the roads around here have elevation changes and curves. There is possibly one road behind a local school that will work; it's about 1000 feet long and looks straight and flat. There are a few streets with dead ends that might work too. The local shopping mall might be an option at 7 AM before any stores open. I'm still looking around.
  16. speedy_w_beans

    How has the hobby affected your relationships?

    Like TurnipJF, my wife and I have our respective hobbies and we support each other in them. She loves to make quilts; on some of my overseas business trips she's tasked me with stopping in fabric stores and getting specific patterns for her. I'm happy to oblige because I know it makes her happy to have some 'exotic' fabric from southeast Asia or Europe that none of her quilting friends have. Similarly, if I voice some interest in a specific kit she's always encouraged me to pick one up. She's bought me a few kits for Christmas over the years, usually some of the nicer ones I couldn't justify buying myself. We both agree that real life takes priority (ala parenting, bills, taxes, work, etc.), but if all the bases are covered then there's no problem enjoying our respective hobbies. One of our children is out of the house now, and the other one has one more year of school to go, so hopefully the hobbies will help make the transition to an empty nest a little easier. We're approaching 25 years of marriage later this year; I can't imagine any facet of life without her.
  17. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Yes, I'm thinking about cutting some aluminum sheet and riveting it to the chassis tub to mostly seal the floor. The bottom center of the tub protrudes a little, so with the right sheet profile I can make it flush with the plastic.
  18. speedy_w_beans

    Modelling and printing gears

    I'm thinking the design details of gear teeth are not very reproducible or durable given the typical 0.4 mm nozzle size of home 3D printers. Even with a smaller 0.2 mm nozzle, the available materials are not that great in printed form. If these are really rare and you want to make copies, I'd consider making a silicone mold of the original parts and then pouring a resin to cast copies. This article, in particular, caught my attention with the properties of resins available: https://makezine.com/2014/03/21/resin-casting-going-from-cad-to-engineering-grade-plastic-parts/ Instead of CNC milling the positive parts and making molds from them, just make the molds from the original parts you have. Just a thought to consider.
  19. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I'm in the middle of prepping a basic TT02 for a speed run attempt and played with the body and tires today. There are some drivetrain upgrades still in the mail, so this is something that can be done while I wait for those parts. The body is a Protoform P47-N; it's meant for 200 mm wide touring cars, but I wanted something oversized relative to the TT02's narrower 182ish mm width. The result is the wheel arches remain intact to keep some air out and maintain the structure, and the front can steer completely without rubbing on the inside of the shell. I'm opting to keep the body clear so I can mount a GPS speedometer to the chassis and make it easily viewable while protecting it from crashes. Having a clear body also gives me some options for mounting a FPV camera if I want to try that later. The tires are Contact RC 35 shore foams meant for nitro touring cars. The idea here is to minimize expansion at speed to reduce the risk of a failure and maximize traction. The back of the shell might get some holes reamed into it eventually, but given the shell is designed with some downforce in mind already, it might be worth it to test as is.
  20. speedy_w_beans

    Recommended kit

    The easy answer we usually give to this question is Mad Bull.
  21. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    A little while ago I reported in the "postman brought me" thread I had purchased and received a 3Racing FGX EVO 2018 kit. While I still have a few other projects in the queue, I thought I would knock out a short build thread showing some details and reporting some impressions of the build experience. I know from my own searching there are other people on other sites who have done some builds and impressions of their own; the short story is the wheelbase is a little too long for certain racing rules and the weight is possibly +200 or +250 grams over a regular pan-style build, disqualifying it or putting it at a disadvantage from a racing perspective. With that said, I didn't buy the kit to race it. I've built a few Tamiya pan-style chassis and appreciate their lightness and simplicity, but I've also been eyeballing 3Racing's F1 chassis kits for a number of years including the F109, F113, and the original FGX. The F113 in particular caught my attention with all the carbon fiber, pink aluminum, and oil damper front suspension, but the kit went out of production by the time I got more serious about it. Somehow, too, I knew of the original FGX with its inboard independent suspension setup, but I ignored it and it went out of production too. When 3Racing announced the FGX EVO 2018 last year, I committed to buying one and finally getting a F1-style chassis with independent suspension. My real focus is on the suspension of this model and how it copes with unprepared street pavement. I've had a bit of a love/hate relationship with 3Racing over the years. A decade ago I put a set of their buggy dampers on a DF03 Dark Impact, and the shock shafts bent easily. On the other hand, I've used a number of their dampers on M, TT, and TB chassis, and I've been satisfied with them. I built a Sakura D3 drift chassis several years ago and had to immediately spend an extra 50% fixing the known issues of the chassis, and later I had to hack the chassis tub to fit a battery into it. But, I also built a Sakura D4 drift chassis and I can definitely say it is much improved over the D3. So in reading others' experiences with the FGX EVO 2018 so far, I don't have any problem with the wheelbase or extra weight. The one issue that might bite me at some point is possibly a weak front suspension block. It seems a few racers have tapped the wall and the front block has broken, leaving one side of the front suspension dangling. We'll take a closer look at this when I get to that point in the build. 3Racing isn't the first to bring inboard, cantilevered, independent suspension to a F1 chassis. Tamiya did exactly this with their F201 chassis years ago. In fact, TC member tamkyo posted pictures of his F201 with 3Racing carbon chassis conversion back in 2007: In some respects you could say 3Racing's experience designing a carbon chassis for the F201 likely led to their own development of the original FGX and now the FGX EVO 2018. Tamiya hasn't re-released the F201, so to get a quick easy taste of this architecture the FGX EVO 2018 will do for only $110 USD at RCMart. You can see the similarities between the F201 and the FGX/FGX EVO 2018 in one of pininy's showroom entries from 2018. The EVO is like a F201, just 2WD instead of 4WD. Onward with the unboxing! 3Racing is offering the kit in four versions currently; the only difference between them is the color of the included body (red, green, blue, clear). Normally I would go for a clear body and paint it to my preferences, but I'm leaning towards using this chassis for something other than F1 later. A prepainted body accelerates the build and keeps it simple with just chassis and electronics; later I'll shelve the body and reuse the chassis. Here's the box. And here are the parts bags in the box. Diff, chassis, steering, suspension, dampers, wings, tires, and detail parts are all included. The bagging and bag labeling are all typical 3Racing. The decal sheet is generic but just fine for a budget build. The manual is done in 3Racing's usual style, but I was a little surprised to see them use a short binder strap to hold the pages together. It's almost like they ran the manual through a photocopier and hole punch, then went to the local office supply store and stocked up on straps. On one hand the pages come apart easily if you want to lay them out one at a time; on the other hand, a stapled book seems a little more professional to me. I know, I'm showing some of my weirdness here, but the binder strap kind of bothers me! This isn't a service manual for a diesel engine or ag tractor! Their D3 and D4 manuals weren't like this! Here's the prepainted body. Overall it's pretty nice with only a few minor complaints. The side pods are installed properly, but for some reason the front of the pod section doesn't line up with the main body properly. It's not a big deal; this can be trimmed easily. The pods are joined to the main body with some sort of clear adhesive. I didn't pull on the pods that hard, but they do seem to be held in place pretty well. A little more trimming and sanding needed at the rear of the body as well... Overall it's not bad. The body just needs a little more work to make it nice, but no painting is required. I'll likely get into the build itself tomorrow. As mentioned earlier, the intention is to knock this out, note anything of interest along the way, maybe do a quick test drive and get some impressions, and then repurpose the chassis if I like it. You can look at this build thread as a tour of the design, materials, and assembly process more than anything else. More to come...
  22. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

  23. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Received a Protoform P-47 body, foam tires, and a steel pinion for my base-level TT02...
  24. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiyaclub USA Members

    Tamiyaclub USA members.... Sound off! Any of you in or near NC?
  25. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    Have you considered a dual action random orbital polisher? It might expedite the process. I've been watching videos about these to possibly shave some time off waxing the cars but have concluded they work best for paint improvement/restoration. They're overkill for modern liquid waxes used on already decent paint. Maybe mount a larger scouring pad to the DA, keep the speed low at first, and go for some light passes to see if it works well. Harbor Freight has these for $69 (and less with a coupon); there are some good YouTube videos on using these tools to improve paint. Full disclaimer: I've never used one and I've never faced an aggressive paint restoration like you are. It's just an idea that doesn't seem too expensive and might get you to the finish line 10x faster. I'd be worried about burning through the paint too easily, though.