speedy_w_beans

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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Received a Toyota TS050 shell today. It'll take the place of a Nissan GTR LM Nismo shell in another F103GT kit.
  2. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I've been playing around with GPS for my TT02 speed run car; I'm not sure I'm happy with the options. A SkyRC GPS speed meter showed up Saturday; it's not quite what I hoped for. It charged ok, but the power button takes more force than the other buttons to turn it on or off. The mode and recording buttons are better. It seems like it always goes through a cold boot cycle every time the power is turned on; this means it will find a few initial satellites and report a position, but there is a lot of initial altitude and position drift which turns into momentary 5-10 mph readings when the unit is at rest. This means the max speed is rarely zero for a few minutes. It seems like it does acquire more satellites over time and the speed does stabilize at 0 mph, but it's just annoying that it has to go through this process each time. I guess if I want to use it I should power it up immediately at the site and let it find satellites while I'm prepping the car. The PC software used to configure the unit and download data is amateur at best and doesn't support Windows 10 without some hacking. As a plan B option I downloaded the DigiHUD app for Android on a Samsung Galaxy J3 Orbit, a cheap phone used with prepaid carriers. GPS acquisition time is better and the drift is much lower (maybe 1-3 mph readings initially at rest); I'm pretty certain the almanac data is kept between power cycles, too. It also settles to 0 mph more quickly than the SkyRC unit. The font size is bigger for speed and max speed readings. I can download any number of GPS apps from the Google Play Store for free if this one doesn't work out. The main downside to using a phone is its size; it will need a more robust way to secure it to the car in case of a crash. A quick photo in direct sunlight... Both displays are washed out to a certain extent. The larger font size might make the phone easier to read in a video; maybe it won't be so washed out on an overcast day. If I had to do it all over again, I think I would save the money and not buy the SkyRC unit. Just grab an old phone and download an app. I also spent a little time on Google Maps trying to scout a decent location for a speed run attempt. Most of the roads around here have elevation changes and curves. There is possibly one road behind a local school that will work; it's about 1000 feet long and looks straight and flat. There are a few streets with dead ends that might work too. The local shopping mall might be an option at 7 AM before any stores open. I'm still looking around.
  3. speedy_w_beans

    How has the hobby affected your relationships?

    Like TurnipJF, my wife and I have our respective hobbies and we support each other in them. She loves to make quilts; on some of my overseas business trips she's tasked me with stopping in fabric stores and getting specific patterns for her. I'm happy to oblige because I know it makes her happy to have some 'exotic' fabric from southeast Asia or Europe that none of her quilting friends have. Similarly, if I voice some interest in a specific kit she's always encouraged me to pick one up. She's bought me a few kits for Christmas over the years, usually some of the nicer ones I couldn't justify buying myself. We both agree that real life takes priority (ala parenting, bills, taxes, work, etc.), but if all the bases are covered then there's no problem enjoying our respective hobbies. One of our children is out of the house now, and the other one has one more year of school to go, so hopefully the hobbies will help make the transition to an empty nest a little easier. We're approaching 25 years of marriage later this year; I can't imagine any facet of life without her.
  4. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    Yes, I'm thinking about cutting some aluminum sheet and riveting it to the chassis tub to mostly seal the floor. The bottom center of the tub protrudes a little, so with the right sheet profile I can make it flush with the plastic.
  5. speedy_w_beans

    Modelling and printing gears

    I'm thinking the design details of gear teeth are not very reproducible or durable given the typical 0.4 mm nozzle size of home 3D printers. Even with a smaller 0.2 mm nozzle, the available materials are not that great in printed form. If these are really rare and you want to make copies, I'd consider making a silicone mold of the original parts and then pouring a resin to cast copies. This article, in particular, caught my attention with the properties of resins available: https://makezine.com/2014/03/21/resin-casting-going-from-cad-to-engineering-grade-plastic-parts/ Instead of CNC milling the positive parts and making molds from them, just make the molds from the original parts you have. Just a thought to consider.
  6. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    I'm in the middle of prepping a basic TT02 for a speed run attempt and played with the body and tires today. There are some drivetrain upgrades still in the mail, so this is something that can be done while I wait for those parts. The body is a Protoform P47-N; it's meant for 200 mm wide touring cars, but I wanted something oversized relative to the TT02's narrower 182ish mm width. The result is the wheel arches remain intact to keep some air out and maintain the structure, and the front can steer completely without rubbing on the inside of the shell. I'm opting to keep the body clear so I can mount a GPS speedometer to the chassis and make it easily viewable while protecting it from crashes. Having a clear body also gives me some options for mounting a FPV camera if I want to try that later. The tires are Contact RC 35 shore foams meant for nitro touring cars. The idea here is to minimize expansion at speed to reduce the risk of a failure and maximize traction. The back of the shell might get some holes reamed into it eventually, but given the shell is designed with some downforce in mind already, it might be worth it to test as is.
  7. speedy_w_beans

    Recommended kit

    The easy answer we usually give to this question is Mad Bull.
  8. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    A little while ago I reported in the "postman brought me" thread I had purchased and received a 3Racing FGX EVO 2018 kit. While I still have a few other projects in the queue, I thought I would knock out a short build thread showing some details and reporting some impressions of the build experience. I know from my own searching there are other people on other sites who have done some builds and impressions of their own; the short story is the wheelbase is a little too long for certain racing rules and the weight is possibly +200 or +250 grams over a regular pan-style build, disqualifying it or putting it at a disadvantage from a racing perspective. With that said, I didn't buy the kit to race it. I've built a few Tamiya pan-style chassis and appreciate their lightness and simplicity, but I've also been eyeballing 3Racing's F1 chassis kits for a number of years including the F109, F113, and the original FGX. The F113 in particular caught my attention with all the carbon fiber, pink aluminum, and oil damper front suspension, but the kit went out of production by the time I got more serious about it. Somehow, too, I knew of the original FGX with its inboard independent suspension setup, but I ignored it and it went out of production too. When 3Racing announced the FGX EVO 2018 last year, I committed to buying one and finally getting a F1-style chassis with independent suspension. My real focus is on the suspension of this model and how it copes with unprepared street pavement. I've had a bit of a love/hate relationship with 3Racing over the years. A decade ago I put a set of their buggy dampers on a DF03 Dark Impact, and the shock shafts bent easily. On the other hand, I've used a number of their dampers on M, TT, and TB chassis, and I've been satisfied with them. I built a Sakura D3 drift chassis several years ago and had to immediately spend an extra 50% fixing the known issues of the chassis, and later I had to hack the chassis tub to fit a battery into it. But, I also built a Sakura D4 drift chassis and I can definitely say it is much improved over the D3. So in reading others' experiences with the FGX EVO 2018 so far, I don't have any problem with the wheelbase or extra weight. The one issue that might bite me at some point is possibly a weak front suspension block. It seems a few racers have tapped the wall and the front block has broken, leaving one side of the front suspension dangling. We'll take a closer look at this when I get to that point in the build. 3Racing isn't the first to bring inboard, cantilevered, independent suspension to a F1 chassis. Tamiya did exactly this with their F201 chassis years ago. In fact, TC member tamkyo posted pictures of his F201 with 3Racing carbon chassis conversion back in 2007: In some respects you could say 3Racing's experience designing a carbon chassis for the F201 likely led to their own development of the original FGX and now the FGX EVO 2018. Tamiya hasn't re-released the F201, so to get a quick easy taste of this architecture the FGX EVO 2018 will do for only $110 USD at RCMart. You can see the similarities between the F201 and the FGX/FGX EVO 2018 in one of pininy's showroom entries from 2018. The EVO is like a F201, just 2WD instead of 4WD. Onward with the unboxing! 3Racing is offering the kit in four versions currently; the only difference between them is the color of the included body (red, green, blue, clear). Normally I would go for a clear body and paint it to my preferences, but I'm leaning towards using this chassis for something other than F1 later. A prepainted body accelerates the build and keeps it simple with just chassis and electronics; later I'll shelve the body and reuse the chassis. Here's the box. And here are the parts bags in the box. Diff, chassis, steering, suspension, dampers, wings, tires, and detail parts are all included. The bagging and bag labeling are all typical 3Racing. The decal sheet is generic but just fine for a budget build. The manual is done in 3Racing's usual style, but I was a little surprised to see them use a short binder strap to hold the pages together. It's almost like they ran the manual through a photocopier and hole punch, then went to the local office supply store and stocked up on straps. On one hand the pages come apart easily if you want to lay them out one at a time; on the other hand, a stapled book seems a little more professional to me. I know, I'm showing some of my weirdness here, but the binder strap kind of bothers me! This isn't a service manual for a diesel engine or ag tractor! Their D3 and D4 manuals weren't like this! Here's the prepainted body. Overall it's pretty nice with only a few minor complaints. The side pods are installed properly, but for some reason the front of the pod section doesn't line up with the main body properly. It's not a big deal; this can be trimmed easily. The pods are joined to the main body with some sort of clear adhesive. I didn't pull on the pods that hard, but they do seem to be held in place pretty well. A little more trimming and sanding needed at the rear of the body as well... Overall it's not bad. The body just needs a little more work to make it nice, but no painting is required. I'll likely get into the build itself tomorrow. As mentioned earlier, the intention is to knock this out, note anything of interest along the way, maybe do a quick test drive and get some impressions, and then repurpose the chassis if I like it. You can look at this build thread as a tour of the design, materials, and assembly process more than anything else. More to come...
  9. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    Nice!
  10. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    Received a Protoform P-47 body, foam tires, and a steel pinion for my base-level TT02...
  11. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiyaclub USA Members

    Tamiyaclub USA members.... Sound off! Any of you in or near NC?
  12. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    Have you considered a dual action random orbital polisher? It might expedite the process. I've been watching videos about these to possibly shave some time off waxing the cars but have concluded they work best for paint improvement/restoration. They're overkill for modern liquid waxes used on already decent paint. Maybe mount a larger scouring pad to the DA, keep the speed low at first, and go for some light passes to see if it works well. Harbor Freight has these for $69 (and less with a coupon); there are some good YouTube videos on using these tools to improve paint. Full disclaimer: I've never used one and I've never faced an aggressive paint restoration like you are. It's just an idea that doesn't seem too expensive and might get you to the finish line 10x faster. I'd be worried about burning through the paint too easily, though.
  13. speedy_w_beans

    So, What Have You Done Today?

    We've had a weather pattern for the past month where it rains on the weekends and is clear during the work week; while it was raining today I took a few hours to put together a base TT02 on-road chassis (not a D, R, or S variant). With no hopups to add complexity, and no desire to take pictures or do a build thread, and no grand plans to stress over, it was just a relaxing way to burn a few hours.
  14. speedy_w_beans

    The "The Manhattan Project" Project

    Neat! I like seeing others' custom work.
  15. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    About a week ago my son reported the Playstation 3 wasn't loading discs anymore; it would boot and run apps from the internal hard drive, but it seemed like the optical disc drive had died. Researching this issue on the Internet I was surprised by the number of hardware versions and the number of supported regions Sony deployed over the years. You have to fully disassemble the console, and even disassemble the optical drive, to know which laser assembly to buy with certainty. Anyhow, I ordered a new laser/stepper/spindle assembly for about $17 off eBay; it arrived yesterday. This evening I put it in the old drive's mechanical housing and reassembled the console. It booted fine and loaded game discs again, so mission accomplished! With Sony discontinuing production of the PS3 as of this March, I'm happy repairs are still possible with inexpensive new parts. Here's the old one:
  16. speedy_w_beans

    The "postman Brought Me" Thread

    On a bit of a 3Racing kick lately with FGX EVO (F1) and M4 (Mini) chassis builds; these chassis kits (touring & drift) showed up today to get the critical eye by yours truly.
  17. I imagine slipping through the wind and passing everyone on the highway with this...
  18. speedy_w_beans

    East coast of USA meet up in North Carolina?

    PM'd you some contact info.
  19. speedy_w_beans

    How to stop being a newbie...

    There are only degrees of newbie-ness; no one ever escapes!
  20. speedy_w_beans

    Tamiya PTFE sealsed bearings?

    Tamiya was probably trying to optimize on low torque / low friction characteristics with type L seals: shield type link If you look at the cross sections of the bearings, the Buna-N (type D) and Viton (type D1) seals are what we normally call "rubber shielded" bearings. Those get used for off-road. Note there are PTFE seals (Q and Q4) that seem better at sealing than the type L seals. If you look at ball bearing listings on eBay there are many with seal/shield codes in them (ZZ, for example). Some of these are optimized for friction/torque, others for sealing characteristics... You can read all day about ball bearings in some of these catalogs: NTN and SKF/MRC
  21. speedy_w_beans

    Comical Hornet WR02CB

    It didn't strike me until now, but I do think the front tires on this Comical Hornet would make a nice upgrade for the Tumbling Bull. I never really liked the front chevron tires on that model.
  22. speedy_w_beans

    Matchbox cars

    A few Hot Wheels from my childhood 45 years ago... I was surprised my parents saved these and gave them to me a few years ago. Here are some of the best from my small 20-car collection; they were all loved and used frequently. My son has a full set of Highway 35 and Acceleracers in his closet.
  23. speedy_w_beans

    Why are you still using Facebook?

    Never used it; never will.
  24. speedy_w_beans

    3D printers - where to start?

    I suppose you have to start with your end goals in mind; what exactly do you want to make? That answer leads to the materials you might use (PLA, ABS, nylon, PETG, TPU), which then determines the temperature range of the nozzle and whether a heated print bed and sealed enclosure are needed. Also, what you want to make will drive the build volume (X/Y/Z print size). PLA is relatively safe to print indoors, but the other materials can emit some noxious fumes and are better to print in a garage or workshop away from you. The machines come in several variations and each does something better than the others. Delta/Kossel type machines are great if need a lot of Z axis for tall prints. Some Cartesian type machines have the extruder motor right above the print head; these are better for TPU flexible materials. The standard Cartesian type machine with a remote extruder motor and Teflon feed tube is most common, though. There are some amenities/preferences to consider as well. Some printers have LCD user interfaces and SD card readers built into them; others only have a USB connection and require a PC to be the UI. Some will connect to a WiFi network. There's the workflow element to it as well. Which design tool, which slicer, which UI/controller are a few others aspects to consider. Rhino, FreeCAD, SketchUp are all programs you can use to make shapes. Cura, Slic3r are programs that can take those shapes and generate layers for printing. Marlin, Repetier are common firmware options used in the printers themselves for printing those layers. I have one of the cheapest, least capable printers out there but it gets the job done (mostly). It supports PLA, has a a 150x150x150 mm build volume, is Cartesian with Teflon feed tube and remote extruder motor, and has a LCD UI with SD card reader. I use FreeCAD for design, Slic3r for making the layers and gcode for the printer, and the printer runs Repetier firmware. It works ok. It took 2 days to build and calibrate the printer, but it is pretty usable and repeatable now. Printed parts do not have the surface finish of injection-molded parts. Be prepared to use filler putty, primer, and sand paper to smooth things out before painting them. Also note that structural parts are not as strong as injection-molded parts and have to be overbuilt to compensate. I'm looking into smaller nozzles (0.2 mm vs. 0.4 mm standard) to see if I can get some better quality prints. 3D printing is not a fast technology. You can invest hours, if not tens of hours, designing parts depending on complexity and printer limitations. Time to print depends on part size and layer thickness; a custom wheel could take an hour or two. As a quick suggestion, take a look at the i3 Prusa style machines out there. They'll probably do most of what you want and are based on a popular design. It's an interesting tool to have available for making parts, but it does have limitations. Good luck!
  25. speedy_w_beans

    East coast of USA meet up in North Carolina?

    I'd be game for this. You're in Raleigh, right? If you ever want to get together and shoot the breeze on RC or meet somewhere to drive a few things, let me know.