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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. That body looks great on that chassis!
  2. More street-style fun: And some F1 and LeMans: What's interesting is over time I keep looking at some of these cars, and I realize if I just go back to some of these projects I can improve them with some fine-line tape, maybe a few 3D-printed parts, and some homemade decals to bring out more realism. Just because the shell was "finished" years ago doesn't mean improvements can't still be made. In that sense projects are never truly done.
  3. A few other US-based RC businesses still going at it; most of them have 30+ years in the hobby. Calandra Racing Concepts (Team CRC): 1/12, 1/10, and F1 pan cars located in New York John's BSR Racing Tires: 1/12, 1/10 foam and capped foam tires located in Ohio Castle Creations: ESCs/motors located in Kansas City JConcepts: bodies, wheels, and tires based in Florida (much like Pro-Line/Protoform) MIP: all sorts of drivetrain and shock parts, as well as tools, in California RPM: many different molded plastic upgrade parts to improve durability, located in California Robinson Racing: pinions, spurs, slipper clutches based in California You could probably build 90% of a custom car just sourcing items from these companies.
  4. If you look at the listings at RCMart and Stellamodels, several models are listed with ESCs at this point, so it doesn't seem to be a USA-only thing (anymore?). @Hibernaculum, so where are you going with this? There are plenty of modern Tamiya kits still made in Japan. Our family has generations of Lego kits -- kits my parents played with, kits I played with, kits my son and daughter played with. Some were made in Denmark and others in Hungary; we might even have a Mexico kit here and there. It never made any difference to us; Lego quality seems to be consistent regardless of when and where the bricks were molded and boxes/manuals were printed. It's pretty amazing to see a 1960s Lego brick still mate perfectly with a 2010s brick. I'm guessing the headquarters in Denmark has made absolutely sure through their design/development/manufacturing processes that all Lego-brand products make the same good impression on their customers. Likewise, I would expect Tamiya's culture is enforced strictly in the Philippines. In fact, I'm even more convinced of this because I visited a Japanese touch panel manufacturer (SMK) at their Philippines plant a decade ago. Though the factory floor was filled with Filipino workers, the shift leaders, management, and on-site engineers were all Japanese. The machinery was modern, and clean room conditions were maintained to guarantee no dust between the touch panel and LCD module. In the USA we see similar things at Hondajet. I don't work there, but the word on the street is there may be quite a few Americans trained in aviation manufacturing and many Americans knowledgeable in aviation maintenance and avionics, but all management and significant engineering functions are filled with Japanese. The stories/anecdotes suggest the Japanese strictly enforce their culture there. It's good business practice no matter what business you're in -- you send representatives of your culture to your new manufacturing location and make sure things are done your way. Some of the American companies I worked for designated people to go overseas or to go to Latin America to make sure things were done per corporate culture. Anyhow, like @Juggular says, we're all free to enjoy the hobby however we want. Hopefully the data on my kits' manufacturing origins satisfies your curiosity.
  5. From my point of view, if it has FRP, carbon fiber, meaningful metal content, performance, or nice detailing it gets made in Japan still. The F103GT/F104W releases, the Unimog releases, the tractor trucks and tanks, TA/TB/FF on-road, DN and DB buggies, CC and CR, and most TRF come from Japan. It seems like most of the ABS plastic, self-tapping screw, leisure-oriented models come from the Philippines. Many DT and DF, TT01 and TT02, M, and CW chassis come from there. With the 801X and 801XT models being USA-only and sourced/made in Taiwan, that suggests a unique management decision about the product back in the day. I haven't looked at this one in detail, but I think export/import laws don't require 100% pure content to marked made somewhere. In other words, Tamiya could be sourcing some percentage of content from China but the product is kitted and boxed in Japan, therefore it gets a "Made in Japan" marking. It's a global economy now so I would not expect a kit to be 100% of anything.
  6. Japan TB03 all bodies and VDS TB04 both gens of PRO and EVO 6 EVO 7 TA06R DN01 Zahhak Philippines Subaru BRAT And to throw off the whole Japan/Philippines discussion, TRF801X and TRF801XT are made in Taiwan. I'm a modern/re-release collector only, ask me anything...
  7. Japan TRF416X XR311 Scania R620 Grand Hauler CR01 Unimog 406 Bruiser Pershing M26 Group C R91CP F104W Lotus 79 F104W Wolf WR1 F103 Tyrrell P34 Japan GP F104W 312T3 F104 PRO II F103GT Toyota TS050 F103GT Nissan GTR LM Nismo TRF201 (42167) FF03 Civic VTi FF03 Civic Type R R3 FF03R FF04 Evo TA05IFS bodied variants All TA05V2 variants including bodied, VDF, GLD, and R All DB01 variants including bodied, R, and RR TRF417V5 CC01 Unimog 425 Philippines M05 Mini Cooper Racing M06 Alpine A110 TT02 Impreza '99 TT02D Civic, RX7, Supra TT01 Racing Truck family
  8. Nothing I own is more than 9 years old at this point, so scanning the boxes on my shelf I have the following from Japan. Note, these were purchased over the course of 9 years, not all at once, so production could have always moved in the interim. I'm just looking at the boxes and cataloguing for analysis. Japan DF01 Top Force (2017) SRB Sand Scorcher (2010) SRB Buggy Champ (2009) TT01R Type-E Chassis Kit RM01 Tom's 84C RM01 Porsche 956 RM01 Mazda 787B CC01 Unimog 406 DF03 Dark Impact GF01 Heavy Dump Truck Philippines FAV CW01 Lunch Box DT01 Mad Bull WR02G Tumbling Bull Grasshopper Grasshopper II DF02 Plasma Edge TT02B Plasma Edge II
  9. I have two soldering irons as well. The 25W pencil-tip iron works well for fine-gauge work, but struggles with battery/ESC/motor wiring with the heavier 8 and 10 gauge wires involved. I found an old 60W chisel-tip iron from when I tried working on stained glass windows years ago, and it's perfect for installing 4mm bullets on wires, wires on 120A ESCs, and wires on brushless motor tabs. That extra power gets everything up to temperature more quickly, so there's less frustration flowing solder into the joint. You just don't want to overdo it and start burning ESC and motor internals though; as soon as the joint has enough solder in it remove heat immediately.
  10. What does the "L: 451mm" mean in the lower right corner?
  11. This might help you choose some different springs: The measurements for the Heavy Dump Truck springs are at the bottom of the table. The spring rates for.the on-road/rally set or some of the buggy front dampers might help. I upgraded to CC01 CVA dampers, regular kit springs, and I think 3000 CST oil for some slower movement. My goal was to slow the movement down to be more scale-realistic, not for better bashing.
  12. I had no idea this was a thing! What the heck is this all about??? (Not mine, of course... Image lifted from here.)
  13. Great photography; this chassis looks awesome!
  14. It drives very well on the beach; the long stroke of the CR01 dampers soaks up the bumps where people walk through dry sand. In the packed wet sand it picks up speed and is very stable. You can do long side-to-side power slides in the packed sand. In the street it's a little top-heavy; the tires actually have some grip and it's easier to roll it if you're not careful. But on the beach it works well.
  15. Interesting. This is the gyro I used: https://hobbyking.com/de_de/trackstar-d-spec-drift-gyro-v2.html Initially I just used the trimpot on the front panel to set the gain, but later found it convenient to use a third channel with EPA instead. I noticed the gyro worked best with fast servos; the 0.2 second transit specs of cheap standard servos means there is a lot of delay and therefore instability, so the gain has to be kept low. If you use a fast servo in the 0.05 to 0.08 second range then there is less delay and the gain can be turned up some. Too much gain and the steering chatters while driving straight. Not enough gain and the steering isn't compensated enough, and spinning out still happens easily. Mounting the gyro is important. A good isolation tape/pad prevents vibrations from the chassis affecting it. I mounted a gyro on top of a servo once, but the noise from the servo registered with the gyro and created a nasty feedback effect. A separate mounting location on the chassis works better.
  16. If you look closely at the front damper on my Wheely King, you'll see a fairly long preload spacer on top of the spring. I made that by cutting corrugated wire loom to length; it clamps the damper body well and provides nearly 20 mm of preload. I had removed the sway bar from the chassis to get more articulation, but that made it susceptible to torque twist from the prop shafts. I wanted to keep the same spring rate but add some preload to fight the torque twist, so this was an easy and cheap way to do it. There's also silicone tubing (nitro fuel tubing) on the damper shafts to limit movement so the body doesn't scrape on the tires. Wire loom:
  17. A pair of Nissans for your pleasure... And some street-style vehicles too...
  18. If you want to experiment a little, lighter fluid or kerosene can be used to soften tires and add some traction. These substances are typically banned at tracks for safety and odor reasons, but if you're just playing in front of the house there's nothing wrong with giving these common fluids a try. I do think the porous nature of street asphalt doesn't lend itself well to slick tires; HPI X-Patterns were rated pretty highly for street bashing when they were produced. Something with a tread pattern, softened with some lighter fluid, might give you what you're after. Don't forget to give a gyro a try for the steering. I found it nearly doubled the perceived rear end grip on my RM01 chassis when I was experimenting with different tires. The gyro catches the rear end stepping out much faster than you can remotely.
  19. Stargek in Singapore was a good experience; this was 7-8 years ago when I went. They had pretty much everything Tamiya made in that store, including the trucks, tanks, and all the off-road and on-road chassis. Lots of supplies and promo items, parts trees hanging on the wall, hopups, etc. I bought a pair of TRF201 (42167) chassis kits from them and packed them in the suitcase for the ride home.
  20. I just see the Limitless and Infraction as responses to Traxxas' XO-1 that came out years ago. You might remember the XO-1 was priced at about $800 and required some unlocking to get the full 100 mph potential. The alternative was to buy a cheap OFNA/Hong Nor/Hobao 1/8 GT chassis and dropping a 6S brushless setup in it. So, ARMMA is offering an alternative to the 1/8 GT chassis, but you still have to buy the electronics to make it go fast. How to disassemble an XO-1 in less than a second (with glorious slow-mo replay):
  21. Yes, the three-hole 1 mm pistons provided a little more damping than the one-hole 1.5 mm piston. That might sound counterintuitive given the hole areas (about 50 pct more area for the three hole setup), but the TRF-type pistons sealed against the CVA bodies better and the 1 mm holes pack up sooner than the 1.5 mm hole. Anyhow, I remember building them and thinking how they felt more damped in hand, and how the chassis showed good damping in a kitchen counter drop test. I'd love to have a shock dyno someday to generate numbers. I can measure spring constants pretty well, but I don't have a way to measure force vs. velocity.
  22. I think I found the same thing as you; my measurements and change to TRF-style pistons are documented here: In my case I had some spare pistons lying around and they fit very nicely in the on-road CVA bodies. I haven't tried this with the taller off-road CVA bodies.
  23. I did a comparison between TT01 and TT02 chassis here:
  24. Agree with topforcein. If you have the D9 parts then head down to the local hardware store and source some M3x10 or M3x12 screws and some M3 washers. If you don't have the D9 parts then add some M3 nylon lock nuts to the purchase. If you want the "official Tamiya" parts, then hit up eBay using the part numbers from the manual here.
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