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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. Nothing I own is more than 9 years old at this point, so scanning the boxes on my shelf I have the following from Japan. Note, these were purchased over the course of 9 years, not all at once, so production could have always moved in the interim. I'm just looking at the boxes and cataloguing for analysis. Japan DF01 Top Force (2017) SRB Sand Scorcher (2010) SRB Buggy Champ (2009) TT01R Type-E Chassis Kit RM01 Tom's 84C RM01 Porsche 956 RM01 Mazda 787B CC01 Unimog 406 DF03 Dark Impact GF01 Heavy Dump Truck Philippines FAV CW01 Lunch Box DT01 Mad Bull WR02G Tumbling Bull Grasshopper Grasshopper II DF02 Plasma Edge TT02B Plasma Edge II
  2. I have two soldering irons as well. The 25W pencil-tip iron works well for fine-gauge work, but struggles with battery/ESC/motor wiring with the heavier 8 and 10 gauge wires involved. I found an old 60W chisel-tip iron from when I tried working on stained glass windows years ago, and it's perfect for installing 4mm bullets on wires, wires on 120A ESCs, and wires on brushless motor tabs. That extra power gets everything up to temperature more quickly, so there's less frustration flowing solder into the joint. You just don't want to overdo it and start burning ESC and motor internals though; as soon as the joint has enough solder in it remove heat immediately.
  3. What does the "L: 451mm" mean in the lower right corner?
  4. This might help you choose some different springs: The measurements for the Heavy Dump Truck springs are at the bottom of the table. The spring rates for.the on-road/rally set or some of the buggy front dampers might help. I upgraded to CC01 CVA dampers, regular kit springs, and I think 3000 CST oil for some slower movement. My goal was to slow the movement down to be more scale-realistic, not for better bashing.
  5. I had no idea this was a thing! What the heck is this all about??? (Not mine, of course... Image lifted from here.)
  6. Great photography; this chassis looks awesome!
  7. It drives very well on the beach; the long stroke of the CR01 dampers soaks up the bumps where people walk through dry sand. In the packed wet sand it picks up speed and is very stable. You can do long side-to-side power slides in the packed sand. In the street it's a little top-heavy; the tires actually have some grip and it's easier to roll it if you're not careful. But on the beach it works well.
  8. Interesting. This is the gyro I used: https://hobbyking.com/de_de/trackstar-d-spec-drift-gyro-v2.html Initially I just used the trimpot on the front panel to set the gain, but later found it convenient to use a third channel with EPA instead. I noticed the gyro worked best with fast servos; the 0.2 second transit specs of cheap standard servos means there is a lot of delay and therefore instability, so the gain has to be kept low. If you use a fast servo in the 0.05 to 0.08 second range then there is less delay and the gain can be turned up some. Too much gain and the steering chatters while driving straight. Not enough gain and the steering isn't compensated enough, and spinning out still happens easily. Mounting the gyro is important. A good isolation tape/pad prevents vibrations from the chassis affecting it. I mounted a gyro on top of a servo once, but the noise from the servo registered with the gyro and created a nasty feedback effect. A separate mounting location on the chassis works better.
  9. If you look closely at the front damper on my Wheely King, you'll see a fairly long preload spacer on top of the spring. I made that by cutting corrugated wire loom to length; it clamps the damper body well and provides nearly 20 mm of preload. I had removed the sway bar from the chassis to get more articulation, but that made it susceptible to torque twist from the prop shafts. I wanted to keep the same spring rate but add some preload to fight the torque twist, so this was an easy and cheap way to do it. There's also silicone tubing (nitro fuel tubing) on the damper shafts to limit movement so the body doesn't scrape on the tires. Wire loom:
  10. A pair of Nissans for your pleasure... And some street-style vehicles too...
  11. If you want to experiment a little, lighter fluid or kerosene can be used to soften tires and add some traction. These substances are typically banned at tracks for safety and odor reasons, but if you're just playing in front of the house there's nothing wrong with giving these common fluids a try. I do think the porous nature of street asphalt doesn't lend itself well to slick tires; HPI X-Patterns were rated pretty highly for street bashing when they were produced. Something with a tread pattern, softened with some lighter fluid, might give you what you're after. Don't forget to give a gyro a try for the steering. I found it nearly doubled the perceived rear end grip on my RM01 chassis when I was experimenting with different tires. The gyro catches the rear end stepping out much faster than you can remotely.
  12. Stargek in Singapore was a good experience; this was 7-8 years ago when I went. They had pretty much everything Tamiya made in that store, including the trucks, tanks, and all the off-road and on-road chassis. Lots of supplies and promo items, parts trees hanging on the wall, hopups, etc. I bought a pair of TRF201 (42167) chassis kits from them and packed them in the suitcase for the ride home.
  13. I just see the Limitless and Infraction as responses to Traxxas' XO-1 that came out years ago. You might remember the XO-1 was priced at about $800 and required some unlocking to get the full 100 mph potential. The alternative was to buy a cheap OFNA/Hong Nor/Hobao 1/8 GT chassis and dropping a 6S brushless setup in it. So, ARMMA is offering an alternative to the 1/8 GT chassis, but you still have to buy the electronics to make it go fast. How to disassemble an XO-1 in less than a second (with glorious slow-mo replay):
  14. Yes, the three-hole 1 mm pistons provided a little more damping than the one-hole 1.5 mm piston. That might sound counterintuitive given the hole areas (about 50 pct more area for the three hole setup), but the TRF-type pistons sealed against the CVA bodies better and the 1 mm holes pack up sooner than the 1.5 mm hole. Anyhow, I remember building them and thinking how they felt more damped in hand, and how the chassis showed good damping in a kitchen counter drop test. I'd love to have a shock dyno someday to generate numbers. I can measure spring constants pretty well, but I don't have a way to measure force vs. velocity.
  15. I think I found the same thing as you; my measurements and change to TRF-style pistons are documented here: In my case I had some spare pistons lying around and they fit very nicely in the on-road CVA bodies. I haven't tried this with the taller off-road CVA bodies.
  16. I did a comparison between TT01 and TT02 chassis here:
  17. Agree with topforcein. If you have the D9 parts then head down to the local hardware store and source some M3x10 or M3x12 screws and some M3 washers. If you don't have the D9 parts then add some M3 nylon lock nuts to the purchase. If you want the "official Tamiya" parts, then hit up eBay using the part numbers from the manual here.
  18. It's worth the $311 USD (including shipping) it takes to buy a Rock Socker from RCMart; it's not worth the $500 USD MAP to get it from a US-based retailer. Some of the latest "builder's kits" available from other brands are the way to go right now. You're going to want different tires, different wheels, different springs and shocks, hardened prop shafts and axles anyhow. So why start with a kit where only half the parts will be used? Just build it the way you like starting with one of these stripped-down builder's kits.
  19. Not a silly thing at all! Take a look at all the thoughts Nic Case put into his 202 mph car: https://www.rccaraction.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Worlds-Fastest-RC-Car.pdf
  20. This is the first competition I entered; submitting the picture seemed easy enough, but how does one vote? There aren't any instructions on how to do this. Do you view all the photos, click on one, and "add to favourites?" Or is there some other way to cast a vote? How many votes can be cast?
  21. Busy week this week... I can't remember what happened on Tuesday, but Wednesday was a combination of reviewing service manuals for our Silverado work truck, preparing a list of parts and fluids for maintenance, and then spending the evening chipping out damaged mortar from the front steps of our house. The better part of Thursday was spent mixing and applying new mortar to the front steps; then in the afternoon my wife and I went around town collecting the parts and fluids needed. Friday I touched up a few brick joints missed on Thursday and finished the parts and fluid shopping as the service manual called out some gear oil for the rear axle that isn't very common. In the end I switched from 75W85 to 75W90 as several people posted on the Silverado forums making the switch and not seeing issues. Saturday I spent the better part of the day teaching my son how to do maintenance on the truck; he uses it daily to get to his aviation maintenance classes at the local college and eventually I will sign the title over to him when he gets a job, but he needs to learn how to do these things as he may move away or I'll move away for another job. Various air filters, engine oil and filter, rear diff oil and gasket, and transmission fluid/filter/gasket were all changed. Fortunately, with the service manuals and several post-it notes serving as bookmarks, it's not that difficult to follow instructions and just use the book procedures verbatim. Today we finished the maintenance work by bleeding brakes. The pads and rotors are still good, and it isn't quite time to do coolant yet. So, it was just a little more effort to finish off the truck. It's in prime shape now for another few years. I really need to take the TT02 out for some real speed runs; I have some new batteries and they have been cycled on the charger a few times this week. There's no excuse left (other than the 94F heat!) to not try a few runs and see what the car can do. RC has been low priority lately.
  22. I like the stopwatch in the center of the radio wheel; that's an interesting way to let someone manually log lap times.
  23. That's too bad it rubs, because the overall look is perfect! Any chance to give the body another 5 mm of lift or something else to help with clearance?
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