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speedy_w_beans

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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. Designed and printed a GPS tray for my TT02 today; it takes the place of the kit upper bumper cover. I have an XL urethane bumper to install in lieu of the drift bumper. The GPS is held in place with some Velcro plus the body lightly pushes down on it too. This also provides the added benefit of keeping the body's nose from folding under at speed. So I'm pretty pleased with this as the GPS is protected inside the body yet is still visible for filming/photos. I have some other designs in the works for a battery strap and a fan/wiring mount; hopefully I can get to those tomorrow.
  2. @Juggernut, in your original post you say you're looking at M3x12 stainless tapping screws, but the photo of the listing seems to show machine screws. Which are you after? Just trying to save you from a regretful purchase...
  3. Worked on my Tamiyaclub "Motion" contest entry. It took a bit of trial and error, but I was finally happy with this TRF801XT shot...
  4. I see some old chatter on RCTech announcing the Mazdaspeed 6 body around November 2006; AMain Hobbies seemed to start carrying it in January 2007. So, I guess it's possible Mr. MR may have had access to it for his use. Color-wise, I have no idea. The body pictures I see make it look like the body was airbrushed, which likely means non-Tamiya colors by whoever the artist was. You'll have to do your best to grab images and experiment with different paint to get the same tones.
  5. This seems like the ultimate solution: Oldfrogshot's Screw Mod
  6. MSXX MR Edition These instructions are supplementary to the base MSXX instructions. MSXX Base Instructions Tamiya Manual Page
  7. How's your motor pinion? Is it the original aluminum one? If so, how do the teeth look? The typical kit aluminum pinions can wear, and the teeth take on a sawtooth shape leading to some extra noise from the gearbox. Steel pinions are available and wear a lot better over time. Also double-check your pinion tooth count vs. motor mounting holes. If the axle stubs seem to be running true then your wheels might be slightly warped; that's not all that unusual especially on a used model. I wouldn't worry about it much.
  8. I liked my 3Racing M4 Sport chassis so much the postman brought me another one today...
  9. Dog bone rattle? What happens when you remove the dog bones and run the transmission without them? Also, the video shows the wheels have some runout, but what about the tips of the axle stubs themselves; do they run true?
  10. Nice piece of history! Something to tease you (link).
  11. Wouldn't the TA06 be the perfect 2WD touring car as it is currently set up? The placement and direction of the battery makes it pretty good from a mass centralization / minimum roll inertia perspective. The rear transmission is sealed and all gears, too. You could almost build this chassis as-is and just leave the center belt, front belt, front diff, and front dog bones out of it. The TA06 didn't get much love when it came out, but it could carry some corner speed and did well if someone worked with it. This YouTube video made an impression on me; the TA06 starts out in pole position and just keeps growing its lead the whole time. In particular, the way it handles that really tight turn in the middle of the track is impressive. I think people gave up on the TA06 and turned them all into drift cars a little too quickly. Much like the DF03 buggy chassis, the battery and motor are along the center of the chassis which makes weight transitions due to steering happen a little more quickly. You don't need to move weight quite as quickly for braking and accelerating; weight transfer due to steering should dictate component placement in a chassis in my opinion. I was thinking the other day that things are starting to get cyclical with touring car designs: The TA07 is much like a Losi XXX-S with the single center belt. Granted the chassis structure is different, but the drivetrain concept is very similar. The TB EVO7 kind of looks like a throwback to the TB03VDS with the front motor mount option and central stiffening spine. Again, a different chassis structure, but a similar drivetrain concept. I randomly ran into a posting about someone making a central motor option for Xray T4 touring chassis; this is basically a throwback to the TA05 design (link). Are we constrained by component "standards," e.g., 540 motor size, full and shorty hard case LiPo sizes, standard and low profile servo sizes, etc.? What can you do if you start robbing components from airplanes, helicopters, and boats? Sorry, just a bit of rambling / random musings... I'm intrigued by the thought process each designer went through when he designed his own touring car.
  12. Nice work with the lead pouring. Really a nice project through and through!
  13. I can relate to how draining face-to-face interactions can be. I love engineering and I love being "in the zone" working on a design, but as I was promoted up the ranks to project leader, department manager, and technology strategist the quantity of meetings and emails shot up exponentially. All of this overhead time spent guiding people, answering questions, thinking about the future, putting out fires, making tradeoff decisions, etc. just wore me down. Especially chasing after people who weren't performing. It really did feel like a daily drag; I couldn't wait for the weekends and I groaned every Monday morning. Fortunately, my employer did me a favor and made me redundant a year ago after 15 years of service, and I've been taking a career break for this past year. I'm just starting to feel like coming back to the workforce again; I was mentally exhausted and needed to work on house projects, car projects, hobby projects, etc. to enjoy some quiet time and let some feelings go. I wish you the best of luck in your new position; I don't have any words of advice. All I know is when the number of human interactions goes up substantially it can definitely be draining. I had to set some hard limits to survive and needed some off time eventually.
  14. A few days late and a few dollars short... Two weekends ago I posted about cleaning out my daughter's bedroom and erecting shelving for my wife's fabric and my RC stuff. It was easy enough to get the long-term NIBs up on the shelves and out of the way. This past weekend I spent the better part of a day cleaning up my work area and the room immediately next to it; some short-term NIBs, some projects in process, and several bins of parts, wheels/tires, electronics, and tools found their way onto the shelves as well. It was really nice to de-clutter these two rooms and enjoy the feeling of more open space again. Things had gotten out of hand and there were so many loose items in my work area and the adjacent room that I didn't even feel like working on RC cars anymore; now there's some room to spread out and make some progress again. Maybe some of you can relate to the clutter/motivation conundrum?
  15. If you can get a TEU-104BK to work with your battery, motor, receiver, and radio properly, and the TEU-101BK doesn't work (assuming it is installed the exact same way as the TEU-104BK, and you're using the settings button the same way), then I'd have to assume the TEU-101BK is broken. The button might be broken, or maybe even the power electronics that run the motor are burnt even though the microcontroller that's inside is still blinking the LED. Probably not worth your time given new brushed ESCs can be had for as little as $10 these days (example). Is the WP-1040 working for you then?
  16. Looks like there is no button - Manual. You wait 3 seconds with the throttle in neutral and it self-calibrates. Options are set with jumpers.
  17. Maybe the setup push button on the TEU101 is broken; I've had that happen to one TEU in the past and I simply tossed it. Check out Hobbywing's Quicrun brushed ESCs.
  18. What value of resistor did you install, and did you install it between the battery positive terminal and the ESC? You can measure voltage drop across the resistor with a meter while the model is running; put one lead on each terminal of the resistor and read the value. The voltage drop will not be constant, though; it depends on motor current which in turn depends on how much load the chassis sees. Wheelies, fast starts, driving through tall grass, going up hill, etc. will draw more current and cause a higher voltage drop than a model suspended in the air or coasting/cruising on a flat road surface. Therefore your cutoff voltage for the battery pack keeps changing with driving conditions. All that current flowing through a resistor is turned into heat and is energy that didn't make it to the motor. As others have suggested, a LiPo cutoff alarm is the better route.
  19. Tamiya makes a range of 0.5 mod pinions for the DF-03 chassis (Dark Impact/Keen Hawk/Avante MkII). Also, some RC helicopters use 0.5 mod pinions; Hobbyking has some if you search on "0.5 pinion."
  20. Today I put the final touch on our minivan's maintenance and repairs. Recently I changed all the rotors and brake pads, replaced a damaged fender liner, replaced a temperature control motor for the HVAC, replaced a stuck seat belt, fixed glove box and door trim rattles, and did a full fluid and filter swap. We were driving somewhere at night and I noticed the light bulb illuminating the shift lever markings was flickering and ultimately burned out; today I put a new bulb in the center console, and our 170,000 mile / 270,000 km Honda Odyssey is nearly perfect again! In celebration of 9 solid years transporting the family everywhere comfortably without any major problems or failures: Also, I celebrated another small milestone today. After a year of ripping, transcoding, organizing, storing, and backing up all sorts of video content, the last video was transcoded and stored today. Virtually every piece of disc media in our house is now available on our home network including all of our music, videos, and Playstation games. All the Hi8 and digital camcorder footage of the kids when they were young is on the network now too. The last goal is to scan the thousands of paper photographs we have in albums and get those on our home network. All of our phones, tablets, PCs, and Playstations will be able to access this content at home. It's going to be so nice not having to access and manage physical media (finding what you want, putting it away, trying to keep it in order, etc.).
  21. The last of the electronics, some thermometers with remote sensors, showed up today for my TT02 speed run car. The game plan: The LiPo will pass through a Lemonhobby 180A power analyzer and capture minimum voltage, maximum current, maximum power, and energy consumed for the system. After the power analyzer, power will split between the ESC and a 6V/3A BEC. The BEC will feed a 20A power analyzer to capture minimum voltage and maximum current of the downstream receiver, gyro, and servo. I'll remove the BEC power wire from the ESC and just have signal and ground running to the radio receiver so it doesn't conflict with the external BEC. The ESC BEC will probably power the motor cooling fan. The ESC will have its phases and sensor wire connected to the motor. Three thermometers will measure battery, ESC, and motor temperatures. The GPS will capture top speed. Hopefully I'll get some interesting data. It's going to take some creative packaging to make it all fit.
  22. Maybe; I think @Raman36 has mentioned in the past he was able to tame a M06 or M04 with wider rear tires. Maybe he can comment on your CAD rendering with his experience.
  23. I can't seem to edit my post, but for a historical perspective also consider Associated's RC10DS (Dual Sport) RWD touring car: Manual
  24. You're somewhat heading in the same direction as a 3Racing Sakura D4 RWD drift chassis. Central motor placed ahead of the rear axle, central transverse battery, RWD only... The key difference you have is the placement of the servo and ESC. You can save some room by placing the receiver on top of the servo. You may want to dedicate some room for a gyro like the GC301 because RWD cars can be tricky to throttle coming out of a turn. Braking gets interesting too with no front brakes. (F103GT experiences) I took a Sakura D4 AWD kit, deleted the rear spool, moved the front gear diff to the rear, and changed the layshaft pulley and rear belt to make it work (17T pulley, 39T gear diff, Sakura D3 rear belt). I mainly bought the AWD kit instead of the RWD kit to get a gear diff less expensively than a separate parts kit. My original intention was to make it RWD and design some front mechanical brakes, but I lost interest and added a 38T front one-way (w/ 16T layshaft pulley) with the original D4 center/front belt. (Showroom entry) Also take a look at the Thunder Tiger TS2e. Similar concept to what you're showing with flipped servo/ESC positions. From my point of view I'd want to get the motor and battery as close to the rear axle as possible for more weight over the driven wheels, and I'd want a gyro for the front steering to help reduce the risk of spinning out. I'd also want the front mechanical brakes or something similar to take advantage of the weight transfer when slowing down. The TS2e is limited by its front suspension; a normal touring car suspension with oil dampers would help some. The D4 RWD might be a better starting point to test some concepts.
  25. I've built a few Lunch Boxes over time and had one gearbox get gritty and seize. Taking apart the gearbox didn't reveal anything obvious, and it would work fine for a short time then act weird and seize again later. Turns out I had forgotten to install BC6, the differential pin that fits between the two axles and positions the big differential spur gear. The whole diff spur gear was being positioned by the inner spider gears making contact with the axles. So, under harder loads the diff gear might skip and cause one of the spider gears to jump by one tooth, which then made the diff action gritty and semi-bound up. If it jumped again then it was game over. Once I realized the mistake and installed the differential pin, all the problems went away. Make sure your BC6 is installed, and it wouldn't hurt to try adding some thin shims or washers between BC7 spacer and MG1 axle gear to take up some of the play in the diff without making it gritty.
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