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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    Nice wet weather video. Sweeps, Ride, and Pit Shimizu are all good tires.
  2. That's a really cool truck. Nice and solid, basic, interesting color. I was excited to see you went for the regular cab with a long bed; that's exactly what I have as well. Mine's the WT (work truck) trim level with rubber floor and vinyl seats, which makes it so easy to vacuum and wipe down; I can appreciate your choice in vinyl! Good luck with your repairs and updates!
  3. Thanks! Glad to be of service, and of course, when I build my own 312T3 kit I'll have the designs ready to print as a result. It's a win-win. I'm looking forward to seeing your driver figure and finished body; that'll really tie it all together.
  4. In Shunsako Tamiya's book, Master Modeler: Creating the Tamiya Style, Tamiya-san expresses his excitement over model making when he was a child. On page 24 he shares his overall attitude towards a school assignment to finish a glider: "I kept going even when dinner time came around, only going through to the living room after my mother had called me three times. I wolfed down my rice, and rushed back to my model making." "Even when my mother said it was late and that I should go to bed, I begged her to let me stay up just a little longer because I was nearly finished. In fact, I kept on working on the model until my father got angry and ordered me to stop right away -- or else." "The model may have been homework, but there was no need to have it finished by the next day. I did not need to make it with such passionate intensity, but once I had started, I just couldn't stop. I was so excited that even after I had crept under my mosquito net, I couldn't get to sleep." Today I felt a certain connection with Tamiya-san as I worked on finishing the motor pod and wing stay for the 312T3. I had already sanded the print and pseudo-primed it with automotive vinyl & fabric paint two days ago, but yesterday I was busy with other things and it was only after completing some errands this morning I could turn my attention back to these parts. I had an assortment of artist's brushes on hand and some X-11 Chrome Silver, X-18 Semi-Gloss Black, and XF-2 Flat White for this job. First I applied two coats of X-11 to the gearbox, cooler, brake discs, brake calipers, tail pipes, and wing stay. Then I detailed the tail pipes with two coats of XF-2. The gearbox rubber boots and axle shafts were detailed with X-18, and a few small errors were covered up as well. I still need to apply the chrome vinyl to the center wing stay, but the paint was just barely tacky and I was too excited to wait. I built the 312T3 T-bar and motor pod, substituted my custom C2 part, and stole the rear axle from my Lotus 79. The wing is held in place with M3x10 machine screws in these pictures, but maybe Grastens has plans for smaller fasteners since he didn't want the big screw bosses under the mount. The final detail is I found a couple of 5 mm red LEDs in my 40-year old box of electronics. After trying a few, I opted to press-fit a fairly standard one. Anyhow, enjoy! Grastens, you'll need to PM me your address again so I can send these two parts to you.
  5. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    It helps to have grown children!
  6. Surf City / Topsail!
  7. After trying a Lunch Box and Grasshopper, a Mad Bull with a 3500kV brushless setup turned out to be my favorite. The ground clearance and big tires helped it get over rough areas, and it could power slide very nicely on hard packed wet sand. I didn't do anything special to protect the electronics; the only time it died was when I accidentally turned in the wrong direction and sent it into the ocean. I pulled all the electronics out of their cases, rinsed them under tap water, and let them air dry. Everything was good to go again the next day.
  8. speedy_w_beans

    Project RR-03Ra - Converting a TRF201 into a rally car

    Looks like you have a fun project here...
  9. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    I haven't posted in this thread since the end of December... I guess some of the latest things I've been working on (besides a few RC builds): - Slowly but surely all of the media in our house is being digitized, stored, and served up on our home network to all the devices we own. All the CDs are ripped and converted, all the Hi8 family movie tapes have been captured, all the DVDs have been ripped and are in the process of being transcoded, and some paper photos are flowing through the scanner. There are a few reasons for doing this -- 1) make it all more accessible; digging through physical cabinets and piles takes some effort to find things and keep them organized, 2) make things more portable; it's nice to have the family photos, movies, music, videos, etc. available when traveling; it's comforting in some ways, and 3) create some redundancy; in case of fire or some other issue, it's relatively quick to grab a hard drive and run with it, or store one copy in the bank safety deposit box. The capturing and processing part of the task takes time for sure. There's a quad-core PC running 24 hours a day transcoding video right now. I just have a simple Raspberry Pi 3 running a MiniDLNA server and accessing a hard drive for content. There are a few hard drives with the same content on them just in case the primary drive goes down. Our clients include Playstation consoles, iOS and Android tablets, Android phones, and various PCs around the house. I'm in the home stretch and hope to wrap this whole process up in a few months. I started this about a year ago. - I've been planning a 3D printer build and a CNC router/engraver build off and on for the past month. While my little Tronxy X1 does a fine job for smaller parts, the build volume is really quite limited and I've wanted to 3D print full 1/10 scale bodies for awhile. I've also wanted to be able to drill and route my own FRP plates and some chassis parts out of nylon. I have some leftover Arduino boards and RAMPS 1.4 boards, so I bought some extra stepper motors, pulleys, belts, idlers, etc. and have been configuring and testing Marlin and GRBL firmware with this hardware. I'm at the point where I'm comfortable with all the electronics and software, so it's down to designing some frames and rails for the actual machines. I'm targeting 600 mm x 300 mm x 300 mm for the 3D printer build volume, and possibly 600 mm x 600 mm for the CNC router. Maybe I'll go big with the router and do 1000 mm x 1000 mm. - I just bought one of those DSO138 kits from Hobbyking during their St. Patrick's Day sale, and while it is definitely not professional-grade, it's more than adequate for looking at radio receiver PWM waveforms that drive servo motors and ESCs. It's also good enough to look at waveforms on the phases of brushless motors and their sensor boards. For $20, it comes in kit form (soldering required) and will take a little time to put together. I also bought a clear acrylic case off Amazon for $10 just so the board and display is somewhat protected. I have a basic meter for checking voltages, currents, and resistance, but it will be nice to see waveforms now. - There's an old project lurking in the background that I need to finish; basically I bought a cheap SJ4000 action camera a year or two ago and broke open the case with the intentions of adapting the image sensor to a standard CCTV mini lens mount. There are wide variety of lenses available for CCTV cameras, and I wanted to take advantage of these lenses and the 120 fps recording speed of the action camera to do macro videos. The idea is to be able to capture small mechanical movement in detail. - Lastly, I recently finished and test fired a few custom Glock pistol builds based on Polymer 80 frames. There was no money saved compared to buying a standard pistol off-the-shelf, but I learned quite a bit and have some appreciation for the way all the masses, springs, interlocks, etc. work together as a system. Test firing was successful -- 100% success rate on the first 100 rounds fired, so that's nice as well. Beyond RC, that's the latest from speedy-land.
  10. speedy_w_beans

    So, what have you done today?

    Fresh wheels always look good...
  11. speedy_w_beans

    I'm satisfied...

    I think I'm past any buying frenzy now. It may be time to put some kits and finished models up for sale, and branch off in a new direction. I'll always be in the hobby, but paring back the collection wouldn't hurt.
  12. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    Just spray this on the outside of the shell: Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric Paint - Flat Black HVP106 It bonds to the polycarbonate and stays flexible since it is meant for automotive interior surfaces. Full credit to @Yello for bringing this up years ago.
  13. Physical parts ready for detailing...
  14. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    Hmm, you know what?
  15. Just bumped into a web site with all sorts of valuable photos of Gilles Villeneuve's car. I wish I would have found this site months ago! It would have influenced my part designs more. 1978 Ferrari 312T3 Serial Number 034
  16. In for a penny, in for a pound... Let's do this up right! I used the white Z4 part in combination with some photos to make a custom C2 motor pod part as well. It's crazy how many 312T3 photos I see with varying exhaust pipes, varying brake reservoirs, varying wing placement, etc. It's almost impossible to say there is a single "most correct" version of the car. I've been favoring photos that feature the Canadian GP version of the car, though, since that was Grasten's original focus. The wing stay can work with either the original C2 part or this custom one.
  17. Grastens, please take a look at this and let me know what you think. The mounting holes for the motor pod are in exactly the same position on both the kit part and our custom part, and the wing mount holes are in the same X/Y location, just elevated by 5 mm in the Z direction. The big bosses for the wing screws have been deleted. For the single center post I used the parts from Tamiya's chrome parts tree as reference for the profile, then made the height to fit the slightly higher wing mounting holes. At the bottom of the post I narrowed the center block by 2 mm, extended the length out back, added some ribbing to represent the truss structure used in the real car, and moved the LED hole to the very back.
  18. speedy_w_beans

    Yeah Racing 'QUTUS'

    I wonder how each setting on the piston changes the damping characteristics... Are you seeing the equivalent of a 50 cst or 100 cst oil change with the change in holes? Or is it much more coarse, like 200 or 300 cst per hole? Also, when altering the number of holes for the exact same oil the peak flow rate of oil per hole changes, which changes whether dampers generate any "pack." Normally with TRF-style dampers they produce a force related to shaft speed up to a certain point, and then higher shaft speeds produce exponentially higher forces. There's this figure called the Reynolds number that depends on piston thickness and hole diameter which defines when the damper transitions from linear forces to "pack.". So when changing the number of holes in the piston, each hole has the same Reynolds number but the oil flow rate is divided over more or fewer holes. You may notice that TRF-style dampers usually have pistons with different hole counts and different hole diameters. You can maintain similar linear damping forces but change the threshold for packing up by swapping hole sizes and oil weights (smaller holes, thinner oil = more pack; bigger holes, thicker oil = less pack). I'm thinking @Superluminal in his first post is right; these look like a gimmick at first glance. If you really are tuning for some specific conditions, then you probably still have to open these up to change oil and pick hole count / hole sizes. There's no harm in trying these, but they may not let you dial in the suspension as well as they imply when used as shown.
  19. Hey Grastens, it's been far too long since I offered up a different rear wing stay. I just modeled the existing kit part today and wanted to confirm what you asked for in the past -- 10 mm increase in height, single post, and remove the screw holes? See below.
  20. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    I've been playing with the body a little bit. A day or two ago I worked on trimming some sections so the rear dampers won't rub on the body anymore. Today I trimmed some of the mismatched edges and sanded all of them. Looking at the manual some more, the instructions call for using clear servo tape to mount the pods to the main shell. What the factory actually did, though, was disregard those instructions and use glue instead. This is why the pods were misaligned with the main body near the front suspension. The silver/black/green paint job wasn't calling to me much; but @salvine's recent post on aircraft-themed bodies was resonating with me some. I was thinking about fighter jets and considered painting the body gray, but I wasn't 100% sold on that either. Ultimately I went for flat black as it matched most of the chassis and gave me some options: Modern-day Lotus 79 tribute to place next to my F104W Lotus 79. Something inspired by stealth fighters/bombers Something inspired by Darth Vader / Star Wars So we'll see; I'll latch onto something soon for a theme.
  21. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    To be honest, I don't have an educated opinion. The RC10F6, Team CRC WTF1, and Tamiya F104V2 all have similar rear pods, ball diffs, pivot ball link rear suspensions, battery placement, and servo mounting. The front suspensions vary in design somewhat, but they all use kingpins/springs at the knuckles. These are all targeted towards the racing crowd with the materials, designs, and prices attached to them. I tend to like Team CRC for indoor onroad racing class pan cars because they sell the carpet a lot of tracks use, design and manufacture the cars to work on that carpet, have well-publicized wins, and have some fun names for their stuff like Carpet Knife, Battle Axe, and WTF1. They've been around for awhile and are fairly old-school. At the same time, I do like Tamiya's F1 and Le Mans releases for the historic body shells. Lotus 79, WR1, 312T3, P34, R91CP, 787B, etc. all satisfy that "models suitable for radio control" tag line of Tamiya's. I wish they would bring back more bodies from the earliest part of their catalog. I need an early March shell to make a 2-4-0 companion to the P34. While Tamiya covers scale bodies, at the moment 3Racing has this nice scale chassis. It may not be competitive or legal per certain rules, but as @Juls1 said, I'm a sucker for scale engineering as well. Even with a few detours in the build, I'm completely satisfied with the $110 USD price tag and build result. It's just too cool to pass up! I just finished binge-watching the "F1: Drive to Survive" series on Netflix, and I thought it was pretty good. There was almost no coverage of Ferrari or Mercedes, but Red Bull, Renault, Haas, Force, Williams, and Sauber had a fair amount of content. The blend of qualifying and race highlights with team and driver stories and race preparation was pretty good. By the end of the series I had a much better appreciation for the personalities and stories presented. Check it out if you subscribe to the service.
  22. speedy_w_beans

    Ideas wanted for painting a 911 GT1

    Hope you don't mind, but I think I might try to do something aircraft-inspired on my FGX EVO 2018 shell. I like the examples you've posted in the past and wouldn't mind something aggressive for this F1 chassis...
  23. speedy_w_beans

    RM01 To GT Conversion

    I don't know of a solution for sale, but I did my own a few months ago: Showroom. Entry and build thread.
  24. speedy_w_beans

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    So, bag 7 is all about wings and a rear stabilizer. The front wing has a few winglets, a stiffener, and mounting nose. Looks pretty good attached to the chassis... The rear wing has several surfaces, a mount, and a center brace. The mount has space inside for a LED. Front and rear wings installed. Bag 8 includes the tires as well as hardware for mounting the electronics. Looks pretty good with all the design details. Dropping each end of the chassis and letting the suspension settle, I noticed the rear was pretty good. It was reasonably damped and only cycled once. The front, on the other hand, was very bouncy. Dropping the front end, I could see the chassis bounce a half dozen times. The front springs seem hard (softer ones are coming), the silicone grease isn't dampening very much, and the front tires seem harder than the rear tires. I think I would be tempted to get a second set of rear dampers and mount them up front so I could use more common springs and work with a variety of oils. I guess I really need to drive it to decide for certain what to do. When I installed the body I noticed the rear springs were rubbing against it, and the body was a little warped. Body clips will keep the body straight on the posts, but I think it might be necessary to slot both sides of the center tunnel so the springs and damper bodies aren't touching the body. More to come...
  25. speedy_w_beans

    Flatbed trailer question for the american members

    This will help: Federal Trailer Lighting Requirements Basically, due to the length of the trailer it is required to have yellow side marker lights. What you don't want to have happen is some other motorist drive into the side of a long trailer at an intersection at night, so the side marker lights are visual cues something long/wide is in front of them. It's line item 5a on the page. Also, due to the width of the trailer there is a requirement for three central marker lights to designate a wide trailer; this is line item 7. There is a comparable requirement for tractors as well with three central yellow marker lights over the cab (line item 3 here).