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speedy_w_beans

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Everything posted by speedy_w_beans

  1. Can you nest any of your boxes, i.e., put smaller boxes inside bigger boxes? I've actually thought about framing a few box faces such as the Lunch Box and Grasshopper to hang in my man cave.
  2. Lunch Box. Tons of fun, very durable, lots of mods possible, a true classic in Tamiya's lineup.
  3. Having owned PS1, PS2, and now PS3 systems, I seriously doubt I'll go for the PS4. I mean, we're up to Gran Turismo 5, God of War 3, Killzone 3, Grand Theft Auto 4, etc. The formulas have been played out. At least with the PC you can use it for creative work like 3D modeling, video editing, word processing, etc. in addition to gaming. And an iPad or Nexus tablet makes a great couch companion while watching TV.
  4. BEC = Battery Elimination Circuit This is essentially a voltage regulator that reduces the stick pack voltage from 7.2V to 5V for radio receivers and servos. If the radio receiver has a BEC in it or is high-voltage compatible, then the TEU ESC will work ok. If the radio receiver does not have a BEC in it and it is not high-voltage compatible, then you need an ESC with a BEC built into it. Examples: Futaba R152JE 75 MHz AM receiver: Input voltage = 4.8V to 6.0V per specification Futaba R2004GF 2.4 GHz FHSS receiver: Input voltage = 4.8V to 7.4V per specification I've tried the R152JE with a TEU-104BK ESC in the past, and it works mostly except when the battery is fresh off the charger. Then the car seems to have a mind of its own and glitches a lot until the battery voltage drops. I've also tried the R2004GF with a TEU-104BK ESC in the past, and it works flawlessly regardless of battery charge level.
  5. Does the steering servo work on both channels? And the ESC only works on one channel? Does the ESC always power the receiver properly regardless of which channel its plugged into; it's just a signal problem on one channel? Have you looked at the contacts on the ESC plug to see if the fingers are spread a little too much on the signal pin? Maybe the fingers just barely touch a receiver pin on one channel, but don't touch the pin on the other channel. Kind of a weird problem. I've not had something like this happen before.
  6. What transmitters, receivers, ESCs, and servos are you working with? Are your trims for both steering and throttle perfectly zero? Does the ESC need to see a perfectly centered input initially to arm? I never use anything except zero throttle trim, and then calibrate the ESC to the throttle endpoints.
  7. Baldre = Blandre for me. I completely acknowledge the extra space and reported better performance of the Baldre shell; I just like the extra cuts and vents in the Durga shell design. It's more interesting visually to me.
  8. I run double O-rings in my rear dampers as well.
  9. What ESC did you have in the car to begin with? I generally migrate away from Tamiya ESCs (like the TEU-104) for a few reasons: 1) Cost 2) Lack of BEC, although the TEU-105 has one 3) Only 50% reverse/braking, not 100% 4) Low-voltage cutoff only suitable for LiFe or NiMH, but not LiPo. I've seen several other members on here recommend Moped and Tazer brushed ESCs in the past; maybe some of them could chime in and help. Where are you located? That might have some bearing on what to get as well...
  10. So the Parma tape is clear like Novak? I'd probably go in that direction as well. The Tamiya tape is ok, but not as strong as I'd like. The black foam tape from RJ Speed and OFNA is almost too strong and distintegrates when trying to remove it, but I'd still use it for pan cars. I do like the Novak tape in general and will buy a roll of the Parma in the future if they're essentially the same.
  11. The manual for the TA04-S is here: http://www.tamiya.co...anual/ta04s.pdf For the rear belt: Pop the rear turnbuckles off the rear bearing hubs. Pop the rear dampers off the shock tower. Tilt the bearing hubs outwards and pull the dogbones. As seen in step 4 of the manual, remove the four screws holding down the upper diff cover. Remove the diff cover and remove the diff. As seen in step 11 of the manual, loosen the set screw from the center pulley and slide out the spur shaft assembly. Lift the center pulley; the rear belt should be removable now. Install a new rear belt on the center pulley and reverse these instructions for re-assembly, or proceed below for the front belt too. If you also want to do the front belt: Remove the upper deck as seen in step 15. Remove the front turnbuckles, dampers, and dogbones as was done for the rear. Remove the screws holding the front diff cover in place as seen in step 8. Remove the front diff. The front belt should be removable now. Install a new front belt on the front diff and center pulley, and reverse these instructions for re-assembly.
  12. First advice is to avoid all petroleum-based lubricants as much as possible as they can affect plastics. Silicone grease for ball diffs. Ceramic grease for plastic gears. Molybdenum grease for metal joints/cups. Anti-wear grease for unsealed gear diffs. I've started running more outdrives/dogbones/axles dry or with graphite to avoid attracting dirt.
  13. Ok, understood. I just found the bead on the Lunch Box tires to be reasonably snug against the wheels. I drove my Mad Bull on the beach and didn't have any problems with the tires, so that's why I challenged the idea a little. That said, I have ripped the same tires off the wheels on a Lunch Box usually after a bad crash or abusive running on asphalt.
  14. You should use 30 wt / 400 cst oil for the front dampers and 10 wt / 100 cst oil for the rear dampers. I'm not convinced you need to CA glue the tires with just a silver can motor. You may want to remove the tires to clean out sand that entered via the vent hole. Just wash the wheels and tires in dish soap, then rinse, and there should be plenty of grip between the tire and rim. The rest of your list looks good.
  15. I had a pair of lipos sit with a storage charge for a year and didn't notice any issues... But I usually cycle my lipos at least once every month in vehicles...
  16. Neat to see some other NC, USA guys on here...
  17. Charge each lipo only half way (around 7.4V for 2S, 11.1V for 3S) and store them in a cool location. Half charge and cool temperatures will minimize the capacity lost over time. Others may want to chime in about cycling when lipos are new or come out of long term storage.
  18. This stuff by far is the stickiest I've run into: http://www3.towerhob...p?&I=LXVVV0&P=7 The foam layer will rip before the adhesive will let go. I think this stuff may be 3M VHB based. It makes sense given RJ Speed makes pan cars and the servo really is only taped down. The servo tape that OFNA supplies with their kits behaves the same way. It'll tear before the adhesive lets go. Novak tape is almost as strong, but doesn't tear during removal. It has a clear inner layer instead of a black foam inner layer. Tamiya tape is actually the weakest tape I've used. More options: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=servo+tape&search=Go
  19. I'm not sure if it will work off the BEC voltage going to the receiver; I just used the Y-harness to split the battery between the ESC and the TLU as intended in the past. Maybe someone else has tried this?
  20. The TLU-01 won't operate the reverse lights without a TLU-02 to control it. The TLU-02 responds to the throttle and steering channels from the receiver to command the LEDs on and off via the TLU-01. It will actually be cheaper for you to sell the TLU-01 or use it in a model where always on LEDs are preferred, and then get a 3Racing LED controller instead. The 3Racing controller is a single box that also responds to the throttle and steering channels, and controls a bunch of LEDs installed on a shell. TLU-02 for $89: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPJS7&P=7 3RAC-LEDS for $25: http://www.tqrcracin...w.asp?p_id=2214 Turnigy for $10: http://www.hobbyking...ing_System.html
  21. They're the same except for the shells. I personally like the look of the Durga shell more, but the Baldre shell has a little more room inside for the electronics.
  22. Totally off topic, have you ever looked at the suspension design on the Awesomatix touring car? It's a neat idea with the rotary dampers and clock springs. The main idea is to lower CoG even more. Something to file in the back of our heads for future inspiration...
  23. First thoughts/reactions: - I like the use of the 4-gear gearbox for the reasons you stated. - I like the shorty lipo and how that moves the weight forward. I also like the idea of gaining more in-air correction capability with the throttle due to less rotational inertia around the front axle. - Inline driveshafts are good. You're using CVDs instead of dogbones, right? - The upright shocks should lower your CoG a tiny amount. Fewer parts is better for sure. I hope you don't mind if I speak my mind a little... The rear suspension bugs me a little. Here's why: - The rear suspension arms introduce camber angle changes that are related to their angle of departure from the main chassis tub. There doesn't seem to be any way to tune the camber gain without affecting the track width in the rear. It's not extreme like a Grasshopper, Mad Bull, or Lunch Box, but the effect is there. It looks like you can adjust the camber gain in the front with washers under the ball connector. - It would be nice to have the option of a rear anti-roll bar just in case you want to loosen up the rear end a little more. I'm assuming you have the option to install a front anti-roll bar as well. - It would also be nice to have just a touch of active steering at the rear to swing the rear out in a turn. This is what I'm imagining for the rear of the buggy: - The short chassis tub becomes T-shaped in the rear so that multiple suspension arm mounting points are available. A combination of mounting block shims set initial camber angle and a choice of mounting block positions set camber gain. - The rear bearing hubs become steering knuckles with turnbuckle connections to the main tub. This compensates for the multiple rear suspension arm mounting positions, but it also provides opportunities to dial in some rear steering to swing the rear out in a turn (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HICAS). You can also dial in some initial rear toe for stability. - The chassis tub and suspension arms could include features for an anti-roll bar. If mounting locations become a problem, check out the shaft/blade approach used in the Associated TC6.1 WE.
  24. Yep, that's a standard warning for all batteries. ESCs even when turned off may draw a certain amount of leakage current, which discharges the battery to 0 over time. I leave all batteries unconnected in storage.
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