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speedy_w_beans

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Posts posted by speedy_w_beans

  2. Posted

    So I was bored and decided to read the whole thread again and catalog all the complaints.  My initial reaction is it's a miracle anyone older than 12 and anyone outside Japan buys a Tamiya RC kit at all.  But, with a little more reflection I guess what this list really represents is the union/sum of all feedback.  I doubt every person in this thread holds every item against Tamiya; depending on who you are, some of these are quite negotiable.  If I was a manufacturer and tried to balance all the subject matter, licensing, features, designs, capital investments, raw materials, manufacturing, documentation, distribution, sales, build process, and support issues (with a backdrop of economic cycles, currency fluctuations, shipping variability, and geopolitical stability) to satisfy everyone, I'd go crazy with as wide an offering as Tamiya has.  I'd have to focus on a more specific offering, like what Fenix and CRC do.  Anyhow, here's the list:

    The Kit Itself

    • Need more model diversity (see other threads on body wish lists)
    • Lack of chassis diversity (same chassis over and over)
    • Inaccurate details (chassis, suspensions, motor placement)
    • Toss-together packaging (decal damage, parts damage)
    • Half-baked kits require hopups (want a higher standard base kit)
    • Established model names used for cash grabs (Astute, Avante, for example)
    • Expensive prices especially adding hopups

    Design/Features

    • Friction shocks
    • Non-standard wheel sizes (buggy/truck wheels?)
    • Lack of 12mm front hexes (bearings in front wheels)
    • 26mm width wheel compatibility (touring suspension arm design)

    Hardware

    • Press nuts
    • Self-tapping screws
    • JIS screws (hex instead)
    • Plastic bearings/bushings (standard ball bearings)
    • Alloy pinions (standard steel pinions)
    • E-clips

    Electronics

    • Poor LiPo support (battery trays, ESC cutoffs)
    • Mechanical speed controllers
    • TEU ESCs (use HobbyWing instead - actually happening!)
    • Servo saver never centered at 0 radio trim

    Bodies

    • Hard shell bodies
    • Mold lines
    • Polycarbonate bodies
    • Prepunched body post holes
    • Discontinued PC bottle paints
    • No paint in the kit, especially for very small details
    • Unrealistic sponsors/brands
    • California license plates
    • Lack of die-cut stickers (historically some don't want die-cut, though)
    • Masking tape dispenser

    Quality

    • Sloppy suspension joints
    • Play in bearings and joints

    Sales/Distribution/Support

    • Japan-first attitude permeates the whole experience
    • Limited editions and pre-orders
    • Not much local hobby store inventory or support
    • Lack of parts support
    • Buying whole trees of parts for one part

    It's their company and their product; patronize them or don't.  To me the bottom line is it's a hobby; try to have some fun with it.

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 1

  3. Posted

    Just out of curiosity I was wondering if any shaft-drive chassis has ever won the IFMAR Worlds.  I think @qatmix may have written this brief history (link here); the short answer is 'no.'

    Is there a clear dividing line where belt cars dominate in some race classes, and shaft-drive cars dominate in other race classes?

  4. Posted

    I suspect it's a question of Ohm's Law and measurement methods the charger uses.

    The charger is probably showing 8.43 V and 3.00 A right at the charger output jacks.  There is a small amount of resistance associated with all connector contacts, lengths of wire used in the charging leads and battery leads, and the cells themselves.  The current (3.00 A) multiplied by the series resistance of the connectors, leads, and cells (about 20 milliohms) is what results in the 60 mV discrepancy you noticed.  The short answer is that the 60 mV difference and 3.00 A of current results in about 180 mW of dissipated power in the wires, connectors, and cells; a very small amount of heat you probably can't feel since it is distributed across the full length of wire, multiple connector junctions, and surface area of the battery.

    The balance lead itself serves double duty as a Kelvin connection to the battery as well as to steer a small amount of current in/out the center connection between the two cells in the battery.  Because the balance lead is connected directly to the cells and is not carrying substantial current, it doesn't exhibit the same voltage gradient between the battery cells and the charger.  The individual cell readings from the balance plug more accurately represent the state of the cells in the battery, not the overall voltage shown at the charger output jacks.

    My LiPo chargers do the same thing, and I've even noticed over the years certain charge leads have some wear and tear on them leading to larger differences between the overall voltage and the individual cell voltages added together.  This seems to be attributed to connector cycling, as new charge leads with tighter connectors have reduced the difference a good amount, but not entirely.

    If you charge your battery at a lower current, like 1.00 A instead of 3.00 A, you'll probably see the voltage difference reduce proportionately.  Also, if you happen to watch your battery charger as it gets close to the end of the cycle, it will reduce current from the maximum 3.00 A to lower levels as the cells get close to their target voltages.  In that case you'll also see the difference between the main voltage the summed individual cell voltages will be less, too.

    In summary:

    • The difference between the charger voltage and the summed cell voltages, multiplied by the current, is the power being dissipated in the connectors, wires, and cells.  You should not be able to feel any heat.
    • The individual cell voltages are more important than the charger's output voltage. 
    • Connectors do wear with cycling, and internal resistance of cells will rise with cycling.  If you start noticing large differences between the charger output voltage and summed cell voltages, it's worth investigating if connectors or the battery itself needs replacing.  Heat and LiPos, large voltage differences, cell imbalances = no bueno.
    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  5. Posted

    @WillyChang, looks more like a 125,000 to 150,000 yen kit to me...  Locally the TRF420x MSRPs for $1400 USD, or almost $1000 USD at retailers, or about $700 USD at retailers in HK.  Range of 186,000 (MSRP) to 93,000 (HK) yen.  I don't think the EVO 8 commands the same premium as the 420x, but still it's going to be pricey.  Looks really pretty and seems to have lots of adjustability.

     

  7. Posted

    Here's something I did for Scollins based on his contest-winning design.  Holiday inspiration:

    https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=133233&id=5414

    https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=134457&id=5414

    I did a cattle-themed "Bump Steer" Lunch Box in the past too.

    Plenty of guys doing A-Team and Scooby Doo vans 

    Love to do a 70s wizard mural or space-themed custom van someday, or one with side bubble heart windows.

    Just some thoughts.

  8. Posted

    Seems like a good deal given the motor mount and other items are included.

    I think for the third time in 10 years my photo hosting went dead.  I just haven't made the time to re-host the photos and fix the links.  It's a time-consuming process with about 1500 photos to link again.

  10. Posted

    Tamiya USA closed these out at $99 for the kit a few years ago.  If you're specifically wanting a TRF801xt, then the price is fair since kits are no longer available from Tamiya.  They'll likely never get back into TRF 1/8 nitro buggies or truggies ever again.

    The main weak point on the kit is the front arms.  They tended to break easily, but to remedy that some people reported success submerging the arms in boiling water for a period of time to relieve molded in stress in the parts.

    I have a finished TRF801xt of my own and have bashed it with a brushless conversion running 4S LiPo.  It's durable and a joy to drive; you can really see the suspension working to keep those tires planted.  It steers nicely, and others have even increased steering by using 801x buggy knuckles instead.

    I boiled the front arms, installed the hop up aluminum center braces, and bought a Monster RC brushless motor mount.  Those were the key mods/upgrades for me.  I used a Pro-Line Bulldog MBX6T Mugen body in place of the kit body, HobbyKing 120A SCT ESC w/ 1900kV 1/8 motor, Savox 1258TG clone servo, and a pair of 2S packs wired in series.

    It'll be about a $500 build after adding everything to complete the basic kit.  Probably the most durable off-road kit you can get from Tamiya.

     

  11. Posted

    Parts:

    • Aluminum front suspension mount:  54037
    • Aluminum rear suspension mount:  54038
    • TRF501X diff joints:  51286
    • TRF501X diff plates:  51287
    • Tungsten carbide diff balls:  3mm balls, Acer or comparable
    • DB01 gear diff:  54329
    • Reinforced belts:  54140
    • Standard slipper clutch:  54018
    • Double slipper clutch:  54061

    Beyond the basic durability upgrades listed above, the next big upgrade to consider would be better shocks.  I always felt like the kit CVAs included in the Durga kit worked fine on asphalt in the street, but didn't offer enough performance in the dirt.  Tamiya, 3Racing, and Yeah Racing all have several options to choose from.

    After that, it's all personal preference.  Search on "DB-01" on TamiyaUSA.com and check the "show discontinued" box to show more.  Also go to RCMart.com and take a look through the replacement/upgrade parts for DB01 and TRF501x.  Also, Tamiya publishes a parts matching list that shows parts and upgrades here:  https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/matching/matching_list.pdf

    Other than a TRF511x or TRF501x, the DB01 series was probably one of the best 4WD buggies Tamiya brought to market.  Advocates will say the model uses good plastics and machine screws, tends to be quiet and quite composed, and is very predictable.  Critics will say it's boring, heavy, and includes spaceship-blob bodies.  Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  Enjoy!

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  12. Posted

    I was waiting for the "what would you choose" question...  :D

    I personally would prefer the restomod route with modern chassis, powertrain, suspension, and brakes, but the looks of 60s and 70s classics (talking about automobiles).  If the car has the shape, color, trim accents, etc., of the original but improved raw materials that won't rust or fade as easily, so much the better.

    I think for that reason I have to give a hat tip to Kyosho, Associated, and Losi with their various re-releases.  Kyosho used their RB-series gearbox in the Scorpion and Beetle, and offered a belt drive option in their Optima and Javelin.  Associated brought their famous Stealth transmission to the re-released Worlds buggy.  Losi put a huge smile on my face recently with their 1/16 JRX2 re-release; they claim an updated transmission to handle modern brushless power.  All these buggies can take the power of 2022 and handle pretty well, but still provide some semblance of nostalgia.

    • Like 3

  13. Posted

    Overall, yes, it's durable.

    On a base DB01 kit like a Durga or a Baldre, it's a good idea to upgrade the frontmost and rearmost plastic suspension mounts to aluminum.  The rear one can flex under a hard crash and let the suspension arms come loose.  That leads to losing the pivot balls on the ends of the hinge pin.  But the aluminum suspension mounts take care of that issue completely.

    Also, the base DB01 kit and first DB01R kit include ball diffs, not gear diffs.  If you choose to keep the ball diffs then care must be taken to secure the diff rings to the joint cups; they're not indexed and will slip.  I found I had to use rubber cement on them twice to get them to stick properly.  It's better to upgrade to TRF501 one-piece metal diff joints and tungsten carbide diff balls, and follow the TRF501x build procedure.  Or, get the DB01RR gear diff parts and put gear diffs in instead.

    If you're going to run some semi-serious power like 4000kV+ brushless, you might want to upgrade from the base drive belts to the reinforced drive belts as well as a slipper clutch from the R and RR.  It's better to have the slipper slip, not the diffs slip (much).  If you run the gear diffs then the dual slipper (front and rear slip independently) could make some sense.

    There aren't any major structural problems to worry about.  Just some simple upgrades to suspension mounts, diffs, belts, and slipper.  As others have pointed out, DB01 kits and parts stock are starting to get a little thin.  Also, you have to consider the wheels are unique to this model with pin drive rear wheels and shallow hex front wheels.  You can make changes to run 12mm hexes all around, but that adds even more cost.

    If you are going to a track to drive, add up the cost of a DB01 project, and consider the LHS support situation, then you may very well be better served by an Associated or Losi product instead.  They're current and proven products for that environment, setup tips can be shared freely with other racers at the track, and parts/consumables support is going to be faster/easier/less hassle.  The racer mindset is not the same as the collector and casual driver mindsets.

    • Like 4

  14. Posted

    I'm ok with pre-cut wheel arches, but I wish Tamiya would stop punching holes for the body posts.  Just leave the dimples for a body reamer like they used to.  If the body already has holes in it, then you're kind of stuck with body posts which hurts any realism in photographs.

    • Like 1

  15. Posted

    I built a basic TT02 some time ago and only upgraded the plastic bushings to ball bearings.  I was surprised the car steered pretty well on street asphalt, even with the stock friction dampers/spring holders.  No complaints about the plastic prop shaft or dog bones, either.  At this point I'm driving cars so infrequently, the basic $120 TT02 kits with bodies are starting to make a lot of sense.

    • Like 1

  16. Posted

    These may be too expensive for what you want, but it's nice to know something is out there for reference:

    https://www.progressiveautomations.com/products/micro-linear-actuator

    I've played with this before for about $9 USD, and it has all the guts needed.  It just needs a new 3D-printed housing to adapt it to the application.  Internally it has a circuit board, motor, worm drive, and limit switches.  Depending on which way you set the 3rd channel, the mechanism will spin the worm screw until one or the other limit switches is hit.

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/digital-servoless-retractable-system-1pc.html?queryID=dbd520a77de6269b5ff53a4040a2ba61&objectID=38770&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics

    I haven't gone the distance and installed a modified unit to my Heavy Dump yet; it's on the list of things to do.  But some initial exploration got me this far.

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    Yes!  Many years ago I painted a Dark Impact shell with the Goteki 45 team colors for my son.  I currently have a spare Nissan GTR LM Nismo body for the F103GT that I'm planning to do a proper Wipeout theme on.  The shape of the shell really reminds me those ships.  I'd love to see some of the Wipeout concepts in current-day auto racing:  boosts, energy drains, (non-lethal) weapons, shields, autopilot, etc.  I'd even love to see it in RC racing.

    spacer.png

    spacer.png

    • Like 3

  21. Posted

    First, credit to TamiyaBlog for posting this and citing the source:  https://tamiyablog.com/2022/04/tamiya-japan-planning-to-build-a-new-production-plant-in-cebu-for-1-5-billion-php/

    Source:  https://timeattackmanila.com/features/hobby/so-tamiya-is-building-a-new-p15b-factory-in-cebu/

    I just find the numbers interesting.  The magnitude of the business, and where the product is going...

    • $23M USD in production value per year
    • 65% of product going to Japan
    • 12% to USA
    • 10% to Germany
    • 7% to UK
    • 2% to Thailand
    • 2% to Hong Kong
    • 4% to the rest of the world

    Actually, if you add it up the article shows 102% so something is slightly off with the proportions.

    Thoughts:

    • We often mention on this site how Tamiya serves Japan first, and the rest of the world is kind of an afterthought.  The numbers seem to support this.  If 65% of the product is going to Japan, then Tamiya should care what its Japanese customer base is interested in.
    • The 1.5B PHP investment in a new factory space is about $28M USD, so it seems reasonable in light of the value of annual production.  It's not like they would invest $200M USD for that level of output.
    • It seems like we've had a few threads in the past about which kits come from which factory (Japan or Philippines).  I don't recall the proportion of production, but it seems like quite a few of the ABS/PC-based kits come from the Philippines while the PA/nylon/metal kits come from Japan.
    • I don't blame them one bit for re-releases, parts reuse across several chassis, and mixing bodies/wheels/tires/chassis.  The challenge is offering new ideas or new combinations of ideas but not overspending on molds/tools.  Historically we've questioned why they didn't get into short course trucks, better scaler/crawler trucks, and maybe some other product categories.  Maybe it was a combination of what sells in Japan, tool investment, and market timing that made them shy away from certain niche vehicles.
    • I'm thankful Tamiya is willing to make the investment in a new facility and continue supporting the RC product range.
    • I'm thankful they still make great body sets.
    • If I had any wish, maybe it would be for more USA-specific subjects in their body sets.  Lots of muscle cars, performance cars, classic Corvettes, and other notable USA vehicles would be welcome.  I know they could do this with the level of detail we've come to expect in their other body sets.  The Ford Mustang Cobra R, Mustang GT4, and Ford GT are a few kits to mention, but some GM and Mopar would be nice too.  But this is my bias, just as I'm sure others here have their wishes.

    Numbers and thoughts after a long day at work...

     

    • Like 9
    • Thanks 1

  24. Posted

    Hi everyone,

    Over the past 2-1/2 years I've enjoyed watching speed run videos and have kept the listings up to date.  @Jason1145 started it all with his first thread in 2016, and I continued it with this thread in 2019, but it's time for someone else to start a part 3 thread (or start a new competition completely).

    I've been a part of Tamiyaclub since 2011 and have enjoyed connecting with several people here.  I'll continue to visit Tamiyaclub periodically, but it's time to pass the baton.  It's up to you to choose a new admin for the rankings.

    Thanks,

    Speedy

    • Sad 3
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