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About derv_scaler

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  1. It's a cracking colour scheme that really suits the car. I had a quick blast the car in stock form, seems good fun and handled quite well considering it's stock. I'll be trying the brushless motors over the Christmas break to see how it performs.
  2. I've treated myself to one of these, it should be here tomorrow all being well. As a big fan of 80's cars and having realised most of my current collection needs one thing or another doing before I can run them I've bought one to actually get some bashing in over the Christmas break. Does anyone have any experience with these things, I've got a few mods in mind such as a brushless conversion (I've got a spare 9T and 17.5T setup) and swapping to LiPo's, along with a possible diff lock for the rear. Another thing is the TX, it comes with a steer-wheel 2.4Ghz setup, but I really prefer stick radio's so might transplant the guts of the TX into an old AM stick TX I have and see how that works out. Picture of one shamelessly pinched off the net:
  3. You can blast with a smaller compressor, but you'll have to wait while the air reciever fills up between blasting attempts. I started blasting using a small Sealey compressor, 2hp/50 litre and found it extremely useful as I restore motorcycles as another hobby. The CFM output of the compressor is more important that tank size, so a high CFM output with a small tank would do the job nicely. The blasting gun (if you buy one) should state the minimum CFM requirement, as with anything try and better this number. I got a bit carried away with it all and ended up building myself a massive setup, the compressor pump (23CFM) is too large for a 240v motor to run as it's desinged for 3 phase power, so fitted an electric start 6.5hp petrol engine and I can blast continuously at full pressure and it has a 200 litre air reciever so perfect for air tools in the workshop. For smaller jobs I still use the Sealey
  4. They NEED a UK supplier! I'd have the Land Rover, the Jeep, The Alfa 75 (I had a black V6 1:1 many years ago), and the Lancia Delta (Had one of those in 1:1 too)
  5. I used glass beads at 115 psi (hence bead blasting) steel shot would wreck the body. I think soda blasting would work well too, so if you have access to a compressor you can make a soda blaster from an air duster nozzle and some PVC tubing.
  6. Bead blasting works perfectly and doesn't damage the shell itself at all, not really a DIY option for most but you can usually find someone locally who can do it quite cheaply.
  7. I can vouch for the Fastrax tyres, they're very good for the money. I'd forgotten about them as I run some RC4WD 1.55 wheels and tyres on my Pajero.
  8. Nice Unimog! Adding wheel weights will definatley improve the top heaviness as it lowers the centre of gravity a little, I've not owned a CR01 so can't comment on other mods that will help though. I run an XC chassis Pajero as a crawler and have built it to be intentionally heavy as I feel it handles more naturally that way
  9. I picked up a set of cheapy screwdrivers from Maplins (of all places) and have found them to be very good with decent handles so you get a nice amount of torque and the tips are tough enough to withstand a good bit of torque. http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/rolson-15-part-precision-screwdriver-set-n25cx Just noticed they're on special offer, I paid £9.99 :ouch: - only of use if you're in the UK though....
  10. The thing is though, when under braking you would be braking with both rear wheels with a locked diff, with an open you'll only be braking while you have traction on both wheels, as soon as one is off the ground or sliding you have no braking at all as the motor stops and the wheel with grip will just spin the other wheel backwards. I recently built a Grasshopper and was experimenting with open and locked diffs, with an open diff you could pin it wide open across grass and make reasonable progress, but I could hear it wheelspinning the whole time, with the diff locked it hooked up much better and was faster across the same grass. With the open diff on dry concrete you could apply full steering and get some speed up, but when the brakes were applied the inner wheel would lift off and the inner rear wheel would spin backwards due to the motor being stopped and the differential gear doing it's thing. The spinning out example you gave highlights the positives of a locked diff, IE you are making much more efficient use of the available power from the motor, with an open diff you'll just be wasting that power by spinning a wheel, so you need to drive more gently to make the same progress as an open diff on full throttle. Open diffs need a different driving style to a locked or limited slip diff, but I would agree that a locked diff is less forgiving, much like any other performance improvement.. Back to the original question, I've got an XC chassis'd Pajero (looks to be the same chassis as a CC-01) that I've modded a bit and have through bolted the gear case as the threads were stripped, it's currently running a brushed crawler motor through an HPI 7:1 reduction gearbox, so masses of torque and nothing has broken on it yet. You'll want to replace the plastic axle link bars, they're quite flexible as standard, I made some myself but they need mounting differently to maximse articulation, but they are as articulate as the standard version. There's so much you can do with this chassis, I started a project to replace the XC chassis entirely and mount a 3 speed transmission as I have a spare body, but I need to revise the geometry a little.
  11. Here's a tip for getting stubborn screws to undo, boil a kettle full of water and pour it slowly over the part (in this case the engine) - this will get heat into both the part and screws, plus any thread lock that may have been used, the heat causes the metal parts to expand (and thread lock to soften) and as different metals expand at different rates it will help loosen the screws off. I agree with OZ on the bearings, you need to use rubber sheilded bearings for an air tight seal, you can usually pick 1 of the seals out to allow lubrication to the inner bearing race whilst keeping the outer seal intact and air tight.
  12. As Reillour says you can through bolt the gear casing and rear axle to toughen it up, but what will kill a transmission is torque rather than outright RPM so I reckon you'd be OK. If you find yourself killing axles/axle casings you can get some extremely tough axles from RC4WD.com. I have to disagree about an open diff being easier to drive than a locked though, with an open diff you'll get bags of wheelspin, but only on one wheel and it'll break traction and you'll lose momentum, with a locked diff things are much more predictable, both wheels will spin at the same rate and you'll be able to balance the car on the throttle. One of my 1:1 vehicles has a limited slip diff in the rear axle and it's a joy to drive hard and is very controllable (on a private course, of course officer )
  13. Progress is progress Whenever I need bearings and seals for something I measure the existing ones and see If I can match them up elsewhere, the majority of the time a standard size is used so while the bits might be hard to get hold of from OS you may find them elsewhere. Got any pics of the car in question?
  14. That's the basics out the way then Funnily enough I was basing my experience of Nitro motors on a Kyosho RS200 I had years ago with an OS10 in it. The output shaft seal leaking points to a worn or perished crankshaft seal, if oil is getting out then you can guarantee that air is getting in, this leads to a lean mixture and you can only compensate for this with the mixture screw so far as the cases themselves will expand and contract with heat at a different rate to the steel bearings, in addition to a weak mixture you'll also suffer from what's known as 'secondary compression' which is the engines ability to breath in fuel/air mixture from the carb into the crankcases. Full size 2 strokes as used in motorcycles suffer the same. My advise would be to get a new crank bearing/seal and an o ring for the carb body (if it uses one, I can't remember as it was over 20 years ago I had the RS200)
  15. It's been a while since I last messed with Nitro stuff, but I'll give it a shot. (sorry if I'm being too basic) 1. Is the tank pressurised slightly when running, there should be some tubing between the exhaust manifold and the tank, the exhaust pulses pressurise the tank and it makes fuel flow to the carb. 2. Are you pull starting it or running it from an engine starter (IE is the engine turning in the correct direction, 2 strokes can run either way) 3. Is the carb and needle assembly meant for the GX12 or is it off something else. To help diagnose the problem, remove the fuel line and keep trying it, if it runs better after a short while and then sudenly dies you're running it too rich, if it gets worse you're running it too lean, adjust the carb to suit. A fairly worn out engine should still start and run, but a very worn motor will be a pain to keep going.
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