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Wooders28

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About Wooders28

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  • Birthday 04/21/1975

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    Cumbernauld, Scotland

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  1. I grabbed this from somewhere (can't remember where, if it was someone here, cheers!) Lipo give a volt more, (17% more power?) and hold the extra power for longer, they also can a provide higher discharge amps (so I added a few % 🙄) This is my understanding- A motor works by energizing a coil, which produces an electro magnet, the solid magnet on the motor shaft (armature) is attracted to it, so turns. When its almost at the coil, the coil switches off, and the next coil is energized, so the cycle continues. Now, when no timing is used, or running a sensorless system, once the rpm reaches 'X' amount, let's say, 20,000rpm (2700kv on 2s (2700 x 7.4) ), the magnet catches the coils, so can't go any quicker. So, if at that point you start to fire the coils earlier, the magnets won't catch the energized coil, so the rpm will rise, and keep rising the more timing is added. The dark art is predicting when to start to add timing, how much and how quickly. This is all dependant on how quickly the motor accelerates - so gear ratio, car weight, surface etc all plays a part. Add too much timing to soon and too quickly, won't give much in the performance front, and mostly just produce heat. An interesting (well, I think so....🙄) vid,
  2. Urm, less than a year, I changed the while set ,as every corner had a different brand and the handling was all over the place. Ive never had any tyre last anywhere near 60k miles, 15k tops, but I don't nurse it. Just ordered a full set of winters, it's a 600mile round trip to see my family over Christmas, and can be a bit, interesting, on summer tyres in the snow,(although they're rainsports, so not as bad as some).
  3. Depends on the jumper position. F/B/R is double tap F/B urm, no reverse.. F/R just goes straight into reverse, neutral is drag brake. I use this in my boomer, and set the reverse end point on the trans to act as an adjustable brake.
  4. It is, it's a yearly vehicle check in the UK, that ,by law has to be carried out by verified test garage, getting more strict every year (emissions are set by vehicle year of manufacture). I don't need to worry, I've had my golf a year, and it's already had a full new set of boots, and now the fronts are almost on the wear bars....🙄😏 RC wise, I'm around 10 -1 rears to fronts on my 2wd Laydown, mainly as the fronts don't actually need alot of tread to still do their job, it's the rears that do the work.
  5. Also,In fwd the fronts do all the work ,so wear quicker, the rears are just there for the ride. Its an MOT failure (uk) if the tyres have cracked side walls, even if the tread is ok, and talks of it being a failure if they are more than 5yrs old. Throw rears on the front and burn them up. I'm guessing it's different for rwd ,mainly as they usually don't have the same size rubber on all corners! (And of course, the rears burden some of the work)
  6. If they are running lipo, and you're nimh, they'll be around 20% quicker even with the same motor set up. I'm guessing you'll need good responce from your motor, so you'll be looking at a sensored set up. If you go for a 13.5t motor, and you need a bit more, you can give it a bit of timing. A stock 13.5t is around 3000-3500kv , which can be raised to around 5000kv with a good dollop of timing (and everything inbetween, it's a dark art though 🤯) Again, if you find it a bit quick you can (depending on your radio) always just drop the end point, having some extra oomph at your disposal if required.
  7. Not long bought a Sanwa Exzes Z, with a 472 telemetry rx, so good to hear the views. Do I need to buy other sensors? For some reason I though it was all built in, and took it's info off the esc?
  8. Have you tried the esc in forward / brake only? (Just to make sure forward is forward) Other than that, End Points on the transmitter? (Throttle @80% and/or brakes on 150% etc)
  9. This ⬆️ DT03 running intimidator paddles on FTX Mauler wheels, 3800kv / 3s lipo. Soft sand sucks the power out of a car, so you need something with a bit of go. (Probably sick of this vid by now, but 😝)
  10. I run Savox servos, and with a Cap in the reciever, they seem to run without issues. (Capacitor cost pennies off eBay, and relieved an old reciever battery pack of its lead)
  11. Thought all elecs are legal? (I'd ban gyros, but that's me...😬) Only rules are, must have a body shell, and must use ,model specific gearbox's and gears. Run a modified brushed motor and claim fastest brushed, someone will think it's beatable, and a new category is born 😀
  12. Once you swap from MSC's to ESC's the BEC is taken care of. Bitd, I used to solder a diode to the power feed terminal on the MSC, and pull the 6v from there, (which I think is what the Ultima came with on its msc?) but then I went to esc's in the late 80's, and used esc's since. The diode, did have the downside of the servos stopping working whilst the motor still had power, but it would only crawling, so just a quick jog to catch it.😂
  13. Sorry to throw this in the mix (and I can't believe my view, all mine are runners,I don't do shelfers!!) 😬 It sounds like you have more of a connection with it as a kit (hence the dilemma), I'd be tempted to get another for display / runner purposes, and display the kit as is.
  14. I only know of receivers - https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/radio-servo/hpi101668-hpi-rf-3-receiver-27mhz-am-p
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