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About Wooders28

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  • Birthday 04/21/1975

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    Cumbernauld, Scotland

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  1. Not really wanting to get in the middle of your, decision, and getting hit in the back of the head with a handbag, but , it's usually the upper end esc's that solely use a programmer. The quickly becoming goto brushless esc, Hobbywings 10BL120 , uses the on/off button to set it up. (Although granted, can be a bit of a faff if you're altering settings alot, where a programmer is easier 🙄). As I've said before, nothing against brushed, but everything "progresses", even the likes of battery drills are mostly going brushless (pretty similar with lithium batteries, you'll find most modern tech uses these cells, but that's another a̶r̶g̶u̶m̶e̶n̶t̶ decision....)
  2. Just a heads up, A local club are having a raffle for a NIB TT02 Escort Cosworth! https://www.facebook.com/groups/161092140649851/permalink/4088715961220763/?sfnsn=scwspwa
  3. As far as I know, both the yellows are connected inside the esc, and both the blue, so I don't think it matters which goes where, (as long as yellow and a blue to each motor) although as one of the motors turns the opposite way, it could be yellow- blue. (I did left yellow and left blue to one, and right yellow , right blue to the other..) On the esc, red is positive and black negative for the battery (and I'd fit deans/T plug or XT60, as , well, tamiya plugs are garbage...) With new esc's, I like to set them to forward only when testing, that way you know forward is forward, sometimes it can get confusing ,when forward is reverse, but going forward, and forward on the stick....🤯
  4. Your Bio says MK, so think your nearest club is the Silverstone club? https://www.facebook.com/silverstone.rcmcc/ Some clubs have separate buy/sell pages, just remember the usual, buying stuff off the internet rules (red flag if the seller demands bank transfer etc)
  5. Buying one of these cars at this level, you've normally the elecs to move over from the old race car. Although tyres are a consumable, and at that pace, consume at quite a rate.... Also, unless you've shortys lipos, you'll need those too. I've just modernised to LiHv, they're not that expensive now tbh. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/intellect-lipo-lihv-2s-18.5mm-shorty-4200mah-7.6v-446966 No buggy will handle as well as a modern race buggy, so if thats the main criteria then it's one of them, but if it's a bit of nostalgia thrown in too, then a Turbo Optima.... Not really saving you cash here 🙄😂, apart from maybe some 2nd hand race cars coming onto the market soon, now racing has started again, but you'll need to be a club member, or at least on club Facebook pages to get first dibs on cars.
  6. (I know it's a Tamiya Forum, but....) Schumacher L1, I paid £150 for a nice 2nd hand one recently. The new L1 evo's are around £400. Plenty of spares back up in the UK, will take any turn of 540 motor with no issues (a 4.5t going in mine ,around 9000kv, one I had in my K1) ,one of the best handling 4wd, and plenty of set up sheets online!! https://site.petitrc.com/setup/schumacher/setupcatl1/ Looks like the L1 evo handles ok....😯 https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10157626778151433&id=180970366432&anchor_composer=false
  7. As @Nicadraus said, it's possible to programme a (decent) sensored brushless set up to do anything you want it to, turn the punch down for docile, turn the punch up and add boost and some turbo for warp factor 10, adjust the drag brake for engine braking you want etc etc. But decent isn't cheap....
  8. Mine are either 15t firebolt / 1060 or brushless. The only reason I've got the 15t firebolts, is the cost, I was getting a 1060 and the firebolt for around £20 at one point , but the Goolrc brushless combos are only £30 these days! (Ok, 50% more expensive) I don't believe it'll be too long, before tamiya supply a brushless motor with some of their kits, their esc's have been brushless capable for ages (and the new esc has Lipo cut off!!! ) and costs are coming down (although granted, it would need to come down a fair way to beat the £3 silver can...) I think I've been spoilt with quick race cars. A silver can with Nimh just seem pedestrian ,almost wind up toy fast,
  9. Thanks for that! Really come to appreciate ,how much time, effort and funds are required to get a project like this underway!! We're putting together a list of places to stay, places to eat, what activities and family events are on at the Country Park, as we know what it's like trying to get away racing for the weekend! 🙄😁
  10. If you need torque, I don't rate the Goolrc, or anything cheap unfortunately. I found the Castle 3800kv, night and day quicker and more powerful, than the Goolrc 4300kv, even though the specs say otherwise (picked the Castle combo off eBay for around £60) , I ran a Castle 5700kv on 3s in a Dark Impact for years, and it was awesome (now a 7700kv speed run car) , I was £90 for the Castle Mamba max esc and motor off eBay, but that esc is 6s capable, and ran that combo on 5s, as the castle motors are rated to 100k rpm!!
  11. In other cars, usually, you stand the part containing the gears up, and fill it so it's flush with the planet gear shaft , get rid of any bubbles (can take a while with thick oil, a vac chamber helps speed things up) and then nail it together. I put 7000k in my recent Ultima build, and filled it, as the plastic part has a large chamber, it feels ok. Yet to get the esc installed, so not given it a run yet.
  12. With only a 60a esc, I'd say you're close to the limit of the esc running 3s /4000kv, so if you've pinions/gear options, go for lower gearing, especially in a heavy car.
  13. For brushed, my goto is the 15t firebolt and 1060 esc, of you want quicker than that, you may aswell go brushless (unless it must be brushed) I've just built a Kyosho Ultima, and went with this combo - Tried and tested ,10BL120 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=425021 And a 10.5t motor (around 4300kv, but sensored, so I can add some timing for more KV) https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=35157 Plus a sensor lead. The way the Ultima is designed, the esc fan sits on top of the top plate, and bolts to the esc under it, so need some longer bolts before i can get it nailed in.
  14. Wheels look to fill the arches anyway? So maybe need wider hexes (and low profile wheel nut), different off set / wider wheels, for it to look right with Red arches.
  15. I know the 1060 esc goes into half speed when nearing voltage cut off, kind of gives you a heads up and try drive back. As stated, a high demand motor, sucks the volts down under acceleration, so the likes of the 1060 go half speed thinking the battery is almost flat, then the volts go back up, so it resets itself. In the almost decade of using lipos, I don't think I've ever checked the chargers Mah battery level. I tend to go off the balance , especially after a run. As the esc only sees a full voltage from the 2 cells, say 6v before cut off, if one of the cells is a bit duff, one could be 2.8v and the other 3.2v. Discharging takes effort, I think they use resistors, but that produces heat, so you need cooling fans and heat sinks etc etc. If you look at the price of the chargers with 5A + discharge rates, they're usually double the price (but usually brilliant chargers, so not just discharge parts)
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