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Wooders28

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About Wooders28

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  • Birthday 04/21/1975

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    Cumbernauld, Scotland

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  1. Aye, it's doesn't drive off into the night, it'll just blip when it looses signal, so then the servo stops drawing power, and the receiver kicks back in again, but it is noticeable. As I say, there's a modern trend of getting the fastest most powerful servo , then wondering when the reciever keeps cutting out....(Savox are famous for it, and the likes of the 1060 esc, only have 3A power available for the servo) I only know all this, as I've a favourite battery (well 2, a 2s and a 3s), that I used to power my DF03 (5700kv/5s) to be the fastest 'in the world' (Clarkson voice 🀣).. , unfortunately trying the same set up in the DT03, netted a smokey motor, blown up/smoking esc, and 2 lipos that now have grumpy cells.... They're just ornaments, but could really do with sending them off for recycling. I used the old skool trick for the last one I sent off for recycling, plugged in a car headlight bulb ,and just left it for a day or 2,.until zero volts, then the local tip said they'd take it.
  2. πŸ™‹β€β™‚οΈ Driven sticks for pretty much 40yrs, my kids drive wheel (they had one of each to choose from, and preferred wheel...πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ). I've tried it, and it's , well, wrong. Back to thinking which way the steering is coming back to me, tapping the brake over jumps etc, just wasn't natural (like trying to shoot a gun with my left hand). Hamg on, does that mean Futaba are going the way of Sanwa, and not going to offer a stick radio soon....πŸ₯ΊπŸ˜­
  3. Yeah but, no but... A damaged lipo (there's no sugar coating it, that lipo is for the recycling centre....) won't fix itself. Once a cell has gone below 3v, it won't be the same again, will always be grumpy, and take an age to balance charge (if I remember right, the charger will give full juice until 80% ish charge, then trickles off, and starts to charge each cell individually, to 'balance' them, so if one is way off, it takes ages at the lower current). That grumpy cell will always then discharge quicker, and if you're only using the ESC's low volt cut off, it's only looking for an overall voltage, so you could have the grumpy cell at 2.5v, and the other at 3.5v, before the 6v low cut off kicks in....😬 With the grumpy cell not having much oomph, you 'may' start to get 'brown out' where the servo robs all the current away from the receiver (seems to be happening a bit more these days, with people jumping to 25KG + superfast servos), with the receiver cutting out for a split second. The obvious risk, with a grumpy lipo, is fire...🫣
  4. Funnily enough, they where late to the party, and didn't arrive until the mid 90's? Battery and motor tech had moved on, and wasn't the 1200 - 1800mah nicads of the mid- late 80's with bearing motors instead of bushes (although available, really expensive before the 90's, and out of paperboy wages reach..). Batteries had more than doubled in capacity (think Nimh was out by then?), so although still critical, not AS critical, but think Kyosho still didn't swap to shaft until early - mid 2000's, with the belts are better mindset?
  5. That'll be the FIA (or whichever governing body) regulation spec. Not sure how you'd mount it though?
  6. Both! This is like the one I got, although, not sure how easy it would unscrew, if hot? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/richbrook-discarnect-immobiliser-r-b1000-01/
  7. Looking superb bud!!! πŸ‘ For peace of mind, I'd fit a battery cut off on the battery (nothing fancy). As the main power lead runs under the car to the boot, they can sometimes get damaged, short against the body, and weld themselves on, turning your battery into a lovely glowing red bubbly mess....😬. (This happened to me, on a first date, with me in my best clobber, desperately trying to undo a red hot terminal off the battery....πŸ€£πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ)
  8. Back then, racing was alot was about efficiency. If your car was more efficient, you could run taller gears and /or lower turn motor, and your battery would last the race. Belt drive, is the most efficient way to transmit the power , so if you had a shaft drive, with its extra , energy sapping gears. and the belt cars ,having more top speed, better acceleration ,a shaft drive car had the odds stack against them from the off. So when you looked for a new car, a shaft wasn't considered a race car πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ With modern lithium batteries and efficient brushless motors, it's just not even a consideration these days, I think it's just Schumacher that still use belts in their 4wd?
  9. The Exzes Z was notorious for range issues, and one of the reasons the ZZ came out.
  10. I would say, with quite success! πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ
  11. Thanks Mr postie!, Hopefully get this speedrun car built, before the good weather comes (whichever day it is this year....)
  12. Can't seem to find it on the Legends page, but bet he's had some amount of hits on his website! πŸ€”πŸ€£
  13. I used to keep receipts (before spreadsheets, although, I don't know how to use those things anyway...), for RC and then my 1:1 projects further down the line. It got scary glancing through and having quick reckoning up , especially when I started thinking of compound interest! 😬 The scariness stepped up exponentially, when I got married..πŸ™„πŸ€£ Although, all my RC cars & gear (the 1:1 project has its own layed up insurance cover) are stored in the garage, which looks to only have Β£1000 worth of insurance cover, and just my race car probably costing close to that (factoring in the radio gear etc) I should probably maybe get one of these, spreadsheets , and get suitable insurance cover, if nothing else....
  14. Also, it's a hassle to cancel a listing and relist (and costs if I remember right) , if for example, you have to go away for work/ go on holiday etc. It's easier just to edit the price to a, no one in their right mind would buy it, price, and edit it again , once you're back.
  15. Tbh, I've not bought a great deal since the covid tax took over, and the prices have gone through the roof. Buying, I've not had a great deal of problems in over 20yrs, the only notable, was when the tracking had said it had been delivered, but I was in all day, and it hadn't. When I gave the tracking number to the post office, all they could tell me, was that the number wasn't even scotland.....😳. 2 minds, if it was a genuine mistake (sent 2 to 1 address, mixed up the orders etc) ,or if you actually post something ,recorded delivery back to yourself, you'd get your item back, and eBays backing... (as the tracking had said it had been delivered, eBay didn't want to know, and my case was settled in favour of the seller...) Selling can be pain, especially if it starts going through Ebays global shipping. You don't know if its going to a different country, until you get the address, and then it's just UK address (Litchfield?). So you're not sure if it's a restricted item (if it is, it gets destroyed , but the buyer gets refunded) I've had buyers message saying it was broken/not as described/ wrong etc, and I said I'd give a full refund (Inc shipping) once they returned it, and I've yet to have anyone send anything back..πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ Then there's having to box, send , plus eBay fees, and PayPal fees, which always seem more than you think they're going to be!
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