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About Wooders28

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  • Birthday 04/21/1975

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    Cumbernauld, Scotland

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  1. Depending how much of a rush you are, I've a 13.5t in my daughters ,but just got her a 10.5t I need to fit in. If she's ok with the 10.5t , I'll sell the 13.5t.
  2. As already stated, tamiya are protecting themselves, but interesting that they consider their own brand of motors less powerful? (15.5t tamiya = 21.5t other brand) Although, as the TBLM02s motor, looks pretty much a Speed Passion motor, and having raced a 6.5t SP ,and found it to be around the same as a Reedy M3 8.5t motor, I can see their point... The famed Hobbywing 1060, is rebranded and sold by a few manufacturers, all with different quoted turn limits!! There are so many variables with motors, even using KV or turns, so 'discussions ' always happen. There's even a few different Silver can 540's ,and one of those ,mabuchi quote as a 70amp stalled amp draw! Also depends on the surface. Running on tarmac, you can go hotter on the motor, and still pull less amps, than say running on the beach ,(a sandy beach is hard to power over, I normally jump to 3s on the beach).
  3. Think most of what I thought, has been covered anyway, but just to throw something else in the mix. Modern tracks are higher grip than bitd, especially carpet. I've cut spikes off fronts before now, as you grip roll the car otherwise, where on grass/dirt, you struggled to find grip! The rears wear first, as under power the front end is light, and the weight transfers to the rear, and with modern power, the front end might just be touching the ground (if the slipper is set right), it's only under braking and steering, the fronts do work, and if you're running a one way, they don't even do braking!! (Not a fan of one ways tbh, you have to brake like a 2wd)
  4. Would 2" wheels be a shout? Although, getting the designed centres in the tyres, is normally a swear inducing experience.....😬
  5. My goto motor and esc, is a 15t Firebolt /CoreRC and a 1060 esc, cheap as chips, and just works. If you find you want to go quicker, brushless (I messed about trying to stay brushed, going to a 12t ,but its cheaper ,easier and quicker ,going brushless) Bearings, Hardened pinion (17 or 19t are the factory options for a 540, but a 20t does fit). As well as shocks (I went with 3Racing, but needed to swap out the oil, as it was too thick), I also upgraded the driveshafts, I went with these on my dt03 (same gearbox and arms, so should work on the dt02) https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-g45-steel-differential-outdrive-for-tamiya-tt02-tatt-s04-tatt-018-3-00106028 https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-g45-universal-steel-swing-shaft-for-tamiya-df03-tt02b-df03-015v2-00026617 Mod vs DP, the only one that is close enough to work, is 32dp / 08mod (32dp = 07938 mod) none of the others are close enough to work. I've seen adverts on modelshop websites selling 48dp pinions for a DF03 (05mod), and they don't work at all (but don't mix them in a draw, with 0.03mm of a difference, its hard to tell.....😭🤦‍♂️)
  6. As an ex sewing machine mechanic (my dad's an ex sewing machine mech /dealer ,although in his mid 80's, he's still servicing domestics!!), there's some amount of work, just making folders for machines in industry.
  7. I've had one go under the 3v, which I got charged (nimh charge to above 3v, then balance charged), but the indifference between the 2 cells voltage after use is quite alot, and takes over an hour to balance charge. Still works though 🤷‍♂️ I don't think making your own lipo packs is a thing, as they just work! Be fun to try though...😳🔥 This is the best lipo guide I found - https://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/
  8. I know bitd, you paid more for Nicad 'matched cells' ,which each cell had a controlled charge and discharge cycle, and 6 with the same good cycle graph where 'matched' together, giving a much better performing pack. Unmatched cells lead to the better cell doing all the work, and carrying the other cells (I've had cheap nicads ,where one or two cells got warm) Not sure if lipos today are given the controlled pairing in expensive 'named' race packs , or if balance charging means it isn't necessary? I know some of my cheaper packs (ones I've paid £4 for....), I've had to raise the low voltage cut off, as @6.5v cut off, one cell was 3.5v and the other 3v after use, where my new Intellect shorty cells are pretty much the same voltage after use (well, within 0.1v)
  9. Right ok, I'll really need to get a bit more into it, but don't want to go too far from the stock look. Aye, I was looking at the Alpine 170mm, as there's an offer with tweeters, but not sure if that's just going to give me work work/head ache ,as tweeters need to be higher up, on the A pilar, or mount them in the dash, where the stock (fairly useless) speakers sit....🤔 I work in an MDF factory, most things I do, are in MDF..🙄😁 Vinyl, as the seats are vinyl. Bought and fitted these, front and rear (in the dark blue) https://www.classicindustries.com/product/1979/pontiac/firebird/parts/f1027800212.html Dark blue seats / interior, black carpet, not sure about headlining yet, might be worth going for white or cream, to lift it a bit, although it is a T - top, so most of it is glass anyway. Going for Audi Segang blue paint, close to the stock '79 Nocturne blue, but with a modern metallic up lift, Gold 8x15 snowflake wheels, with the grills in the wings gold, to tie it in.
  10. Thanks a lot! I'm hoping it's going its to be cheaper than importing new ones.. Not quite sure yet tbh, I've never seen them, most custom stuff I've seen is OTT. I wouldn't mind a door pocket (stock ones ,are more like a elasticated sleeve), and want a speaker pod, but subtle ,not like a 'Max Power' monstrosity , so I'm going to have to measure up, and see if a plastic pocket/speaker pod, out of another 2 door that can be found in a scrap yard locally, recovered , and can be made to fit. I like stock looking, but not stock (if that makes sense?, In the middle of an LED rear sequential light conversion, that I've had to redo, as they looked too like LED.....😬)
  11. Makes sense, with storage charge being midway, I'm still storage charging them to 3.8v though....🙄 (Mainly, I'm still running ,normal lipos too, and too lazy to keep altering the charger )
  12. Aye, the same care is required, storage, not lower than 3v ,charge in a charge bag, just with liHv able to take a higher voltage, they're less stressed at 'normal' lipo voltage.
  13. As mine are dying, I'm upgrading to liHv. With a possible charge upto 4.35v per cell, compared to lipos of 4.2v, high voltage lipos I'm considering a safer option, if you charge them to 4.2v ,as they're less stressed (if that makes sense....)
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