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About Wooders28

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  • Birthday 04/21/1975

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    Cumbernauld, Scotland

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  1. Setting up from scratch is unfortunately not cheap, Looking like you're in the UK, I'd recommend Modelsport or Fusion, they support this forum and if I've had issues with parts I've bought , it's been resolved flawlessly. Charger , I'd say a 12/240v, charge off the car if you're out, plenty to choose:- https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?CategoryID=9920&SubCategoryID=992030&MSAttributeID[34]=618&MSAttributeID[35]=886 Lipo wise, I go with the core rc, yes they're cheaper out there, but they fit were a 7.2v nicad does, so (should!) be hassle free fitment. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-4000mahr-7-4v-30-60c-2s-lipo/rc-car-products/388538 As for the brushless esc and motor (combo), for cost, the Goolrc are hard to beat, £30 for a 4300kv combo (with the cheaper motors, I tend to go for a faster motor, as they are slower than the better motors, if that makes sense) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123227565781 but as with cheap eBay stuff, you get what you pay for, and I don't think quality control is a high priority, I've not had any issues, but some people have, so 🤷‍♂️ If you've got a better budget, and/or plan on going quicker later, want more tuning options (punch control, brake strength, Lipo cut off voltage etc etc) or motor options, Hobbywings 10bl120 is great value, can run sensored or sensorless, 2s/3s and run down to a 3.5t motor (on 2s, 8.5t on 3s)! For under £40. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored/rc-car-products/425021 Motors, this is where it gets interesting, if you go for the 10bl120, pretty much any 540 size motor. Sensorless are cheaper, can be stuttery and the max rpm is set in stone (the KV - rpm per volt). Sensored are more expensive but are a better motor, and with having a position sensor, you can add timing via the esc (if capable) and so increase the RPM (why they use, turns, not KV). Don't have a Blitzer Beetle, but somewhere between a good 13.5t and a cheaper 8.5t would be in the ball park.
  2. I'm pretty sure most, if not all, the re release parts fit.
  3. Fooled me enough to zoom in, then read the post! 👍
  4. Here's my K1 with a 4.5t on 2s, no load (pretty much) max rpm. Here's exact same set up (but with grippy tyres) after a run on astro turf, around 30% less. (Might have not got up to full speed in the room I had?) My Yokomo truck runs a 3800mah /110c with a 6.5t, and gets just under 6mins..... Full charge to cut out :-
  5. That's unloaded RPM. I do wonder if companies are, generous with their ratings? 🙄 Looking at the official specs, the Goolrc 4300kv has a max of 75A, (must be stall amps). 4A would be the lower end of the scale (gentle throttle/ cruising?), I'm guessing it would be closer to 20+ under hard acceleration. I swapped from the 4300kv Goolrc to a 3800kv Castle, and the castle is so so much faster. But just the castle motor is almost 3x the price of the full Goolrc system.🤷‍♂️
  6. Looks perfect, really hope they don't spoil it with 2.2" wheels with the end product!!
  7. My DT03 has a 3800kv (13.5t ish) and without weight, will back flip onto its roof ,without the front wheels even turning....
  8. I would go for a complete new brushless combo, the tble02s requires a sensored brushless motor, and for the price of those, you can have a Goolrc sensorless brushless motor and esc (with deans connector and low volt Lipo cut off, if you go down the route). This is one I use in one of mine - https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223615173305 (If you want a shop about, look for a 3.175mm shaft on the motor -some say 3.2) Quick look on YouTube, grasshopper with the above combo -
  9. It's possible to run 16,17,19 and 20t pinions. The 16t running in the 17t position gives about 60% mesh, but still ran 4300kv on 3s without an issue, the 20t works if you only hold the motor with one bolt, ran this with a 7700kv on 3s without issue , (3800kv /3s with sand ingress didn't end well though...)
  10. Looks similar size to the Orion rocketsport 3s, fitted in more models than I thought it would! You'll find they'll back flip or wheelspin before the gearbox gives up. I've made steel bumpers, but others have used stick on weights used for 1:1 car tyre balancing, to try and keep the nose down 😁👍
  11. Have you glued the tyres on? Sometimes once you start running decent power, one of the tyres can slip on one of the wheels, driving the car left or right. Try swapping the wheels over (left hand to right hand side) and see if it goes the other way.
  12. When I (now regrettably) sold my Mid custom, the guy phoned me back (in the 'loot' days, when giving your phone number was the norm), and asked why there was a drilled tooth brush in the box?? I'd broken the shock tower at a race meet, didn't have a spare, but had a hand drill and a tooth brush to brace it up to get me through the final 🤷‍♂️😁
  13. Couple of mm bigger I think, so doubt you'd notice, I can take a couple of pics of them all in the boomerang? This is the 2 x super shorty 2s lipos, a bit off , get in you little fighter...🙄
  14. I've a few 3s, a hard case Orion rocket sport (don't look to make them anymore) a few floueon ones, that a few of us got off ebay for next to nothing (under £4 each!, out of stock within the hour 🙄) and a couple of turnigy 3.3 and turnigy 3.0 from hobbyking, looking at getting a 5000mah for speed runs. Smaller of the ones I've got. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-battery-3000mah-3s-40c-lipo-pack-xt-60.html?countrycode=GB&gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=CjwKCAjw7anqBRALEiwAgvGgm97M_1-a7kCpsXMe0Z5ERVUaXRYYkgS3cFH6JFRidArqudAzo88z9RoCed0QAvD_BwE&___store=en_us
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