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Wooders28

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About Wooders28

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  • Birthday 04/21/1975

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    Cumbernauld, Scotland

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  1. Yep, I've been asked the 'going home for summer' question, by people who've only just met me, (fair enough, once they've heard me speak ), 90% of the time, its by the by small talk, normally followed by 'where is it you're actually from?' ,then , 'do you know Dave, he lives near there, in Birmingham...' (100 + miles away...πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ), and I'm perfectly fine with that tbh, beats 'nice weather'... You can tell the other 10% ,as they'll usually add - 'and F** in stay there'.... Having read posts on social media, and having to deal with , face in phone, teenagers in work ,who only seem to respond to TikToc or Memes, I worryingly think thats there's something in that..😳
  2. Bit of a strange 7 days.. Last Friday, was my weekend, and figured I'd try and get the Schuamcher Fusion running and driving, with all the neighbours in work, kids in school, and as I've not run it run it (actually driving it out of 1st gear, using the handset , rather than just running it up o the bench). Filter had seen better days - Found a new car wash sponge, and donated some of it ,as a filter ,and got it running!! πŸ’ͺ Couple of drifts up and around the monoblocks, and adjust so it was running nice, stopped, topped up the tank, grabbed the body etc, and headed to the street to run it up through the gears, except, it wouldn't start again....🀬🀬. Kids needed picked up from school a short time after , so...πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ Ended up in hospital, on Saturday, after work, with an 'incarcerated umbilical hernia ' and had emergency surgery. Back home Monday and signed off work for 2 months 😳! Kids off today, as its a Bank holiday in Glasgow (September weekend), so relaxing ,isn't really going to happen until Tuesday.... I've a few RC projects on the back burner, rebuild the Dark Impact, convert a Mid to shorty lipo, 2 x nib DT03's I've to decide what to do with and maybe go through my 'stock' and have a thin out, a few I haven't used for years..
  3. I'll agree. You really do ,pay your money, take your chance' with the cheap stuff. I got the combo to try, it's in a boomerang atm and on 2s (a bit gutless), but ran 3s for ages, and it's been fine....so far ⏳️😳
  4. Bit of progress recently! Took @Toolmaker72 advice, and took one of the gauges around the beauty places, and bought some nail varnish, close to the pointer colour, so that's that done 😁 (don't think the lady in the store, had had a match request for a fuel pressure gauge before though...) With the heater box done and working, I've decided to paint the metal part of the dash, the colour the car is going to be, Audi Sepang metallic blue. This then will allow me to fit all the heater ducting, heater box, and then all the engine water hoses plus start with the dreaded electrics over winter....⚑️😳 I've been phoning / emailing about looking for quotes to get the body painted, but with a 2yr+ backlog because of covid, no one is willing to commit, so, decided to have a go at spraying the dash with a new HVLP gravity gun I bought years ago, learn how to paint a metallic see how I get on ,with the view of doing the whole car myself..... So started with taking off the paint, I figured I'd hit it with modern day zinc primer, as once the windscreen is in, it'll be hard/impossible to get to, so attacked it with a wire knott brush on an angle grinder....of course ,SURPRISE!! And a little spot of rust on the pillar..... Which looks like someone has had a go at before! So, only option, was to drag the welder out... Ground down the welds with a dremel, amd a bit of filler, as the dash pad goes over anyway. Onto the painting... Figured sheeting everything, was easier than moving everything (would need to find somewhere to put it for a start!), effectively splitting the garage in two, meant I had a ,clean zone, at the back of the garage, to put the compressor, so drawing in clean air. The Audi colour requires a grey primer ,so once that was layed down, and slightly scoured, I layed on the blue. Loving the colour!, (speaker grills required a plastic adhesion promoter primer), Oh no!, had a couple of splatters....🀬. This I've since found out, is mainly because the spray gun I'd bought, is a 1.7mm nozzle (seemingly good for rendering the house....πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ) and way too big for what I need, so a 1.3mm has been ordered... Decided to give it a wee rub down, and a blow over, turning the pressure up slightly, and the paint feed down, leaving longer between light coats, which actually worked well! But, I'm presuming ,with the base coat now blue, not grey, the paint is looking purple (if any painter's are out there, let me know if it is that? ), so now it looks wrong ,and the speakers don't match..... Live and learn, so once the new gun arrives, and I get more primer , paint and matt clearcoat (to try and take the shine off, to reduce glare in the sunshine), it's back to metal again, and start over....
  5. Should give you many years trouble free motoring!! (although, I've maybe just given you the kiss of death....😬). I got a rebuild/shift kit for mine, but after finding it's one of the first 27 spline 700r4's, I'm just going to look for a built 4l60e or 4l80e (but the transtunnel needs hit with a heavy stick ,to get to fit) , as GM swapped to a 30 spline a year later, seemingly because of the amount of warranty claims...😳 I believe the logic switches are exactly the opposite for a 4l60 as they are for a 4l80.. First in a 60 - on/on .....80 - on/off Second - off / on......80 - off / off Third - off / off ......80 - off / on Fourth - on / off.....80 - on/ on Would hope the ecu can be programmed? I think the 10 speeds are a different animal, and have their own ecu built into the box, which need to talk to the engine ecu. So if you're going that route, you'd need the full wiring harness too. Found an old hard drive, when I was having a clear out, which had an old vid if mine running with the old z28 ecu / maf etc (just to make sure it ran, before rewiring for Megasquirt)
  6. Also, nuclear vs coal fired power station, nuclear is a much better fuel, and quite safe, but, only when handled correctly and all procedures are followed (RA for containment etc). I think I've said on another thread, you'll struggle to find any tech these days, that's not powered by lithium, relatively small, light weight and energy dense, they're literally ,made for the job. Not only phones and tablets ,but battery drills etc (which are quickly becoming brushless too! ...but that's another topic πŸ’£ πŸ™„).
  7. I had to split mine the same way, like something out of 'The Hurt Locker' and hearing 'cut the blue wire'!! 😱🀣 Outside though, obviously.....πŸ™„πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
  8. Never really looked too much into it, but , £25 for an esc, flash with hobbywing firmware, giving real boost & turbo options, so actually better than the 10bl120?!?! 🀯
  9. I've heard a few people rave about these escs. Seemingly, you can 'flash them with the hobbywing firmware, and they're awesome... https://m.facebook.com/groups/143755283082972/permalink/958847318240427/?comment_id=958897991568693 Had a quick look on YouTube, and, looks the LCD one :-
  10. Being British, working in heavy engineering and being a member of the works 'lock-out, tag out' safety Committee, oh yes! 🀣 One of the reasons the BRCA have the, buying from a known UK supplier rule. Working in manufacturing all my working life, I know how the quality control works, in reality. Yes things (anything to a point), can be made in the same factory, but, the best quality goes to the best/highest paying customer (M&S used to be the top, when I was in the clothing trade) and then the rest goes to everyone else , some best quality and some not so much (below a certain quality, obviously doesn't go out at all). With the likes of the cheap 'goolrc' combs, some combos are brilliant and last years, whilst others let out magic smoke at the first plug in, really is just about luck, pay your money, take your chance. Unless 100% quality checks, (even when I worked for Garretts ,we only checked 10% for tolerance) you'll never know, so some will inevitably slip though.
  11. I prefer, lipos are grumpier ,when getting charged. Driving Off Road, we 'abuse' them more than most imo, and chuckle a bit, when I see lipos 2nd hand, 'only used for 2 race meetings, always storage charged, never abused', even though, its been essentially, dropped 4ft onto the ground, every single lap....
  12. I've read , the chance of a lipo fire, is similar chance of being in a plane crash, so small, but still a chance. I believe, alot of fires in , the early days, where due to us being used to nicad/nimh, and so just using them wrong (thinking we need to discharge etc), plus when it's new tech, you get, teething issues.... These days, and the likes of LiHv lipos (not known a liHv to go up yet?), being capable of being charged to 8.7v , so when charged to the 'legal' 8.4v, are not being stressed. Most of the fires I've seen on FB, have been people parallel charging and/or charging at high rates plus not in fire proof bags/box, so not allowing the fire to be contained (you'd be kicked out of our club, if you refused to charge in a charge bag). Might be the kiss of death, but, I've had issues with a nicad (charging at too high a rate), and a nimh (B6 charger on the wrong setting, resulting in the battery exploding....😳) but zero with lipo. One shorty I had, when is was rushing for a final, I plugged in the wrong way, and I thought I'd blown the esc. Turned out, there was a small circuit inside, and it dropped down to 1 cell, not sure if it's a safety feature? (Had to put a clip on it though, to discharge before disposal) Slightly? I find lipos night and day better, like going from 4k TV, back to CRT TV. I thought I'd keep a few nicad & nimh, but once I'd switched to lipo, I've given them all away (think I might have one somewhere...) , as a lipo at low voltage cut off, is around the running voltage of a charged nimh. I guess if you're running a silver can, it might not be as noticeable, but as you start stepping up motors, the difference gaps gets wider and wider. If you can charge with the whole car in a flame proof box, and happy with the potential risk to loose your car, when it's being charged, then I don't see an issue tbh (without the lipo alarm though , that'll just drain the battery below 3v per cell, and render it useless). If you did plan on using it at a club though, they'll require you to charge it in a bag, although, you can argue it is....πŸ€”I'd suggest a liHv shorty, and only charge to 8.4v (as per 'normal' lipo). I've been looking at the TD4, and was wondering, if it's possible to switch a shorty to run width ways, like the TD2? That would kind of solve your issues?
  13. Kyosho use 4mm shafts, and 4 x 8 x 3mm bearings (Tamiyas 840 bearing), where tamiya use 5mm shafts, meaning the option is only 5 x 8 x 2.5mm (tamiyas 850 bearing), which at 2.5mm width, are 0.5mm thinner, giving you the 1mm shim requirement.
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