Wooders28

I believe CoreRC is a subsidiary of Schumacher, so that maybe the case.

Never actually tried it in a Hornet, but these have fitted anywhere a 6s 7.2v Nicad/nimh have fitted. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/core-rc-4000mahr-74v-30-60c-2s-lipo-388538

Is that not the Ezrun Max 10? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-ezrun-max10-g2-80a-esc-1350173

Aaa, could be, but the specs say - Specifications Cont. / Peak Current: 120A / 760A Motor Type: Sensorless / Sensored Brushless Motor (only in sensorless node) But, can't seem to see a sensor port..🧐

Looking like the waterproof 10bl120 G2, is a different ESC to the 10bl120 G2? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl120-sensored-esc-g2-1359347 'Normal ' G2, 3s max, boost &turbo , adjustable voltage 4A BEC https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/hobbywing-quicrun-wp-10bl120-g2-brushless-sensorless-esc-1351648 WP G2, 4s max, no mention of Boost & Turbo, adjustable BEC, but 5A.

How i understand it... A sensorless motor, uses feedback from a not energised coil (when a magnet is spun in a coil, it produces electricity, so the esc measures that signal), to have a guesstimate which direction the motor is turning, as to which coil to fire/energise next (ie coil 1,2,3,4 clockwise 1,4,3,2 anticlockwise). If the ESC doesn't really see the signal (usually ,a low current /voltage battery, and/or too tall gearing) it will 'Cog' as it jumps forward and backwards trying to work out its direction. They're cheap, and for the best part, work. This is my DT03 with a cheap sensorless Goolrc 4300kv/3s - With a, not so cheap sensorless Castle 3800kv/3s - (Loads more speed and power, you get what you pay for...) Sensored use a sensor on the end bell of the motor, so no guesswork, but more electronics = more expensive. Zero 'cogging' so yeah, more control. But the main advantage for me, is the ultimate control all through the RPM range, as with a suitable ESC, you can add timing (boost), for more power through the rev range and add timing at full throttle (turbo), and almost double the max RPM of the motor, whilst still maintaining drivabilty. The new (G2) Hobbywing 10bl120 has some basic boost & turbo timing options (not tried them yet though).

I'm backshift this year, Christmas week , and hoping Santa brings a Super Avante, fingers crossed I can get a bulk of it, if not all built in work (all the gaffers will be tucking into turkey and quaffing wine with their families, so no chance of them, popping in..) , so I'd vote for the Avante build 😁

Merry Christmas 🎄 !!! Don't let that Elf near the controller..🫣🤣

That was a cheap ebay find, I'm kind of thinking everyone on here would have changed it long before then! What got me, was the amount of aluminium grinding paste in the gearbox, so changed all the gears anyway (they're all in gear bag with the new spur anyway). Imo, they're from an era of plastic bushes and servo savers, but we know tamiya doesn't like change, and some people don't like change (I get annoyed when they swap the supermarket around these days..🫣)

I'll just leave this here....🫣

Just to throw in my 2p, A tamiyaclub sticker/decal reg plate, for the likes of the Lunchbox, for a nod would be brilliant! Maybe a gold version only available for paid up members....

Have a pair of those on the rear of my Yokomo YZ2-T, they're super soft, but really grippy on wet Astro, but as they're soft, balloon right up down the straight (Reedy 6.5t though, so ita shifting), and hit the body.

🥳 (Unless my wife realises actually how many there are....😳) Glad I don't have to clean your cage!! 🤢

I have a real soft spot for the Ultima!! After my first car being a Frog, and it was a real let down tbh, as the gearbox its hex driveshafts & diff would just be a constant issue, especially if you went for a hot motor, like a Parma K stock...(obviously not a hot motor, but the Frogs useless gears thought so..🤦‍♂️) When i first saw the Ultima in a Radio Race Car advert, I had to have one, it was seemingly winning, and looked right, loved the roll cage, even the wheels suited it, so I saved and saved my paper round money etc, and bought it!! (Had the turbo Ultima wheels for carpet tyres, the body was Vac Formed in school, but as it was school plastic, wouldnt usually last a meeting 🫣) Tbh, in the UK at the time, 'foreign' brands like Associated weren't really available (not sure if the exchange rate, import duty etc, made them too expensive/hassle to get across the pond) , so you had the choice of Tamiya, Mardave, Schumacher , Marui , PB or Kyosho. The majority of cars on the tracks then, where Tamiya or Mardave, with the serious racer driving a Schumacher. The Ultima was above the Tamiya and Mardave, but not in the same class as the Schumachers imo, but with those guys spending more on batteries and motors, than I had in my whole set up, that probably helped. The Ultima was not overly expensive, and came with a motor and MSC, so at least you could get racing, and save your pocket /paper round money for a 112b esc, le man's motor etc (ran the K stock from the Frog, with absolutely zero gearbox or diff issues) Pic of our choice, from an Otley Modelsport advert of march '88 - (Price of the bearings!?! , that would put just the bearings for the Ultima, close to £70 in today's money..😳, also note our choice of Radio, either Stick radio, or urm, a Stick radio!! I went with, Acoms) Bit random, but , early 90's, top of the Eiffel Tower 😁

You can't have one RC!!! That's like picking one food to eat for the rest of your life.... Maybe one 4wd Off Road Buggy ,one 2wd Off Road Buggy, one 4wd On Road, one 4wd IC, one Monster Truck Etc 🙄

Are the Vanquish wheels 2"? I've run these Schumacher tyres on my Mid, and they're brilliant on tarmac, and the blue compound surprisingly really hard wearing (not as much grip as the yellow compound, but 🤷‍♂️) Rears - https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-block-rears-blue-cat-2280 Fronts - https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-block-fronts-blue-cat-pr--2279

Wow, they're $225 in the UK (£180) and I thought that was cheap!!

Depends on what level you want to 'restore' them? Just to get runners, with parts you've got laying about, even a 2wd bommer, then maybe. If you're looking for a concourse/shelfer, then you'll be cheaper just buying a new rere.

A few at the club have done the same, but I'm a stubborn old bloke, and if I've paid for a faster response time, I'm using it!! 🙄🤣

Get well soon buddy!

I had/have a few of the Corerc £50 stick radios, went to the Sanwa Exzes ZZ, and had to learn to drive again, as I kept hitting the pipe on the apex, as the car was turning in too early, so yes, the latency is soo much less.

I'd be hoping it did other wife 'duties' for that price tbh...🙄🤣🤣🤣 I've the Exzes ZZ, and it's absolutely sublime, but you'd need to be a serious serous RCer, to understand, never mind use all the features!!! I know I've shared this a few times, but, Exzes ZZ manual, and yes, all English (not 3 pages of info, from each language from around the world) Not sure what extra the Ziii can do..🤷‍♂️

As title, the new Sanwa Exzes Ziii Stick Radio has landed for pre order..... How much!??!?! 😳 https://www.racing-cars.com/news/news66/sanwa-exzes-ziii

Possible to do? (Not bought one, but with the price of them atm...)

Funny you should mention that! I'd 'noped out' on the TD4, because of that reason, but after downloading the manual, it looked like I could get a shorty lipo would fit across its width, maybe.. Then it came down in price, and I put it on my short list, until it was mentioned I needed a low profile servo, which I don't have (do have a few Corerc 9016MG, Savox 1257tg and SMT full size servos spare...) , and not had much luck with in the past, soooo 🤔