Wooders28

Didn't even know those existed!! Tbh, my charger gives individual voltages anyway, unless there's a fault , (a low cell voltage or a balance lead fault), where checking with my meter let's me know the problem. Yes, I could put it on Nicad/Nimh setting ,and charge until the cell came above 3v, and then balance charge, but I think I had to do that with the Orion once before (when the 6v lipo cut off kicked in, it was 3.4/2.6v) so although it's one of my more expensive packs, it's done.

Time passes way way to quickly, and I realised I've not really run a car this year, with general life ,and awaiting the Scottish summer for some speed runs.....Still waiting..🙄 I have thinned the stock down a bit, but I've still got around 20, meaning some haven't been used for a good few years. It's looking like only 3 have (well 2, but) decided to let some significant voltage leak out. This battery, is one that was used in the 5s speed runs of the Dark Impact and the DT03, the latter where the motor and ESC went pop, then this took an age to balance charge since, so not really a shock its dropped, but quite surprised its dropped to almost 1v!! (The other cell, still at 3.8v) This one, was last used racing my RB5, so probably a good 8yrs+ since its last use in anger (its been storage charged since then), but still surprised at one cell sat at 0.5v (again, the other cell still at around 3.8v). This one fits easily in every Tamiya I've got, and still undecided if I should open it up and try and fix it, (could just extend the wire, and solder it to the deans plug?) as although one cell can't be checked , one cell is 3.83v and the overall voltage is 7.66v, says they're pretty much matched bang on. It is many years old though, and a new one is fairly cheap....🤔 Anyway, as winter (in the UK anyway) is drawing ever closer, its maybe time to have a wee peek at your lipos, before tucking them in...

My tamiya models haven't really seen ,what I would class as, alot of modifications. I know most of you here, have been on here long enough to have seen my Kyosho builds (RB5 gearbox/6.5t original Ultima , Schumacher 3 plate slipper, 5.5t original mid etc), and the only tamiyas being the Dark Impact slipper shaft / diff mods and the 5700kv/5s DT03, but the rest of my flock (?) are pretty much stock (bar bearings, steel pinions ,brushless motors and running lipo, mainly to make them go, as well as the old 80's vids suggested!!) I'm of the opinion, that it's yours to enjoy. If you want to paint it an 'out there' colour and fit flashy lights ,then crack on and enjoy it. The only real thing that generates the 'how far can you take it' opinion for me, is on the , Speedrun thread...... Eg, is a Lunchbox still a lunchbox, with a spaceframe chassis, 3d printed spool, machined gears, different wheels/tyres and 3d printed double wishbone front end with oil shocks?? 🤷‍♂️

For a Modelshop, to get a premises (pay business rates, utilities etc) and stock , you're looking at close to £50k to get off the ground, then to compete with online retailers (usually they're pretty much just a warehouse) and the likes of Amazon (with a Tamiya DT03 Racing Fighter on there atm for just over £80!) , is a tall tall order.

RC wise, probably the Novafox she (🙄), picked up in a Tamico offer of the week. Got it Christmas day morning, took it to work with me in the afternoon ,and got it built 💪

Like all small businesses , they're competing with the Internet giants, so just can't have huge amount of capital tied up in stock. I believe it also costs to 'buy in' to be a recognised retail outlet for brands, (heard a rumour is around the £20,000 mark for Tamiya?) As a club, we talk to our LHS and they try and stock parts for our cars, as there's a good chance they won't be on the shelf for long. Speak to the owner, tell them what you're looking at buying, and see what they can do for you, the more everyone buys the more they'll have in stock, I'm thinking Kev Talbot's LHS is going to have stock 🙄🤣 (although, he's moved to his tax haven now..)

The motors I've spare, are a 7.5t, 4.5t and a 2.5t...😳🤣, so it'll need to be stout. Not had much luck with low profile, and their thinner gears...Guessing the servo saver stays..🤦‍♂️

Does it need other stuff? Thought about alloy front shock L linkage and maybe some TD2 parts, to covert to shorty lipo ,across the width (if that's a thing?)

For that price, suddenly the body doesn't look too bad!! 😁 Although, still another £40 for the slipper.. (Can't believe it's take me this long to see this thread..🤦‍♂️)

If the esc is the same as the hobbywing 1060, if the jumper is set to for/rev, neutral is drag brake, and if its anything like the 1060, the drag brake is stronger than the brakes, in for / brake /rev

Got a cheap battery one out of Argos, absolutely useless. So if you're getting one, don't skimp.

They multiply when you're not looking!! 🙈 I've various packs, for various cars. 2 cars still run saddles (could do with doing shorty conversions, but I've got the saddle lipos atm, but new ones aren't easy to come by). My race cars take shortys, but generally get a few new ones at the start of a race season, (the new liHv are 5mm, so had to swap to stepped plugs on the cars...) The 3s are for the bashers, and speed runs, as everything's better with 3s 😁 A few of the 3s, where real cheap off eBay ,when there was that big sell off (less than £5 each if I remember right), so kind of wishing I'd got more than 2.. And a couple of 2s, for the likes of the Lunchbox , Bullhead (now it's got 15t firebolts, was 3s with silvercans), and re re Ultima. The super shorty are for my modified original Ultima build (RB5 gearbox etc, in the build thread somewhere, but didn't pay the photobucket ransom, so..😔) All the stick packs are getting on a bit ,I think the hardcase 3s was my first lipo, and that's probably 12yrs old now!!! 😳. Should probably at least check them all for storage charge this year? All in lipo charge bags, in seal removed ammo boxes, except my race packs, which are in a lipo bag, in a batsafe.

No problems here, but only had 2 of the frewer bodies. The RS200 (on a Schumacher K1 Chassis) - And the RS500 Cosworth , destined for a Boomerang.

Cheers for the heads up! 👍 I've managed to find an exploded view on line, not as good as a manual, but better than nothing!!

Aye, you need to upload to YouTube, and post the YouTube link -

Nice!! You got a vid of it running? 🎵🎶🎵🎶

As above End Point Adjustment. For the steering, usually full steering hits the bump stops, which then stretches the servo saver when it tries to push it further, or if you're running a metal geared servo and a solid servo horn (no saver), it can start to cause issues with high current load, and making the reciever glitchy. So setting the end point of the servo in each direction, you can set it so at max steering, it just touches the bump stops and no more. For the throttle, I find it really handy, when my kids want to drive my cars (or there's now) Imagine if you have an RC car, that will do 100mph, and you give your 3yr old a shot, you'd drop the forward throttle down to 5%, and it would go 5mph on full throttle. When I've done this with their cars, I set them challenges (drive down the garden, and come back up without crashing, and I'll up the speed 10%). Modern RC 2.4ghz controllers have so much adjustment these days, it's mind boggling (ABS brake, kind of launch control, telemetry, and can even alter the % of brakes based on the % of the steering...) This is the instruction manual for my Sanwa Exzes ZZ, at first I thought it was the standard multi language instructions, but nope , that sucker is allllll English, 😳

I'd have a look at the features of modern radios, before you decide on 'stock' Minimum for me, is EPA and multi memory. Might be able to pick up a 2nd hand Futaba T4GRS for £100.

I ran mine for speed runs, its in the speedrun thread. Castle 5700kv / 5s (3s in the chassis, and 2s nailed on the homemade bumper), with some 2.8" FTX Bugsta wheels/tyres on the rear, diff full of superglue etc (gone with an O ring in the new build) Building another atm (say atm, built the chassis ,then life stuff happened, but as the Scottish summer didn't happen anyway, it's not mattered..) Any gearbox drilling etc, other than tamiya hop ups, means you can't enter it in the tamiya speed run thread, well you can, but it will be in a different class. I've got these fitted - https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/xtra-speed-aluminium-rear-knuckle-hub-arm-2-degree-for-tamiya-dt-03-1352733 And a few other goodies - (Alloy arms, hoping the extra weight will help stability)

Superb!! 👏 The wheels (revolutions?) really suit it too.

Bit of a long read, but worth it. https://www.rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

Aye, the drag brake (throttle in neutral), is better than the actual brakes in Forward / Brake / Reverse!!

If its tall geared , running in grass, got parts binding etc ,the motor will pull alot of amps, and get hot, volts from the battery drop, and triggers the half speed.

If you're running Nimh, check the jumper is set to Nimh on the 1060 esc, if its set to lipo, they go half speed when close to lipo cut off (give you a chance to drive it back to you), which is around 6.6 - 6.8v.

Naa, Tbh, it's kind of a given you're going to have to solder, on the faster stuff, as connections are a weak point. I've got motor bullet connections on my Castle ESC, and a deans for the battery, as it going between my DF03 and DT03 (it's a 6s esc, so use it for speed runs), it really does not look neat... My KF2se on the other hand, has its dedicated esc, wires cut to length ,and soldered directly onto the motor.