Wooders28

Indeed!! You'll probably have to find a chassis with the same track, then lengthen that chassis to get the correct wheelbase. There's a few examples on the General Lee page, where the Walmart toy bodies are so much better looking than the lexan - https://generalleerc.com/chassis/

Another, none Tamiya eBay purchase, but, Aristo Craft Kangaroo! Needs a body, and a rear wheel (if anyone has parts they're tripping over? ), but looks fairly complete.

Personally, it depends where you are in the world. The UK seem to favour Deans (more batteries available with Deans), where over the pond seems to be XT60. I've had zero issues with Deans ,even the cheap T plug I got from Hobbyking (£6 for 10 pairs) , I've run them on 5s (2s & 3s in serise) and numerous 3s, with the only issue being sparks on the plug in (I'd go with the XT90 anti spark, if I was running more than 3s regularly). Both Deans and XT60 are rated for 60Amp. I would maybe invest in a terminal solder station, I got mine for under £10 off ebay, and just helps keep the plug steady when soldering.

If you're running a decent modern reciever, chances are it'll be fine on 7.4v, my Sanwa are 6v - 7.4v compatible. Guessing it's for an IC car, if you're planning on having a reciever pack? If electric, you'll need a decent ESC anyway, which should be 6v-7.4v BEC switchable via a programmer , as once you start getting faster/more powerful servos, you need decent BEC Amp rating, otherwise you get 'Brown out ' where the servo sucks all the power away from the receiver, and it cuts out. If its cheap off eBay, nope.... I've tried a few different servos in the past, and one I went for was this 'Alturn Race Servo ' for my Novafox, with an official spec rating of 0.09s -60° @6v Decided to do a vid, to show its lightning speed, against my KF2se's ,slightly slower (going off the spec...) 0.10s - 60° @6v , Futaba BLS 551 Brushless servo....🤔 Imo, you get what you pay for, if you're expecting a speed of light servo, that'll lift your house, for a £1 off ebay/Amazon/aliexpress / temu, then you might be in for a bit of disappointment. My goto budget servo now is the CoreRC 9016MG, and for everything else, Savox 1257tg/ 1258tg ,with an Altrun still in a Novafox, (if you've ever built a Novafox, you'll understand why its still in there 😳, plus it does work, so..)., and the Futaba 551 in an On Road, Schumacher Fusion (which with it being a low profile servo, probably wasn't for Off Road anyway)

For grass and beach running, unless you've got a powerful motor, it may run slower, with the extra drag. Yeah but no but... 32dp = 0.7938 mod , so although not strictly correct, a 32dp works fine (what I run in mine). A 16t kind of fits, but probably wouldn't run it with a high powered motor- A 20t does work with high powered motors (this ran 5700kv / 5s ), but you need to leave a motor bolt out, so probably advisable to check it's still tight periodically... This is a kind of rough guide. KV of a sensorless is kind of set in stone, but the kv of a sensored (usually measure in Turns) isn't, as you can add timing via the esc (think Vtec ) and it'll rev higher (a 13.5t will run around 5000kv, with a bucket of timing)

You know those Miata (MX5's as we call them), engine and gearboxes, just nicely sit in the MGB chassis...🙊 Best of both!

I've heard a few rumours, one that Kyosho never actually owned their own moulds, where tamiya did (being a major injection model, manufacturer), and after 30yrs, they'd all been destroyed by the company contracted to do it (gone out of business/taken over etc), another that they where destroyed in a fire. Either way, it's meant they're better than the other offerings.... I've the Ultima, and running a 10.5t (around 4500kv), and although if I set the punch to max, and whack full beans, the front end gets a little light (with the slipper backed off as much as a dare), it's perfectly drivable.

This thread is from July, but... Yeah, some of the specs out there are a bit optimistic, but the minimum spec I look for in a servo these days, is metal gears, as I then don't need to use the sloppy tamiya servo saver, being from the bygone weak plastic geared servo era. This was a vid I did, as the Novafox servo I fitted (alturn race servo) has similar, if not slightly better specs, than the brushless futaba servo in the Schumacher KF2...🤔

Think it's pretty much been covered, but.. To put into 1:1 car language, Mah is the size of the fuel tank, (this goes for any battery chemistry), a 3000mah battery = 3Ahr , meaning a motor pulling 3amps, would run for an hour. (An engine 'pulling' 1ltr of petrol a minute, would last an hour, with a 60ltr fuel tank , or 30 mins, with an engine pulling 2ltrs a min etc). The 'C' rating ('C'apacity rating), is the diameter of the fuel line to the engine. (in relation to the fuel tank size , ie, a 3000mah /100C battery, can deliver 3amp x 100 = 300 amp discharge) if there's only one 'C' rating ,that's considered its 'Burst' rating , which means it can only supply that 300amp for around 10 seconds, the 'Continuous' is usually half the burst, so that would be 50C, or 150amps on that example. When charging, 1C is considered the norm/safe (although, I've some that the manufacturers say are safe upto 5C...😳), so going off above, a 3000mah should be charged at 3 Amp , (4400mah = 4.4 amps etc). In theory, a fully flat 3000mah, will take an hour to charge at 3 amps, but as you don't let a lipo drop below 3v per cell (6v on a 2s, 9v on a 3s etc) then it's never an hour, normally around half that. ******** One thing, DO NOT buy off eBay / Amazon etc!! There's been alot of rubbish on there over the years, (even an emergency recall of a charger recently), so buy from a reputable model shop, and stick to branded, this incudes the fire /explosion proof charge bag, as its probably a bit late, when you find out the bag you got off eBay for £1, doesn't have the fire containing properties you hoped....😬 Once you've cut your teeth, and know what's normal, what doesn't sound/ look / feel right , then do what you like...🙄🤣. This site, is probably the best I've seen for lipo advice, probably more information than you'll ever need, but 🙄 https://www.rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/

Hahaha, love this 😁 (Bit random, but), had a discussion with the guys at the club ,if we call them Kyosho 'Re Re' or the 'Legendary Serise', i went with the latter, as I don't think there's actually many parts on the cars, that are Re release, they're all new design, just made to look old! So modern car, with old school cool looks, you'll be getting more of the serise (currently pondering over the Optima Pro 🙄)

Anytime I've tapped a hole in a tamiya (DF03 mostly), I just fired a taper , then a bottom in my elec drill, with the torque set low...

I'm not brand loyal, I love my Tamiya, in some aspects, because of nostalgia, but mostly because it scaled model fun. For race cars I drive Schumacher, as they're a UK brand, meaning spares are usually quick and easy to obtain, and do have a Yokomo YZ2-T i won in a raffle.I don't race tamiyas, as they're not a racecar (which upsets some...), which doesn't mean I have anything against them, I'd love an F1 car, but can't imagine it would be a fun choice, just to go the shops. I've put a Chevy engine into a Pontiac, which upsets alot of people, even this side of the pond, but quite like the fact Chevy has designed engines /gearboxes to be fairly interchangeable over the years, making hotrodding easier (?). The only brand I wouldn't have, be it food/drink ,footwear etc, is Traxxas, their bully tactics, that's sent many companies to the wall, that just rubs me up the wrong way, so even if I won one, I wouldn't have it...

Purchased titled car on eBay a few days ago, but can't seem to find much ,with regards to a manual ,do they exist? Just plan on going through it, fit/replace bearings etc, but be handy to have a but of a manual. Cheers.

Maybe the 235mm? In the late 80's /early 90's, fitting saloon bodies on, to make Rallycross cars was a thing. I used to run a Parma 4x4 Cosworth body on my Optima Mid. Frewer where another company that made bodies to fit 1/10 Off-Road buggies, Boomerang /Hotshot etc:- L&L models in Wales sell them (well, looks like only the 6R4 is in stock atmm🤦‍♂️) https://landlmodels.co.uk/collections/frewer-racing-235mm This is their Frewer RS200 on my Schumacher K1. Their RS500 body, perched onto of a Boomerang, give you the idea of size (on the Project list..)

You know when you have a flick through and old mag, and see an advert that brings back a bit of nostalgia..... Then you have a look on eBay, just for a gander..... Anyway I've done a thing 🙄 Looks fairly sound, but for some reason no prop shaft or front gears/driveshafts, so its a 2wd beast...🤷‍♂️

There's a DT03 on @stew_mac FB speed run page at 92Mph, so I need to pull my finger out!! 😳 https://www.facebook.com/groups/602958430106827/permalink/2028775884191734/ Aye, you've lost your runway playground!! 🤦‍♂️ I used Google earth, for a scout about the area, and found a 3 lane wide road, in an industrial estate, which is empty on a Sunday AM, on my way home off a nightshift 🙄 Yeah, Needed to swap the front bearings, and that's about it (but gone with slightly wider rear aluminium hexes, just to try and add some stability tbh) The DT03 has 1150 bearings (5 x 11 x 4 to the rest of us, shaft dia x wheel hub dia x bearing width), The Kyosho wheel uses 4 x 8 x 3 Used 5 x 8 x 2.5 bearings (850 in Tamiya money) , although they're 0.5mm too thin, they seem to be fine 🤷‍♂️.

Pretty sure I've got an old, Radio Race Car mag, from the mid-late 80's, that gives tips on how to match and do all that kind of stuff, I'll see if I can dig it out...🤔

You'd be better speaking to the guys at your club. Pretty sure @neowhizz advised the M08r ? As by the time you get all the upgrades, you're cheaper anyway. But, aye, speak to your club, sometimes they do a club group buys, if there's enough interest, and get a nice discount for buying 10+ kits etc.

I skipped the Nimh racing days, but a thing in Nicads, was buying a load of single cells, charging each cell, and getting discharge data, to 'match' the cells in a pack, which would give you a significant edge (allowed for a lower turn motor etc). Manufacturers started selling 'matched' packs, to capitalise on this. This when a 1800mah was a large capacity! 🙄 With modern Lipos (well, liHv), its just not a thing anymore.

There's the old, screw it together mod? https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&sid=3142

That's it, everyone's been there, so everyone will help out!!

You're making me look at the G2's now....🙄🫣

There was a post a while back (okay, a good few years back, but I can't find it now....), about someone who was thinking of racing, but worried they weren't a good enough driver, they'd get laughed at etc and I posted this vid, of a young Daniel Pole, who went along, and pretty much crashed on every corner and even, rode the wall along the straight.. Anyway, Daniel has been a member of our club now for years, races regularly, even on the National Circuit, and has got slightly better over that time, becoming the youngest top license holder in the BRCA history books (F1) , and keeps getting better, slightly....😳 No one starts racing at the top level, every single person has to start somewhere, so if you're thinking of racing, find your local club, and go along.👍

Cool!! You know we've a few 'club cars' that you can book online (basically, just to give us chance to dig them out and charge them!) , that you can use, to have a shot around the track. I certainly wouldn't go buying one, before speaking to the other guys at the club, especially at the end of the outdoor season, as all the sponsored guys look to be getting new cars, and club members usually get first dibs on their old ones. There's meetings all year round on a Wednesday night, but as the night draw in, it's just in the club house bar, talking RC , and going through anything people want to know, a night of learning to programme an ESC, setting up suspension etc (pretty much anything you want to tbh). Everyone loves a chat, (me more so tbh, I'll follow you to you're car still blethering...🙄🤣), so don't be afraid to ask questions!!

RC economy, absolutely! Buying a new car once a year, then keeping it nice a pretty on a shelf, Vs Buying a new car once a year, launching it of a ramp, breaking it, buying parts ,launching off a ramp, breaking it, buying parts...aye!!! , if everyone did that, modelshop owners would all be driving ferrari's 🤣 Yep, same as whistlindiesel does with 'real' cars. Kev won't pay for alot of his stuff, but if it encourages people to go out and use them, why not!! I wouldn't know where to find Traxxas parts tbh! Not a brand I've ever had, or know anyone with one... Can see that being an issue, but around here the police etc seem cool, especially if you've a BRCA licence, as it gives you £10 million 3rd party insurance,.so we're probably more insured, than the BMXers using their track! 🤷‍♂️