Wooders28

I'm in the minority, but the breaking of parts, then more importantly, the replacing of said broken parts from a local modelshop, can only only be a good thing for the economics of the hobby?

@Phil_H aka Tomley RC, is one of the only Youtube channels i regularly follow, mainly as i feel like I've grown up with the channel, with him starting it, with doing the speed runs with us, on this forum. One of his newest vids, actually has an old speed run vid and screen shot of the thread-

Yes, best value for money brushless esc, the new G2 especially, although I've not tried it yet, (and you posted this in July, so probably purchased everything anyway by now...) (**just noticed there's 4 pages, and only read page number 1...🤦‍♂️, anyway ...**) If you're running nimh, run sensored motors. Sensorless kind of guesstimate the rotation when setting off, and if there's not enough grunt, they get a bit confused and stutter, this is known as 'cogging'. Sensored motors have a sensor at the back of the motor, which talk to the esc, and tell it the direction etc, so zero cogging, just nice smooth action (coupled with the G2 10bl120, there's other cool stuff you can do, when you want a bit more or less ooph.) A 10.5t is usually a nice balance, but a cheap 8.5t will probably be about the same, as a good quality 10.5t. Brushless are more efficient than brushed, so more torque and rpm for the same energy, be it lipo or nimh/nicad. With a 10bl120 G2 and sensored motor, no (well, can't think why you would) The BEC is 4A and switchable between 6v and 7.4v (for modern high voltage servos), so shouldn't be any brown out issues, and the esc also allows you to set the lipo cut off voltage, or completely disable ,for nicad/nimh use too. The esc can be programmed off the button on the switch, (it's more of a faff, than the led programmer, but if you're not altering it alot, it doesn't matter too much). The LED programmers are about a tenner, and literally takes a minute (this is the old first gen one though), one handed whilst filming with my other.. As above, there's only 2 (3, ish) a steel 17t or 19t - 08mod (a 20t ,32dp kind of fit.), so I'd buy them both, and see hiw it goes. Depends on terrain (on road, carpet dirt tracks, astro ,grass ) and gradients.

Urm, that's what is common in vapes, aye. I don't vape ,so it's only what I've seen charging in the canteen in work. Seen a few try it on Facebook....(yeah, that place..🫣), and surprisingly, didn't perform too well.

Exactly. So something designed for an EV, with (presumably?) Safety being the main objective, but increasing 'range', this isn't quite pur goal, we're looking for light weight and power (although, light weight would increase range too, along with more efficient motor design, and aerodynamics), where safety is further down the list. One of the reasons i think we (RCers) don't us the vape type batteries etc, there's just not enough oomph.

This is where Facebook kind of worked in my favour. The Goolrc combos seem to run in batches, batch of bad motors, batch of bad escs, (who'd have thought, something that cheap, had low/no quality control!?!?) all of which seem to be well publicised by grumpy RCrs on Facebook. But, every now and then, there's the sweet spot, where the motor and esc work, when there's a lull of complaints across the RC pages, then I buy one, and so far, they've been great! (Very underpowered compared to a Hobbywing, but for £40 🤷‍♂️). Saying that, I want to try the new 10bl120 G2 , with boost & Turbo, that could be a game changer for the price.. Anything older than maybe 5yrs+ old, and you start to struggle at local modelshops, as stock gets sold off cheaper, once demand starts to tail off, when a new model is released, as they don't want money tied up, sat on a shelf. Although Schumacher have a pretty good spares back up for older cars, I'm still getting spares for my K1, and that's over 10yrs old now. There isn't much call for aftermarket on race cars, as the stock parts are better than most aftermarket parts anyway. As the end of the outdoor is coming to an end in the UK (last BRCA National was at the weekend, and what an A final 4wd that was! 👌🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿) , there'll probably be a few cars coming up for sale, that'll have a bit of slop, and probably need a rebuild with full bearings, but still good value. I bought a new DT03, and upgraded the front bulkhead, arms, added turnbuckles, shocks, (shock towers on the list..), servo holder, motor, esc, servo horn, hubs, wheels /tyres plus outdrives plus driveshafts, and wondering if buying a cheap worn out roller would have been better option! 🫣🤣🤣

Have set the steering end points? The escs do have a servo limit (they're just a motor after all), BEC and in amps, and the tble02s is only something like 1.5amps.

Or Amazon. The BRCA rule (British Radio Car Association), is on the lines of, can only be purchased from a recognised UK outlet..

What's the discharge rates like? The ones in EV's are that great as understand it? (Certainly not the 100C we get in RC, probably as the risk/reward isn't that great?)

This ⬆️ Modelsport is my goto, but there's plenty of others to choose from. Personally, I'd kind of future proof. 12v & 240v input (charge in the house, or out and about, off the family car battery), multi chemistry charging (charge all currently available batteries), full feature display to see everything that's going on (More info you'll need, but..). You can get single, dual , quad chargers , (to charge upto 4 batteries at once), that aren't actually that much more...🤔 https://www.modelsport.co.uk/electric/chargers/12v-mains/multiple/fully-featured/full-feature-display?&sort=PriceLow

Brilliant!! I've been meaning to get my M05 running, and head over...🤦‍♂️ @neowhizz and the guys are a cracking bunch, they'll look after you (maybe not your wallet though...🤣) Bit at the end of the season, but we've an Off - Road at Glasgow , at Calderglen Country Park (behind the tennis courts at the sports club)

Just bought pre-made masks off ebay. But ,as you always paint dark colours first, the dark are the negative (peel the middle out, and use the outside), and have bled a bit more than the light colours. I think I rushed tbh, its a bit like doing a speech, if you think you're going slow, slow down a bit. The first few coats, should be the lightest of lightest coats, so it dries quick, doesn't get a chance to run/bleed, and forms it's own paint seal around the edge. I've a few more bodies to paint, (and had good news off Kamtec, so hopefully get a few more project bodies too! ), which equals more practice 😁

Kind of ironic , as all the promotional vids from Tamiya bitd, where the cars getting 'bashed' at the beach ,launching themselves off sand dunes (probably thrown off...🤔) 🤣🤣

Cheers man! (Any closer with the pics, and you can see the paint bleeds, but happy with it) Probably alot better than the DT chassis or other Tamiyas mentioned tbh! If the question was, which buggy to goto the park or the beach just to bash ('bash' conjures up imagines of just 'bashing' into into a wall a full speed, where I class it as when it's just to run, because its fun, and not laptimes), then the DT03 is the choice, throw a brushless set up in it, and a 3s lipo, and have fun.

You've include the decision making word there 'race'.... My daughter learnt with a Bullhead, till around 5yrs, then she got my old Schumacher KF2se, when I got the new Laydown, to race. Got her a wheel (her small hands struggled with my sticks), with EPA, threw in a 10bl120, 13.5t motor, turned it down to 50%, and off she went. By the end of her 3rd race, I'd upped it to 100%, and the 2nd meeting I threw in a 10.5t , and dropped the end point again. If you get a newish 2nd hand Schumacher or an Associated, (depending on what cars are raced at your club) they can bash (parts are readily available, and they're fairly strong cars anyway), and also hit the track with some confidence (and spare parts availability, usually someone has a part you need, if that's the common car raced). I did ask her to design a paint scheme, and got her a new body shell, just so make it her car.

I'm admin on a few RC pages, and there's quite a bit of, just wrong info ,that gets posted (and removed, if one of us see it...) Recently , both pinion related right enough... On a DF03 page, someone saying to use 48dp pinions , as that's what Modelsport have in their options, which is wrong, the DF03 is 05 mod, and 48dp (05mod =50.8dp) will just chew the spur (Do I message Modelsport ,as it is what they have listed? 🤔) On a DT03 page, saying they use 06mod , when they actually use 08mod (or 32dp at a push, that gets a reaction usually, as although 32dp isn't correct, it works...💣) Shouldn't need to, but you need a bit of a thick skin to survive (?) on Facebook these days. It just used to be pictures of people dinners, which was fine, but now (as with the recent English riots ), tensions can get out of hand very quickly, with just false information about pinions being the least of the worries!! You need a sprinkling of distrust (?) , ie, if someone tells you it's raining out, don't just put your wellies and raincoat on, check the window and the weather forecast (although, if you're in Scotland, it's usually a given anyway 🙄🤣)

Oh yes, By bad, you mean wrong? Or just, buy a nice cheap charger off ebay, then post a link for an fake imax b6 for a tenner? Struggle not to comment, sometimes write something then delete instead of posting, can't bothered with another ban....

Welcome home! 🙄🤣 Got a wee DT03 speedrun build in the wings, once the Scottish weather plays ball 🤦‍♂️

New run for @Phil_H ? Modified gearbox though?...🙄🤣

This is true though....🙄💣 All depends on the quality of the components used, which effects the strength of the magnets etc. If you know the RPM (kv) and you know the watts, you can work out the torque? https://www.magtrol.com/motor-power-calculator/

This is where using 'KV' falls down. There's loads of motors out there (cheap brushless sensorless usually) that claim big kv numbers, but when asked to do any actual work, pretty much stall. You generally, get what you pay for...

Some manufacturers give some data on the side of the box, this was a 4.5t motor box I got. I use this as a rough guide (as above, you can add timing on a sensored motor, and also double its KV) From when stock motor racing was a thing (was meant to keep it easy and cheap, but to win, you bought a dozen + motors, did all the reverse break in etc, picked the fastest one, but some used to pull the armature out, and swap it for a lower turn or cheat as its known, which meant organisers had to check each car etc etc. Turned into a hassle and expensive, so now just race whatever)

Motors are rated in 'Turns' . The thicker the wire ,the more electricity can flow, the more powerful the motor is. The thicker the wire, the less 'Turns' of wire can be wound in the space given, so less Turns = more current = faster motor. But something I don't think the Lego motors won't have (I'm guessing, not touched a Lego motor for nearly 40yrs...😬), is timing? You'll notice on the data @alvinlwh nicely collected, there are motors with the same 'Turns' , but different RPM ratings and loads These motors (aswell as different brushes and maybe bearings instead of bushes), have different timing. On modified motors, you can alter the timing yourself, which was great back in the old Nicad days, as you could adjusting the timing ,so you got speed, but also enough battery to last the race (with modern Lipo / liHv, that's just not a consideration these days). With the Tamiya sealed can timed motors (torque tuned etc), they are directional, they go faster one way, than the other, so no use for the likes of the 'Clod Buster ' which requires 2 motors, going different rotations. With brushless, the cheap sensorless use 'KV' which is RPM per volt, but really just gives you an idea , as some cheap ones just fall off a cliff, when you ask them to do any work. Sensored brushless are measured in Turns, but as there's no end bell to turn, they alter the timing electronically via the esc, with a 'sensor' knowing the motor position in degrees. These motors will give different current ratings and rpm (kv) depending on the timing (Boost) and the full throttle timing (Turbo). This vid of a 13.5t motor on the dyno, testing various timing ,gives you an idea. Both 2s lipo and 6s Nimh are 8.4v fully charged (liHv CAN goto 4.35v per cell, so 8.7v on 2s) , so not sure why 7.2v and 7.4v are used tbh (yeah I know it's 'nominal' voltage, but people rarely use a nominally charged battery..🤷‍♂️)

Seriously, unless fitting them in luggage is going to be the decider, I would get all of them....🤷‍♂️ If fitting them in luggage isn't an issue, then probably more than one of each, get on a credit card, then sell some. You could still get one or two for free yourself, and still sell them cheaper than the shops, I'm thinking you'd have no issues selling them (ie, sell ,X2 NIB Manta Ray for £105 each, you'd get a Wild One for free, and me and someone else, still got a Manta Ray...🙄) , so pay the credit card off 'IN FULL' (so no interest) everyone is a winner in that case!

I've the Yokomo YZ2-T, but if I was buying one , I'd go for the Schumacher Storm.....😬 British company, so usually no spares issues, as its Schumacher, will handle great and top quality, but unfortunately, not pocket change..🙄 https://www.racing-cars.com/new-products-1/storm-st2-kit-k200