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Everything posted by Wooders28
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My trouble (?), is I can't drive a wheel, almost 40yrs of driving sticks, and a wheel is so wrong, I have to think about every action and it makes it really unenjoyable to drive, so radios like that of yours, just pass me by. I've seen people with PlayStation type controller ones , (seemingly big in the drone world?), but even though it was sticks, it was tiny and so I didn't like it. I'm not sure if you shave time around a track ,because the reaction time is better? the more features mean you can set the car up for you better? or the fact the controller feels right in your hands, and you just enjoy it more? The last point is subjective, and only you can decide if you like the 'feel' of a radio or not. My daughter is running the CR3P atm, she seems to like it, but I'll probably get her an MT5 at some point, make it known I'm looking for one at the club, and a decent 2nd hand one should turn up.
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Weirdly, they don't stay fast, as you get used to it, it's just....normal. (probably the same as getting a faster 1:1 car, few weeks in, it's not as fast as it first was). You notice though, when you get the old controller in your mits. This is where being in a club shines. The sponsored guy who's just switched from futaba to sanwa, or the ,money no object guy, who quite liked the look, but ran it once and got something else, 2nd hand sales, which probably fall in the sub £200 category...
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I didn't think I needed it either, until I got one that had it. Setting the end points for the steering is a must on modern buggies, not sure if they used to be designed for the throw of an old acoms/futaba servo , but now it's presumed you have the ability to alter it? Swapping back to my old radio is an eye opener too, the delay takes you by surprise again, as your heart skips a beat, when it doesn't respond. I've a decent radio, and to get another car to run, it's £30 for a reciever (or could be £20, if the cheap ones work ok)
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Horses for courses. If the rx are cheaper than a full cheap system, then it's debatable. If you've 10 cars, and spend £30 on a cheap system, but the rx are £20 for a multi model, then it can add up. Then the cheap system won't have epa etc for that money.
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Depends how many cars you have. I've you've only 1 or 2, then probably not. If you've 20+, then yes. I've an rx in pretty much all mine, so just turn on the tx, scroll down to 'X' car, throw a lipo in the car and away I go, all the settings are saved, the steering end points etc etc, and that's that.
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I think the SMD has a slightly less range, but it's still further than my old eyes, so not that much of an issue.... I still run the 472 antenna telemetry RX in in my race car, mainly as my brain states an antenna is better...🙄
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Running a couple of Sanwa, SMD and Ruddog antennaless recievers the latter I got for £30. There's some on Aliexpress that are £20 , but not taken a punt yet..
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Features and reaction speed mainly. Although, quality feel has some bearing on choice, but you'd need to try someone else's, before a large outlay. When I bought my Sanwa, I had to kind of learn to drive again, as I kept turning in too early, as it just reacted so quick compared to my Corerc. This is the manual for my Sanwa, and I first thought it was multiple languages, but no, it's all in English, with chapters....😬 It's a telemetry model, so the receiver can send information back to the handset, but I've never set it up, as I have trouble finding time to blink during a race, never mind start looking down at data!!! Other features I'm going to try and find time to set up, like the % brake strength per % steering, so I should just be able to hit full brakes, and turn into a corner, and the brakes back off accordingly to stop it spinning out.
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I asked where he got the gears, and said he'd, designed and printed the spur. Could have quite easily had said, it was a stock spur, or one of the aftermarket ones available (guessing ,printing a few off, and selling them on ebay, would make it legal? 🤷♂️) Probably didn't make that much of a difference anyway? (Wouldn't have thought 3d printed, would be as strong as stock?🤔) You could be right! 😬 I remember there being a CW01 speed run challenge on one of the YouTube pages, and think the trick chassis he used, was used on that? (It's defo an age thing, this old memory game..) If the chassis is commonly available, then it's legal anyway? (Just not cheap 😳) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133947924335?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Qto2oMJKTOa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=Y6lJ1tpQT1q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I know it's a seemingly thankless task, but the efforts to keep the thread going have been greatly appreciated, even if I've not contributed as much as I'd like.
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Not going to happen in the near future. The current top speed is 59mph, but has the trick £100 chassis, £50 tyres, plus 3d printed spur gear....(arguably illegal 🙊, but realistically, wouldn't make a massive difference), wheelie bar etc, so much more cash than I'm prepared to spend, atm....
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Complete RTR, (well, wouldn't be able to run them all at the same time, multi memory of modern transmitters...) :- Laydown, KF2se (daughter runs that now, so does that count?) ,YZ2-T, Boomerang, Lunchbox, Novafox, Neo Fighter, Ultima, Re re Ultima, Optima mid custom, DF03 , Bullhead, Fusion* (* - should run, but probably won't, without spending ages, trying to start it, changing plugs etc etc) Shelfers..... How long from not using one, does it then class as a 'shelfer'? , Also, the Fusion is a nitro, and 'Ran when parked'.....😳 WIP :- Technically, the Mid is WIP, as I want to get a carbon chassis and top deck made, to accept a modern shorty (getting lipo saddles is a bit difficult these days, especially needing LCG ones...) L1 - got all the elecs for it to race in 4wd, just need to get a new body, as it was a known car in the championship, so it'll confuse some, and also not be mine (if that makes sense).. M05 - pretty much a bare chassis, but has upgrades, just needs elecs throwing in (need to buy a motor right enough, all my stock is brushless now, and this class only run torque tuned or 21t Corerc), oh yeah , a body and wheels & tyres would probably help too, so it's nearly there...🫣 Lunchbox - This was going to be a speedrun car, and started collected parts to do the 4 bar rear etc, but with complete trick chassis now available, and even 3d printed gearbox internals getting run (🤔🤐) , it's going to take more money and importantly more time to get up the board, so..... Bullhead - Another one thats still a runner, but wip too. Bought a new body, and also a cheap toy with a rumbling/flashing V8, that's going to get transplanted, with the V8 triggered off the 3rd channel. 'Should' be able to build the body, and just drop it on, connect the adapter into the 3rd channel, and that's that...? DT03 Speedrun car, actually needs building (wip? really....?), got pretty much all the parts I think I need, (bar turnbuckles, mainly so I can fit large bore shocks, to help keep it stable at speed). Fusion - it's a 'Cannonball' Firebird rep, and still needs the Cannonball decal for the doors.... Static model unbuilt - I've a few 1:18 Transams, most are shelfers, (well, ones a 'hanger'..), but one is in bits, as I was trying to make a model of my full size, engine swapped, project TransAm, so guess its fairly accurate, as thats not finished either!!
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New Old Stock Decals - loss of adhesion?
Wooders28 replied to Kpowell911's topic in General discussions
Spoke with @neowhizz about doing some vinyl wraps and some stickers for my 1:1 the other day, and seemingly the adhesive on that stuff only lasts 5yrs, before it goes off. Not sure if decals are the same. -
Goodbye 2023 - What did you learn this year?
Wooders28 replied to Pylon80's topic in General discussions
Kerbs aren't your friend, but Google earth is!! Have a look at industrial estates, that are likely to be deserted on a Sunday (especially early morning) -
I use these. Almost 30k rpm, and never had an issue. This is the servo plug version (well, battery box 2 pin plug) , but they do one, that plugs into the small esc plug. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/centro-aluminium-cooling-fan-28000-rpm-5v-8v-30x30mm-jst-receiver-plug-442292
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Think these were 10AWG....🤔 Used them on the heater blower, on my 1:1 project. I got 5pr and managed to get it done, and make a lead for my RC charger (uses the xt60 as a 12v input).
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Most of mine are deans, as that's what is more common on stick lipos in the UK. (Although my race cars are 4mm bullets, except the ones running modern liHv ,they're 5mm,.so had to go with stepped plugs...🤦♂️) I did try the XT60, but not sure if they where just amazon 'quality' but ...
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Oh no! Hope everyone's well by Christmas! Kind of good news, someone has said they'd cover my Sunday nightshift ,so I get to spend Christmas eve with my wife and kids, and not be a burst ball ,having to stay up on Christmas day, but, it's costing me 48hrs pay 😳 (could have been a couple of nice kits, strange how priorities change... ) Get a bit of Christmas shopping done on my way home from work on Sunday morning (shops are opening at 6! 😁), and that should be me! Merry Christmas!! 🎄
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I think @Pintopower is based in the states (California). Some nice parts developed though.
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This 👍 I've a few irons, and the 60w solder station I got out of Maplins many moons ago, is still better than a more recent 100w Draper!! My soldering has been on a classic car recently, and the lead free on old wiring just wouldn't take. I bought some cheap 60/40 off ebay (60% lead 40% tin), and it would barely stick to the iron, never mind the wire!! Bought some ,Weller 60/40 and its a dream to solder with. Decent soldering iron, decent solder and clean connections make your life sooo much easier.
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What's your current favorite car category?
Wooders28 replied to Sogogi's topic in General discussions
1/10 electric off road buggy !! I've tried a drift car , F1, ,bought M05 a while back but not got around to running it..,Do have a Schumacher Fusion 3sp Nitro on road, but it constantly needs setting to get it to run right... -
If your racing in a one make serise, there'll be plenty of spares kicking about, in other seasoned racers pit boxes. Everyone knows what it's like starting out, so likely to lend/sell/give you the parts needed to get back on the track. Maybe take spare arms and hubs though.
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Oh good, more charge leads I'll need to buy....🤦♂️ Think it's a Watt limit on hand luggage now? Still took my 10,000mah lithium power bank, in a velcro lipo charge bag though, when I went away in the holidays.. Had to google that, 81,000 litium batteries!! 😳, a bit more relaxed about my 30ish now..
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Consumer electronics have everything built in, and the battery doesn't get changed. As far as I'm aware, the USB charger just provides a 5V to a device, and so requires the device to have all the safety features? The world of health & safety is a strict one, but a high percentage of legislation is brought in after an event, not before. With lipos getting used in RC for getting on 25yrs, the health & safety surrounding them, would be stricter, if the current guidelines weren't good enough? (Saying that, I've around 30 lipos in charge bags, stored in ammo boxes ,in steel cabinets in my garage, but also 3 butane gas bottles, a Nitrous bottle, argon/co2 welding bottles and a couple of Jerry cans of petrol for good measure, thinking if one of mine decided to fry itself, it would probably be visable from space, and make the evening news....) Charging is the worry point with lipos, and there's fairly decent fire protection these days, as a precaution , ('Bat safe' boxes etc). I've raced for years, with hundreds of lipos getting charged during a race weekend, an I've yet to see any issue (the argument, we know what we're doing?, or they're not as bad as people think?)
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Brilliant!!
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This protected against short circuit , which is a likely scenario in that environment. The low voltage is taken care of by the esc, pretty much all the escs have that feature now, even the newer tamiya have given in with their escs! Race escs you can turn that feature off, as most racers would rather risk having a duff battery, than it cut out on the last lap. Tbh, a lipo doesn't burst into flames if you drop it below 3v, the 2 of mine that have dipped , just take forever to balance charge (like, over 1.5hrs....) , with that one cell imbalanced after a run (so they're probably going to get zero volted sooner rather than later, but one is a lcg saddle, and you struggle to get those now...) Guessing you can force an overcharge, charging a 2s at 6s Nimh setting, and not plug in the balance charge plug etc, but at our level, is that likely? *** Just check the specs on my LRP Pulsar charger, and it charges Nimh using Delta Peak, so not sure if it would cut out anyway, with the wrong chemistry? Thinking one of my grumpy 2s batteries, might be getting the opposite of zero volted....🤔