Wooders28

Brilliant!!

This protected against short circuit , which is a likely scenario in that environment. The low voltage is taken care of by the esc, pretty much all the escs have that feature now, even the newer tamiya have given in with their escs! Race escs you can turn that feature off, as most racers would rather risk having a duff battery, than it cut out on the last lap. Tbh, a lipo doesn't burst into flames if you drop it below 3v, the 2 of mine that have dipped , just take forever to balance charge (like, over 1.5hrs....) , with that one cell imbalanced after a run (so they're probably going to get zero volted sooner rather than later, but one is a lcg saddle, and you struggle to get those now...) Guessing you can force an overcharge, charging a 2s at 6s Nimh setting, and not plug in the balance charge plug etc, but at our level, is that likely? *** Just check the specs on my LRP Pulsar charger, and it charges Nimh using Delta Peak, so not sure if it would cut out anyway, with the wrong chemistry? Thinking one of my grumpy 2s batteries, might be getting the opposite of zero volted....🤔

Buying a Tamiya Kit , then telling buyers you need $70 of radio, servo etc, to do its basic job? That's part of the hobby/sport.

I reversed plugged in a shorty, rushing late for a final, and shorted it out. It went down to one cell, so I cracked it open, trying to find a way to discharge safely. You can just see the safety circuit built in. I managed to find a contact, to bypass, and get a clip on, to discharge and dispose of.

The unregulated lipos , are usually what you find cheap on Amazon/eBay etc. There is a list of lipos that's been approved for racing, and what the decent model shops sell, these have been quality tested to meet a standard. In the UK, the governing body, the BRCA state that anything to do with lipos, should be , purchased from a reputable outlet to the UK industry. If I'm asked to recommend lipos, the main advice, is to shop at a main, well known model / hobby shop, and don't skimp on the charger! I've been using Lipos for 10+ years, and still the only battery issues I've had (explosions) have been with NiCad and Nimh cells, whether it's because we where more blasé with the old tech, and charge them until it was like holding a hot baked potato, but with lipo, everything is monitored to the max.

Dunno what's happened tbh, maybe uploading a vid to your YouTube channel everyday, takes its toll. The forum still gets a mention though-

Clod 880esc 15t firebolts (CoreRC 15t ) 2s lipo 😁👍

You can use an image hosting site, where you upload your pictures to the site, then copy the link to the picture, paste on here, and it appears on this forum. (Years ago, alot of us used 'photobucket', but then they decided to go from free, to charging alot of money, holding our uploaded pictures to ransom. This is why there's a few threads, with broken links, as we wouldn't pay the ransom. Really need to go through, and redo pics in some of my build threads....) I now use 'Flikr' - https://www.flickr.com/, But there's a few kicking about. As above, if you're a subscriber (another on my, to do list, once i find how to join...😬), you get a photo download allocation.

Unfortunately, yes He's not daft though, watched the interview with him, and his team, on what is chosen for content, car colours for maximum YouTube exposure etc (seemingly Red gets more hits)

The irony being @Phil_H started his channel, with his little mini city, doing the speedruns on this forum..😬 (But doesn't look like he's been on here, for over a year...☹️)

The mid was more race oriented, so it depended on the motor/ esc and battery your wallet could afford. This is my mates mid, he raced bitd, The Nosram esc was around £70 (£230 today), the Reedy 'Red Dot' (17x2) modified motor £40 ( £130) and the battery £40 (£130). This car I would estimate to be around the 30+mph mark , he did have a 'Pink Dot' (15x2) , that was a fair bit quicker, but it was hit or a miss ,if the battery dumped before the race was over, so although you could have been closer to 40mph, it's not much use ,if you DNF. Some of the single digit drag motors back then where hitting the 60,000rpm mark, which even by todays standards, weren't slow...

That's an American thing I think.. I ran the Schumacher truck venoms on FTX Mauler wheels -

Super expensive, and paying the 'Tamiya Tax' for what I can tell, on a £20 Speed Passion motor (well was, don't think you can get SP now). Anyone correct me on that? (Can only find their 4.5t for sale now, not bad for the cash...) https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/407412?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiApuCrBhAuEiwA8VJ6JpR_IbjOMocdMAvQoO2wWBYN41_dVb_Exi1TTI79Fdb9Y9n2_7DBjhoCNy8QAvD_BwE

I think Kev, although usually inevitable, doesn't smash them on purpose purpose (except hitting the block flat out....), where whistlindiesel just gets a lovely truck, smashes it into posts, and then crushes it with a Caterpillar...😡. However, I'm adding to the problem, by watching it, (similar to the short video things, where they state, if you save $1 a day for a year, you'd have $3000000 by the end, complete nonsense, but the modern world will tell them, so gets millions of comments and views = cash 🤷‍♂️) . The most watched vid on my YouTube channel, is my Marui Ninja running a Castle 3800kv on 3s...

About time for an update!! 😬 Having tested the lamps the dash, i still wasn't happy with the illumination, so added a few more leds to the mix... Does mean it's got a busy though. I've replaced some of the gauges in the cluster, with 'uk spec' ones (ie, in Centigrade, so I don't have to start doing maths in my head...) and figured it would be a great place for the oil pressure warning light, but that would mean cutting open a brand new gauge, so.... Cut the ring that holds the glass in, removed the glass (it's not getting replaced, as there's a plastic lens to cover the lot anyway), supported the face, and cut an 8mm hole for the ebay purchased warning light. Actually thought it would be brighter than that, as my plan was to wire the 'check engine' light above the voltmeter, to a high water temp switch, but not sure now. Although, there's a pressure gauge (built into the rev counter, but not really room for a light there, as I've fitted a Park brake/ brake warning light and an Overdrive light on there already...). There's also a chevy oil pressure switch I've wired into the fuel pump relay in serise with an inertia switch which will cut the fuel pump out (I've wired in a bypass button, just incase I'm in the outside lane at the time, where I'd rather be replacing the crank, than getting ploughed into at 80mph..), and also an oil pressure transducer, feeding the ecu for data logging, which with some programming (🤯) can have it cut power, spark etc at, psi oil pressure against RPM graph (20psi at 5000rpm probably isnt healthy, but wouldn't trigger the pressure switch, or low pressure light, but could programme to bring on the light and drop the rpm), so it'll probably do.....🙄 Bit of a dogs dinner, but it all works ,when testing off a 12v supply.. The loom tape and a few 2, 3 and 4 pin plugs ,certainly makes it look a bit more respectable 😁 Whilst the soldering iron was out , I wired up some relays for the electeic windows. The window motors pull a fair bit of current, but GM thought the wee switches where enough, they're not. An up and a down 40amp relay for each, should be enough- Having nailed it all together, the engine turned dash looked a bit, meh.. What I thought, wrongly, was that just the lightest of buffs, would have it sparkling again........urm Sooooo, that's something else I need to add to the list 🤦‍♂️ Having muttered to myself for a good while, I thought I'd do the easy task, of 'just' fitting the heating ducts, mainly as I had a nice box of it all, I got off ebay a good few moons ago. Thinking back, it was delivered to my folks house, and was a good few months before I picked the box up. My folks had checked it, and said it was full of plastic ducting, so job done......😬 Coming to fit it however, it turns out I'm missing a few bits, got duplicate parts of some, and not even for my car other parts.....🤦‍♂️

The 380 motor was as slow as a week in the Jail, so I made my own bracket for a 540 motor, but went with a Parma K Stock (if I remember right), which promptly stripped the spur gear..... So for 'extra speed' around early November, I strapped a load of fireworks to it, which kind of worked well for 30ft, followed by a couple of explosions, some flames, and a driver that more resembled Freddy Krueger...😬 Only a few parts remain..

Ploughing is about the only thing I could do with it, when I took it to my club, there were lots of stern looking faces, and told in choice language, it wasn't getting to run on their track, as they like there shins / ankles or something....🙄 Presume so, I'm sure the subject was on a podcast a good few years back, with Trish from Schumacher (also about areo in off road buggies, wind tunnel testing etc). Almost 40yrs doing RC stuff, I've made some really really really bad decisions, (Note- Rockets on an original Holiday Buggy don't work...) but you learn from them, so then they're not bad anymore ,but , learning exercises 😁 Think it's the first time I've been referenced in the same sentence as 'good decisions' ...🫣🤣🤣

Looking to be some build!! 👌 Been on my radar, since watching the Lunchbox run almost 50mph on 6s, in the speedrun thread !

Don't think so, as with my KF2se, it's the battery thats moved forward and back (the motor does move, but not as much as the battery), and I used a brass under lipo weight too. Think then, you have the motor inertia, as the sudden stopping of something spinning at 50,000rpm helps control the car in the air, as well as the rear wheels. Seemingly it makes a difference moving the shocks from the front to the rear of the wishbone too, although I'm probably not good enough of a racer to notice...🙄 Another curve ball, but, there's 'super shortys'..... I used one in my 'Modernise an Ultima' bulld (before the ReRelease , basically an the RB5 on an original chassis) They're a similar size to a single saddle, of a saddle pack (I'm planning on running 2 in a Boomerang, for a 4s speedrun in the summer...) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-ultimate-2600mah-2s2p-90c-hardcase-lipo-super-shorty-pack-roar-approved.html?___store=en_us

As far as I understand, it's partially weight transfer? If the weight is too far forward, it'll just spin up the rears, and get no rear weight transfer to the rear under acceleration, whist high grip, you can move it forward? This is how Schumacher altered the weight, back with my KF2se, just unbolt the gearbox, move it down the chassis, fit a different size belt, job done..

Sorry to throw you the curve ball..🫣 Be cool if you could flip the gearbox, for high grip (mid motor) and normal orientation for low grip situations (rear motor)....(while your doing nothing..😬🤣) Although, not sure if the torque reactions have been factored in, when gearboxes have been designed , so running in constant reverse could cause premature failure?

Doh!...🤦‍♂️ I'm still running a pair of 15t firebolts off an 860 on 2s, so an 880 will be fine...

Love this!!! 👍 Are you going for a rear motored design, or can you spin the gearbox around and have a Mid motor.....? (Presuming you can flip the motor rotation, or don't have rear toe).

It'll work, the motors don't care where the voltage comes from, you'd probably get some rotation, if you used a lemon some copper and zinc!. You just wouldn't get the full power and rpm the motor would be capable of, with the lower voltage and amp discharge of a Nimh.

The 24t limit is for 4s / 12s Nimh!! I'm using 15t firebolts in my Bullhead, with the older 860 (880 is 80 amp, my 860 is 60amp) on 2s and its been fine. An 8.4v Nimh is around the same as a 2s ,but with less discharge current, so I'm 99.9% certain, an 880 will handle it no bother, with its 12t limit. (Side note, I've run my 15t firebolt Novafox with a 1060 , on 3s a few times and it's been sound , quick, but a smelly motor, and the esc took it without issue).