Wooders28

There's a few of his vids that give the cringe, but the point was that ,kids don't want slow, kids have never wanted slow even back into the tamiya heyday, it was the 'mabuchi 540 providing the power and speed' not , providing the nice slow and safe speed, as who'd pester their parents for a slow and safe car off Santa!?!?!

I don't know any parent with young kids, (outside of my old gen X RC world), that care or even know what Nimh is tbh!!! Most of them only know lithium, they've had IPhones in their pockets for getting on 20yrs (and yes, I'm the oldest parent at the school gates..🫣) They're now just hooked on the Kev Talbot kind of vids.

Most of us found our passion for RC, sparked by the 80's Tamiya promo vids in our local modelshop. The likes of the recent DT04 official promo vid, that concentrates on it having steering (that understeer like mad, not sure why you would use that footage..) and the ability of being able to remove the (Nimh..😳) battery easily, but drives really slow , is a bit..... 😴 Do the big companies now depend on other unboxing/run vids from 'influencers ' to create the buzz? Nothing creates the spark like the 80's Tamiya promo vids, with cars getting flung (probably literally when you look back...) off dunes ,and look to be doing 100mph. Well, recently saw the vid Big Merica RC posted, and oh my.....😳 (Yeah I know it's not a manufacturer vid, and the engine noise is added, but as a vid show casing the new Losi gyro tech in 'freestyle' mode , I'm not sure if I need to go find myself a paper round! 😁)

I love my Tamiyas, but Kyosho are the next level for quality and performance, which is obviously represented in the price. We had this discussion in the club, are the Legendary serise to be classed as 'vintage' seeing as they are pretty much a totally new car, built for brushless and lipo, with modern oil filled diffs, slippers and shocks, they just look like their older cousins? And this is why you need a Kyosho legend in your collection, I have the Ultima, and its great with a 10.5t, but I'm eyeing up the Optima Pro ,really as I wanted one when they where first released, but where chain drive, and that put me off, but if I was just going to get just one, I'd maybe say the Mid. Modern go with old skool show 🤷‍♂️.

Good to know, I had my eye on an 8.5t on the club sale page the other day, as I wondered if the 10.5t would be too mild! 😳

(I know I've posted this before but..) How i see the Super Hotshot on the 2.2's..🫣🤣

'Collection only' on this order, But, should be enough to start the Avante build, plus a few others in the wings...

But putting 2.2" wheels on, still looks wrong, that's 22" wheels if full scale 😳

Hoping to get back to the track, so probably a Schumacher LD3, and give my daughter my Laydown. And if Kyosho bring out a Mid Custom, then...🙄

Both my cars are compliant (2ltr Golf and the 5.7ltr TransAm...), but my wife's 1.5ltr diesel Focus isn't 🤷‍♂️ Which means she doesn't just 'nip into Glasgow' with kids anymore when I'm working a weekend, and come back with arm loads of 'bargain' clothes after a scran in TGI Fridays , so it's saving me a load of money ,I can spend on full size and RC cars!! 😁 (Every cloud..) Normally spend my money with Ronnie at Uddingston.

Generally I start the other way around, start with the slipper too loose (but not slack.. ) and tighten rather than too tight and slacken. Just remember there's a fair bit of heat generated in a slipper when it's slipping, so might want to do short bursts, and let it cool a bit, otherwise spurs get a bit melty (my DF03 spur....)🫣🤦‍♂️🤣 If its lifting the front end, it's too tight, in an ideal world you want the front end light, but not lifting, and slipping before the ball diff does. It's more about sight, feel and sound, rather than backing off the slipper xx turns etc. I would get aftermarket diff balls (I believe its Team Associated 3/32 balls for the TD2?) as the tamiya ones are usually just steel, and can roll out a bit like sausages, and loose the tension, where as the tungsten carbide balls in 'race cars' are much more harder wearing. To build the diff, I follow Trish , the designer/ tech guy from Schumacher, if there's people that know about ball diffs, it's the company that invented them.. (Yeah its a Schumacher Laydown, but the procedure is pretty much the same)

One of the reasons I've not been... Edinburgh isn't car friendly , a nightmare to drive into and a mortgage to park once you're there, so never just popped in for a look around the shops. Only been in to goto the Zoo with the kids, a Show at the fringe or meet relatives at the Christmas Market, (where you end up at the packed Wetherspoons as you can feed the 10 of you cheaper than buying a mulled wine at the market.. ). Mercs aren't my thing...🫣🤣

Never actually been there!, let me know if it's worth a visit (but I ain't driving into Edinburgh...🙈) Think this is the 190? It's a larger scale body (like the frewer bodies L&L sell) , it's sat on an Optima Mid Custom chassis (literally just sat, not got around to fitting body posts to the mid) ,can be for sale if it's needed.

Be nice to see more of that build of possible ? On this thread, That's an awesome set up!! I've got a ducted fan out of a bathroom sat waiting (a project to do projects 🤦‍♂️) to rig up something similar..

Probably Associated's MT10....🙊 Its not a tamiya, so you won't worry about its looks , just use, abuse and enjoy..🤷‍♂️ If it must be a tamiya, I'd go DT03 (mainly as I've got a few..) and nail on some larger wheels/tyres, and the gearbox is bullet proof with bearings in it (and maybe different outdrives and driveshafts, but I'd just change them if/when they break)... I've fitted the FTX Bugsta wheels /tyres on the rear (wider 12mm hex required) and you'd need to bodge the front for 12mm hex (i used the RB5 parts, the DT04 might work, theres plenty of threads on here) ,but you love an engineering challenge so 💪.

I've got the new chassis out of the Racing fighter box, and its the same colour... With everything that's gone on this week, I've now noticed it's not the black edition, sorry bud....🤦‍♂️

Favourite, The DF03 Dark Impact. I don't know if it's because we moved on from the old brushed motors and Nicad/Nimh together, (grew up together...?) .Had the car since around 2007, it was first car I swapped to brushless and lipo, so fitted a slipper etc and it's sublime with the Castle 5700kv on 3s. Least, probably the Frog (original not re re, as I've not tried that). After the gearbox got new parts and then, new parts, it became less enjoyable, because you know its a ticking time bomb, one thumb push away from costing me money.

Race classes have stayed pretty much the same, since I started racing back in the 80's! (Think the on-road have blinky though) 2wd, 4wd and trucks (although trucks have changed a bit 😏, and you could add 'Vintage' but you can run those with the 2 or 4wd anyway) Oh that would be cool! Keep the look of the Turbine cars of the 60's 👌 "How many miles to the tank?" "About 30yrs".....🤣 Brushless motors (and lipo..) actually make their cars go aswell as their 80's promo vids suggested! (Ie, Without the need to be thrown off a dune...)

I've a Bullhead , and went with the Traxxas T Maxx plastic shocks, about £20 off ebay for the 8. Had to do a bit of botchery to get them nailed on (if I remember right, I swapped over the rod ends on the shock shaft, and put a bit of heat shrink on the shoulder on the top eyelet screw to take up the slack),

I'd go Blitzer, paddles , brushless and lipo (probably 3s, if the gearbox is good, the beach really sucks the power out of a car..)

For shorty batteries, I don't think I've ever checked if it's legal or not!! 🙈😳 I always get them out of Modelsport or MB Models (intellect seem the best value) I seem to remember a bit of drama a while back, with people disqualified for their liHv batteries being over the 4.2v per cell limit 😬

Everything is Bar coded and scanned these days, so it's possible to trace back to the specific person and machine! (It's the workers on their first nightshift that's usually the one to watch for, as they've probably been awake for 16+ hours at the start of their shift already, alot gets held back at final inspection ,where each batch then gets 100% inspected and regraded by a fresh faced permanent dayshift team, but some can slip though)

If they're practising at a Hospital/clinic found on Amazon or eBay ,I'd probably say not as well as a Doctor at a top private hospital? 🤷‍♂️ Exactly! "Come from the same factory " doesn't actually mean a great deal, it's kind of more the quality control after that..

Looks good to me 👍

The BRCA just say for the lipo gear to be purchased from a recognised UK outlet to the model industry. Basically just to stop the dodgy fake stuff that's littered through eBay and Amazon. I've worked in manufacturing all my working life, and just because its "made in the same factory" , doesn't mean its all top quality!! The top grade perfect stuff goes to the named brands who pay more, but demand quality (in this case, sold in the major model shops) The next level down ,that's just got through quality control gets sent to the less fussy brands Anything that's scraped through, or worse still, the nightshift passed it (🙊🤣), goes to anyone that will take it. (Been known for products that should have been destroyed, have found their way out of the factory .This usually only comes to light when there's been multiple complaints, and there's a bit of an investigation) If you're buying lipos, lipo chargers or charge bags etc, just buy it from a proper modelshop 🤷‍♂️ Or pay your money take your chance.