Wooders28

Wonder if a small thrust washer would help stop if unscrewing, but - https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=24674&id=3142

I had the original, and had more issues with the usual ORV gearbox woes tbh.. Damping and springs are the only really tuning options for bounciness (if you want to keep the ORV Beetle look, start lowering to its belly and fitting different wheels, you may aswell get the Blitzer Beetle..🤔) As I've fitted faster (brushless 🙄) motors to most tamiya chassis, I've needed lighter oil in the shocks and/or swap the piston to the more hole option and/or drill the holes larger (kind of a one way ticket with that option though..), until I get the desired damping, although in some cases I've ended up fitting different shocks (Schumacher big bores usually) to get the desired effect. You kind of want it to sag a bit under its own weight.

Can be Probably not, but they need adjusted correctly. Tamiya seem to only supply steel balls in their ball diffs, and I believe they roll out like sausages, reduce their diameter slightly, and essentially slacken off, hence the tungsten carbide upgrade. I try to set my slipper, so that slips before the ball diff does, as torque just pulls the centre around, causing heat and wear, in the DF03 it was relatively common to melt the diff. This is a vid from the tech guy at schumacher, for building one of their diffs, the basics are still the same.

Not the prettiest car in the world, but the engine would go well in something like a Clubman Mini...with the 6sp manual (3 pedals is half the fun in something like that!! ) Can't really hear it on mine tbh...🙄 Depends on the motor current draw, C rating of the lipo and voltage sag. Something like a 4.5t will pull the voltage down to LVC and they're at storage charge voltage when not under load. Be interesting to see how different motors perform on a proper dyno, under load (not just KV /Rpm ratings, that data puts a chain saw engine more powerful that a Pro Fuel Nitro engine...🤦‍♂️). In my real world testing a 3800kv named brand, was night and day more powerful than a 4300kv cheap name.

The British Mardave Meteor used to be an interesting build, like Meccano ,you had to use a bit of thinking power. The instructions- Seemingly the Schumacher XLS is an interesting build too. Its what you get used to, I've compared running lipo then going back to Nimh the same as watching 4K TV and then going back to CRT (really need to dig out my old CRT out the folks garage), and it's similar with motors, getting used to a 4.5t and then running a silver can, just doesn't quite have the same appeal.. My 6yr daughter old started with a 13.5t and then moved to a 10.5t. The TBLE-04s is a basic brushless esc, with a 75A rating, but I sold them on nip (when they did come with them..) and bought 10bl120's (just bought a new G2 version for my Avante, so will report back how good the boost & turbo is). Tamiyas 'basic' brushless motor is £70, and I don't see Tamiya making them cheaper tbh,

Ohh, so close. Needed a 6sp manual upgrade.. Got a drive with the DSG for a while, then had to spend over a year looking for a similar car, upgraded with the 6sp manual, the DSG ruined it. (seemingly, as soon as you want heated leather seats, manufacturers think your left leg doesn't work or you dont like actually driving anymore....) Nope, I work shifts, and on a Sunday morning off a nightshift, with absolutely zero cars on the road at that AM, the old Scottish roads are quite pleasurable! Even been known to throw some RC's in the boot, for a spot of gps speed runs on the empty roads. During Covid and the 'Covid speed limits' ,getting to work was something else, oh I miss those days...🏎💨💨🙄 As with breaking things on an RC, this is a perfect opportunity for upgrades!! Oh no, there's a big end rattle, sounds like I'm going to need a stroker crank..😏 Brakes need replaced , hello Brembo's! (had to take a mill off the calipers though, as when the discs got hot after a few corners, they'd start to rub with thermal expansion, might have been easier just throwing the discs in the lathe, but..🤷‍♂️) An advantage of more power and reliability 👌 Some purists argue the induction roar isn't the same , (maybe a point on a Pinto with twin 45's , but ....) Proper gearboxes downgraded with awful automatics, that just detach the driver and completely ruin the driving experience... 25k miles a year, Handful of trips a year towing a 4 berth trailer tent, Shift work with empty roads on the commute, Pretty much every journey is a road trip , and just zero inclination to spend any of my hard earned money on just a transport vessel..

Urm, nope I hate them because they don't do anything for me, and offer nothing but a vessel to get from A to B. (I don't like on-road RC much either tbh, life's much more fun in 3D) 'Engine' swap / restomod the Tesla's good bits into something cool, like a Mk2 Jag, and then maybe... Not something I wouldn't be comfortable with tbh, that's way above my level of electronic knowledge (qualified in Mechatronics too...😬) I'm quite happy there's still a market for brushed , as it means I can punt my nip brushed motors and ESC's when I open a kit, and help fund a brushless set up (yes my DT03 have brushless, Castle 3800 in one, and 5700kv in the other...)

One of the reasons swapping IC engines for brushless motors is a thing, is because of the hassle of having to start an engine with a Carb thats been left sat for a while, that goes out of tune if the weather changes or you look at it wrong. Even in the 1:1 world, setting up carbs can be a pain, (especially if you've twin + carbs to balance), it's only really the hard-core classic guys battling on with Carb set ups, instead of upgrading to injection and modern ignition systems.. Run down to a 10t , run 3s and have lipo cut off! If you need quicker, brushless... Think I've a Bullhead and a Novafox still running brushed ,mainly as I'd need 2 systems for the Bullhead, so went for 860/15t firebolts, and you have to strip the Novafox to get to the esc! (Also running 15t firebolt, but has run over 40mph on 3s..) (If you run a 1060 in for/rev setting, the drag brakes in neutral are brilliant!! 🤷‍♂️) My 80's Mid Custom is running a 5.5t... (But I've managed to nail a Schumacher multi plate slipper in there...)

Brushless are more efficient, more reliable and more powerful. Brushed are similar to Carb engines...

Now restomods add more reliable, more fuel efficient, more powerful fuel injected engines into the mix....🫣

Same could be said about kits not coming with bearings, or not supplying a decent pinion!!! 🙄 Cost mainly, But, by also adding a TBLM-02s motor (presumably what would be used) to a kit, they'd need to add substantial cost to the new kit, or it would devalue their brushless motor as a hop up part, and we all know how Tamiya love a bit of Hop Up profit...

Sorry I've just seen this!! 🤦‍♂️ That's us running outdoors again now, first meeting today. Don't be intimidated by the Pros (that's Daniel a fully fledged factory driver for Associated now 👏), they know exactly what it's like to hit a track for the first time, and will be on hand for advise etc, so don't be afraid to ask.

Life's usual ups and downs.. I'm down south for probably a week or so, so I'll give you a shout when I'm back up the road. 👍

I've an original mid custom, managed to nail in a Schumacher multi plate slipper, and it's running a 5.5t without any issues. The best all rounder tyre I've found without going for the donk wheels, is the Schumacher 2" blocks in the blue compound, nice grip on pretty much all surfaces (turned out to be quite good racing on dry astro, needed the 2" full spike for wet though). https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-block-rears-blue-cat-2280 My re re Ultima recommended 5k-30k cst oil for the diff, not sure what the Mid recommends, I went for 15k, as I had some sat on the shelf, and it seems okay on a track, but oil isn't expensive so going to get a better selection on my next modelsport order (postage is the expensive bit, if just getting one bottle)

I don't have a new mid, so , what kind of room is there, to get between the belts? This is my goto 2s stick lipo, fits anywhere a 6s (7.2v) nimh/nicad fits (think it's a little smaller if anything) Just not in stock until May...🤦‍♂️ https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/core-rc-4000mahr-7.4v-30-60c-2s-lipo-388538

How you doing mate!? I bought a few of the DT03 kits when Amazon had them on a sale, I'll have a look at what's left in the boxes.

I'd only buy a bangood special etc, for a gift for a young relative, test the water if they're going to get a p̶r̶o̶p̶e̶r̶ named brand RC in subsequent presents!! Most new builds, I buy upgrades straight from the off anyway (bearings, pinion esc and motor ), so getting a used doesn't phase me at all, sometimes it's part of the fun (?) sourcing / bodging (finding other parts from other manufacturers fit etc) or manufacturing parts. Some new kits have come in quite cheap, once I've sold the nip tamiya esc and motor, an Amazon offer DT03 came in real cheap, once the nip motor, esc, wheels and tyres where sold on, (my 2011 Avante motor will be hitting ebay shortly, to off-set a brushless motor).

I've had to put cars in a storage box, and throw in some car air fresheners, left for a week or 2, just to get the stench out of some.....😳

They the Schumacher venom tyres? I just couldn't get those things to hook at all!! 😳

My boomerang came just sellotaped up in a tesco carrier bag, and a post it note taped on, no bubble wrap nothing. I was looking at this thing on the kitchen floor, my wife had taken off the postman, with anger building ,thinking of all the parts I'm going to have to replace.... Then my wife pipes up, " it's a Bl@@dy good job you've not been buying more RC cars" , and suddenly I was okay with 'stealth ' packaging 😁🤣🤣🤣🤣 (Was totally fine btw)

This is how my recent order arrived on its journey from Europe to the UK. And how one arrived back in 2017 Not really going bananas with packaging, but the boxes are stout and both arrived fine and damage free. I only know DHL as a private delivery company, so i went for the cheap slower option. Turned out, it's the German postal service, (USPS in the States?) so came through with extra duties (now the UK isn't in the EU) ... Might be worth doing some digging, and see if the more expensive option lands with duties paid.

Only motor test I've done. 4.5t, blinky ,fully charged 2s, dusty painted workshop floor with bald tyres - Vs, Only change, spiked tyres on astro Pretty much consistent with the advertised no load box KV of 9100. There's a vid on YouTube , testing degrees of boost and turbo on one of those motors. Pretty much double the KV.

Must add, If you want to run the 2" on the front of a 4wd with 2.2", you need to flip the tyre, and trim a little off the lip, so it sits nice

Tamiya purchases I usually wait until they come down in price, and let others find what the weak points are... Race cars, as soon as they're released, they usually don't come down in price much, and usually don't have weak points.

I've run quite a few on the street ,well, pretty much all of them have run in the Speedrun thread on here. Found the Schumacher block, blue compound work well (yes they're off road but I've not seen a road that's mirror smooth, wear isn't too bad, and the 2" tyre does fit in 2.2" wheels, gives a real low profile, although a bit like fitting the centres to Grasshopper/Hornet/frog wheels 🫣💪). https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-block-rears-blue-cat-2280 Adjusted the ride height using the furthest out shock position, and adjusted spring height.