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Posts posted by Wooders28
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4 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:
parents probably like seeing that it's a safe RC to run so you get NiMH batteries (oh the horror! Old tech!)
I don't know any parent with young kids, (outside of my old gen X RC world), that care or even know what Nimh is tbh!!!
Most of them only know lithium, they've had IPhones in their pockets for getting on 20yrs (and yes, I'm the oldest parent at the school gates..🫣)
They're now just hooked on the Kev Talbot kind of vids.
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Most of us found our passion for RC, sparked by the 80's Tamiya promo vids in our local modelshop.
The likes of the recent DT04 official promo vid, that concentrates on it having steering (that understeer like mad, not sure why you would use that footage..) and the ability of being able to remove the (Nimh..😳) battery easily, but drives really slow , is a bit..... 😴
Do the big companies now depend on other unboxing/run vids from 'influencers ' to create the buzz?
Nothing creates the spark like the 80's Tamiya promo vids, with cars getting flung (probably literally when you look back...) off dunes ,and look to be doing 100mph.
Well, recently saw the vid Big Merica RC posted, and oh my.....😳
(Yeah I know it's not a manufacturer vid, and the engine noise is added, but as a vid show casing the new Losi gyro tech in 'freestyle' mode , I'm not sure if I need to go find myself a paper round! 😁)
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I love my Tamiyas, but Kyosho are the next level for quality and performance, which is obviously represented in the price.
We had this discussion in the club, are the Legendary serise to be classed as 'vintage' seeing as they are pretty much a totally new car, built for brushless and lipo, with modern oil filled diffs, slippers and shocks, they just look like their older cousins?
And this is why you need a Kyosho legend in your collection, I have the Ultima, and its great with a 10.5t, but I'm eyeing up the Optima Pro ,really as I wanted one when they where first released, but where chain drive, and that put me off, but if I was just going to get just one, I'd maybe say the Mid. Modern go with old skool show 🤷♂️.
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5 hours ago, kevinb120 said:
SP10.5 and the BL120 are a nice pair, just did the same combo. Beastly if you add boost and turbo, had to tame it back down
Good to know,
I had my eye on an 8.5t on the club sale page the other day, as I wondered if the 10.5t would be too mild! 😳
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On 4/5/2025 at 1:44 PM, Twinfan said:
Scale accuracy? Not in the least bit interested. Buggies are my thing and most of them aren't really based on real life vehicles.
But putting 2.2" wheels on, still looks wrong, that's 22" wheels if full scale 😳
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Hoping to get back to the track, so probably a Schumacher LD3, and give my daughter my Laydown.
And if Kyosho bring out a Mid Custom, then...🙄
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9 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
I refused to spend any money in any shops within the zone
Both my cars are compliant (2ltr Golf and the 5.7ltr TransAm...), but my wife's 1.5ltr diesel Focus isn't 🤷♂️
Which means she doesn't just 'nip into Glasgow' with kids anymore when I'm working a weekend, and come back with arm loads of 'bargain' clothes after a scran in TGI Fridays , so it's saving me a load of money ,I can spend on full size and RC cars!! 😁
(Every cloud..)
Normally spend my money with Ronnie at Uddingston.
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On 4/1/2025 at 9:21 PM, LewisA said:
I've been trying to fine tune the slipper clutch however, after some wheelies the ball diff now feels Very gritty - oops.
Generally I start the other way around, start with the slipper too loose (but not slack.. ) and tighten rather than too tight and slacken.
Just remember there's a fair bit of heat generated in a slipper when it's slipping, so might want to do short bursts, and let it cool a bit, otherwise spurs get a bit melty (my DF03 spur....)🫣🤦♂️🤣
If its lifting the front end, it's too tight, in an ideal world you want the front end light, but not lifting, and slipping before the ball diff does. It's more about sight, feel and sound, rather than backing off the slipper xx turns etc.
On 4/1/2025 at 9:21 PM, LewisA said:Should I just get new balls for the diff?
I would get aftermarket diff balls (I believe its Team Associated 3/32 balls for the TD2?) as the tamiya ones are usually just steel, and can roll out a bit like sausages, and loose the tension, where as the tungsten carbide balls in 'race cars' are much more harder wearing.
To build the diff, I follow Trish , the designer/ tech guy from Schumacher, if there's people that know about ball diffs, it's the company that invented them..
(Yeah its a Schumacher Laydown, but the procedure is pretty much the same)
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54 minutes ago, Mikey P said:
we won't be driving in. We'll leave the car in Inverkeithing and get the train in
One of the reasons I've not been...
Edinburgh isn't car friendly , a nightmare to drive into and a mortgage to park once you're there, so never just popped in for a look around the shops. Only been in to goto the Zoo with the kids, a Show at the fringe or meet relatives at the Christmas Market, (where you end up at the packed Wetherspoons as you can feed the 10 of you cheaper than buying a mulled wine at the market.. ).
1 hour ago, Mikey P said:That's definitely the DTM version of the W202 C-Class, successor to the W201 190E.
Mercs aren't my thing...🫣🤣
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1 hour ago, Mikey P said:
I will also be ducking into Wonderland Models
Never actually been there!, let me know if it's worth a visit (but I ain't driving into Edinburgh...🙈)
1 hour ago, Mikey P said:Mercedes 190E 2.5-16 Cosworth
Think this is the 190?
It's a larger scale body (like the frewer bodies L&L sell) , it's sat on an Optima Mid Custom chassis (literally just sat, not got around to fitting body posts to the mid) ,can be for sale if it's needed.
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11 minutes ago, markbt73 said:
Ignore the derelict MGB
Be nice to see more of that build of possible ?
On this thread,
14 minutes ago, markbt73 said:That's an awesome set up!!
I've got a ducted fan out of a bathroom sat waiting (a project to do projects 🤦♂️) to rig up something similar..
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Probably Associated's MT10....🙊
Its not a tamiya, so you won't worry about its looks , just use, abuse and enjoy..🤷♂️
If it must be a tamiya, I'd go DT03 (mainly as I've got a few..) and nail on some larger wheels/tyres, and the gearbox is bullet proof with bearings in it (and maybe different outdrives and driveshafts, but I'd just change them if/when they break)...
I've fitted the FTX Bugsta wheels /tyres on the rear (wider 12mm hex required) and you'd need to bodge the front for 12mm hex (i used the RB5 parts, the DT04 might work, theres plenty of threads on here) ,but you love an engineering challenge so 💪.
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On 3/31/2025 at 6:35 PM, Seanster43 said:
Nice one appreciate it. No rush as still got a couple of bits to sort. Cheers again.
I've got the new chassis out of the Racing fighter box, and its the same colour...
With everything that's gone on this week, I've now noticed it's not the black edition, sorry bud....🤦♂️
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Favourite, The DF03 Dark Impact. I don't know if it's because we moved on from the old brushed motors and Nicad/Nimh together, (grew up together...?) .Had the car since around 2007, it was first car I swapped to brushless and lipo, so fitted a slipper etc and it's sublime with the Castle 5700kv on 3s.
Least, probably the Frog (original not re re, as I've not tried that). After the gearbox got new parts and then, new parts, it became less enjoyable, because you know its a ticking time bomb, one thumb push away from costing me money.
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On 3/31/2025 at 7:41 PM, Kowalski86 said:
Even if Tamiya threw in a brushless setup, it wouldn't fit in with the ever changing racing classes
Race classes have stayed pretty much the same, since I started racing back in the 80's! (Think the on-road have blinky though)
2wd, 4wd and trucks (although trucks have changed a bit 😏, and you could add 'Vintage' but you can run those with the 2 or 4wd anyway)
On 3/31/2025 at 8:19 PM, LMF5000 said:You can run them on nuclear power
Oh that would be cool!
Keep the look of the Turbine cars of the 60's 👌
"How many miles to the tank?"
"About 30yrs".....🤣
On 4/1/2025 at 5:58 PM, Rookie Rabbit said:Tamiya's R/C cars are designed for leisure use, brushed electric motors are the better choice.
Brushless motors (and lipo..) actually make their cars go aswell as their 80's promo vids suggested!
(Ie, Without the need to be thrown off a dune...)
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I've a Bullhead , and went with the Traxxas T Maxx plastic shocks, about £20 off ebay for the 8.
Had to do a bit of botchery to get them nailed on (if I remember right, I swapped over the rod ends on the shock shaft, and put a bit of heat shrink on the shoulder on the top eyelet screw to take up the slack),
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I'd go Blitzer, paddles , brushless and lipo (probably 3s, if the gearbox is good, the beach really sucks the power out of a car..)
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10 hours ago, Howards said:
BRCA does have a sanctioned equipment list
For shorty batteries, I don't think I've ever checked if it's legal or not!! 🙈😳
I always get them out of Modelsport or MB Models (intellect seem the best value)
10 hours ago, Howards said:rules.- although likely only enforced if it looks like you are winning!
I seem to remember a bit of drama a while back, with people disqualified for their liHv batteries being over the 4.2v per cell limit 😬
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18 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
is there a different coded pass sticker for the night shift?
Everything is Bar coded and scanned these days, so it's possible to trace back to the specific person and machine!
(It's the workers on their first nightshift that's usually the one to watch for, as they've probably been awake for 16+ hours at the start of their shift already, alot gets held back at final inspection ,where each batch then gets 100% inspected and regraded by a fresh faced permanent dayshift team, but some can slip though)
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21 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
How will you know how your doctor actually did in his exams?"
If they're practising at a Hospital/clinic found on Amazon or eBay ,I'd probably say not as well as a Doctor at a top private hospital? 🤷♂️
23 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:no difference from the Friday Afternoon Rover
Exactly!
"Come from the same factory " doesn't actually mean a great deal, it's kind of more the quality control after that..
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On 3/29/2025 at 10:18 AM, iGP81 said:
Sent a message to ModelSport and got a response back this morning, they recommended this LiPo to me.
Looks good to me 👍
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On 3/29/2025 at 6:47 PM, alvinlwh said:
How is one to know if that ROAR/BRCA (or whatever alphabet soup) approved battery is really using the good parts?
The BRCA just say for the lipo gear to be purchased from a recognised UK outlet to the model industry.
Basically just to stop the dodgy fake stuff that's littered through eBay and Amazon.
On 3/29/2025 at 4:55 PM, Howards said:All come from the same factory in China most likely.
I've worked in manufacturing all my working life, and just because its "made in the same factory" , doesn't mean its all top quality!!
The top grade perfect stuff goes to the named brands who pay more, but demand quality (in this case, sold in the major model shops)
The next level down ,that's just got through quality control gets sent to the less fussy brands
Anything that's scraped through, or worse still, the nightshift passed it (🙊🤣), goes to anyone that will take it.
(Been known for products that should have been destroyed, have found their way out of the factory .This usually only comes to light when there's been multiple complaints, and there's a bit of an investigation)
If you're buying lipos, lipo chargers or charge bags etc, just buy it from a proper modelshop 🤷♂️
Or pay your money take your chance.


Why don't we get decent RC promo vids from Tamiya!!
in General discussions
Posted
There's a few of his vids that give the cringe, but the point was that ,kids don't want slow, kids have never wanted slow even back into the tamiya heyday, it was the 'mabuchi 540 providing the power and speed' not , providing the nice slow and safe speed, as who'd pester their parents for a slow and safe car off Santa!?!?!