moffman

I’ve use all the different paints from different manufacturers and although tamiya is by far the smallest in volume I find if your using rattle cans it’s by far the best I think it’s a matter of look on the likes of modelsport website at the different brands and compare but Give it a month or so and the tamiya paints will be replenished I think the hobby company gets a shipment every 3 months and the last one was early November!

No it’s totally stock I’ve even ordered the bearings for it but decided not to bother to install them in the gearbox because the copper bushings look better through the clear plastic! And I was luckier than a lot of people with the body because It only has the very smallest or rubbing from the chassis some I’ve seen are properly scratched

Enough for today it’s a bit like building a Schumacher classic (follow the bags) but more guesswork on which size screw goes where and if you don’t like e-clips this might not be the buggy for you? And it wins hands down for the smallest screw’s available in a rc kit competition (those tiny little things on the idler gears are unbelievably small) the actual plastic is very rigid and feels strong but not flexible at all reminds me of the plastic used on the early hotshot/boomerang I think you could use it no problem but not to the extent of racing especially since no spares are being produced (apparently)

Those bat-safes are worth every penny for peace of mind I have one sitting in my garage and that C11 is absolutely stunning and very enjoyable to build definitely in the top 3 of my favourite rc’s I’ve ever built

Yeah it’s been damaged but nothing that really is worthy of making a fuss about that’s why I’ve not put it back in the box just in case it gets more damaged like some of them that I’ve seen! I was lucky because one of the parts bags was wedged between the chassis and body enough so they couldn’t really squeeze together.

Got my servo for the RC10 build (heighest DR) never used them before but got two of them the other one is now in my optima mid also got the good old reliable hobbywing esc from Schumacher and decided to use a vintage team checkpoint 19turn motor simply because it’s all see through and it’ll probably look quite cool with the dollar decal on what is essentially an American rc buggy? But the fly in the ointment is I want it fully ballraced and the RC10 has none standard ballraces and quite a few are flanged and they haven’t turned up yet

Well done mrs kpowell911 and pregnant! Those avante black boxes are absolutely stunning

The one thing I can say I’ve come to realise is in 2023 after what has been a very tough year for very close loved one’s health wise is just grab life firmly with both hands and enjoy your lot whatever you do (including RC related)

Excellent glad it’s all good and it certainly sounds like it’s the shock body threads!

Not the exact same colour as the wheels and decals different and I’m super happy with everything about it

Finished my optima mid (apart from the esc to install) not an exact match by no means with the body and wheels but I’m not bothered the decals aren’t the same neither and the winglets aren’t on because I don’t really like them, excellent buggy and noticeably lighter than the original!

I think about a dozen have come into the uk and handed out to the LHS I was exactly the same as you didn’t expect it until jan/feb but got a text from my local shop with a photo of it and “do you want it?”………… I replied does a bear s#&* in the woods? I’m definitely building my one after the Kyosho optima mid anniversary! But £315 I wasn’t really wanting to spend

This little beauty turned up today don’t know how many are in the uk at the moment but this is one of them unexpected Christmas present to myself to build over the festive holiday!

I’ve only had one buggy (mid) that the shocks leaked and it was an absolute pain to find out why but generally they are all fantastic top quality kits!

Please don’t think I’m being sarcastic but genuinely when you placed the opaque gasket that goes in between the shock body and the cap did you place it with the groves in between the threads? They are so minute it’s very easy to misplace them?

It’s all worth a try mate it’s not going to hurt is the threads where it’s leaking from?

I’m probably just going to use ps54 backed with white and I’m only doing it simply because I like that particular colour I’m not that much of a purist to go to the extreme of matching the colour exactly but it’s going to be interesting to see what members do to get the exact colour?

I’ve just tried to match up different paints near to the wheel colour and tamiya PS54 is slightly darker and a few others are all way to light (can’t remember all the manufacturers but they are all called peppermint) so I’m thinking just to go for PS54 with a touch of white and mid blue TBH I’m not that fussed if it’s not exact!

I’ve just had a look to see if I have a tree with those parts on but unfortunately they are all taken off but like you I must have taken those shocks apart about half a dozen times and I couldn’t see what was wrong then I noticed a small split I’d obviously cut it off to close to the actual spacer! And i can only assume it was flexing inside letting the oil pass it…….l think????

I had the exact same issue and it turned out to be part No OT209-4 was cracked and the oil was leaking past it (might have well not been their) and I don’t exactly know what it does but I changed it and the leak stopped!

Had a day to myself and decided to get the ball diffs done and maybe get the gearboxes attached to the chassis but one thing leads to another just the motor and associated esc then on a dry day I’ll do the body! (Whenever that maybe at the moment) but the one thing that is noticeable is the difference in weight to the standard mid this 60th anniversary feels a lot lighter!

I think they look a lot lighter in colour than the Kyosho photos?

I’m on your side with lipo batteries! I’ve always had a lipo in my battery arsenal but primarily Ni-Cd makes up 95% simply because they are trouble free to handle and more importantly store if you’re not using them for a while (horrible winter months) but this year I’ve bought a few 4s lipos because of the traxxas maxx I bought at the beginning of the summer and although I’ve had absolute hoot with the truck the batteries are a bit of a pain to use simply because of their volatility and now I’ve put them away for the winter it’s storing them in a battery safe box in the garage on a solid surface etc etc…….just give me Ni-Cd’s

Buggies all the way for me ever since the late 70s with the tamiya rough rider (although the ford ranger was my first ever real RC strangely) any brand as long as its quality!

So they’ve used the pro body but added the cut lines for the mid chassis! I should start reading information about the actual items I buy! Saves me making myself sound like a right goon! In my defence it’s the cut lines that made me doubt it