30YrsL8r

The MK2 front uprights have the dimples, MK1 uprights have screws. The rear arms with the bearing recess on both sides is the MK1, the other is MK2. What was the oven cleaner:bleach ratio you used?

In 1979? Do you think I can still request one?

Sorry - missed your post the first time around. How is this? Let me know if you would prefer the radio box removed.

I looked at the plan view of the Sand Scorcher that's on the box and measured the relative dimensions of the roll bar first. The width of the roll bar, across the car, is about 3.65 times the depth (front to back). Measuring the gap across the gearbox mount points and adding two times the roll bar thickness (6mm) gives me a 92mm width. This means the depth should be about 25mm. This confused me even more, because that's what mine was! Anyway, this was getting me nowhere, so I bit the bullet and did some bending. I have straightened the four bends in the bar to bring the depth down from about 25mm to about 21mm. I could have taken more out, but I'm pretty sure this vintage bar will snap if I mess about with it much more. I didn't think to measure the height, but it will have increased slightly with the straighter bends. The difference in depth can be seen in the before and after photos below. Annoyingly, the rear cage can pull the bar back slightly if you don't watch it, and the extra height means that the bolt in the motor cover makes a more obvious contact with the cage. Anyway, at least the joint between the bar and the cage is roughly perpendicular. I may take 5mm off the bottom of the roll bar and re-drill the mounting holes to lower the overall height as well as the cage mounting points, but for now it will have to do. The body seems to be a bit happier, though another couple of mm would have been better. I'm annoyed that I don't know why this doesn't fit correctly, but this car has over 30 years of history and deserves the odd secret.

LOL Thanks guys - I'll try to get some references from photos and have a go. If anyone has a roll bar lying around, I'd be interested in knowing how high off the table the ends are when it's lying flat.

Does anyone have any input on this before I go bending the roll bar?

Me again. I went to bend the roll bar, but I'm not happy about making it anything other than vertical. It dawned on me that it could be too far back, and still be vertical, if the bends in the sides of the bar are too severe. Once again, can I ask someone to have a look at their SS and see if mine looks out of kilter? The photo shows the view looking directly across the two clamps for the rear cage; I'd like to know if this view on other people's Scorchers has a smaller gap between the radio box and the clamps. This would imply that I need to straighten the two bends slightly, which would bring the top of the bar closer to the front body post.

I got 90mm and 210mm. Time to bend the roll bar, I guess.

Never mind, at least we get to see the amusing lol cats. I used the AU joke with my kids today; I got one laugh and one groan....

Thanks folks. I will measure the chassis in the morning, but I suspect it will all be pukka. Although the roll bar looks straight, I did do a bit of bending during the build to get it looking right so I suspect it's not quite there. Will let you know.

It's mounted in the hole provided The servo saver comes close to catching on the torsion tubes, which is a known problem, and if it were any further back the steering rods would contact the radio box. I think the post is in the right place, so I'm thinking roll bar or twisted chassis plate. If I get the right measurement to the radio box face, it must be the roll bar. If not, I'll flip the chassis plate over and see if it makes a difference.

Thanks. My measurement is 237.5mm, or thereabouts. What's the distance from the centre of the top of the body post to the front face of the switch enclosure on the top of the radio box? I get 203mm.

Here are some side-on pictures; all looks straight to me. If anyone can post their measurement of the centre of the top of the body post to the centre of the top of the roll bar, I'd appreciate it.

Doesn't mean he has to be a w@nker about it; could have come clean and asked to cancel the transaction if he wasn't prepared to face up to his obligations

Nice first post, and welcome to the forums

That would be a great reference, thanks. And thanks to everyone that took the time to look through my build thread and make suggestions. The bent roll bar photo is very much a "before" shot. I noticed that a while ago and straightened things up; it's (to my eye) exactly vertical now and at right angles to the rear cage. The spacers are original (I believe) and undamaged, and the clip is rebuilt as per the original manual page. Shot is in my original post if anyone wants to check my work I also included a photo of the roll bar lining up with the back of the rear window, in case this is at odds with anyone elses. If I can't get to the bottom of this, I can always re-drill a hole; I have some work to do around the front end anyway. I'd rather not, though. When I get home tomorrow I will check the chassis. Given the state this thing was in, a bent chassis plate isn't beyond the realms of possibility!

I fitted the roll bar clamp to my SS shell this evening, but when I clipped it on (carefully - I hate that it's so tight on the bar; I always think something's going to snap) the body support post at the front doesn't line up with the hole. I can get it to go in if I flex the post, but I don't think this is normal. Could my roll bar be bent? It doesn't look it, but I'm not sure what else it could be...

You might want to spray one more coat of white while you wait, that will seal the tape and stop any blue bleeding under it...

I bought milliput at the weekend to repair the crack in my Scorcher bonnet (hood). This was on the advice of the guy at modelzone. [What was your problem with it?] Never mind - I found your post.

Good job I have a Scorcher If you get the chance to post a photo, I'd be interested to see it.

Let me know how you get on - I could knock together something bespoke for the SRB in perspex on a laser cutter as a proof of concept, but I suspect it would be too weak for proper use. Being new to the hobby, I don't have enough RC bits lying around to hack something together, either.

Has anyone tried doing this?

Simple, but effective. Well done. Maybe the TC home page should be updated now that the comp is over? Just saying

I have sold a lot of (non-RC) stuff on ebay over the last few months; no ebay fees on postage Of course, ebay owns paypal. Paypal fees are based on the total the buyer pays, which includes postage

When you are building the rear section (before the chassis plate is fitted): When the torsion bars are first engaged with the slots in the rear wishbones, the longer front ends of the bars should be pointing downwards. You then slip the brass tube onto one and twist the ends of the bars upwards towards each other until the second bar slots into the tube. By turning the bars towards each other, you are forcing the rear wishbones downwards, which takes the slack out of them.