30YrsL8r

Some of you may have seen my thread about turning a TL-01 into a 4WD Wild Willy 2 (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69530&p=497523) I've now taken the motor/pinion combo as far as I can with the parts I already have (silver can/15T) so it looks like I need to buy something (again, as my wife would point out) to control the heat of the motor. As I wrote in my thread, the current setup is pretty mental. Backflips on full throttle and forward rolls on full brake. This leads me to believe I can afford more turns on the motor (I assume all my inherited silver cans are 27T). How far should I go? Will 35 turns still allow me to wheelie but reduce the heat? What about when I take it off-road; surely the heat will be even more fierce, perhaps even with a 35 turn motor? Can I work out from the original WW2 gearing what number of turns I should have? I might be able to fit a 14T pinion using the motor holes I made for the 15T one (0.3mm difference in radius). Perhaps a heat sink and fan will control the temperature, whether I continue with 27 turns or try for more. Any input appreciated; I don't like spending money, and I hate wasting it

You wouldn't ask that if you knew the mess I made cutting out the motor cavity. Now I'm going to have to source another rear chassis section before anyone sees it.

Here's how I just did it to fit my 15T Sand Scorcher pinion to the TL-01: I tried one bolt into the motor using various holes and figured out that the top 19T pinion hole meant that the motor rotated vertically the least (vertical rotation is a problem because the motor makes contact earlier with the chassis, so it needs more cut away). With this bolt in, I looked through the lower holes and guessed (scientifically, of course) that the new lower hole needed to be "about" half way between the 19T and 23T holes. I inserted the motor bolts into these two holes and drilled a 1.5mm hole from the other side, then a 2.5mm hole and finally a 3mm hole. The bolts were there to stop the drill bit breaking through the plastic "walls" into the existing screw holes. Once the new hole was drilled, I cut away some of the chassis on the other side to make a space for the screw head. Should have used a soldering iron to melt it instead as I actually cut through into the gearbox slightly. I then inserted some 3mm diameter sprue into the original 19T and 23T holes to stop the bolt breaking through (one these can be pushed out if I want to go back to 19T and put in the new hole instead). Another 3mm hole in the small removable section of chassis on the motor side finished the drilling. I also cut away (more than) enough of the motor surround to allow the pinion to get close enough to the spur. That bit's a mess. When this was all bolted back together, the pinion was WAY too tight on the spur. I took it apart again and ran the drill bit through the holes a few times to loosen them up a bit. Very happy with the feel of it now. Put it all back together and ran it outside. WOW. First blat of the throttle and it almost back-flipped. It will now wheelie from a rolling FORWARD start. Brakes (that were very poor before) now flip the WW over if I use them hard from high speed. Motor still gets pretty hot, but perhaps not as hot or as quickly.

Ran my DT-01 against my son's DT-02 in the back garden, which is big enough for a decent circuit: "Right, let's go round the outside of those trees, round the wash basket (had hung out the washing earlier) over the jump (old wooden shelf propped up on a 24-pack of bottled water) round the bird feeder and round the whirly gig (washing line)" His was faster than mine in a straight line but mine was better in the corners. Nip and tuck racing. Great fun.

Hadn't really thought about paint, as the body is second hand and a bit beaten up. Perhaps a basic clean up and some stencilled US Army stars - nothing fancy. I've modded a Wild Willy head into a zombie, so I'll probably stick him in it and add some aluminium rod rolls bars. I've been looking at doing a low-T pinion mod as I have lots of silver cans and a 15T pinion from my Sand Scorcher - I believe these are compatible, pitch wise. By my (probably wrong) calculations, that should take the load on the motor down by about 20% from the 19T pinion. Actually, come to think of it, I have a Midnight Pumpkin pinion around here somewhere.... EDIT: Looks like the Pumpkin is 32 pitch (0.8 module) and I need 48 pitch (actually 0.6 module), which the Scorcher is.

Nice to see that a bit of "Carry On" humour can unite the world

Got my Willy out and ran up and down the street outside my house.

Now I can tell you about the temps: hot! Following my post about converting the WW2 front wheels to rears (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70210&hl=), I've now put in the electrics and taken it for a spin. All of the electrics, except the motor and the steering servo, are mounted at the back of the shell. With the smallest TL-01 pinion, the motor gets VERY hot VERY quickly. On the road outside my house (i.e. not on rough terrain or grass) I can whiz up and down, popping long wheelies (with a little bit of reverse first) and cornering hard, but after only a few minutes the motor is too hot to touch. The front end is very bouncy at speed and the steering suffers as a result but a little brake and the weight shifts forward, giving a very small turning circle. Accelerating hard whilst turning lifts the inside front wheel. It's all good fun. Looks like I need a higher-turn motor to keep the temps down - it should also help a lot when I take it off-road, as the heat will only get worse with the motor that's in it now on hills.

If he's anything like me, he prefers the DIY option - just for the sheer h3ll of it. What about a metal box? Thermal cut-off?

Get a discount with my buddy code: http://www.hobbyking.com/buddy.asp?code=8F8B998D-8CA8-4762-B769-EBC32E0D646F

I know I'm immature but I can't help smiling at the big brown starfish on the rear end!

As I needed an additional two rear wheels for my TL-01 4WD Wild Willy, instead of the two front wheels I had spare, and because I'm cheap and didn't want to buy some, I devised a cunning plan to convert the front rims into rear ones. I thought I'd share the process in case anyone else needs to do it. 1: File a groove across a plastic bearing and then drill four 2mm holes around the remaining rim 2: Get a diff half that fits into the inner diameter of the wheel's axle hole (the one that's narrower than the bearing hole) Cut it down so that, when it's inserted into the wheel, it leaves a void before the bearing lip but covers about 5mm of thread Insert a length of plastic tube that has an inner diameter that's the same as the threaded portion of the axle 3: Drill four 3mm holes through the wall of the wheel from the inside, avoiding the ribs 4: Find a washer that has the same outside diameter as the inner hole in the wheel and inside diameter of the axle thread Place the 10mm shaft into the hole in the axle, the modified plastic bearing onto it and insert this assembly into the wheel Place the wheel on the counter with the outside uppermost, standing on the drive cup end of the axle 5: Heat some polymorph in boiling water Shape the polymorph roughly into a sausage and insert it into the hole in the middle of the wheel, pushing in until full Place the washer onto the polymorph and push it slightly into the hole Insert the diff half and push down VERY firmly so that the polymorph is squeezed through the drilled wheel and bearing holes 6: Invert the wheel and check that the polymorph has passed through the wheel holes and filled the bearing holes If this is not the case, press harder on the diff half. If the polymorph has set, submerge the wheel in the hot water to melt it 7: Rinse the wheel in cold water to set the polymorph 8: Using a pair of pliers, turn the diff half from side to side to work it out of the wheel 9: The diff half is a VERY tight fit, and will have cut through the excess polymorph on top of the wheel, allowing it to be removed 10: It is likely that the axle cannot be removed from the wheel at this point; heat ONLY the drive cup in hot water, then pull it out 11: The wheel can now be installed at the rear of the TL-01 chassis 12: You will need to file down the diameter of a Tamiya box wrench to fit inside the axle hole in order to tighten the nut 13: The modified wheels have a slightly wider track than the standard Wild Willy 2 rear wheels (which are now on the front) 14: Feel pretty pleased with yourself for figuring this one out and actually getting it to work in practice

Back in stock. FYI, HobbyKing refunded the cost of the faulty ESC to me without my having to return it (after a LOT of email to-ing and fro-ing). Would have felt like better customer service if they'd just done it straight away, but I appreciate it's not mandated in the T's and C's.

Quarter-pipe at the next TC meet, I think.

http://www.animal.co.uk/ "The UK action sports lifestyle brand - Animal and the claw are registered trademarks. All rights reserved"

I suspect that's because someone else does.

I believe the Wild Willy 2/WR02 uses these TG10 Long on the rear, along with the longer hex adapters.

Perhaps that should be the next TC competition; longest (driveable) TL-01.

9400239b

I've got a lot of time for the TL-01, especially since I started my 4WD Willy project. Just got a boxful of DT-01 cars too and, having bounced one around the back garden, I like them too. Old and low-tech doesn't mean they're no fun.

I have a brand new Midnight Pumpkin chassis for sale, minus wheels, tyres and shell. PM me if you are interested.

Attacked an old DT-01 chassis for a proof-of-concept LiPo installation before I do it on my newly acquired Mad Fighter basher. Easy bit of fettling that I don't think weakened the chassis (took 0.5mm off the inside of the uprights and cut down the rib across the tub to about 2cm tall). Receiver will sit under the battery and the waterproof ESC will be mounted where the original battery pack would have protruded from the chassis. Will probably use a bar between the two screw holes on either side to restrain the LiPo. Battery is central and low, so we'll see how it goes.

You realise that's actually a 50-foot long giant balloon that got loose from a parade, right?

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=112471

I vote for option B.