30YrsL8r

First time I read this, I thought the C-hubs had fallen out and hit the button - that had to be a pretty sensitive button! Awesome work, btw.

I never got the connection with this and gun ownership. As I don't own a gun, am I not free and do I not have rights? Probably not a good idea to start down this road, as this is a pleasantly apolitical forum.

Thanks, but it's really not that urgent, Max - don't go to any trouble. I just wondered if he was going to be back because, if not, I can try to source what I need elsewhere.

I'm interested in one of his trade items but can't get a response to my messages....

Yay! Searches for "SRB" will work without resorting to googling "SRB site:tamiyaclub.com/forum"

I know they're proliferating, but that still seems weird

Looks like it's only me, then. Hopefully it will stay that way.

I need a pair of rear wheels for the Wild Willy 2 (the ones with the 12mm hex) for my TL-01 4WD Wild Willy project. Apart from the colour, I believe Mad Bull rears are identical. Let me know if you can help. I'm in the UK. Cheers.

Now I look at the XR311 bonnet, it looks too low for the tall TL-01 suspension mounts/front end.

I feel another TL-01 mash-up coming on.

Can't tell you about the temps. Unfortunately, I can't run it with only two wheels

Made some more progress after buying a Wild Willy 2 with spare NIB body set off ebay. The WW2 rears fit nicely on the back of my TL-01, without fouling the motor at all. On the front the tyres rub the prop shaft gear cover on full lock so I took the longer stub axle and 12mm hex from the WR-02 and now the tyres clear the case. Oddly, the steering arm hits the case on full lock and full shock compression, so I may modify the servo horn to reduce the steering throw and go back to the original axles (the WR-02 ones make the front track slightly wider than the rear. I mounted the older body shell by drilling new mounting holes for the rear, allowing enough space to locate the LiPo as high and as far back as possible (can't believe how lucky I've been fitting this battery in my models - I only bought this type/size because it was cheap). At the front I wasn't happy about drilling more holes in the bonnet, then had a brainwave and used the indicators! This way, I can move the shell backward/forward using the front mounts and up/down using the rear to get the best wheel clearance. I'll probably spring-load all the mounts to help the shell survive impacts. The front bumper and rear wheelie bar were transferred from the WR-02 chassis and (once the small lugs were removed from the TL-01 chassis) fitted straight onto the shortened one. Unfortunately, the WR-02 is 2WD, so only the rear wheels have the 12mm hex fitment. My 4WD version needs it on all four. Does anyone have a pair of WW2 rear wheels they can part with?

Not your fault, alfagta; nobody forced me to buy them and (when they work) they're value for money.Long story short, HK tells me they're not prepared to do anything unless I return the ESC (at my own, non-refundable expense). Apparently, their T's&C's state this. I asked if this was also true if you order something from their UK warehouse using their UK web site and they said "Yes". I pointed out that they're in breach of the UK Distance Selling Regulations and now they've stopped replying to me. Still can't decide whether to bother with the hassle and expense of returning an ESC that's worth so little. Especially as they aren't in stock for them to send a replacement.

Good point - they may have transposed the numbers. I'll run it with my LiPo alarm at the weekend to test it.

Once it leaves Hong Kong it seems to only be a few days. This was my second order with HobbyKing and the tracking for the first one said it left HK the day after. This one took a few days. Both order values were well below the Customs radar, though. Check the tracking number that's on your order and see what it says.

Great. I've bought three X-Car ESCs from HobbyKing now (1 brushless, 2 brushed) and two of them have been faulty. I'm still in dialogue with them over the return of the brushless one. For those of you that are "lucky" enough to have a working one of these brushed ESCs, you might like to know that (I believe) the manual can be found at http://www.r2hobbies...rcvp3310005.pdf - I think I know why there's no documentation on the HobbyKing site and I think the description in the HobbyKing youtube video could have been a bit more accurate/honest. Programmable LiPo low voltage protection? Options include "On" and "Off" (default = Off). Manual suggests that it kicks in if the voltage drops below 5.6v, which I believe is too low. The only other programmable feature is the "Mode". Options include "Practice" and "Climbing". For "Practice" read "Forward/Brake/Reverse" and for "Climbing" read "Crawler". Crawler seems to be Forward/Reverse with a drag brake (which should make Crawler owners happy because they were discussing this on another forum). If you have a problem following the instructions, remember that the SI-LA-SO nonsense doesn't mean anything. It's the one/two beeps for LiPo Protection and flashing/steady LED for Mode. Unfortunately, my faulty ESC doesn't have any kind of brake in either mode. A 66% failure rate is pretty poor, even with my luck.

My brushed ESCs arrived the other day and I just tested them this morning. 1st one works fine; seems pretty quick and the brake make the rears skid in my son's Violet Racer (it's a light buggy). Second one in the same car has no brakes at all (coasts to a stop). Hopefully it's a configuration problem rather than a faulty ESC (again). Sadly, not found a manual for it yet.

If I hadn't just bought a WW2.... Good luck, either way.

You might be better off putting all your items on fleabay; you'll reach a much wider audience. Perhaps with the TL-01 and Hornet as a job lot?

Errr, similar: OneCal non-stick cooking spray!

Exactly what I did to make a SRB motor cover; worked well.

Googling leads me to believe your receiver is the same as the HobbyKing HKR3000, which implies it's probably under a few other brands (as you suspect). I'll see what else I can find... EDIT: Or I'll just leave it at that

More like nylon that turns to transparent putty in boiling water then back again as it cools: http://www.tamiyaclu...72

Could you drill the hole out to a larger diameter and either sleeve the pin or use polymorph to "move" the hole?

HobbyKing UK has confirmed the fault with the ESC and issued a refund for the original purchase price ($25). However, this isn't enough to replace the unit as it doesn't include outbound postage. Also, they have not refunded the return postage (which they are obliged to do under UK Distance Selling regulations; remember, I'm dealing with the UK arm now). Finally, I'm also out of pocket due to having to install the battery and motor connectors on this ESC. Turns out my value-for-money purchase wasn't such good VFM after all. Let's see how HobbyKing responds to my request for what I feel they should provide.