30YrsL8r
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Posts posted by 30YrsL8r
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Best 1:1 vehicle I can think of that used 4 electric motors, one per wheel is the NASA Luna Rovers or moon buggies. 4wd, 4ws you can run them just front or rear wheel drive. If you don't mind collecting them I know where there's 3 just sitting around doing nothing, never seen the rain and barely 100 miles on the clocks
Bit out of my way, sorry.
I've been trying to think of a way of doing a proof of concept and I found a cheapish Heng Long tank gearbox on ebay (item number 290923182142).
I saw a post of yours on the Heng Long tanks and I wondered if you thought I might be able to run the two 380 motors off a pair of the cheap Hobbyking brushed ESCs?
Also, do you have an idea of what the Final Drive Ratio is of these gearboxes?
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Might be better off with this one:
http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=69801
I got one good one (works fine in my Wild Willy TL-01) and one dud one, but others have been happy with them.
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Will probably take a while, but I think I'll combine these two projects and see if I can get something to work:
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I'm not playing this game any more
That's why you lost - you thought this was a game.
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Assuming it wasn't flushed away in the process
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Whilst on the subject of this DT-02; I had to take the rubber tubes out of the kit shocks because the pogo was such a tight fit that they took a couple of seconds to return to their start position after you pressed them in. Now they bounce around like crazy. How do I get a happy medium?
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My son and daughter (who, up until yesterday, had never driven an RC car) have both commented on the poor turning of his DT-02 (stock kit Violet Racer) on grass and how much better my DT-01 is (has SLICKS on the front).
I wondered if using a LiPo (which I do in both, to be fair) might mean that it's not as forward heavy as the designers planned. It's also MUCH faster (acceleration and top speed) in a straight line than my whiney DT-01, so it has the power to lift the front wheels (but the motor gets much hotter than mine for some reason).
I'll have to try to tune his car based on this thread.
EDIT: Might try swapping the front wheels over.
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I've now replaced the silver can 540 motor with a Johnson 550 motor from a cordless drill (see this thread: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=70259&hl=)
I've also replaced the worn plastic bushings with ball race bearings in all the wheel hubs, which has made a dramatic improvement in wheel stability.
This evening, thanks to dimensions from mr crispy, I've started making my custom roll cage out of aluminium tube from B&Q and some wood screws:
I didn't add the slight backward sweep of the stock WW front bar yet, as I'm not sure I should pre-stress it.
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Just some ideas to get the juices flowing...
And they are, thanks.
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I have built a lot of similar projects
Thanks, Duane - that's some excellent work and brilliant blogs; very interesting.
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No problem... just show us the pics!
Deal.
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Thanks mr crispy - exactly what I wanted. Now I know what I'll be doing this evening
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Acoms AR-227FE has larger servo connector holes than the modern receivers, to suit the AS-7 servos.
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I'll admit that I don't know anything about crawlers or crawling, but I was thinking about their construction this morning and I wondered:
If 1:1 cars benefit from traction control, would a crawler?
Does anyone know if a four-motor crawler has been tried? Four motors (one per wheel) each with it's own ESC.
I've played around with arduino-type boards in the past and I don't think it would be hard to control the ESCs from such a board, with a sensor on each wheel to tell the board how the wheels are turning in relation to each other.
Is this a crazy idea, or old news?
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Can someone tell me the heights of the roll bar and the windscreen surround on a Wild Willy, please?
I need the height from the top of the bar to the point where it enters the body shell on both.
I got my aluminium tube from B&Q today, so I'm keen to have a crack at fabricating them.
Cheers.
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Sneaky -it's only the last line you have to watch.
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=290927832134&index=11&nav=SEARCH&nid=17902576401
Arrives _where_ in the middle of July? With them? They still have 30 days to dispatch and don't specify how long it takes for the post. Cheeky beggar.
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Looks like a Jeep Comanche pickup
+1
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Well, I've been lucky; I just ran the WWTL01 on the sloping grass in my back garden (proper stress test) and, whilst it got pretty warm after about 10 minutes, I was able to comfortably hold my finger on the motor.
I don't think the top speed is quite as high as the silver cans, but it's certainly fast enough! Wheelies well, even on grass and with a rolling start. In fact, most of the time the front wheels were barely touching the ground (so much for 4WD) so if you want to turn you have to come off the throttle.
Hard braking from high speed still forward flips it (got two complete rolls out of it), which is fun on the grass. Can corner very hard without rolling, but you can force it over with too much brake and a hard steering lock.
The annoying thing is, I can't tell you what the specification of the motor is. It's a Johnson that came out of a Black & Decker KC96V 9.6v cordless drill and has the numbers 66710 and 372841 on the side.
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Thanks to a comment by dyahipfakta (http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=39344&p=497635), I had the idea to pull an old cordless drill apart.
Inside I found a Johnson motor of the required diameter, but a little longer than a standard 540. I think this size is called a 550.
The numbers I found on the outer shell didn't yield any useful results on google, so I decided to give it a go.
When just connected to the ESC, it seemed to rev fine but didn't have that screaming noise at full throttle that I've heard from others.
When I put the Johnson in my Willy (uh oh) it just fitted and the tyre avoids it at all positions of it's (considerable, thanks to wear and tear) play.
Running it around the garage (it's too dark for me to play outside), up some makeshift 1 in 1 ramps and with the odd short wheelie, the motor got no more than warm.
We'll see how my Willy holds up when I give it a good bashing in the morning....
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I just received a broken dewalt 14.4 v hammer drill. Motor is going in my e maxx! And from the u.s 4 tg10 drive cups so I can fit the crawler wheels to my wild dagger.
That gives me an idea.....
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Just looked at the manuals and created a spreadsheet.
WW2 Final Drive Ratio is 18:1 with the kit-supplied 18T pinion
TL-01 FDR is 7.5:1 with the kit-supplied 19T pinion (my 15T pinion mod changed that to 9.5:1)
I find it quite surprising it made such a difference to the wheelie but, now I think about it, I'm using a different silver can.
They say you should only change one thing at a time. I might go back to the other motor and compare. Even so, small wonder the motor gets hot!
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You can count the WW2 gear teeth and calculate the ratio then do the same thing with the TL01.
Then you can compare both situations and choose correctly the right pinion gear for the TL01 using the WW2 as reference.
I'll start researching.
A motor plate should not be enough, it depends for the motor space on the chassis (I don't own the TL01 so I can't help with this problem properly).
Why holes? Why not one hole and one slot? Making the right motor position is not so difficult, after some attempts you will understand how to do.
I needed to modify the chassis to get the 15T pinion to touch the spur, Max, so you're right; 13T will need more or it's double pinion time.
Hole and slot for the plate is a great idea, too. Thanks.
I'm actually thinking about how to make the spur bigger now!
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Thanks for the input, guys.
I also have a TL01 4x4 which runs with a budget 70T motor from blacksmiths.....will wheelie with a bit of reverse and will also roll over at full speed.
That certainly gives me something to go on. The WW2 wheels seem to be about 110mm, so I imagine I might still get standing-start wheelies up to 45 turns with all the weight I have high up at the back.
My opinion is you must rethink all motor mount to have a better gear ratio. A 13T steel pinion gear would be the right choice probably.
These are some solution I'll use: Adjustable hand made motor mount.This is one I've been giving some thought to, Max - just a 5mm-or-so plate to mount onto the motor with various holes for pinions, then put the bolts through the chassis and into the plate. Problem is you wont be able to adjust the motor position with the pinion engaged with the spur; it would be trial and error. Still, a cheap option and minimal mods to the chassis.
If you have the space to fit one I would consider a rc4wd reduction unit.
I do have the space, as it happens, because I'm using my modified front wheels on the back, which means they clear the motor easily. I'm not sure I understand the principle, though. Doesn't a 2:1 version make a 27 turn into, effectively, a 54 turn?
Four-Motor Crawler
in General discussions
Posted
Two GRUs would be way out of my budget for a test of an idea, but the info on the speed of the tank gearboxes is very useful - thanks. About 4mph at top speed with that size sprocket isn't wildly out for a FDR to play with.
Any idea on the diameter of the final drive shaft?