davidwj95

About 250mm

I used them for a lunchbox and hornet axle brace. With the postage it worked out really expensive but had no problems with the service. I haven't fitted them yet so can't comment on how good they are.

It looks like the A5 part (bumper mount) has had a few repairs. This is a weak spot on these. It would be worth getting an aluminium A5 part from RCmart.

Did you disassemble the wheel when you put the tyre on? The beads of the tyre should be sandwiched between inner and outer rims. If so, are the screws tight enough?

They are the same chassis but the terra has some hop ups - full ball bearings, universal drive shafts, rear anti roll bar and adjustable camber links.

Yes until very recently the terra scorcher was £189. It seems to have jumped up to £209 in the last couple of weeks.

Modelsport have it listed for £175. I'm glad I bought a terra scorcher when they were £189. I'm happy to see them rereleasing more models on this chassis but wish they'd do the thunderdragon so I can get a new body for my original one.

Have a look at the monster beetle/frog gear box fix thread on general discussions forum (currently on page 5). I've bought one of these ready for my original monster beetle restoration. It's a lot cheaper than a MIP diff so worth a try if you only plan to run a sport tuned.

I've got an MST CFX. It's a nice build and excellent quality, the plastics feel much better than a standard tamiya. It crawls very well and looks really scale as it drives but it isn't fast at all. In fact I think its slower than my CR01.

After months of waiting the parts finally arrived to finish this project. I just need to adjust the steering arm lengths and then it's ready to go. The offset wheels have worked really well making the overall width 290mm which I think is the same as a standard mud blaster. The wheelbase is still longer but I can live with that.

I have a hilux high lift (there's a thread about it it a few pages down in this forum). Out of the box I found it a bit disappointing in appearance and performance, the ground clearance is too low and wheels too small. It's taken a lot of work and money to get to the point where I'm happy with it. I've really enjoyed doing all the work but I'd probably have bought the bruiser if they were available at the time.

Kamtec rough rider

A tamiya JIS screwdriver. I used a pozidrive or Philips for years. The right screwdriver makes so much difference.

Dont use a normal tap, use a fluteless thread forming tap for plastic.

Nice, I have an XV01 Lancia Delta waiting to be built. I bought it 3 years ago but I think the thought of detailing the body keeps putting me off starting it. I bought aluminium suspension mounts and slipper clutch a few weeks ago so I'm getting closer to starting.

I managed to get the body finished tonight. The shell is the lexan one that came with my brat with decals from MCI. I got one side finished then realised I'd put the main side sticker on the wrong way round . I'm happy with the results but those backwards stickers will annoy me forever more.

I'm waiting for parts so cant do much at the moment. When I stripped the car down I noticed there was a bit if movement in the plastic servo mounts. I bought to aluminium servo mount blocks and made a larger spacer block also from aluminium. Combined with the metal gear servo and hi torque servo saver there is now no play at all. I ordered some new tyres and some mci decals but most of the parts I need to complete this wont be in until early August so will be on hold for a few weeks.

I agree, modern truck/ truggies are getting more extreme and becoming a parody of themselves. The wheel track is too wide, body too low and horrible wheels with low profile tyres. I've no doubt they are faster and stronger than a tamiya but the appearance puts right off. Also, I've no interest in repeatedly jumping one 20' in the air off a skateboard ramp.

Started to reassemble, I should have back end complete and electronics in by tomorrow but then I can't do anything until the non gearbox front end and TL01b steering knuckles arrive at the end of the month. I dont like using self tappers where I can get away without them. I drilled out the gearbox mounting holes to 3mm and put threaded rod all the way through secured with nyloc nuts.

I agree, there aren't many new trucks or buggies that appeal to me. I wish someone would make something with blackfoot/monster beetle proportions and scale appearance but with a strong chassis and gearbox and decent suspension. Oh and it would have to be a kit, not RTR.

The chassis side plates I made years ago when I had access to CAD at work. I plotted the hole centres then printed them out at 1:1 scale. I double sided taped two pieces of 3mm aluminium together then stuck the hole plan on top. This meant that when I drilled the holes I went through both pieces of aluminium to get them exactly the same. The out line and battery cut out were based on the original plastic chassis. All cutting was done with the chassis halves stuck together to keep them identical. Only tools used were hacksaw, files, piller drill and wer and dry sand paper. I made the shock towers last week using the same methods but had to draw out the holes by hand using scriber, square and vernier caliper. I found a drawing online with the hole positions. These new ones are slightly different to the original set I made.

Chassis parts painted, gearbox stripped cleaned and reasssembled and battery retainer spacers made. Tomorrow's job is to make radio/esc mount.

I rebuilt the gearbox tonight and was wondering what to do about the diff. I packed it with anti wear grease which I'm hoping will make it tighter. It certainly feels so when turned by hand. If not I'll look into using the diff putty.