davidwj95
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Posts posted by davidwj95
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Let us know if it works OK. I use an old futaba 4 channel stick controller with a gate on the left stick to control throttle and gear change. It's the only car I still use sticks on so I'd be interested to hear how well a 3 channel pistol grip controller works.
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Thanks, I've done a few other modifications but it's the wheels that make the most difference to the appearance.
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The wheels that come with the kit are far too small for my taste. I fitted rc4wd 1.55 white 8 spokes to mine with 114mm tires. I've also got some Injora wheels of the same design which are as good quality but cheaper.
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1 hour ago, skom25 said:
Sorry for a post in a bit old topic. Will it not be enough to just fit thin metal spacer between NN4 and pin?
I am sure that I will not be able to find alu replacement in my area.
That's what I did when i built mine a couple of years ago, there's a YouTube video somewhere that suggests this which is why I did it. I can't really comment how well it works as mine hase only been used about 10 times and only has the kit motor but no problems so far.
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12 hours ago, Saito2 said:
Still working on trying to make this buggy a bit more neutral. I'm switching to old school oval block tires as they seem to work better on the variety of surfaces I run on (at least they do on my Hotshot cars).
While installing an alloy A5 part, I was reminded just how very flexible the suspension arms are. Could this contribute to the issues? I always was under the impression that flexible arms (sometimes called "high traction arms") would add steering and lateral grip which might be part of my oversteer/grip roll issues(?). The flex is even worse on the Terra Scorcher as the adjustable upper arms don't give any added support to the lowers. Would installing solid Thundershot uppers be something to try? I normally always run adjustables on these cars just to take the load off the mounts in collisions but the lower arm flex is pretty dramatic. Or, is there something buried in the basic suspension design that gives the Thundershot chassis these characteristics?
I've found this thread just as I was looking into the same problem. I took my terra scorcher to a track on Saturday and found it quite difficult to control so I've been looking for ways to make it less oversteery.
I'd already flipped the b8 part when i built the car so not sure how much difference that made. Today I put 800 cst oil in the front shocks and that has firmed them up a bit. I noticed that the top shock mount actually flexes before there is any compression in the shock absorber. RCMart do an aluminum front shock mount, I was wondering if that might help?
I'm running schumacher block tyres in hard (blue)compound all round, I was also thinking of replacing the rears with soft (yellow) compound.
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I put it all together and was a bit disappointed to find that the torque twist hadn't improved much. I took the rear shocks off again to clean them up as I'd bought them second hand. I didn't realise until I'd stripped them that there were two different sets of springs so I rebuilt the rears using the stiffer set and 800 cst oil. The torque twist has reduced loads now. Next job is to do the fronts, I'll try with the stiff springs first to to see if i can get an 80s bouncy monster truck ride.
The wheels have adjustable offset. I'd had them on the middle option at first but had to go to the wide setting to give a bit more clearance around the shocks.
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I got the front end done today. It took a bit of time as I was trying different spacers to get a bit more angle on the shocks. It looks like it might make it a bit lower than standard but I have enough adjustment to raise it a bit if necessary.
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I converted my wild dagger to 2wd using the dummy gearbox and it definitely looks like there is a bit of castor now.
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5 hours ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:
Nicely done! I love all the various holes on the chassis, definitely lends itself to all kinds of wild stuff as far as mods go.
If you can "V" the shocks a bit, it really helps. The chassis is so wide it's a bit tricky to get the lowers mounted out further than the uppers. At one time I used an L-bracket and made lower mounts using the 2 leftover holes next to the servo bridge on the axle. It seemed to work very well. Alas, the truck has long been sold and photobucket ate the pics.
Thanks for the tip. I bought a load of nylon spacers of different lengths so I can try offsetting the lower mounts a bit more. Any idea how much further out the lowers should be? A few mm should be manageable but like you say the chassis is really wide which doesn't help.
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It's been a while since I did anything to this truck so decided have a look at converting the suspension. I bought some second hand Traxxas shocks off ebay and had a go at making some chassis mounts. I ran out of screws so this is as far as I can get until some more get delivered. I've not got a clue how well it'll work but hopefully it will reduce the axle twist a bit.
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I wonder how it will handle with those tiny shocks. They look shorter than the wild dagger shocks and a lot of people converted them to take longer travel shocks. I'm half tempted by this one but think I'd have preferred it if it was lunchbox size. It might be too similar to my wild dagger as it is.
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I was quite excited when saw this but just seen on tamiyablog the spec says friction dampers. For me it's too expensive for a kit with friction dampers and no doubt bushings instead of bearings.
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Looks good, I've been thinking about getting the kamtec scorcher body and turning my DT02 into a Blitzer beetle. How did you mount the shell, did you make brackets.
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16 hours ago, RichieRich said:
I purchased the carbon fiber shock towers a while back and installed them today. I was wondering why there were "extra" parts that came with the rear tower. Who knew that if you want a non-insane way of attaching the wing, you could just get the rear carbon fiber tower? This info could have saved me an existential crisis!!!
I noticed that, I think if the rubber bands break on mine I'll upgrade to that part. Hopefully they'll last alot longer than the layshaft pulley which was about 4 minutes.
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On 5/15/2023 at 10:53 PM, Superluminal said:
The other thing the manual goes to great pains to mention is to install the circlip with the rounded side in - I couldnt tell what this was, as close as i looked even under torch light i couldnt see a discernable difference so its 50/50 if i put them in the right way up.
I'm at this stage of my build now, I even put them under a microscope and it wasn't really obvious.
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20 minutes ago, Saito2 said:
Its been some time but I remember using the biggest pinion possible. This not only bumps up speed but will slightly reduce torque twist too. I think I ran a 12T 550 motor. The shocks I got were the CVA "short" versions. I got them on Fleabay. They originally came from a re-re Monster Beetle kit, but ones from the Blackfoot kit would work also, I think I mounted them somewhere down where the cantilever pushrod mounts IIRC and then up to one of the many holes in the frame. They were angled back I think. Keep in mind you'll lose the stabilizer bars if you remove the cantilevers altogether. With such a low geared tranny on a shaft truck, there's always some torque twist. You can also rearrange the chassis to position the battery cradle at the rear of the truck instead of the front. It drove fine but could be tippy when the speeds went up. I got more width by putting Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator wheels on it which had more offset for a wider stance. I think several members here have pics of theirs converted.
Thanks for that information. I've already put the largest pinion in and moved the battery to the back. With the torque tuned motor it isn't fast but it's sort of scale monster truck speed. I have jc concepts wheels with adjustable offset so I can make it wider if it gets tippy.
I've found in my spares box a set of after market aluminium bodied shocks from an old king blackfoot project, I think they will be about the same length as tamiya short CVAs so I'll have a go with them if the thicker oil doesn't help.
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10 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:
My favourite variant of this chassis is a WT01 (RWD, single motor). Less complexity, lighter, faster in all but zero traction circumstances (particularly top speed) and it won't understeer like a pig, which is what the twin motor version does, no matter how much money you throw at it!
I agree with this, I converted my wild dagger to 2wd using the mud blaster 2 front end. It's far more fun to drive now with a mild brushless system in it. I made an aluminum chassis and shock mounts and used the high torque servo saver. I did a build thread on it during lockdown.
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Thanks for the replies, I hadn't thought about the stabiliser bars I've just checked the manual and it looks like I have the medium bar in one end and the stiff one in the other. I will look out for another stiff stabiliser and try a thicker oil as I was really looking for a cheap fix. If that doesn't work I'll go to standard CVAs. @Saito2 Do you remember what size CVAs you used and how you mounted them? How did it drive after you converted to that set up?
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I'd like to reduce the amount the suspension twists when power is applied to my CR01. It's a monster truck now rather than a crawler and I'm finding the wheels are making contact with the body when starting off from standstill. I'm looking to make it a bit more stable and don't mind losing some articulation. It's only running a torque tuned so not quick at all.
I was thinking of trying thicker shock oil, the manual says the supplied oil is 400. I was thinking maybe try 800?
Does anyone know if this would work? Or have any other suggestions?
I've got the standard springs in at the moment but I also have the barrel springs. I've put the stiffer springs at the back as I've moved the battery back.
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I also used the same wheels as you but the other jc concepts tyres (renegade?) I find that one rear tyre rubs on full acceleration as the suspension twists. I'm also using the barrel springs.
Im going to try changing back to the standard springs this weekend to see if that helps. I'm going to put the stiffer springs on the back which is opposite to the standard set up. I also swapped the battery to the rear. If that doesn't work I'll try thicker shock oil.
I'm not sure if you've seen it but I did a build thread on mine. I haven't added to it for a while, It's on page 4 of this forum.
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When I got back into collecting in the early 2000s any of the first 100 would have to be box art but I'm not fussed at at all now. I've never seen an alternative colour I like on the thunder dragon though.
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Looking good. How are the shock absorbers attached to the axle? I can see there's a blue anodised part but can't see how it fits to the axle. I want to convert my cr01 monster to a more conventional suspension set up so trying to get ideas.
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Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely be referring back to this thread as well as the manual when I build mine. I'm still deciding what electronics to go with. I have a 90's stock motor and speed controller in my spares box so might go with those at first.
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This is a really interesting read and I love all the detail and photos. I was choosing between these two cars and went for the cougar. It was delivered last week. I'll be starting the build soon.
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Crawler kits for beginners?
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
I run mine with 4WS now using 2 channel radio. It just requires an extra servo and a Y harness. It certainly reduces the turning circle. It looks OK on mine because I've converted it to a monster truck but might look a bit odd if you want a scaler.