davidwj95
-
Posts
156 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by davidwj95
-
-
The CR01 used to be my favourite slow speed runner but now I prefer my mst cfx or hi lift as they both do scale crawling/trail driving more realistically.
I've not used the CR01 for a while and thought it could be my next project.
I've been wondering if it's possible to turn the CR01 into an 80s style monster truck. Maybe faster motor, bigger wheels (clod sized?) And possibly removing cantilever shocks and replacing with a more conventional set up.
The axles and gearbox seem quite robust but I'm guessing the plastic prop shafts would fail.
I'd love to hear if anyone has done anything like this with this model and see some pics.
-
3
-
-
I've seen a blackfoot body on a CR01 that looked really good but the wheelbase is still too short. How about the hilux body?
-
I used an old servo horn screwed into an existing hole. Screw it tight enough to stay in position but so it can still be moved to allow tho cover to open.
-
6
-
-
25 minutes ago, Problemchild said:
It’s got to a sorry state when my beetle gearbox is constantly outliving the bodywork and chassis components
JJ
I still have my original 1990 monster beetle in good condition. It only survived so well because the gearbox never lasted long enough for me to wreck the body.
-
2
-
4
-
-
I've just built one for my daughters to use. They weren't all that interested in the build but wanted to put the stickers on. We used the soapy water method to apply them which gives a bit more time to position them.
-
1
-
-
I've just built a rising fighter and used an old basic acoms servo that I had in my spare parts, it works fine. From your list I'd go with the futaba. It's a basic buggy that doesn't need a fast or high torque servo.
-
29 minutes ago, Dakratfink said:
While I did race back then, my dad painted our buggies and he always had a thing for metal flakes and pearls. Never had a bright 90’s ish flouro paint scheme.. More the Classic “hot Rod “ look.
To me the most 90’s ish RTR or almost RTR paint job in that era was the Pink, Green and Black Kyosho Raider.
There’s my vote for Ninetiesest
Very 90's! I had clothes in the same colours as that buggy back in 1990/91.
I love the day glow wheels, I remember seeing wheels like that back in the day and wanting some for my hornet.
-
I've been wanting to do something similar. I've never been into racing but got into rc in the early 90s and the magazines were full of luminous buggies. I was thinking of a manta ray but have decided to wait to see if Schumacher or kyosho re release any more old buggies.
-
3 hours ago, Cuiken said:
I guess so, but it didn't work out when I tried it. The gearing doesn't help you out, you have to push the car quite hard so it gets a bit inaccurate. You don't know how many 'turns' you have tightenend or loosened it.
In theory it would work, you'd probably have to take a few iterations to get it right though.
By using a spanner on one side and a screw driver on the other (through the wee hole I drilled) I can preciesely add/remove 1/2 turn of adjustment at a time. The sweet spot seems to be very narrow (between tons of slip and none) so the precision really helped me tune it where I wanted it to be.
Your mielage may vary but this is a simple mod and allows for easier accurate adjustment if you find that useful. Irritatingly you do still need to pop the shock off to get access to the screw hole but you can't have everything....
Thanks for the reply, I'll see how I get on when its built. I've come to a halt at the moment, the servo I was going to use is too big so I'm waiting for a low profile servo to be delivered.
-
I'm in the process of building mine now and was wondering about adjusting the slipper clutch. Can you grip the slipper nut with a small spanner and push the car forwards or backwards to tighten/loosen the clutch?
-
I would also recommend the MST CFX. It's very quiet and very capable off road. It's a nice build and I'd say better quality than a lot of Tamita kits. Also, its smaller than a lot of other crawlers so easier to carry around. I run mine with a Tamiya Ford Ranger body which is a perfect fit.
-
I've been reading this thread with interest over the last week. I'm going to start on my XV01 lancia tonight. I bought it 3 years ago but the thought of stickering the body has been putting me off building it.
-
I really like the Brat, it's one of my favourite runners. It's gearbox is one of the quietest I have and it has a really tight turning circle, perfect for running in the back garden. I also like how the battery is easy to change without having to remove the body even if it is a bit exposed. The handling isn't very good by modern standards but that adds to the fun.
I have a sand scorcher that I built up using a mixture of original and rere parts on an aluminium chassis. It's far more impressive to look at and the metal parts give it a quality feel and weight. I find myself being extra careful when I run this as it rolls quite easily and I dont want to damage the body.
I'd say the scorcher is the nicer model but if I wanted one for carefree running I'd choose the brat.
-
1 hour ago, mud4fun said:
Yeah the problem is that alot of these alloy 'upgrades' are actually 'downgrades' :
- they add weight and make the car slower
- they increase the stresses going into more critical and expensive to repair items (such as gearboxes)
- they are generally only suitable for people that put bling before actual practicality.
There are exceptions naturally. I have 3rd party alloy hubs on my Avante class buggies but in that case they provide genuine improvement in ruggedness while not increasing stresses to gearbox (as the suspension and camber arms provide the crash flex).
In my opinion an alloy A5 is a complete waste of money. Only there for bling. Just my opinion but I (and all three of my daughters) have bashed and raced Thundershots for 30+ years and I have been one of the most vocal supporters of that chassis type on TC since the club started. If I have never needed an alloy A5 then I honestly question the need. I'm sure the makers of the alloy A5 parts must love the fact that so many naive people buy them instead of doing the much cheaper alternatives.
I generally fit alloy parts where they are absolutely the only/best option to solve an issue. Fitting lots of alloy parts is mostly the preserve of people that haven't a clue about performance and are just impressed by bling, as in most cases they make the car slower and worse performing - that is true of virtually all of the fancy parts sold. Sure, I've fitted hi-caps myself and paid alot of money for them but in reality they are no better than a set of plastic CVA's. So yes, I'm guilty to a degree but I am generally pretty careful with alloy hop-ups, I prefer my buggies to perform well rather than look pretty on a shelf.
AND as I say, there are several youtube videos suggesting that you NEED to buy an alloy A5 or a brace - all lies. You do not need an alloy A5 at all. Sure, if you just want bling then fine BUT these youtubers are giving very inaccurate information. They should admit that you only need an alloy A5 to look pretty. To actually fix the issue you just need to spend 10 mins with some basic tools and a much cheaper spare plastic B8! and if you fit a rigid alloy A5 or a brace you are now transmitting all the crash forces into the gearbox itself at the rear of the lower wishbone which leads to an entire new gearbox case replacement which takes alot more time, is alot more hassle and costs more. We've run a dozen thundershots for 30 years and I hope I can talk with some experience. If you want bling then fine BUT I do not agree with people sponsoring or pushing expensive parts that people do not need AND not making it clear that these parts are not the cheapest or even the best solution - especially when some of these youtubers are apparently making enough money from their naff advice to give up their jobs and make a living from their youtube vids......
I agree with most of this, I can't stand blue anodized parts, I think they look tacky and I hate to see alloy suspension arms which, as you say, transmit the damage to another part of the car. But I still think this A5 is a good option. It's black so not noticable from standard and I paid about £20 from rcmart so not bad value in my opinion. A new A tree or B tree would be about £15.
In the case of this part the weight wouldnt make much difference and I cant see how it could transmit forces to damage the gearbox. My main worry was that it would be made from poor cast alloy or the holes would be too loose. I cant comment yet as I have yet to built it.
I'm no racer, I mainly do this hobby for nostalgia and tinkering but all of my cars are runners. I've had my Thunderdragon since the early 90s and did the B8 repair a back then it works well but it's only cheap if you have a spare B tree.
I'd say the steel brace and replacing hinge screws with hinge pins would be the best option for a basher.
-
1
-
1 hour ago, mud4fun said:
Not sure why people keep buying these alloy A5 parts? We've run Thundershots for 30 years (including all three of my kids) and we have never spent on money on after market A5 alloy parts or even the plates that fit over it. We just use a very cheap, basic and simple fix. We've not had a single front end suspension breakage since applying my own cheap fix to these buggies and we've run a fleet of them in hard use for decades. Seems some youtubers must get commission from the people making these expensive unnecessary parts to boost their sales. I see a youtube vid regularly recommended to me about replacing A5 with an alloy part. No way am I spending £30 for something I can fix for free (or at the very least for about £1!
Half of the alloy upgrades available for any car are unnecessary but people like spending money on hobbies. I think it's quite a neat solution, I've done the repair using the rear mount and also tried the steel brace that goes over a standard A5 part on my thunderdragon but I have the alloy A5 part for my currently unbuilt terra scorcher. An expensive and unnecessary upgrade maybe but so are the hi cap shocks, alloy wheel drives and all the other parts I have for it. I'm trying to build what would have been my dream toy when I was younger.
-
1
-
-
I'm always surprised how quiet and smooth my Brat is. It's almost silent at lower speeds. I've just had the gearbox apart to swap to the lowest ratio so hoping it's still quiet next time I use it.
-
1
-
-
I put Schumacher cut staggers on mine and they seem ok. I think I went for the yellow compound.
-
Good topic, I have no interest in motorsport or modern performance cars but I do like classic cars and own a citroen 2cv and previously had a couple of old land Rovers. I choose my every day cars based on economy, reliability and practicality.
My interest in classic cars and rc cars are for the same reasons I think, nostalgia and mechanical tinkering.
-
2
-
-
5 hours ago, taffer said:
Stage 11 in the manual shows 12.5mm tubes to shield the motor mount screws!?
That's not very accurate to say hopup if it's part of the normal build!😳
Yes I've just checked my manual and I see them. Weird that they label it as a hop up part.
-
-
I was browsing RC Mart and saw that they had a tamiya hop up for the terra scorcher chassis which is a pair of 12.5mm x brass pipes. Does anyone know what they are for? I was thinking maybe to sleeve the motor mount screws but cant find a description anywhere. I think I have some 4mm brass tubing so I'll cut my own if it's a modification worth doing.
-
I'm happy with my collection of 15 cars. I've sold a few lately but dont think I've ever had more than 20 at any one time. I think having too much stuff adds stress. It's more sets of tyres degrading to worry about, more plastic parts getting brittle and breaking, more decals peeling. Also, I wouldn't have the time to maintain more cars or keep them clean. I've been enjoying revisiting some of my old models lately modifying and restoring them. I've found that I'm no longer as fussy about originality so cars that were once shelf queens are being turned into runners.
I would like to build a kyosho at some point but the high cost is putting me off for now.
-
3
-
-
MST CFX, it's a nice build and very good quality.
-
1
-
-
Width about 177mm across rear arches.
Turning a CR01 into a monster truck
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I had a look at JConcepts wheels and tyres on modelsport.co.uk. they are really nice and they do some in 2.2 size which might be more suitable. The wheels and tyres will come to about £100 so I'd be removed to change those last when I'm sure the concept will work.
I'm thinking about increasing the power first then I can mess around with the shocks to get the handling right.
Good point about the battery position, I hadn't thought of that.