chevyman3

yep i do understand that but there is still people who like to buy and build a kits that already have a radio battery etc. I'm not a fan of RTR stuff would love to see a KIT. It drives me nuts if you want to buy ANY traxxas vehicle you have to by the whole she-bang.I know there are a couple out there but would love to see a Tamiya kit.

Yes, i know they have the stadium blitzer and ford baja but i wonder if Tamiya would ever kit a SCT 2wd or 4wd similar to the slash?

all i know is when i go to my 2 hobby shops if i say tam-i-ya i get corrected AND if i say Ta-me-ya i get corrected back to Tam-i-ya, so i just say what ever i feel that day and be corrected.

you can use 3m blue fine line tape for clean tape line it comes in many different widths. you can find it at automotive supply stores.(not the blue at a hardware store either)

+1 i have a few of those as well for my Sand Scorcher and use a TEU-104-BK no problems so far. and yes you can hear the alarm

the hobby store paints are not all that pricey to be honest and do go a long way with tons of fancy pearls ,metalics to pick from,for the headaches using the polycarb paints are the way to go IMHO. Unless you have access to urethane base coats and a airbrush or use the polycarb paints in hobby stores you will be limited to colors as well. The polycarb paints are made just for that purpose all these other hardware/corner auto store paints are not. But hey there is nothing wrong with being a trailblazer.

the solvent added to paint to make it adhere to lexan and stay there is MEK Methyl Ethyl Ketone. some enamels and laquers don't have enough added or none at all. i use nothing but PPG or dupont urethane base coats on all my lexan bodys and have for over 20 years with ZERO problems with flaking off. Some rattle cans now on the market do have enough MEK a couple i know people who have used that work are Krylon Fusion and Rustoleum "Painters Touch". do you have to uses tiny cans of hobby lexan paint to paint a body? No! however i feel spending $25-$35.00 on a body to experemnt with to save a couple bucks is crazy but thats just me.

I dug out one of them off my Ofna dominator and it's tight i can't pull away from the rim. like i said not ran only a few times on dirt and grass but didn't slip or pull away.

I just used CA but i haven't ran it a ton (3-4 tanks) and that is on a 1/8 scale nitro. i have heard silicone and QUIK GRIP contact adhesive works as well.

looks great, some day i'll finish mine.

I painted my Proline chevy 1500 body for my slash today. I'll take some pics when i finish decaling it.

That charger did come with the white balance cord with the white plugs on it correct. you use that as well when you are charging, it will balance charge. you should have both battery plugs hooked to the charger when charging or discharging, that charger also does storage mode witch you want to do when you will not be using your packs like a couple weeks or more. The main thing to keep in mind is OVER discharging is the lipos worse enemy and will damage it.

The easiest way to tell if its a 380 or 540 is just looking at the can if it has the heat fins its a 380. the 380 will still out do a brushed 540 when its set up right. the 540 cans you will need a 60 amp or more esc. once you have the program card it's cheaper not to buy the hobbywing combo. you could just get the esc and the motor of choice the tacons are great for 24US i have several of them. for around 85.00 you could get a tacon 540 and a esc. you can get either in 9 turn 380 or 540. both below are 9 turn

does the motor get warm? you should push the brushless to it's potential if it's cold and not fast it's because it's not pulling enough amps because of either gearing or battery won't give it to the motor i use deans on all my packs. the motor should get warm (not hot!) I also have the 35 amp 380 size in my king black foot and it is waaay better than a brushed setup. the full size 540 brushless on a 60 amp esc are incredible. I would do as few people said above swap out your connectors and up the gearing.

Lately, the last couple of months have been my CC-01 Bronco.

I worked on the interior of my SS today hiding led wires.

Lucky you i ordered a bumper well over a month ago and nothing still.

soooo your saying a TRUGGY isn't very scale looking?

Well i can only add this "I will be getting one!"

A good charger is one of the best investments you can make, you can get a good charger to do all your needs from nicad/nimh to lipo for around 50 bucks the dual power Sky and thunder AC6 chargers to name a couple are great for the money. They even have a storage mode for lipos.

I can also vouch for the Flysky witch stated above is the same as the HobbyKing i now have 2 of them and for the money and the price of extra receivers you just can't beat them i also have had no problems with either of mine. as far as the servos go as Jnail said they are more efficient, they center better, some are digital and so on. But i have some of the standard older futabas is some of my stuff. The digi ones are nice though. buy, sit back and enjoy the tiny receiver and short antenna

The main thing when trying to get a "MIRROR" like finish is all in the prep work IE if you paint over a orange it's going to look like poo or piece of glass you have a mirror. Every part you are doing chrome (just like in real chroming) the piece has to be smooooth i usually micro-mesh my parts down through to 120,000 grit then gloss black then mesh again then chrome and it comes out fantastic. Is it more work than just painting base and clear color? Yes but if you put in the time you will be rewarded.

No the alclad is way above all the rest when it comes to their metal finishes and trust me i've been there with the chromes and other metal finishes form Model masters,Humbrol they do look great but they come right off on your fingers if you handle it at all. You can tape to the alclad and even clear over the NON high shine colors such as steel,aluminum etc. The polished aluminum and stainless chrome you can't clear over them but they don't come off in you hands. yes at $8.00 for a small bottle is costly but it's well worth it with the finished product. i just finished a p-47 polished aluminum and it's amazing. If you Google some of the model boards you will find most people say the same,i learned the hard way trying every other one to save a few bucks.

That's funny, i don't even have any shelf room for it. now to free up some quasi-cash.

I must say that is one of the more interesting paint/decal schemes i have seen. What are all them symbols on the body?