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About OCD

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  • Birthday 03/16/1976

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    Oakland, California
  • Interests
    Gas, brake, dip, dip

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  1. I know they changed from splined axles to cross drilled w/pins, but did the dimensions stay the same? Are the axles and C parts cross-compatible between the two models?
  2. Dang, that's a shame. Less than a week ago I saw complete Lexan body sets going for $35 shipped 😕
  3. Looks like I'm a bit late to the party, but I modified my CC01 wheelbase and slapped the Lexan version on it no problem. Just shortened the upper and lower links. At one point I was considering doing an ABS body because even with the lower bed height it fit really well. Unfortunately TMPS* took hold and I decided the Lexan was good enough lol. * Too Many Projects Syndrome BTW, those CMX Brats look fantastic. Great home for one of Tamiya's masterpieces 👍
  4. I've actually done this, and based on the responses I got, they are most certainly not going to. 😂 In all likelihood they'll try to sell all of it as one huge lot at an estate sale, and the remainder will go in the dumpster with everything else I own. Which quite frankly fine with. My collection means a whole lot to me but obviously meaningless once I'm gone. All of the bits and pieces would be a burden for my surviving family to deal with, and I feel like it's unrealistic to expect them to try and sift through it all. I mean sure, it would be fantastic if my hoard collection were distributed here on the forum, but I kinda don't see that happening. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  5. If given the choice, I'd rather it be a Super Sabre or something less painful. Perhaps a Wild Dagger. Definitely not a Clod Buster.
  6. I've always assumed they meant air-curing silicone like the stuff you use to make gaskets and what not. I usually apply black RTV silicone on the spline interfaces, and have never had any issues.
  7. LOL good catch, I somehow missed the all-caps "NOTE" that it can't do DC current. Hall effect DC inductive meters do exist though. Here's one for less than $40: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V433QXM/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07V433QXM
  8. I'm going to echo what @WillyChang said; without some sort of load your numbers will be meaningless. I'd maybe give this a try since it's only $23 and will log the peak amperage while under load: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBDGM4J/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07LBDGM4J It has an inductive sensor, so you don't even need to contact the wires for an accurate reading.
  9. I was an early adopter as well; had been following the development for years and bought the 5800 as soon as it came out. Chucked it into my retired TRF415 to see what it could do and I think my eyes might have watered a little after that first trigger-pull... I just couldn't believe how smooth and powerful brushless really was compared to everything else I had ever run. That setup was truly before its time. Sold all of my Mac stuff in the early 2000's. Solid state is better for me since I really already have another time-consuming hobby. I just looked this up and it appears to be an integrated amplifier with 15 watts per channel, and the option to run it from an external DAC. Also has a headphones output that uses the same pre, so it's listen to one or the other but not both at the same time. https://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP30-Digital-Amplifier-USB-DAC/dp/B005D7SKWK I wouldn't be too worried about the source if it's coming in on a USB and back out through an integrated amp. You'd probably be unable to discern what difference it made if any. I do like that it has an external power supply, which gives you the opportunity to run it from nice, clean 12V battery juice rather than the dirty AC mains
  10. I've never tried this combination, but would be concerned about getting an even coat of the yellow down first. The translucents are notorious for being difficult to apply evenly.
  11. Surprising tbh... weren't LRP made in Germany back then? Figured they'd be all belts and braces I'd blame the entire culture of "overclocking" that was so popular at the time. Treating components like wear items probably made sense to the racing set As a kid in the early 90's I managed to save enough money to buy a Novak and distinctly remember being relieved that the actual quality was proportional to the price tag. I still eventually burned it up anyhow. Novak really made some nice stuff though. Sad that they are gone Class T is just class D but configured to allow real-time modulation. They are integrated because 1) cheaper, and 2) signal processing fixes all of the crosstalk/latency/distortion, which enables the engineers to just cram everything together and let the processor sort it out. Tubes avoid all of this by being purely analogue. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Just get tube warmers and you're good to go
  12. Interesting. As any audiophile weirdo will tell you, the quality of the switching is everything 🤓 You can probably bet those ESC's were running matched FET's. Back then you didn't have the processing power available now to make real-time feedback analysis and adjustments. Instead you had to squeeze out performance from analog components by doing things like matching FET's or adding capacitors & Schottky diodes (cat's whiskers LOL), and even then you still had a relatively inefficient amplifier. It wasn't until processors got smaller and cheaper that they could be considered for the application, which in turn gave us the brushless revolution.
  13. Nice catch 👍 Good to see they included the otherwise-unobtainable pink motor plate.
  14. Here's the 49100 pink/silver dampers compared to the old 53155 pinkish color. Pretty obvious difference: Here's the Surikarn red damper caps compared to the 49294 red damper set. There is also a considerable difference between these two "red" colors: I've never compared the Surikarn-red to the old 53155 set and sort of surprised at how close they are in color:
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