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Everything posted by OCD

  1. I was an early adopter as well; had been following the development for years and bought the 5800 as soon as it came out. Chucked it into my retired TRF415 to see what it could do and I think my eyes might have watered a little after that first trigger-pull... I just couldn't believe how smooth and powerful brushless really was compared to everything else I had ever run. That setup was truly before its time. Sold all of my Mac stuff in the early 2000's. Solid state is better for me since I really already have another time-consuming hobby. I just looked this up and it appears to be an integrated amplifier with 15 watts per channel, and the option to run it from an external DAC. Also has a headphones output that uses the same pre, so it's listen to one or the other but not both at the same time. https://www.amazon.com/Topping-TP30-Digital-Amplifier-USB-DAC/dp/B005D7SKWK I wouldn't be too worried about the source if it's coming in on a USB and back out through an integrated amp. You'd probably be unable to discern what difference it made if any. I do like that it has an external power supply, which gives you the opportunity to run it from nice, clean 12V battery juice rather than the dirty AC mains
  2. I've never tried this combination, but would be concerned about getting an even coat of the yellow down first. The translucents are notorious for being difficult to apply evenly.
  3. Surprising tbh... weren't LRP made in Germany back then? Figured they'd be all belts and braces I'd blame the entire culture of "overclocking" that was so popular at the time. Treating components like wear items probably made sense to the racing set As a kid in the early 90's I managed to save enough money to buy a Novak and distinctly remember being relieved that the actual quality was proportional to the price tag. I still eventually burned it up anyhow. Novak really made some nice stuff though. Sad that they are gone Class T is just class D but configured to allow real-time modulation. They are integrated because 1) cheaper, and 2) signal processing fixes all of the crosstalk/latency/distortion, which enables the engineers to just cram everything together and let the processor sort it out. Tubes avoid all of this by being purely analogue. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Just get tube warmers and you're good to go
  4. Interesting. As any audiophile weirdo will tell you, the quality of the switching is everything 🤓 You can probably bet those ESC's were running matched FET's. Back then you didn't have the processing power available now to make real-time feedback analysis and adjustments. Instead you had to squeeze out performance from analog components by doing things like matching FET's or adding capacitors & Schottky diodes (cat's whiskers LOL), and even then you still had a relatively inefficient amplifier. It wasn't until processors got smaller and cheaper that they could be considered for the application, which in turn gave us the brushless revolution.
  5. Nice catch 👍 Good to see they included the otherwise-unobtainable pink motor plate.
  6. Here's the 49100 pink/silver dampers compared to the old 53155 pinkish color. Pretty obvious difference: Here's the Surikarn red damper caps compared to the 49294 red damper set. There is also a considerable difference between these two "red" colors: I've never compared the Surikarn-red to the old 53155 set and sort of surprised at how close they are in color:
  7. Well that's good news for the blanks then... I bet they ain't shipping those things anywhere Yeah live in Cali, but in the northern half where Silicon Valley is. AE headquarters it about 8 hours south of me. I don't visit Southern California often and even then it's for work-related stuff. I did visit Tamiya's USA headquarters years ago when they still hosted Tamiya Con, but they discontinued the event and I haven't been back since. I hear now days they only have the warehouse operation in Irvine and no showroom at all. I think many aftermarket manufacturers of the era loved Kydex too. A good number of bumpers and "nerf" plates are still floating around eBay and the like.
  8. This is awesome! I've never even considered such a use for old PCB's but wow, people have apparently been doing it for years righ under my radar. I wouldn't both etching off the copper either. In fact I can envision an entire chassis made up of green, blue, red, or whatever other board colors you can scratch up. A harlequin chassis anyone? Hmmm, I live in the silicon valley. Just imagine how much gorgeous surplus PCB board is stacked in warehouses just looking for a buyer.
  9. The old 53155 low-friction set is also an odd shade of red -- far more pink than the standard Tamiya red coating. It's my personal belief that Tamiya chose this color to be more fade-resistant and it just didn't go as planned If you look at the Surikarn next to anything that Tamiya has produced in red, you'll notice that Surikarns are always a bit of a unique "rose" color. I'll have to upload some photos later, but I also believe Tamiya were aware that the Surikarn didn't have any matching hop-up dampers, so they actually sold a very limited number of damper bodies with rose-colored caps. Now I know you're probably thinking "but didn't they offer the 49294 "red" TRF dampers already?". Well yes, but that set isn't the correct color for the Surikarn. The 49294 set is more of a deep red and doesn't at all exactly match the rose-colored chassis parts. I happen to have both versions in my collection and the difference is very obvious when seen in person.
  10. Pink used to be Tamiya's choice of color for "limited items", and in person the TA03RS dampers look identical those in the 49100 pink/silver set. I always thought they gave you two different colors in order to differentiate the front and rear dampers for tuning purposes.
  11. Sorry for asking but is it in the photo you posted? Me too. But maybe not a phase. More like... my primary objective lol. I created wrecks so gruesome that the life-flight helicopter had to be dispatched, but then only to collide! with the news helicopter that was attempting to report on the traffic situation below. Fire rained down on the traffic-stalled cars, and the entire emergency vehicle fleet was wiped out by the resulting explosion. Cars cut in half and turned inside out. Buses plunging off imaginary cliffs and being turned into pancakes. Floods. Fires. Mud slides. I destroyed Matchbox cars almost as fast as I received them. When pressed about what exactly happened them all, I'd just shrug my shoulders and say "must gotten lost" Needless to say it wasn't long before the parents decided they wouldn't be replacing them. Can't blame them really. Anyhow, due to my habit of reenacting horrific traffic accidents with nearly every toy I owned, my residual collection is pretty sparse. I had a dig through the carrying cases and recovered the few that I remember having as a kid. The "survivors" if you will. First off, my only Tomica "State Police" cruiser I still have. A 1975 Dodge Coronet Custom: For those of you not terribly familiar with Tomicas, they were really a cut above the rest. Far more scale than their counterparts (this one happens to be 1:74) and the wheels and axle design provided a bit of "spring suspension" action that feels great when you push them around. I still love Tomica cars A strong favorite; I was a big fan of racing stripes on this one, the Matchbox "Superfast" 1979 Porsche 928: My parents both owned variations of the Mk2 Celica and Supra, so naturally I had one of these, the Hot Wheels 1982 Toyota Supra: Lastly, and perhaps one of the more oddball cars in my collection of Matchboxes, the "Superfast" 1975 BMW 3.0 CSL: This was an odd one as there really weren't many BMW models offered in the US market at that time. Likely that my Dad had a sharp eye for the outliers. I coveted the this car enough to spare it from the fiery death-crash. And yes, the Sharpie lines around the front and rear windows were an early attempt at adding some "detail" to my scale models.
  12. Wow, thanks for this follow-up. I'm really keen on stories involving this era of racing. Outside of the pictures in old magazines there's just not a lot of documentation about the hardware available at the time. That body does look super-thin, but it's still amazing to think of how much effort went into producing a shell that would be popular with a extremely narrow group of enthusiasts. I hate to imagine how few of those body sets were produced. Maybe in the double digits? And those Sonax decals are fantastic I had absolutely no idea they existed and would be delighted to find a set today... however unlikely that may be They really look like above-average quality, all things considered. Did you buy all of this new and do the build yourself? It's a very nice model at any rate!
  13. Jeez this is such a rabbit hole Here's the bevel gears, naturally different part numbers for the 13 and 15 tooth versions Levant 9804384: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-gp-bevel-pinion-gear-43534/ TB01 50630: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/nitro-engine-spare-parts/rc-pinion-ring-gear-44002/ What caught my eye here is Tamiya has apparently designated the 13 tooth pinion as "GP", which to me indicates that the bevel was originally intended for the TG10 or Mad Bison, both of which use the TB01 platform AFAIK. I'm just unclear if the Levant uses a different gearbox than the TB01, but dead certain that the prop shaft assembly is entirely different in every way. So does all of this line up with what you have there? Like do you have all original parts that came with the chassis? Or are you using TB01 hop-ups or parts of any kind?
  14. Well here's something interesting. The gearboxes of the TB01 and Levant have different part numbers: Levant 0004192: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-gp-a-parts-43522/ TB01 50800: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/nitro-engine-spare-parts/rc-tg10-gear-case/ Tamiya does this sometimes and the parts are the same, but I'm unsure in this case. Do you have any pics of what your chassis setup looks like currently?
  15. For comparative purposes, here's the prop shaft setup in the TB01. It's really quite different from the TNS and Levant:
  16. Well, I see what maybe looks like the TNS setup for the prop shaft and stub? (edit: I see the list now)
  17. Ha, "manual"... Sadly just an exploded diagram ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I'm only seeing the page that I posted for you.
  18. (edit: photo deleted) Nice Is there a part number list on the back?
  19. I considered this also, but if you have a look at the Levant pics posted in the other thread, you can see a closer view of the gearbox. To my eye, the Levant gearbox looks almost identical to the TB01 version. It's really perplexing. Maybe it's possible that the difference is taken up by just shimming-out the pinion? The difference between 13 and 15 teeth isn't that much, and the bevel shape might make it even easier to adapt it in this manner. Also might explain why the Levant shaft isn't backwards-compatible with the 15 tooth pinion.Thoughts? @TwistedxSlayer -- Have you checked to be certain you have the correct Levant prop shaft? Is the Levant shaft the exact same length as the TB01? A smaller beveled pinion would need to be closer to the ring gear, which would possibly require slightly longer prop shaft. Man, it sure would be handy having a manual right now. Not offering a one just because it's a RTR is poor form on Tamiya's part
  20. Like I said, there will be a learning curve, but I think you got this Are you going to do heat shrink as well? From experience, it makes the insulation bit a lot easier. A cheap heat gun or micro torch would be the only tool you really need.
  21. This is the problem then? I mean, if you're trying to fit the 15 tooth bevel to the Levant prop shaft, you yourself stated that they aren't compatible So to be perfectly clear, I've gleaned that: You have a Levant that the rear diff and bevel are not meshing properly You are using the original Levant prop shaft You are using the Levant 13 tooth bevel that is compatible with the Levant prop shaft? Sorry I haven't been any help so far, but I'm having trouble understanding exactly which components we are even discussing. Hopefully someone else who has explicit knowledge of the Levant can step in and help
  22. So you're using the TB01 D-shaped shaft then? So I'm reading this as D-shaped like the TB01, but a different D-shape?
  23. TBH it sounds like there's something different about the the Levant prop shaft that isn't compatible with the TB01 15 tooth bevel gear. Just to be clear, this is a Levant chassis you are working on? Or a TB01?
  24. Yeah, I'm starting to learn some things about the Levant... Your thread from 2017 was helpful
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