Eleck_Rider
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Posts posted by Eleck_Rider
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Hello everybody,
I have been spending a lot of time recently 'chasing the tune' of the carb in my beloved Mardave Marauder, and I'm not talking about squeezing the optimum performance out of it either; I just want the **** thing to idle reliably.
After trying different fuel and plugs I tried a Just Engines aero carb which improved things considerably, but it doesn't sit comfortably in a buggy. Can anybody recommend a modern equivalent? The Irvine Airstream (original carb) has a 13mm stub and rotary throttle. I'm willing to try anything which matches these criteria. Thanks!
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Hi Simon,
I don't have instructions, but I could take some pics if you like. From what I remember the steering assembly isn't as self-explantatory as it seems, and I improvised with spacers or washers.
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Here's a few pics. OS CZ currently fitted, the last pic is the rather sad-looking GT. I intend on getting a new body shell soon too.
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This is all good information. Heat is the answer here - of course. I understand now what you mean Oz, to remove *one* of the shields, not both! Rubber was what I thought would be more suitable for an airtight seal...
I do need a decent small screwdriver set first - I've been getting by with a cheap watchmakers set for a long time...
Um, not really suitable.
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I haven't yet been able to undo *any* of the screws holding this little engine together, they are tiny button crossheads and I just can't get the leverage with my little screw set. It needs a soak in WD40 or nitro fuel and some screwdrivers with bigger handles I guess... If I ever get them undone, I'm definitely replacing them with hex heads.
Here's a question: If the outer bearing also acts as a crankcase seal, would a universal metal-shielded bearing be sufficient, or are purpose-made OS ones airtight/oiltight?
I really just need to get it apart to diagnose the issue I think.
Tamiya 1/10, I have tried the carb needle on many settings, at the last run it would idle for about 3 seconds then slow down and need a blip of throttle. I noticed it would bog down easily under load as well. I haven't dismantled the carb yet - that could be the issue.
Derv_scaler, I haven't yet looked into how to upload pics - I'll get on it.
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Okay, so I've cheated a bit and bought another engine - an OS Max CZ12 SE with some nice hopups, and on the test bench it ran like a watch.
A really loud, smoky watch, mind you...
I'm still determined to get the GT12 running though! I'll update as and when, cheers guys.
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I got well into the Meteor because of it's good, simple design (copied from the RC10 shh), it's reliability, and it's low budget. Apparently with some clever tuning they could be quite competitive too, though I never raced RC cars. I put a refurbished Technigold motor in mine and have a lot of fun practising jumps.
Whilst the Meteor is discontinued, there are plenty that turn up on a certain auction site, I bought a few and made one good one out of them. They are cheap enough to be able to do this, a really good one isn't more than £30 - £40, and parts go for pennies.
The gearbox is it's weak point - the motor slips out of adjustment and eats the spur gear, which is made of cheese. The standard gearboxes came without ballraces - the shafts just ran in recesses moulded into the casing, and the first thing I did was measure and fit ball bearings. There were two spur gears - one with cutouts for bearings and one, more common plain one, which are fine if you look after them. There is a mod which involves making a metal plate which goes between the motor and gearbox which acts as a strengthener and also a heatsink. That's more if you want to run a really quick motor though - I just modded some washers to fit and spread the load. The shocks are tricky to stop leaking too - use plumber's tape.
The Mardave Cobra came out after the Meteor, and is more developed for racing. I bought an old running chassis and fitted the gearbox to my long-wheelbase Meteor - it almost fits straight in - and was then able to run brushless power. It's huge fun. My Meteors are in my showroom if you're interested.
Sorry about the essay, I'm quite enthusiastic about these buggies:)
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Thanks for the info guys. I've got a few old motorcycles and the first rule when restoring an old stroker is 'change the crankcase seals'. I'm going to get a set of two bearings and change both, once I've managed to get those tiny siezed screws undone... The engine is, I estimate, 20-25 years old, these were fitted to the Sandmaster in the early 90s and I guess my example was pulled from one. It's going to take a while to source some seals and get those screws out - watch this space.
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Hi Cowboy,
Yeah I'm enjoying the smell, the noise, the fumes, the oil over my clothes...! I'm a big fan of the internal combustion engine, and it's really satisfying to work on these little two-strokes.
The Byron fuel is brand new, the Model Technics 4 months or so. Both run in my Irvine 20, in the Marauder.
Does upping the nitro increase the fuel's combustability? Does it increase it's running temp? Maybe I should get a thermometer...
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Hi derv_scaler, thanks for your reply. Any input is helpful!
"A fairly worn out engine should still start and run, but a very worn motor will be a pain to keep going." I think this sums it up nicely, this engine must be 20 years old.
A little more background: I bought this engine and fitted it to a Kyosho Rampage, a late 80s buggy based on the same chassis as the Ford RS200. I went for it because they are reputed as good reliable engines - I wanted something that was keeping in the period, wouldn't be too fussy, and a little quicker than the OS 10 that the Rampage originally came with. Oh, and it was also cheap!
I had it running a little better today with the glow plug (unidentified) it originally came with, but it isn't keen on idling, on any needle setting. I have used silicone around the carb joint to seal against air leaks, and I can't see any blowing around the cylinder head, but there is a small weep of oil from the output shaft - between the bearing and flywheel.
In answer to your questions,
1. The tank is pressuried
2. I am pull starting it, it is turning anti-clockwise
3. Carb looks original, but unsure on it's history. I'll do the richness test tomorrow
I've bought a couple of plugs to try - an Enya #3 and a Taylor, with an idle bar, as an experiment.
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Hi! I finally figured out how to log into the forum! How's it going everyone?
I have a question about an old Kyosho GT-12 glow engine. I've recently started running nitro buggies (you may have seen my Mardave Marauder) and I'm having trouble with setting my engine up.
After a lot of tinkering I've reached a point where I'm not sure what to investigate next. The engine fired and ran fine but after shutting a wide throttle opening the engine would die. I've tried different fuels and glow plugs but it's now at a point where it only runs with the starter on the plug. I fitted an OS no.6, (a hot plug), and have tried Byron Race 20 and Model Technics Qwikfire 16 fuels. Mixture screw is 2.5 - 2.75 turns out. Compression is decent.
My understanding is that the plug is still too cool, but I'm surprised as the OS is labelled as hot. Do I need to go even hotter? Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Chris
Advice request for Irvine 20 glow engine (new carb needed)
in Other makes
Posted
Hey thanks for the suggestions guys.
Ferris, I was thinking about an OS carb because of their reputation for quality, but it was tricky finding out which ones had a 13mm stub. The FSR one wouldn't fit in the Marauder chassis because the main needle assembly would hit the fuel tank.
Oz, I agree with everything you write, and since my first post I have done some more tests.
In short, I think it was an air leak. I had used silicon previously to seal the carb, and I reckon the intense vibration which the Irvine creates shook the carb loose and broke the seal. The o-ring was past it's best, so I replaced that and used plumber's tape around the stub. The improvement is profound.
I have yet to give the Marauder a good run yet, but I'm happier now.