Jump to content

Hudson

Members
  • Content Count

    165
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

39 Excellent

About Hudson

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/11/1975

Profile Information

  • Location
    France

Recent Profile Visitors

1789 profile views
  1. That wheel/tyre combo looks disproportionately large for the buggy - or is the photo deceiving me? The tyres look great, are they 1/10th scale?? I had a good look on the modelsport website - thanks for the link. I must say I find buggy tyres a bit of a minefield!! I mean, all I'm looking for is a cool set of tyres to fit on my buggy, there's no shortage of tyres available, but half the time I'm unsure if they're gonna fit. For example, assuming there's very little technical specification offered can I buy any set of 1/10th buggy tyres and be confident that they will fit my 2.2 Dark Impact (there may be a more accurate name for these wheels?) wheels? Clearly, if they're marked as 2wd, or if they're specific to a buggy (SRB, Frog, Hornet etc) then I realise they won't fit, but all the rest - can I buy them and be sure they'll work?? Maybe I'm being stupid? It's kind of why I posted this thread - I was hoping that someone would give me an easy concrete solution for my wheels specifically so that I could order something without fear of messing up! I can feel myself leaning back towards Tamiya High Density because at least I know they fit properly.......
  2. Ok great, thanks very much for your replies, I think you've cleared everything up for me.......
  3. Hi all, I have a Top Force body (of sorts) that I'm considering putting on my Blazing Star. I reckon the Top Force body is aftermarket (the lexan is too thick and rigid for Tamiya) and a larger part than normal has been cut from the front. I actually really like the way the body sits on the DF01 chassis with all of the front gear box on show. Can anyone confirm that the way this body has been cut out doesn't correspond to any of the Top Force variants? The two raised dimples with holes at the front of the body - what are these for? These holes correspond perfectly to the screw points that fix the front gear box casing, is there a legitimate way of fixing the body using these holes somehow? It seems like too much of a coincidence that the holes are there - I'm wondering if a part/modification exists that can make this work. I do also have the undertray and wing for the Top Force body, all of which, if I can make this work, I will re-paint as I don't like the green so much - though it will be painting on the outside as I'm not committed enough to start stripping paint. Any tips for painting the outside of lexan bodies? This is all getting a bit long winded now! If anyone can help or offer any insight I'd be very grateful. Cheers Stephen
  4. Hi all, I've got a Top Force (sort of!) project on the go and I want to add a cool set of tyres. I'm a bit fed up of Tamiya High Density which has been my 'go to' tyre for a while. I'm looking for something a bit more rally/street looking. I won't run this, I just want it to look cool!! I'm using 2.2 dark Impact black wheels. As you can see from photo I currently have a set of high densitys on the back but I'll be removing these..... Any recommendations? I don't want to break the bank, I'm based in France. Cheers Stephen
  5. Hi everyone, I'm looking for this for my youngest son, they seem to be getting thin on the ground, I can only find XB version online. Plenty of Sand Vipers but I prefer the body of the Gator. UK or France delivery would work......
  6. Just wanted to show my appreciation for this thread, I bought a beaten up Fox recently that just happened to come with 3 Dyna storm hi caps, I was troubled by the lack of bladder oil seal but this thread served as a fantastic reference and eased all my worries.........
  7. I reckon if you lined up Tamiyas first 100 kits NIB and asked a large sample of intelligent people (not Tamiya experts) which one they want the most - the 959 would win. Of course I’m talking about the early release Porsche badge, Rothmans decals version. It’s just so god **** alluring and classy isn’t it? It arguably has the greatest ever Tamiya box art, it’s a Porsche, it’s based on a real car, it has cool original sponsors livery, it has the Technigold. Yeah sure there’s a few kits out there that trump it on collectibility and it had plenty of technical issues but that’s just not the point.......
  8. Maybe Tamiya made a mistake by naming this buggy the Hotshot 2, I mean you can see the sense in 'using' the well established Hotshot name, but maybe this decision counted against it - it was always in the shadow of it's older brother. The 2 buggies have tonnes of similarities so arguably retaining the Hotshot name makes sense, however I believe with a different name with no link to the original Hotshot it would have sold in bigger numbers. Does anyone agree with me??!! In any case, it's a great buggy, perhaps it's had a slight renaissance of late based on its relative scarcity, certainly NIB prices are at the high end.
  9. In pure investment terms I reckon vintage Tamiya NIB is a decent bet, certainly based on the last few years. Having said that - I doubt whether anyone starts buying vintage Tamiya NIB straight off the cuff with only financial gain in mind. For me, I went through a clear evolution of buying old Tamiya stuff, to buying old Tamiya stuff with original box, to buying NIB Tamiya. Essentially, over a ten year period I worked out that the thing I liked the most about vintage Tamiya kits was the box, the box art/packaging/presentation/blisters etc. So, for me, it was a natural progression to start buying NIB stuff. My main criteria for buying is simply getting the kits that I like the most, and this is based almost entirely on creativity/artistic flair, i.e. not replicas of genuine cars but original concept buggies like Fox Falcon etc. I honestly believe that collecting vintage NIB Tamiya kits is a sound investment, and I don't mind admitting that this is a motivating (secondary) factor for me. The million dollar question is whether the market will die an instant death when all of us circa 1970 - 1980 kids start dying off. In any case - we're twenty years away from that and maybe, just maybe, the younger generations will pick up the baton? For me, it'll be interesting to see which kits see the biggest price fluctuation over the next decade or so, I personally feel that the very early Tamiya RC kits now look very dated, although in pure collection terms of course they're still very desirable, and the original boxes remain very appealing, the golden era stuff - Fox Hotshot etc in design terms still feels really fresh, though there's more of these kits floating around which affects value, the re releases impact on the value of original kits too - at least in the short term................
  10. I know I'm going off topic here and I apologise for that. I am genuinely interested to know at what point a 'vintage' car becomes more of a 'cheat' car.
  11. I kind of like the idea of vintage racing having the strictest of rules - i.e. tyres must be vintage, batteries too, and radio gear, no re re parts allowed, no hop ups, I guess the racing would end up being more comical than thrilling!!
  12. But doesn't a vintage RC car in a vintage race need to be actually vintage, i.e. not re release??
  13. I think it's a non tangible spiritual thing, even if every single part has been changed, as long as the owner believes it to be the same model, then it is. I'm with Trigger on this one............
  14. I kind of figured that this was the issue, set up costs are simply too great and demand not sufficient, it's still a bit crazy though that 40 years on and with all the marvels of modern technology, even considering much smaller demand, no one can match the old school Tamiya decals. Is it fair to say that MCI decals are as good as tamiya in terms of stickiness and thickness and durability?
  15. I too would highly recommend MCI. I'm also interested to know why no one has ever been able to replicate the quality of Tamiya originals???
×
×
  • Create New...