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About Hudson

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  • Birthday 06/11/1975

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  1. In pure investment terms I reckon vintage Tamiya NIB is a decent bet, certainly based on the last few years. Having said that - I doubt whether anyone starts buying vintage Tamiya NIB straight off the cuff with only financial gain in mind. For me, I went through a clear evolution of buying old Tamiya stuff, to buying old Tamiya stuff with original box, to buying NIB Tamiya. Essentially, over a ten year period I worked out that the thing I liked the most about vintage Tamiya kits was the box, the box art/packaging/presentation/blisters etc. So, for me, it was a natural progression to start buying NIB stuff. My main criteria for buying is simply getting the kits that I like the most, and this is based almost entirely on creativity/artistic flair, i.e. not replicas of genuine cars but original concept buggies like Fox Falcon etc. I honestly believe that collecting vintage NIB Tamiya kits is a sound investment, and I don't mind admitting that this is a motivating (secondary) factor for me. The million dollar question is whether the market will die an instant death when all of us circa 1970 - 1980 kids start dying off. In any case - we're twenty years away from that and maybe, just maybe, the younger generations will pick up the baton? For me, it'll be interesting to see which kits see the biggest price fluctuation over the next decade or so, I personally feel that the very early Tamiya RC kits now look very dated, although in pure collection terms of course they're still very desirable, and the original boxes remain very appealing, the golden era stuff - Fox Hotshot etc in design terms still feels really fresh, though there's more of these kits floating around which affects value, the re releases impact on the value of original kits too - at least in the short term................
  2. I know I'm going off topic here and I apologise for that. I am genuinely interested to know at what point a 'vintage' car becomes more of a 'cheat' car.
  3. I kind of like the idea of vintage racing having the strictest of rules - i.e. tyres must be vintage, batteries too, and radio gear, no re re parts allowed, no hop ups, I guess the racing would end up being more comical than thrilling!!
  4. But doesn't a vintage RC car in a vintage race need to be actually vintage, i.e. not re release??
  5. I think it's a non tangible spiritual thing, even if every single part has been changed, as long as the owner believes it to be the same model, then it is. I'm with Trigger on this one............
  6. I kind of figured that this was the issue, set up costs are simply too great and demand not sufficient, it's still a bit crazy though that 40 years on and with all the marvels of modern technology, even considering much smaller demand, no one can match the old school Tamiya decals. Is it fair to say that MCI decals are as good as tamiya in terms of stickiness and thickness and durability?
  7. I too would highly recommend MCI. I'm also interested to know why no one has ever been able to replicate the quality of Tamiya originals???
  8. Ok so in the end I went with the Astute shock tower option. I'm pleased with the result. Red CVA's used all round, lot's of travel on all the shocks, the only small issue I need to resolve is the front fixing for the body shell, the body now rests on the new shock tower a few millimetres higher than before so I can't get the snap pin in. I think it's an easy enough fix - I just need to find best option. Thanks to zakspeed for the tip
  9. That sounds like the perfect solution, thanks for the tip. I’ll get busy designing my perfect shock tower.......
  10. I agree, I think matching the colours would be difficult. I’m favouring the graphite tower bolt on option. Actually having inspected the Astute shock tower it’s more or less identical in height to the stock Bear Hawk one. Of course I could bolt the Astute tower on to the original in a higher position but I do also want to keep in mind the aesthetics! I’m getting fussy now I know but can anyone think of a graphite option with more height? Dayna Storm probably too big?
  11. Funnily enough I'd been eyeing up the Astute tower as a possible option. Thanks for advice.
  12. This isn't gonna work for me because the plastic reservoir part is too long, if I shorten the piston (with loads of spacers) to create the right length shock, there's just no travel left at all on the shock (if that makes sense!). I basically need a more drastic solution.
  13. Hi all, I have a nice Bear Hawk that I'm restoring and I want to replace the original shocks with red tamiya cva shocks (Hot Shot 2 Supe Sabre), I just happen to have these and of course the colour is true to the original so it feels like a nice solution. The obvious problem is that the replacement shocks are a fair bit longer than the originals (fronts) so the only sensible solution is to increase the shock tower height by 15mm or so. Has anyone ever done this or have any ideas. Is there a bolt on replacement or a known modification? This is not my area of expertise but looking at it I feel that it can't be too tricky!! Cheers Stephen
  14. For me - all metal parts in an old jam jar with lid soaked in 1 inch of degreaser for 24hrs, then into another jam jar with 1 inch of wd40 for another 24hrs and hey presto, maybe for really dirty screws etc the toothbrush needs to come out. Has anyone ever worked out definitively the pro's and con's of an ultrasonic cleaner??? I have one and I've had mixed results - I'm pretty sure it strips the gold coating off vintage Tamiya screws, though amazing (from memory) on rusty damper springs.
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