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gearheadwilly

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Everything posted by gearheadwilly

  1. I've been able to locate most of the commonly broken parts, but I'm pretty sure I need trans parts. Possibly just a failed bearing but feels a bit worse. Haven't had it apart yet and those parts seem to be hard to come by. I've heard some people use the associated trans as a replacement. Bit of mod work to do that so hopefully I can repair the original kyosho trans. I have an old nitro rustler I could run but it's in great shape so I don't bring it out to the track as much. Looking forward to an electric buggy type car for track use.
  2. Kyosho is an electric ultima st. Roller with a motor. Don't really know much about Kyosho never had any. I've always heard they make a good rc car though. I need a "normal" buggy because my son and I turned my old rc10gt Blue chassis into a speed car last year so I've been running my 3 terra crushers (all brushless converted) 1stock tnx, 1 stock tnx 5.2r and 1 brushless nitrage at the track. These are loads of fun but nothing handles like a buggy on these little short dirt tracks around here. The little slash's and the like just flat out handle me every time. The nitrage on 4s is a blast and basically keeps up but it's 1/8 scale so the turning radius is the downfall on tight tracks. Hopefully the kyosho fills the void left behind from my beloved rc10gt. On a side note the gt project is moving along nicely, goal is 100mph on 2s (probably not going to happen) but nonetheless we've managed to get it up to 78mph on 2s with some room for improvement still to go. We here in Indiana are dealing with winter now so that projects shelved until spring.
  3. Great score! You ever think about buying a lottery ticket? Haha. Mrc is an abbreviation for model rectifier corporation. My rough but still living original boxes both have Mrc stickers on them. I think, they bought these as "suitable for radio control" kits and installed their radio gear and electronics before selling them to the public or just sold you electronics when you bought your unassembled kit if you wanted to diy. No doubt someone on here has more details on this, tons of knowledge here. Definitely keep us posted on the restoration progress.
  4. Thanks. Absolutely a wealth of knowledge and experience on here. Should I leave the original decal sheets intact as they are or clean the cars and apply they decals as they appear on their respective boxes? Original builder only used a few on the cars, but they are placed correctly. Also should I leave they wizard unpainted? I believe I have all the original radio gear and servos, etc to put both cars back as they were originally built, is that what I should focus on? These 2 were part of a package deal with an old kyosho, a testors powered model plane from 1970, a dealership promo wired "remote" car from 1954 and a few new giant plane motors from way back. Also a brand new rustler body and Stampede body. Scored it all for $40. So I'm knee deep in projects right now. Lol. I'll wrap the tamiyas up and dive into the rest.
  5. Lambo rear wheel measures 33.6mm tall in the center, 39.8 wide. Lambo rear tire is 52mm tall and 38 wide. Stands to reason it would be a shame to use the new motor and speed control also? Is it better to just get over it and assemble the old girl and shelve it? No doubt a great conversation peice when friends are over. If it's just too rare or valuable (headache) to run at least it pretty to look at! What would be a guesstimate on value for this old stuff? I've seen prices all over the board online for these parts and cars. I never sell, but good to know what you have.
  6. I'll keep an eye out for replacement tires. Thanks. All these tires were off the wheels and in labeled zip loc bags when I bought this stuff. Except the new in box lambo fronts. I couldn't believe how flexible and supple they were when I mounted them. I can flatten them and they spring right back up like rubber. No cracking when I smash any of them flat while unmounted. Should I skip even trying to run these tires, just wait until I can find replacement foams? Thanks. My only experience with foams are my teenage years with slot cars.
  7. Thankfully the lambo has new fronts and came with 4 rears that are all soft and completely usable, 2 of the rears look nearly new. And the wizard tires are the same, great shape and very soft no cracks or hard spots. These cars must have been stored well all these years. If I only run a few times a year these tires should last a long time. I've noticed hub difference between the 2 cars so not sure about using wizard era parts to rebuild the lambo. Looks like I could cut a wizard axle down a bit, use stock wizard diff and hubs if I use wizard wheels in the rear. Or modify the worse of my lambo rear sets to fit the wizard hubs. Definitely some research to do.
  8. Forgot to attach these. The aforementioned road wizard. Stickered but unpainted. Not sure I like that, but I can live with it. Came with lrp f1 esc and the original receiver with metal antenna mast, I swapped in an old traxxas just to test with.
  9. Just picked up a lamborghini countach 58008 and a road wizard cheap on a local site. Both came with original boxes and a box of extras and nib parts and original sticker sheets even the original kraft radio gear from back in the day. The road wizard just needed cleaned up and it's ready to go, turns out to be near mint and works flawlessly. My question is more towards the lambo, it's a basket case with a few important parts M.I.A. (axle, diff, hubs) but to the positive it did come with a nib rx540sd, nib mechanical speed control and nib wheels/tires and a martini porsche 936 body. If I build the car using the new extremely hard to find parts, it'll turn into a shelf queen when I'd actually like to run it at the carpet track a few times a year just for fun, no competition stuff. Or should I use more modern parts with zero modifications to the original car? I was thinking my old Novak esc and a fresh but tame brushed 19t? mabey even 27t? Or should I dare to run the vintage nib rx540sd? Since I don't forsee selling it and would never consider cutting it up or modification beyond bolt on, plug and play type changes. This would keep the value because I could always return it to stock and would allow me to enjoy this old beauty on occasion. Basically should I restore and just deal with having a couple cars I never run or risk it and run it like it was ment to be run? What should I do with them? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  10. Looks like a great score. Body looks like new. Perfect candidate! Goodbye F.R.A.T.! Keep us posted and if you need anything let me know.
  11. Any other pics or info on how this worked out? I have an old KC and would love to be able to adapt some leftovers from my rc10gt brushless converted speed run car if possible.
  12. Thanks. Enjoy them and give us updates periodically whenever you get time to work on them. I'm excited to see how someone else's interpretation works out. I've wanted a Wild Commando to work this Magic on for a long time, 350z Crusher would be fun too. You gotta collect the whole set.......right? Lol.
  13. Careful, that's how it's started for me. Somehow it led to me "needing" lots of them! Last I checked ebay had a red Terra Crusher for $100 usd plus shipping. Decent shape, original body and the normal transmission issues if I remember correctly. I've seen them sell cheaper recently and parts lots go real cheap usually.
  14. Thanks. They are great bashers and when you get bored on land, bolt on jumbo kongs and float/drive across creeks and ponds. Also a blast at the local track when everyone is trying to guess what it is. Loads of fun all the way around.
  15. Its posted in the build threads, probably not the best build thread ever but the information is out there and I'll answer any questions and help in any way I can. Thanks for your help to hopefully save a few of these trucks.
  16. A couple members asked me to post a build thread on this, I've never been a post stuff kinda guy (ever) but I strongly believe that these trucks are over looked and underrated by most in our hobby so if I can help to change that common misconception and mabey help put a few more of these monsters back on or off the road im down to try. The Terra Crusher and TNX are great platforms to build from. Always pretty cheap on eBay or Craigslist, always have transmission and or engine issues both of witch don't matter since your going electric with a modern, current model transmission that is tough as nails. Some will say parts are hard to find but I've built 3 of these trucks just this year alone. Stock replacement parts are available, some through Tamiya some on eBay. Some upgrades are hard to find but with some digging I've managed to find everything I've needed to complete my projects. Start by removing all nitro associated components from your truck including the transmission you can reuse the driveshafts and roll bar. Leave the mechanical box but remove the throttle servo, linkages etc. Perfect time to throughly clean and inspect the entire truck. The parts I used with part numbers are listed below. You can use whatever parts you think will work best but this works great for me. Traxxas 3908 heavy duty brushless emaxx/erevo transmission Traxxas 3908 motor mount kit with clutch,68t spur, cover etc Duratrax dtxc6202 battery tray with velcro straps Integy dual fan heatsink combo c23139blue Castle 3800kv 4 pole race motor with Castle SCT ESC 1/10 scale 540 size motor. I've found that crawling and short course pinion size 10t-12t on 3s lipo and around 16t-18t pinions for hauling the mail on 3s lipo power. Heat starts to become an issue at 18t on 3s but good fans and a smart trigger finger help that a bunch. You will also need some material to make these plates from, they are just flat pieces of whatever correct thickness material with holes strategically drilled in them. What could possibly go wrong....... Right? The plates pictured are big, blocky and ugly but very much functional, you could trim them down way smaller than these. Most of the recent ones I've made are a bit easier on the eye but these in the pics are my original "R&D" set. Lol I made my transmission plates from scrap carbon fiber because that's what I had laying around. You could use plastic, wood, steel, aluminum, titanium, moon rock or platinum if you want to get fancy. You'll have some trial and error with the Dremel making these pieces fit tight against the transmission. I used all factory Tamiya bolt holes for my plates to chassis mounting but I did relocate my rollbar rearward about an inch to clear the plates on the chassis. Use nylon lock nuts on everything. You'll need various pieces of hardware for mounting all this together I can measure what I've used (just dug through my old hardware bin until it worked) if anyone needs specific lengths. I fitted and secured my plates to the completely assembled Traxxas transmission with motor, clutch and cover installed to be sure everything is going to have room to breathe when assembled and then installed the assembly checking fitment and alignment repeatedly before clamping the plates to the chassis very tight and flipping the truck over to drill the plate to chassis mounting holes from the bottom through the original tamiya transmission mounting holes. After drilling these holes install hardware and secure the transmission. The 3rd hole in each plate towards the outer edge of the chassis requires removal of the frame rails to drill from the bottom through the original hole in the chassis. You will have to enlarge (just a little) the cross holes of the main shaft of the new transmission if you building a TNX or if your upgrading from universal type Terra Crusher driveshafts to the TNX dogbone type driveshafts. The Terra Crusher universal type fit perfectly with absolutely zero modification. For the battery tray I used 4 counter sink type screws with washers to let them mount pretty much flush but I still use a thin rubber pad (cut up bicycle inner tube) under my battery. I use cheap redcat 2.4g dsm TX&RX and the trucks will go further than I can safely see to drive. I cut rough rectangles of scrap carbon fiber 80mm by 42mm by 14mm thick for terra crusher universal type driveshafts, 8.5mm thick for TNX style dogbones driveshafts. Proper thickness on the plates is of the utmost importance. Especially on the terra crusher style shafts. NOTE that these trucks do have a small amount of adjustment for diff pinion angle on the bulkheads if you need it. At the thicknesses Ive given you should be able to use the factory diff pinion angle setting. I used some nuts as spacers under my much thinner TNX plates while testing to find the best thickness plates for the terra crusher style shafts, the titanium GPM upgraded driveshafts on eBay are pretty good but for my bashing style I prefer the TNX style shafts so I eventually switched all my trucks to those type. Alignment and centering of the transmission is critical, you'll notice I have 2 sets of plate to chassis mounting holes in this set of plates ones is for crusher style shafts the other set of holes is for tnx style shafts. For terra crusher type driveshafts you need to make sure neither driveshaft is bottomed out in their respective diff/pinion gear. Both shafts should have equal travel (centered) between the diffs. For TNX type cup/dogbone style you'll want the dogbones centered in their respective cups (all 4 of them) before drilling your plate to chassis mounting holes. I actually put a very small thin peice of rubber inside the cups before I install the dogbones to help keep the dogbone from sliding all the way forward or rearward. The bones still have a few mm of slide if done correctly. I think it will prolong Driveline component life, haven't had an issue yet. Depending on what shafts you use you might have to "clearance" the original tamiya transmission hole (not the mounting holes) to give room to access the plate to trans mounting screws from the bottom nothing structural just making a little room. Dremel works great with a small sanding drum attachment. I put my esc in the mechanical box without the mech box cover at first and tested with it on and off made no real difference in esc heat so I run it with the cover on and my redcat receiver is in a balloon sealed with silicone. I used urethane conformal coating on the esc circuit board and receiver circuit board but better safe than sorry when your driving across a pond right? Zero issues with any electronics since coating them, works great. This truck has a futaba 805bb duel ball bearing steering servo for the small local dirt track. Much quicker steering. I run a zippy 6.6v LiFe receiver pack (not pictured) on this truck now. The last picture is just of my bone stock TNX to illustrate the difference between the shafts. Both the F.R.A.T transmission and the later model non-reverse TNX transmissions basically share a common transmission main shaft so only difference is the cross hole that secures the cup on the TNX transmission is a little bigger. Very carefully drill those holes to 3mm on your new traxxas transmission main shaft ONLY IF YOU ARE USING TNX DOGBONE TYPE DRIVESHAFTS. Im sure I've missed something but hey it's my first thread ever. I'll happily answer any questions or post any other pics you might need. I saved all the part numbers for these builds as well as the numbers from my all aluminum crusher with 5.2r dogbone axle conversion and TNX dogbone driveshaft conversion, zerol bevel diff gears and aluminum servo saver horn. Also for the pivot ball suspension conversion. Currently working on fine tuning one piece aluminum chassis plates for Crushers. Can't find any so I'm making a few. Some with original giant 1/4 scale steering servo mounts and some with the regular 10th steering servo scale like the TNX came with.
  17. Thanks. Nice fleet Nitomor. I wrote most of it last night I'll add pics and some more details today and hopefully have it posted tonight or tomorrow morning. I'm actually running a 1/10 Scale 540 size motor, castle 3800kv 4pole race motor (torque monster) with a castle SCT esc with a 3s battery its more power than I'll ever need. You could use an eighth scale motor but honestly it's not necessary. If anyone is in my area and wants to see for themselves I'd be happy to facilitate a "test drive" Lol.
  18. How would one go about doing such a thing? I'm not very versed in forum protocol. I'd be happy to show how I've done it.
  19. Something to consider is that if you install good brushless power with all stock terra crusher parts you will eventually break plastic axles witch are easily available or upgraded with 5.2r steel dogbone axle setup. Also the aluminum diff gears are a weak point, replacement aluminum diff gears are available through Tamiya or upgraded buy installing tnx steel diff gears available new online with a bit of digging or used diffs sell cheap on eBay when they come up. I've bought several diffs used and all have been in great shape. I have part numbers for the upgrades if you go that route.
  20. Nitomor I don't have a build thread or anything like that but I do have pics and measurements etc. Transmission that I use is a current model from eBay brand new for $50 another $25 for motor mount including clutch, spur cover etc. I make carbon fiber transmission adapter plates on mine. The stock terra crusher universal type driveshafts fit perfectly. Tnx dogbone driveshafts require a little extra work but nothing crazy. Add your choice of electronics and its a beast. I've had a couple people ask for me too build these for them and they are extremely happy with the results. Pm for more details/info.
  21. I recommend urethane conformal coating on your electronics and good quality marine grease in your diffs and trans. Also wash it off with clean water as soon as your out of the nasty creek or pond water as rust sets in quickly! These trucks are fairly cheap on eBay, usually transmission and or engine issues both of witch don't matter if your going electric. Great platform to build your dream machine. Quite a few parts are still available from Tamiya. Others on eBay etc. My aluminum truck literally has parts from all over the world, I enjoy the hunt for a supposedly impossible to find part. That to me makes finding it eventually feel all that much more victorious.
  22. My opinion is if you want a wicked looking monster truck that you can really bash, it's as simple as building a brushless Terra Crusher or TNX. Ditch the stock Tamiya trans in favor of a current model trans(nearly a direct fit). High torque castle motor esc combo, and a set of jumbo kong wheels/tires, TNX 5.2r axle setup, zerol bevel gear diffs, upgraded servo. 3s 6000 mah lipo Now that's a monster. I've built 3 of these this year and can attest to the durability if done correctly. I own a couple stock nitro versions as well and the electric conversion trucks outrun their nitro counterparts everytime. I've driven the Terra Crusher on kongs across several big creeks and good sized ponds, yes it floats it's a blast. I built a short course version for a local "electric only" dirt track it's surprisingly competitive for a big truck on a very small track. Also did an almost all aluminum version that weighs 18.6lbs with the jumbo kongs. It's as fun to bash as the others but clean up is time consuming. Sorry for the long reply but these trucks are underrated and overlooked by most people but they are a great platform to work with and with a little digging parts are available. More importantly I doubt your going to line up next to another one......ever. Having a unique truck that is "built not bought" is worth all the time and money.
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