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About ChrisRx718

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  1. Yeah PS-31 smoke is very tricky, because it darkens as it dries. This means that when you apply it, you can't see it. It's like you've applied a fine varnish. It can also mean getting consistency across a large bodyshell is...problematic! Really light coats and I would add to what @OnTheTrail says and leave 20 minutes between 'coats' as this will give you a better idea of the amount of tint... It's very stressful, especially if you have an expensive bodyshell! To make matters worse, and I've found this with all Tamiya translucent paints, if you apply them too thick they 'attack' existing paint finishes
  2. It may look it, but it's actually really straightforward just with an odd appearance. The whole diff assembly and motor mount are two separate units and you simply rotate them / insert them at either end of the chassis to determine the driven wheels. The worst part I can see about the MB-01 at the moment is the suspended steering assembly. Instead of it being mounted directly to the chassis, it "hangs" from a cantilevered piece of plastic (which has mouldings to replicate a double-overhead-cam engine cover) which is itself bolted to the front bulkhead, with only two screws. The whole thing is quite...floppy. I can't see how even a metal Hop-up would rectify it. This very same piece of plastic can be seen in images of the BT-01, suggesting an identical steering arrangement, which is bad news. Part is "D5", see how it 'interlocks' (very loosely) with the suspension tower and is bolted to the front bulkhead.
  3. Saw this earlier courtesy of Tamiyablog. Can't say I'm excited about this release! Seems to share a lot of parts with the MB-01, in fact it's really just a scaled-up MB-01. My experience thus far has not been great with that chassis...
  4. Very cool @technics, although I'm not sure it'll be easy to replicate the bonnet scoop of the Cooper S... Tamiya made the OG 5-spoke "Spider" wheels in a Ltd edition white moulding. They would look pretty cool I saw some for sale on Yahoo auctions, but they had yellowed so would need some work. I would have bought them but I couldn't find the bodyset, so fair play to you!
  5. Tamiya themselves of course made a couple of Dakar style bodies for the CC01 in the form of: -57701/58602 Mitsubishi Pajero Rally -58324 Volkswagen Race Touareg I think you're addressing many of the common issues but as a 4x CC-01 owner I think your biggest issue to overcome will be the steering. The thru-chassis steering post and connecting mess which is the stock mechanism is wholly unsuitable and prone to both slop, limited angle and doing the weird "chassis wiggle" in reverse. Aftermarket options help, but they're not without their limitations...
  6. Not a Supra but another iconic Tamiya. This Supra lined up on the grid alongside the Taisan Starcard Porsche 911 GT2. Justified getting one of those to sit next to it, right?!
  7. Can you get a Just Stop Oil banner and put it up behind these on display? Love them all, very cool. I'm biased because the 2000 Castrol Supra was my first ever Tamiya but I do like them both. I feel like anyone who gets one of these Supra's needs the other very special TA02 of a car which ran alongside this in the '95 season...
  8. You have to be prepared to spend a lot more than you would expect unfortunately. J Parts occasionally come up on Japanese Auction sites, try a proxy bidding platform like Buyee.com I can't recall seeing K-parts sold separately in forever. It'll probably be easier tracking down a TA03 FRP conversion kit complete to source both the items you need! Good luck
  9. I personally find 2WD far more entertaining to just drive around a dusty car park or back garden. 4WD is incredibly capable, but less rewarding unless it's a very loose surface - and the speeds tend to be higher with 4WD, which means crashes are far more frequent and there's more momentum carried-through. I get where you're coming from though - it's an expensive endeavour for some fairly mediocre (yet nostalgic) performance. I didn't bother fitting a slipper clutch, I much prefer the ability to wheel spin it with a stab of throttle mid-corner and I'm worried that a clutch would counteract the torque? I don't know. I know they're geared at those who regularly jump the car so as not to damage the rest of the drivetrain with gear lash. I don't think I could sell mine, mainly cos I don't know what I'd replace it with. I love how my FAV drives and I was really looking for a more capable / modern version and I think that's the role the BBX fulfills. FAV feels heavy and fragile but the BBX, though it exhibits similar driving traits, feels a lot stronger.
  10. Update time... For the drivetrain I'm using Yeah Racing M-chassis universals. I understand these used to have a bad name in the racing community, but I'm not planning on racing and these are much nicer and easier to obtain than metal dogbones - and much, much nicer than the kit standard plastic drivetrain parts! Aluminium clamp hexes - of course. We spared no expense (though we probably should have) Starting to look like a car now. A big plastic brick of a car, but hey... Instead of the kit-standard "Big Plastic Washer and Screw" assembly for the king pins, I've used cone washers on the top side and countersunk washers on the underside. I've no idea if this will be of benefit, but it sure is more Blue Metal Balls! As I said above; unfortunately I couldn't get hold of the Tamiya ones at time of building so I'm running these Xtra Speed equivalents. They seem to fit fine. Finally the extra 4x 1050 bearings for the front arrived: I'm also going to use the M-chassis wheel axles which came in my BB-01 BBX. I think these are steel - not that it matters much, I just didn't want to use the stock plastic ones. But we have a problem: Despite running 55 OD M-chassis tyres (53215) the wheel-arch cut-outs on the little Toyota MR-S body were still really tight for the overall wheel diameter. Not helped by the chassis itself being rather wide: Not ideal. I managed to shave a few millimetres using these: It was an improvement, but it wasn't enough for me to retain the Toyota body. More on that in a bit. Dampers - I went with TT02 CVA dampers, tempted as I was to go really overkill with some alloy dampers this little chassis just didn't deserve them, the more I built the more head-scratching I was doing. Maybe those early reviewers were right to pan the MB-01 after all I did perhaps spoil it a bit by using some Ltd Edition "Milky Blue" on road springs. They're actually a bit too stiff for this chassis, I'll likely change them for something softer after the first shake down. Steering next: A basic Savox metal-geared digital servo, TT-02 servo saver and a turnbuckle intended for the M-05 / 06. Hmmm. Plastic fantastic. The manual advises some little plastic bushings which are on one of the parts trees for this bit, but 850 bearings are a direct fit. The steering assembly 'bulkhead' is a Yeah Racing product. All assembled. I also used (wasted) M-05 Low-friction King Pins on this steering assembly - the supplied king pins are made out of the softest metal known to mankind. Even using the correct Tamiya medium JIS driver, the heads just wanted to become mush. So I had to resort to using these king pins before I made a real mess of things. The amount of slop is not acceptable, even in the plastic parts, you expect better. Ran out of picture space, I'll have to make another post...
  11. Fun build - I don't get involved in anything serious / proper, I haven't the time I'm building an MF-01X with Yaris GR body but I may donate the body to this, or go with something from L&L models as they have plenty of choice in 210 & 225mm wheelbases. A modern WRC car might be pretty neat.
  12. Please say that's PS-15 metallic red? @technics I've also chosen that paint for mine. I promise I'm not just copying your every move by the way I've owned the paint and the body for over a year. Still haven't got around to spraying it
  13. I should point out that the TT02 and MB-01 share no resemblance in terms of motor mount, hole positions or even stock gearing. The MB-01 uses a unique spur gear (65T) vs. TT02 (70T). TT02 I think comes with a 22T pinion, MB-01 is 29T, all 0.6 mod. I quoted The RC Racer as I had used @qatmix's guide to plan ahead and buy some parts for my TT02 build, but by sheer coincidence they fit the MB-01 chassis and the spur I purchased fit inside the gearbox cover too.
  14. Little trip to Redfin models today. I needed a servo for the MB-01 as I used what I had intended for it in my 2nd M-05 build. Also picked up some new XT60 connectors, a wee LiPo bag and a servo for an upcoming MF-01X build... Talking of the MF-01X build, here courtesy of Craftcloud (significantly cheaper than Shapeways) printed in PETG, are the parts as-designed by our very own @Honza Like others, I probably would have changed strategy if the XM-01 had been announced just a few weeks prior. I've already bought all I need however, so I will continue!
  15. Pre-ordered mine today. I saw from the distributors website what the cost price is expected to be I probably shouldn't put it online. Lots of hop-ups to purchase in the meantime!
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