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About ChrisRx718

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  1. If you're familiar with the TA02 then this thread probably isn't for you; I've tried to document as much of the build process as possible! I consider myself a bit of a TA03 aficionado - at one stage owning 5 and many parts. I've calmed down since then and my collection consists of only 2. I had never given the TA02 second-glance, it looked far simpler than the TA03 and I didn't "get" the affection for them on these forums. That all changed when I saw the 2018 release of 47321 "Porsche 911 GT2 Racing" in 2016. At the time kits were plentiful and at one stage I recall them being on sale for as little as €120 from the likes of Tamico. Around this time, I was going through a difficult period in my personal life, then subsequently a much happier time welcoming my 3rd child into the world. Fast forward 10 months and suddenly all these kits have disappeared, with them likely having been discontinued by Tamiya There was only one thing for it; I was going to have to commit financial suicide and build one out of bits! That earlier simplicity I criticised it for helped me here - it's actually quite easy to buy all the parts to build a TA02. What makes it harder is insisting on a specific colour / spec. If I was building one it was going to cost around £200 in parts. I therefore wanted to get the best value for money; I also wanted silver gearboxes and carbon fibre chassis plates. So the question- "Can you build a TA-02SW from parts alone?" is yes. However "Should you build a TA-02SW from parts alone?" probably not. You'd do better to buy a fixer-upper kit if you can find one used! Here's what the 'bones' of it all looks like, after you have sourced parts from all around the world: Obviously the above is minus wheels, tyres, body and stickers. There wasn't enough room I am not going to sit and add up what this cost. Suffice to say, I had to buy my wife some new GHD's recently and I think I got off lightly! Going to start with the most controversial steps, and I know some of you aficionados will be 'Triggered' by the following images. But I couldn't afford a period motor, so... Take one Trinity Euro Tech Modified Motor (15T) and a sticker from MCI Racing. Soak Trinity motor in vegetable oil to get the sticker and adhesive to come off: Job's a Good'un as they say. Next I'll start building the actual chassis...
  2. Not on this forum I hope? I know those Facebook groups are full of all walks of life, some of which aren't very pleasant. Looks neat and tidy, even if the weight distribution might make steering it a bit 'interesting'!
  3. How similar is the XV01 bulkhead? In the manuals it looks similar, but I can't compare (yet). The other issue is clearance, I know @ThunderDragonCy has a great thread on his 4GR conversion, this showed just how little space there is for clearance between steering tie-rod, suspension push-rod and upper link. Would a traditional damper body even fit in place of the suspension push-rod? Looks tight.
  4. I know it's not what you want to hear, but have you considered using a tyre paint pen? They're designed to go on rubber without degrading it. I hunted for years and years for a Blue drive belt for a TA03F I built (Tamiya 49102). I eventually found one for £25 which seemed reasonable to me at the time, but as soon as you take them out of their plastic (note they include silica gel packets in the packaging) and actually used the car the blue wore out / faded. Now you can hardly tell it was a blue belt The finish is almost temporary, why not just do what they do in the factory and give it a lick of paint?
  5. Yessss! At last the postman delivers. Played a blinder too - the wife has just gone out So what have I ordered? MST wheels and tyres, the wheels are for my Castrol Supra build TT01 propshaft and TT01E A Parts - I had enough other 'bits' to build an entire chassis so why not?! DF02 Springs... Waited so long for these I actually bought entirely different dampers M-06 steering set - replaces the awful Jaz Rider setup which didn't even come with all the parts required to fit! DF03 wheels for upcoming "Project Triggered" TL01 body posts to fit my Amarok to my WR01
  6. This is set up to 236mm but the plates are Yeah Racing. Very impressed with the quality / finish of them, half the price of the Tamiya ones and then some!
  7. Saturday night, pubs reopen - yay! Although I'm harbouring a horsefly bite which I got on Wednesday, so my mobility is that of a pirate before getting the wooden prosthetic (I have a sever reaction) So instead I built a TA02SW from parts and took lots of pictures along the way, so I'll post a project thread when I get around to it!
  8. Has the TNS basically have TL01LA suspension? Looks mighty similar.
  9. The render looks really promising huh. 239mm wheelbase, I might finally have some use for my M06. Their Civic EG hatch shell looks fantastic, but is priced higher than the Tamiya one, which is a bit hard to swallow. In the end I couldn't find any stock of the Civic and ended up buying a Scirocco shell instead. Interesting what you say about the quality, just wish the price point was a bit more palatable. Tamico seem to be the nearest retailer selling MST stuff, and they're always a bit behind the Far Eastern shops. Do you know of any other sources in Europe @Mokei Kagaku?
  10. MST are making an M-chassis sized Alpine for release in Q4 this year. I think it was going to be a 225mm wheelbase, can't quite remember- it will be somewhere on their Facebook page...
  11. Which version of the R35 body did you order? Tamiya make 3. Super GT (Motul, Calsonic, Xanavi) Sumo Power GT-R Road-going GT-R (also used on Motul Nismo) I think the Sumo Power version will match most closely and the rear wing isn't too dissimilar already. Alternatively you could look at wing sets from Yokomo, as these tend to be more 'scale' (typically for drift cars) As for custom stickers, that's going to be a custom job likely, best bet is to find high-resolution versions of the logo's which make up the sponsors, scale them onto a printable sheet and send to the likes of ScreenPrintDigital in the UK or someone similar. The wheels - closest you will get sticking with Tamiya will be the 53453 Med-Narrow 6 Spoke +2 offset in black. I think the wheels are Advan Racing RG of some sort. A US company made some licensed RC versions of these about 5-6 years ago but I can't see that anyone has stock. Yokomo make the Advan RZ which is similar but may not suit your tastes.
  12. I assume as you're stating you will be acting as importer are you therefore VAT registered? I'm sure this will be required for the invoicing of deposits etc. I would be interested in prices on many of the above models, I also assume this is all above board with the UK license holder for Tamiya; The Hobby Company Limited? If the above is all true I look forward to hearing from you. If it's not, you may want to consider your wording of the above post particularly as it is traceable back through this forum.
  13. M-chassis will all be too narrow also - even if you fit wider / taller wheels, the chassis is physically narrower. Even the 'L' configuration of an M-chassis will be too short @ 239mm. The only 'proper' rwd 257mm Tamiya platform is the F103GT, which is neither cheap nor practical for what you want. Motor-on-axle and more akin to a pan car with the ground clearance of a fag paper! Best solution is a TT02 / TT01. I prefer the TT01E to all of them in terms of least slop tolerance, but always bear in mind that these are entry level chassis and will never be 'great' so go in open minded and don't throw unnecessary money at it! Either chassis can be easily converted to RWD only by means of removing the front dogbones and diff output shafts. The front diff has to remain due to the design of the propshaft / spur arrangement on this chassis. Your propshaft will still spin of course, but the diff in the front won't be connected. A front one-way tube for a TT01 can also work as @Mad Ax suggests, but it's not great value for money, even aftermarket. Consider keeping the 4WD system active but just locking the rear diff with blue-tac or similar to get the rearward bias. The 4WD will make it much easier to drive in any event whilst still capable of epic slides and doughnuts. A 4WD chassis converted to RWD only never really works unless it's a specialist drift conversion package, even then it won't perform as well as a chassis designed to be RWD from the outset.
  14. I forgot to mention in my previous post about the diff - originally I locked mine and whilst it made it predictable, it also made it very much want to spin out all the time even under modest acceleration. I changed it to a bit of diff putty (basically expensive blu-tac) so it worked as it should but is a bit stickier than just having grease in there. I can drive the truck much faster now and I get wheelies instead of wheelspin.
  15. My postman still hasn't delivered any of my parcels from the Far East this week So as a touch of retail therapy I visited my local hobby shop, now relocated within walking distance of my house (!!!) And bought these for my upcoming DF02 restoration: Never heard of Helion RC before but they have some pretty decent reviews online. Dampers are "big bore" allegedly and have dust seals. Particularly like the dual springs on the larger dampers, very cool. And then went ahead and spent £100 over at Asiatees which I suspect will take weeks to turn up too...
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