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smegs

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Posts posted by smegs

  1. Anaerobic Gel Thread Lock

    Item #54032

    Tamiya is now releasing a new easily applied screw lock gel for helping in the prevention of looseness in metal parts in R/C vehicles. It can also be applied on chassis' as well engines.

    Liquid Thread Lock - X7329

    Item #87004

    This is Thread Locking Compound from Tamiya. Must be used on metal or steel items, not plastic. Do Not use this on plastic, as it will melt the plastic! Color is blue. Apply thread lock to the threads before installing. Prevents the screws from working loose,which will happen if it is not used. It is very effective and easy to use. Screws can be loosened or removed for maintenance by using about twice the force required when they were originally tightened.

    I noticed that there are at least 5 different greases:

    AW grease

    Cera-grease HG

    Molybdenum

    VG Cup and joint

    Ceramic grease

    What specific Tamiya applications would these different greases be used on?

    Molybdenum Grease

    Item #87022

    Lithium is the base material in the grease, moly is an additive in the grease. Molybdenum disulfide is a dark gray powder that is very hard and very slippery. Moly is excellent for slow moving, heavily loaded points. This grease is suitable for gears and moving parts in mechanical operations. It maintains its viscosity over a wide temperature range, reduces friction, and has molybdenum properties that cover the entire surface well. Use moly-additized grease on the sliding spline on the driveshaft. Moly can contain abrasive particles that can damage needle, ball, or roller bearings.

    Ceramic Grease

    Item #87025(DISCONTINUED)

    This grease is formulated using Boron Nitride particles, and is ideal for use on electric powered R/C vehicles. It should be applied to all bearings, shafts, and gears. It maintains it's viscosity throughout a wide temperature range.

    Cera Grease HG

    Item #87099

    This Cera-grease HG is made using Boron Nitride which gives it superior lubrication ability. Cera-grease can be used with MINI 4WD cars, R/C Cars, Robocraft gears and bearings, and provide excellent lubrication for plastic and metal parts.

    RC Anti-Wear Grease

    Item #53439

    The potential of this grease has been race proven as one of the valuable components of the TRF414 chassis, greatly reducing friction between moving parts. High viscosity grease ideal for use on differential gears.

    RC VG Joint/Cup Grease

    Item #42128

    This new Joint & Cup grease is best suited to fast moving parts. It assists in preventing wear and tear on parts. Other types of grease which have been used in the past tend to dry up and cause stiffening. With the new grease, there are no drying up and stiffening effects making this the grease to have for fast moving parts. The grease is a blue color.

  2. great attitude by the importer.. i love tamiya also. i just bought myself a TRF201. i got it in japan when i was there. tamiya is huge in japan of course. i buy all the spare parts on line.

    a) because i can get exactly what i want, when i want, and not comprimise.

    B ) its always significantly cheaper

    c) it comes to my door..saves me going to the hobby shop.

    I know the prolbem to the hobby store I went too in Upland California called Pegasus Hobbies usto have tons of Tamiya stuff now, there stores shelves are empty. and have HPI and other brands. The only brand I trusted is TAmiya they make the best looking and models on the planet. I got my SRB because of the re realease.

  3. You can do pretty much anything you want as long as you have the cell in series. Since you're never going to be putting it on a discharge tray it really doesn't matter which way you put the leads to the connector.

    I made the pack pictured below from an old 6-cell. Could have just pulled one cell off the end and put it on top but would have had to re-solder 3 of the bars instead of just one.

    IMG_0686.JPG

    IMG_0685.JPG

    Thank you so much. Yea, I made my first pack. So time to go bashing.

  4. I'd highly recommend getting a BEC circuit between the Tamiya ESC (both the 101 and 104) and your receiver.

    The Tamiya 101 and 104 ESCs put out whatever voltage your main battery is putting out and sends it to the receiver through the red 2-wire connector, so off a fresh charge from the charger you're looking at 8V or so which is 2V higher than what the receiver was designed for. You could fry the receiver or servos. Not saying it is a guarantee, but a definite risk.

    I use one of these: http://www.teamnovak.com/products/BEC/index.html (model #5460)

    I connect the Tamiya ESC red connector to the Novak BEC (after soldering a mate to the bare leads) and connect the Novak BEC to the receiver and leave the Novak switch ON all the time and use the Tamiya ESC switch to turn things on and off. It simply reduces the pack voltage down to 6V and provides up to 3A of current which is fine for most steering servos. If you need more power, buy the 5A version.

    Works like the charm and I don't have to worry about overvolting the radio electronics.

    Im just going to get Futaba MC330CR. So I can just plug straight to my reciever. Buying a Novak BEC is starting to get to expensive.

  5. The TEU101BK has been discontinued and replaced by the TEU104BK. The specs are the same, just the 104 includes a cut-off suitable for 6.6v 2s Li-FE packs. This same cutoff is usable for Ni-Cd and Ni-MH as well.

    They are a good quality ESC for running standard motors. I've never had any problem with the 101 or the 104 ESCs. I have read of others having overheat problems with them in the new SRB radio box due to lack of circulation.

    TEU-104BK but Im using a older Futaba system that doesnt have BEC will it still work. Can anyone send me a picture of Tamiya battery connector of that esc.

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