Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

111 Excellent

About Killajb

  • Rank
  • Birthday 01/26/1974

Profile Information

  • Interests
    Tamiya Fan since.. well.. since I first saw one. So a long time ago.

Recent Profile Visitors

429 profile views
  1. I expect the nostalgia of building my childhood hero's (rc cars that I could never afford at the time), but updated to handle modern electronics/power. Kyosho has absolutely nailed it with their re-re's, from blister pack displays, top notch fit and finish of parts and performance that actually holds a candle to more modern designs. It's a shame when we purchase a Tamiya re-re only to have to seek "necessary add-ons" just to run reliably.
  2. finished the color coat on my Blackfoot (Bluefoot) and mounted a King Blackfoot roll bar. I'll take the chrome bits off and add some layers of clear spray today. Won't be ready until my transmission braces, and chrome plastic wheels arrive in the mail so I'll baby it until then.
  3. Hello All, I'm sure just about everyone has wondered at some point in time or another why Tamiya does (or doesn't) make something we think many would want. What's on your list? For example: -I'm finished up a Blackfoot re-re, and wondered aloud why Tamiya went back to the metal plate transmission as opposed to using the King Blackfoot design which already resolved the weak gearbox issue? (I've already ordered the 3-D printed trans brace solution from our fellow Tamiya Club members) -Chrome King Blackfoot wheels too much of a hassle..? Why not just use Monster Beetle Wheels without the extra step of gold paint (wheels are chrome then painted with gold translucent paint). Just a couple of quick gripes but I'm sure some of you have brilliant suggestions for our beloved model maker..
  4. Each of my 15 cars is a "Shelf Queen". All are ready-to-run, and all are as clean and as detailed as possible. I run them occasionally, but then clean them and put them all back in their respective places when finished. My philosophy was to treat each car as if it is my only one and care for it accordingly. If there isn't an interest in doing this for a particular car, it's sold off to make space for one I would care for a bit more.
  5. I made my own chassis braces from angle bracket (hardware store, around $5.00) and covered them with carbon-look tape. Edit: the raw bracket can be seen in the upper right of this photo which was also used for front body mount support as I still use the hard plastic body)
  6. I think the lack of weight in the front of the Blitzer chassis makes the steering travel more noticeable. Using the standard chassis setup the difference between on-power steering, off-power steering and steering while braking is dramatically different. Additional weight on the front solved this for me. I wonder if the chassis balance was predetermined with the thought that an extra servo and mechanical speed controller were always going to be there..
  7. ^^^This. I pick up packs of 20 0.1mm 0.2mm and 0.3mm shims to keep in my spares kit and use for most of my builds. +1 as well to what TurnipJF mentioned earlier about putting the shims between the inner bearing and the axle drive cup.
  8. Photos probably wouldn't capture my nitpicking.. but here's what I've got. I've chased all other areas of slack and reduced play down to the arms themselves. I'm thinking some hinge pins and e-clips will do the trick and will probably just measure the length and diameter of the U-shaped shaft for reference.
  9. Greetings All, I've got a question to the better minds out there for a solution to the DF-02's issue of excess play on suspension arms. The standard "U-shaped shaft" on both the front and back ends is simple for toy-grade performance but y'know we want a bit more from our models, don't we? Does anyone have a standard shaft w/e-clip part number that can be used as a direct replacement or perhaps an even better solution?
  10. I think you may consider the load on your Blitzer chassis when jumping as well. Sorting the springs rates is one thing, but I would add some reinforcement to the front of the chassis as well if you plan on jumping things and don't want to face possible damage at the weakest points. As for the springs, I added weight to the front of my Blitzer Beetle to balance out the weight distribution front-to-rear and found thicker oil (with aftermarket dampers) was best to absorb a landing. From there I adjusted the spring pre-load (amount I of spacers or distance I threaded the collars on aftermarket dampers downward) so that the rebound was proper. This is a post "borrowed" from Traxxas forums but worth a note: The best way to stiffen the suspension is with new springs, but adding spacers does firm up the ride. It doesn't change the actual spring rate, but it does increase the stiffness - springs require more and more force to compress as they are compressed further.
  11. TT-01 completed: finished cleaning up the wires and getting bake discs/track width proper.
  12. put a bit of clear tape on the back of the nut to hold it in place while you "manipulate" the plastic body to line up the screw to get the threads started. Not the easiest thing to do I'll admit.. but I found it helped for guys with over-sized hands
  13. There's just so much right about this.. simple yet seems like it was supposed to be this way. If the op doesn't mind.. I'm going to "borrow" this idea and do a shelf grasshopper with the green shiny chrome body and perhaps some fox wheels w/ Hotshot tires
  14. Best Parts: -Buying a new kit and bringing the large box home with an ear-to-ear grin thinking about the fun build ahead -Free time to build a kit on a clean desk with tools aligned, favorite background video/music/snacks all set up -Peeling off masking tape with no runs -Peeling off the over-spray film and revealing the true color and shine -Getting the right hop-up and desired result after an initial test run and seeing the obvious improvement -Looking at a fleet of models that were tweaked to my liking Worst Parts: -Realizing how much money was spent after a build is complete (oh well.. necessary evil I say) - e-clips - Out-of-stock just seeing these words in sequence makes me cringe now - stripped 1.5mm hex's - gluing tires (for me anyway) - that unseen bump in the road 50 meters away that sends a car airborne
  15. Wow! Nice flat black results. Has anyone experienced any paint scrape or peeling when painting on the outside? I'm asking because I am not too fond of the green color on this body and considered masking the windows and painting the outside flat black instead of doing another body..
  • Create New...