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Everything posted by Killajb

  1. I've been a fan of motors we use in RC since I had my first hobby grade car back in 1985. Check out the AYK GZ1200 motor from..1979!! My first "exotic" brushed motor was the Astro Turbo 05 Both brushed and brushless motors have their own idiosyncrasies. Brushed motors use more more mechanical options for tuning such as brush compound type, and shape, commutator finish and bearing choice. Brushless motors are mostly controlled by software to customize to one's liking. Either way, for me it's fun to tinker with. The sad part for fans of brushed motors, is that parts and supplies are dwindling. I changed the brass bushings to bearings in my Superstock RZ and BZ motors, and wanted to try some soft compound brushes to get a bit more performance out of them but it's hard to source any. I'mean yeah.. I could just get a cheap brushless motor and get more performance, but I like this process. Conversely, I chose specific brushless motors for my Kyosho Tomahawk and Turbo Optima. I love the pinpoint control the sensored motors give and proportional breaking makes it feel like I can skate each car along any line I choose. Either way, you can't really go wrong. Brushed or brushless.. you can explore options to maximize what you want out of them and enjoy.
  2. Thank you Matthias! Your build is very nice! Even more impressive considering this was done awhile back. Consider me a big fan of your work sir!
  3. Whoa~ Quite a lot going on in this photo.. a slipper clutch mod? plastic insert shape that follows the shape of the transmission.. threaded rod and nuts suggest a different motor mount position(perhaps larger pinion) as well. Do tell us more!
  4. I'm glad Kyosho is continuing to put out new models since the company was purchased by Shinsei Bank. Hopefully, this will be followed up with more goodies like a re-re Optima mid. This offering is a bit pricey, but I get it.. They already had the Mad Crusher platform (which seems very capable but for whatever reasons wasn't wildly popular among MT fans), and just needed a licensed body to cap it off to connect the history of the USA-1 in both monster truck reality and Kyosho product history. I'm curious to see how the this will fare against Losi's LMT.
  5. Would be my best guess to achieve the desired results.. then follow up with PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue. Just be sure to go light on the pearl as it can tend to collect in places like corners if you aren't careful and leave a bit of cloudy film.
  6. I can't stop staring at this..
  7. I can't stop staring at this..
  8. Tamiya Japan is the same, I'm afraid. There's a Tamiya Playfactory store about 20 minutes by train away from the main Hobby Shops in Akihabara here in Japan. Prices are insane there as well. It's really only a last resort for me, and even at that I only buy small parts or paint colors I simply cannot find elsewhere. Kit prices are generally 30-40 % higher than the local hobby store just 20 minutes away. It is a bit bewildering to say the least..
  9. Finished with a new coat and some shoes to look preppy on the shelf
  10. Hmm... don't see any mention of it here. Friday, April 16, 2021 Tamiya "59th Shizuoka Hobby Show Announcement New Product List" Released Tamiya has released "The 59th Shizuoka Hobby Show Announcement New Product List". ◇ 1/10 RC Land Frieder Quad Truck (TT-02FT Chassis) (Released in July) ◇ 1/10 RC TA08 PRO chassis kit (released in June) ◇ 1/10 RC Comical Hot Shot (GF-01CB Chassis) (Released in July) ◇ 1/10 RC Glass Hopper II Black Edition [RC Special Project] (Released in July) ◇ 1/10 RC Thunder Dragon (2021) [RC Special Project] (Released in September) ◇ 1/10 RC 2020 Ford GT Mk II (TT-02 chassis) (released in June) ◇ 1/10 RC 1998 Ford Escort Custom (TT-02 chassis) (released in May) ◇ 1/10 RC Top Force EVO. (2021) [RC Special Project] (Released in June) ◇ 1/10 RC Mercedes-Benz Unimog 406 (CC-02 chassis) (released in June) ◇ TA08 PRO Titanium Bisset [RC Special Project] (Released in June) ◇ OP.2004 TA08 Aluminum Servo Mount (released in June) ◇ OP.2003 TA08 Stabilizer set (F / R) (released in June) ◇ OP.2005 TA08 Carbon Damper Stay (F / R) (Released in June) ◇ SP.1667 TA08 06 Super Gear (71T) (Released in June) ◇ SP.1668 TA08 04 Super Gear (110T) (Released in June) ◇ SP.1669 TA08 D parts (suspension arm) 2 pieces (released in June) ◇ SP.1670 TA08 Front belt (132T) (released in June) ◇ SP.1671 TA08 Rear belt (101T) (released in June) Source: Tamiya
  11. Love the pics and by the looks if it, a model assembled with great care. I can appreciate Tamiya's design intent with that was available at the time by keeping the motor low and forward of the rear axle. The battery placement and esc compartment followed by front gearbox taking up the rest of the chassis space is simply brilliant use of space and weight. It's no wonder this is a great handling car.
  12. Absolute beauty!! The color really pops along with those rims.
  13. Money. Those motors are hard to find, as are their spare parts. Shelf them and save for future reference. Run silver cans/lipos in your rides and you'll have plenty of performance for those chassis. Saying that, I'd still open things up and inspect and re-lube the drivetrain and add bearings if not done already.
  14. Have a re-re Blackfoot and Monster Beetle. The Blackfoot has the "Xeostar brace" mentioned above and runs a Superstock BZ motor. Stock 10T pinion and CVAs as well and I have experienced no problems at all. On a straight wide-open its as fast as I think this chassis can manage. Also used anti-wear grease on the swing arm pivot points, seems to give smoother movement and much less signs of wear than kit supplied grease. The Monster Beetle has the MIP diff and a Brushless 21.5T sensored setup, but it's probably slower than a stock silver can but can run all day it seems on a 5000mah 2s pack. I crawl up grassy hills and foot trails with it, and again have no issues whatsoever. I used kit supplied grease on the rear swing arms here, but when it's time to do a general clean I'll replace with anti-wear grease as well.
  15. If your goals are longevity, abundance of power and low maintenance, then brushless all the way. In the long run, you will save money by not having to replace things so long as you pick a proper set-up that won't overheat. I chose to use brushed motors on my vintage RCs that were designed before brushless motors were a popular option. Even still, I try to get the most out of them by optimizing performance with bearings and then doing proper maintenance when needed.
  16. The 550 Titan motors as well as the stock silver can motors are all using metal bushings and plastic inserts where the input wires and brush holder assemblies pass through the can. All of these items get hot when operating on 2s at load (i.e. use in trucks) or for considerable time or at 3s. Aside from use in one monster truck, I'm steering away from them because I think they will just wear out over time and need replacement. Quality rebuildable brushed motors at least have proper cooling allotment for the same respective parts and bearings can be used as well to further enhance efficiency and reduce operating temps. GoolRC motors or Tamiya BZ/RZ motors seem much more adept for this task for reasonable cost, considering you won't be replacing an entire motor, just brushes/springs over time.
  17. Looks good!!! I agree with the longer roof rack as well, looks more useful if things were used as such at full-scale. I think the video lists links where those braces can be purchased when viewed on YouTube.
  18. I'd still go about bracing the chassis and balancing the weight better F/R. The chassis was originally designed to carry a mechanical speed controller, servo and heavy NiMH battery to add to weight distribution. However most opt for a faster motor, esc and 2s pack which makes for a wheelie-prone and understeer driving experience. That may be fun for some, and I don't disagree as each has their own preference. The chassis however does have a weak point during frontal impact or a hard landing where the front comes down first. @Pintopower makes a good brace or you can make your own solution if need be.
  19. Love the look you have on this ride!! I think it is screaming out for a roof rack with integrated lights. Mind you, it will add to the overall top-heavy addition of the plastic shell but it seems as though you are concerned with the scale looks a bit more than simply bashing around. The chassis can (and probably should) be reinforced where the front clip mounts to the main chassis tub. On my Blitzer Beetle, the front end seemed very light and I added weights to balance things out and made a big difference when accelerating and turning under power.
  20. Yes @Mechanic AH I bought them here in Japan, and the calipers stay in place while the wheels rotate. I thought the idea of lower rotating mass by integrating the calipers rather than including them along with the wheel drive hexes was slick, and they look authentic when the car is in motion because you can see the "rotors" more clearly when they are stationary. Can find their stuff online here: https://eagleonlineshop.com/eagleshop/shop/ShopProduct.aspx?type=Search&keyword=tt-01
  21. TT-01E with Eagle Racing suspension arm, dampers and integrated brake disc set. Also have ball diff in rear/gear diff with thick grease in front.
  22. ..and that's the thing about it all. At which point do you start to realize that by optimizing springs, com smoothness.. bearings, balancing the armature and such that you approach the whole design advantage of brushless motors! I enjoy the "feel" of a properly matched brushed motor, hearing the motor wind up to maximum rpm as the vehicle speeds away.. especially on vintage chassis designs. Sometimes with brushless motors, its more like the feel of a power drill: instantly more torque than the chassis or gears can manage and the esc has to be programmed to reduce the violence down to levels that agree with it all.
  23. Very interesting info in this thread! I'm curious about the motors listed above just for the sake of comparison.. as I had a similar dilemma awhile back. I removed all of my black can Sports Tuned motors and shelved them once I discovered that they have been discontinued. I have replaced some with silver can Sports Tuned motors (Bullhead) but for the rest, I've opted to go with faster motors. I used a Kyosho 20T black can (removing the stickers for brand continuity on my Tamiya models) which then looks just like a Sport Tuned motor without the decal on my Blitzer Beetle which has a motor guard/bumper which covers most of the motor anyway. https://rc.kyosho.com/en/70701c.html a bit quicker than a Sports Tuned but they seem out-of-stock everywhere. The rest have been replaced with SuperStock RZ or BZ motors with bearings installed in place of bushings. <<< by far the most rewarding brushed option in my opinion. I still use stock silver cans in my Agrios, but I am running them on 3s. Plenty fast however I'm sure the lifespan will eventually suffer. At which point, I have plenty of spare stock silver cans to drop in when they do give up the electric ghost.
  24. Interesting take on the Blitzer chassis my friend. I've owned both used and new Blitzers and have never had an issue with the front shock tower mount. Granted, the chassis isn't exactly bullet-proof (I reinforced the area where the front clip mates with the main chassis to reduce the chance of breakage) however I'm not totally sure it was ever supposed to be intended as a perfectly balanced track weapon. I love my re-re Blitzer Beetle for what it is. By contrast however, for close to the same price of that kit I purchased a 3Racing Cactus Pro kit https://os.3racing.hk/carkits_web.php?carkits_web_key=62. This thing is quite a bargain for what you get and is very well balanced (mid-motor configuration) for those times I want to attack a proper track somewhere. Please excuse my reply if you simply mean to grind an ax with Tamiya's strange choice of ideas on this particular chassis. I'm certainly guilty of listing my complaints with Tamiya's design direction as well when it irks me. Just thought I'd share some perspective from another Blitzer owner. Have a good one!
  25. I normally use a stock silver can 540, Hobbywing 1060 on 2s (actually, the silver can from my NovaFox) in this thing. Recently however, I picked up a Super Stock BZ motor. I replaced the brass bushings with bearings and dropped it in. I'm using the 3-D printed transmission brace along with the stock transmission gears so I felt confident enough to give it a try. Wowsers!!! Had a great run last night. Under normal (mid to 3/4) acceleration is brisk but not enough to overwhelm the chassis or drivetrain in any way. Wide open from a standstill spins both rear tires briefly before taking off on asphalt (stock Blackfoot tires on slightly narrower rims have a more conical profile and the hard rubber lends to a bit of wheelspin as opposed to pulling a wheelie). Top speed is probably what shocked me the most.. it just kept accelerating until it was at pucker-up levels of speed and I started to worry about how to slow it down. I'm amazed that a 23T motor with such a low gear (stock Blackfoot 10T pinion) could reach such high speeds. I'm impressed to say the least, but will shy away from any speed runs in this thing to keep the plastic shell from meeting the turf any time soon.
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