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About hpergm

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  1. Back in the day ('89-90?) I raced an Astute painted a metallic "cherry" red. Worked very well with this body. I dont remember what I was mixing to get to that but it was an apple-like metallic dark red with some purple in it. Sorry for the vague description.
  2. The 2 issues are unrelated in my experience. Shimming the diff has nothing to do with the shaking of the dogbones. In running mode, the trailing arms are pushed up (static and dynamic weight transfer) and all is well. I'd say run it and see. I've shimmed the diff and never looked back.
  3. Good catch - yes they are. Really spoils the grip and handling... (errr, the what?) 😃
  4. Have a look. Nothing special you cannot get in an autostore
  5. Some more pics. A very subtle weathering was also made with a Silver marker. That's all nice until the first run.. 😈
  6. Just finished my WW2. Quite pleased in how it came out. Sprayed the body with Tamiya XF paint (don't remember the code, it's olive drab) to get rid of the toyish (on a Willy..?!) plastic sheen. Then the roll cage looked plasticky/fake in comparison. Out came a car underbody rubberised rust protection rattle can. Results were great: good sticking, great texture, tough on the rolls. Just masked out the light buckets on the top to maintain their plastic gloss. Hope this trick may prove useful to the fellow Willy builders.
  7. Excellent tip, many thanks! Actually I also forgot to mention the touring car gear set I installed to get rid of the aluminum spur gear. I will look for the gear diff option there. Ran the car this morning and the "slippery whine" was there allright... Will pull wheelies with the gear diff.
  8. Some pics under normal lighting. The idea behind the paintjob was to "hide" a little bit the extreme width of the shell by fading in a dark color at the tips of the side "winglets". PS-31 Smoke was used to create the fade, then finished off with the PS-21 Silver. The custom decals are from MCI Racing, using silver in lieu of the stock green. Chassis-wise, the mods are limited to full bearings (incl. steering rack), DF03 wheels and tires, Tamiya turnbuckles for the top links, metal hexes for the wheels and the Re-re Hi Cap shocks. Aluminum knuckles are on order. Power is from an 8.5T Team Orion Brushless*. Steering by Savox (the great 1258TG). *The motor will shred the ball diffs, is there a gear diff transplant possibility?
  9. Just finished my Top Force Silver Bullet Special Edition .
  10. IMHO it is not needed. I just shimmed the diff inside the case between the ball bearings and the outdrives about 1.0mm (0.5mm each side) and the clicking was gone. I use a Sport Tuned with 2S LiPo and drive the stock spiked tires on grass (i.e. high grip)... I used this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-shim-5x7x0.5mm-nt1-10-xra338586/p13887 My 0.2c.
  11. My idea of Christmas... Merry Xmas to all us kids out there!
  12. Thanks Moffman. I took my time with the trimming indeed... The trickiest part is the slot for the front shock towers. A mix of small bent scissors, XActo and Dremel does it.
  13. A lick of silver paint (basically just a Sharpie marker) helps bring the V8 to life.. (I am tempted to glue some red ignition wires there using a single strand heavy copper wire bent to shape...)
  14. Could not bring myself to run it on dirt, though... Those white Mooncrafts are collector's items. Instead, fitted drive hexes over the pins and a set of street wheels/tyres (still looks like a mean machine!). Handling on asphalt is weird in that it will go from under to oversteer without any input during the turn - you just need to catch it in 1980's style! With the stock motor and the small pinion, top speed was about the same with my kids' Neo Fighters with a stock silvercan. Go figure...
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