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Everything posted by hpergm

  1. Back in the day ('89-90?) I raced an Astute painted a metallic "cherry" red. Worked very well with this body. I dont remember what I was mixing to get to that but it was an apple-like metallic dark red with some purple in it. Sorry for the vague description.
  2. The 2 issues are unrelated in my experience. Shimming the diff has nothing to do with the shaking of the dogbones. In running mode, the trailing arms are pushed up (static and dynamic weight transfer) and all is well. I'd say run it and see. I've shimmed the diff and never looked back.
  3. Good catch - yes they are. Really spoils the grip and handling... (errr, the what?) 😃
  4. Have a look. Nothing special you cannot get in an autostore
  5. Some more pics. A very subtle weathering was also made with a Silver marker. That's all nice until the first run.. 😈
  6. Just finished my WW2. Quite pleased in how it came out. Sprayed the body with Tamiya XF paint (don't remember the code, it's olive drab) to get rid of the toyish (on a Willy..?!) plastic sheen. Then the roll cage looked plasticky/fake in comparison. Out came a car underbody rubberised rust protection rattle can. Results were great: good sticking, great texture, tough on the rolls. Just masked out the light buckets on the top to maintain their plastic gloss. Hope this trick may prove useful to the fellow Willy builders.
  7. Excellent tip, many thanks! Actually I also forgot to mention the touring car gear set I installed to get rid of the aluminum spur gear. I will look for the gear diff option there. Ran the car this morning and the "slippery whine" was there allright... Will pull wheelies with the gear diff.
  8. Some pics under normal lighting. The idea behind the paintjob was to "hide" a little bit the extreme width of the shell by fading in a dark color at the tips of the side "winglets". PS-31 Smoke was used to create the fade, then finished off with the PS-21 Silver. The custom decals are from MCI Racing, using silver in lieu of the stock green. Chassis-wise, the mods are limited to full bearings (incl. steering rack), DF03 wheels and tires, Tamiya turnbuckles for the top links, metal hexes for the wheels and the Re-re Hi Cap shocks. Aluminum knuckles are on order. Power is from an 8.5T Team Orion Brushless*. Steering by Savox (the great 1258TG). *The motor will shred the ball diffs, is there a gear diff transplant possibility?
  9. Just finished my Top Force Silver Bullet Special Edition .
  10. IMHO it is not needed. I just shimmed the diff inside the case between the ball bearings and the outdrives about 1.0mm (0.5mm each side) and the clicking was gone. I use a Sport Tuned with 2S LiPo and drive the stock spiked tires on grass (i.e. high grip)... I used this: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-shim-5x7x0.5mm-nt1-10-xra338586/p13887 My 0.2c.
  11. My idea of Christmas... Merry Xmas to all us kids out there!
  12. Thanks Moffman. I took my time with the trimming indeed... The trickiest part is the slot for the front shock towers. A mix of small bent scissors, XActo and Dremel does it.
  13. A lick of silver paint (basically just a Sharpie marker) helps bring the V8 to life.. (I am tempted to glue some red ignition wires there using a single strand heavy copper wire bent to shape...)
  14. Could not bring myself to run it on dirt, though... Those white Mooncrafts are collector's items. Instead, fitted drive hexes over the pins and a set of street wheels/tyres (still looks like a mean machine!). Handling on asphalt is weird in that it will go from under to oversteer without any input during the turn - you just need to catch it in 1980's style! With the stock motor and the small pinion, top speed was about the same with my kids' Neo Fighters with a stock silvercan. Go figure...
  15. Always wanted one... Back in 1987 I modded my boomer with the Superhot front suspension upgrade kit (twin shocks with metal towers) and then a Bigwig body was strapped on top along with a Technigold. Best of all 3 worlds (supershot-handling, boomerang-light, bigwig looks). This time I went for an original... Here is the final (shelfer). result. Color is PS-59 - Dark Metallic Blue.
  16. hpergm


    Actually, such good bang for the buck that my 6yr old daugther also got promised one after she drove her brother's and declared ecstatic about it! Duly built and done up in Tamiya pink and pearl white.. Here's the duo then...
  17. hpergm


    Got one for my 4 year old as a Christmas present - Santa was explicitly asked for a nice racing Green. The kit is bone stock with a full bearing set (to increase duration). I actually had to think how to slow it down a bit for the little one. Basically I went for a NiMH pack and a plain 540 in lieu of the included Torque Tuned and stayed with the 17T pinion. This has limited the performance nicely to about 15-20km/hr top speed, which can be handled by a kid in an open field. Drives vey smoothly, lots of understeer (basically cannot make it spin out unless hitting the brakes mid-turn). Looks damped OK but the travel seems a bit limited for general bashing. The servo saver indeed is crap (needs constant trimming, but the kids don't seem to notice) - this would be the only mod I would do out of the box. I also took care to polish the rear damper shafts (black) with a metal polishing compound paste - the rear damper action is super smooth. A keeper! (I was initially considering a Grasshopper as an alternative, but I honestly could not fathom the reason for which both the GH and a DT02 are 20-30% more expensive than this excellent kit!)
  18. Pinto hi. Yes, the humongous torsional stress of the big balloon spike tyres on the swing arms is the root cause IMHO. My MB was grinding the diif all the time w hen running on grass with a silvercan. On slippery gravel, though, no prob. Would be great to see a solution with A-arms - although I should also say that the view of the exposed dogbones with their boots when seen from the rear is one of the things that makes this car.
  19. Now preparing to paint the body. I will go boxart red (Tamiya PS-2), but the thought of a Tomahawk tricked out with all the champagne-colored option metal parts, gold shocks and a black painted body with the gold JPS lettering scheme makes me drool... Anyone up to it?
  20. And a couple outside captivity...
  21. Just to revive the thread - mine is assembled, awaiting for the paintwork (boxart, as always). Not the most straight forward kit to build, especialy the front end; to get it set-up symmetrical one needs to pay close attention. Also the shocks are not easy to bleed right, then bind a bit. No intention to go for HGs, though - I want it bone stock. Electronics were chosen more as a color-match (as much as possible) rather than best fit; the motor is a 3930kV with 10T (the car will sideslip @ 40km/h going from 50% throttle to 100% - I need lower gearing for sure). Another problem is that the height of the ESC with the fan mounted precludes the use of the driver figure/protective cover... Oh well!
  22. Still on the parts tree - I am ashamed to say...!
  23. Grinding diff/gearbox: Solved. My MB was clicking its way to oblivion, even with the stock 540 silver can. Following the advice on this forum, I first replaced the factory CVDs with the Frog dogbones/outdrives. The idea behind that mod was that the high grip of the monster spiked tires on the lawn I was running the car were causing inwards flex to the trailing arms which were in turn causing the CVDs to push on the opposite diff outdrive, thus splitting it open. This unfortunately did not work- diff slippage and the clicking continued. Then, I just decided to insert one 0.5mm-thick shim per side between each diff bevel gear and the white ball bearing mount. The part I used was: https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-shim-5x7x0.5mm-nt1-10-xra338586/p13887 simply because my LHS is an X-ray stockist (i.e. you can do it cheaper). Worked like a charm. The clicking stopped completely and I even upgraded to a Sport Tuned motor without any problem. There is no discernible gearbox binding or resistance due to the shimming - only the diff action is now tighter. Also, no more drivetrain shake (Note: re-re Frog dogbones still on). Here's a couple of pics. Body is painted red (yes, over the stok plastic red) and "metallised" using Alclad 2 ALC-202 "Prismatic Maple - Copper Red to Green".
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